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kenoh

macrumors 604
Original poster
Jul 18, 2008
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what's this???!!!


A thread where we post up an article on how we made a particular image in detail.

Why that image, why that composition, how it was taken, how it was processed. Technical how to article...

Then just for kicks, we can try to post images using the technique of our own....
 
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kallisti

macrumors 68000
Apr 22, 2003
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Oopsie, I completely missed this thread. Didn't realize it was a contest. @kenoh asked me to write one up of my photo of the Newport Bridge. Sorry to have broken the rules so soon ;)
 

kenoh

macrumors 604
Original poster
Jul 18, 2008
6,507
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Glasgow, UK
Oopsie, I completely missed this thread. Didn't realize it was a contest. @kenoh asked me to write one up of my photo of the Newport Bridge. Sorry to have broken the rules so soon ;)


Nah the contest setup dissolved immediately... I like it more as just a technical reference par excellence thread...

Ken
 

jdechko

macrumors 601
Jul 1, 2004
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Nah the contest setup dissolved immediately... I like it more as just a technical reference par excellence thread...

Ken

Regardless, I’ve really enjoyed reading these threads. I briefly looked into ND filters last year for the eclipse but never bit the bullet. Now I have a better understanding of what they are and what they can do and I’m very intrigued.
 
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kallisti

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Apr 22, 2003
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Regardless, I’ve really enjoyed reading these threads. I briefly looked into ND filters last year for the eclipse but never bit the bullet. Now I have a better understanding of what they are and what they can do and I’m very intrigued.

Of the exposure trinity (aperture, shutter speed, ISO), aperture tends to get the most attention. The usual advice for beginners is to switch from program mode to aperture priority mode. Learn to control your exposure by manipulating aperture and thus depth of field. Next comes the "I want to blur out the background." Or "I want to be able to shoot in low light." All of this feeds into GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) where one feels one needs faster lenses to improve one's photography. Don't get me wrong, there are creative and technical reasons where a faster lens is really important. And aperture priority is often a good shooting mode (certainly better than program mode).

But shutter speed is also really, really important both creatively and technically. Longer shutter speeds are more annoying because you have to use a tripod. It's more hassle. More gear to lug around. Less spontaneous. You can't really "point-and-shoot" with long exposures (unless you are going for something really abstract). Depending on the available light, you also need to use ND filters with long exposures. Yuck, do I really want to deal with all of that? But it is the only way to create some images.

I would also offer that once you bite the bullet, get the appropriate gear (which will last a lifetime and can be used with any camera/lens), and learn good technique it becomes a very, very useful tool in your toolbox. Even if you aren't routinely using a tripod or ND filters, the experience of getting familiar with them will translate positively into almost anything you shoot.

The same could be said for biting the bullet and learning about flash photography...
 

jdechko

macrumors 601
Jul 1, 2004
4,230
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Of the exposure trinity (aperture, shutter speed, ISO), aperture tends to get the most attention. The usual advice for beginners is to switch from program mode to aperture priority mode. Learn to control your exposure by manipulating aperture and thus depth of field. Next comes the "I want to blur out the background." Or "I want to be able to shoot in low light." All of this feeds into GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) where one feels one needs faster lenses to improve one's photography. Don't get me wrong, there are creative and technical reasons where a faster lens is really important. And aperture priority is often a good shooting mode (certainly better than program mode).

But shutter speed is also really, really important both creatively and technically. Longer shutter speeds are more annoying because you have to use a tripod. It's more hassle. More gear to lug around. Less spontaneous. You can't really "point-and-shoot" with long exposures (unless you are going for something really abstract). Depending on the available light, you also need to use ND filters with long exposures. Yuck, do I really want to deal with all of that? But it is the only way to create some images.

I would also offer that once you bite the bullet, get the appropriate gear (which will last a lifetime and can be used with any camera/lens), and learn good technique it becomes a very, very useful tool in your toolbox. Even if you aren't routinely using a tripod or ND filters, the experience of getting familiar with them will translate positively into almost anything you shoot.

The same could be said for biting the bullet and learning about flash photography...

Agreed. Though it depends on your subject. My wife does portraits and events mainly, so long exposures aren’t really appropriate. But I enjoy hiking and I find myself near beautiful waterfalls a lot of the time, so long exposures would be a benefit there.

As far as lighting, we’ve got a minimal investment. We purchased a good used speedlight and a friend sold us his studio strobes for a pittance.
 

kallisti

macrumors 68000
Apr 22, 2003
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Agreed. Though it depends on your subject. My wife does portraits and events mainly, so long exposures aren’t really appropriate. But I enjoy hiking and I find myself near beautiful waterfalls a lot of the time, so long exposures would be a benefit there.

As far as lighting, we’ve got a minimal investment. We purchased a good used speedlight and a friend sold us his studio strobes for a pittance.

Sorry, I quoted you but ended up making more general comments aimed at the random forum reader.

You are obviously correct that it totally depends on the subject. The biggest issue with hiking will be whether you take a tripod or not. You will be seeing compositions with both sky and water where long exposures would add a creative option.

For moving water you can get a "milky" effect with relatively short exposures (i.e. 30 sec to 1 min). Varies quite a bit though and for some effects you may need minutes.

For clouds in the sky, you really need long exposures approaching 5 min if you want to remove form from the clouds. Shorter exposures create blur but leave some element of definition to them, depending on the wind. Ultimately it's a question of how much weight you want the sky to have in the final image and how surreal you want it to look.
 
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Mark0

macrumors 6502a
Sep 11, 2014
516
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SW Scotland
My advice for buying ND’s. Buy once, so try and get good ones. You’ll find out very quickly what the downfalls of cheaper, poorer quality filters will be - and you’ll want to upgrade, thus spending more money.

It’s worth getting good ones like Formatt Hitech Firecrests, LEE, Nisi to start with as they’ll last forever if looked after properly.

I use the LEE 100mm holder but with Firecrest solid ND’s. They have accurate stop values and the best for colour neutral filters I’ve seen and used.

For grads I use LEE.
 
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