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You must backup to something else. External hard drive, NAS, cloud service, &c. An external hard drive is the cheapest and easiest. The purpose of this backup is to protect your files on your SSD should the SSD fail.

512GB should be plenty. I generally recommend at least double the storage space you currently use. 256GB would be way too small. You'd be dangerously close to going over the recommended maximum usage of an SSD (90% full, 80% is preferable).

The Logitech Mouse should work. However, you have to install Logitechs drivers for all the buttons to work. I've found there software is not reliable. Try the Magic Mouse which comes with the iMac. It's a superb mouse. They don't include junk like other computer makers. The Trackpad is an add-on the Magic Mouse is included. It's actually quite nice too. It does take a while to get used to. Be sure with either to go into System Preferences and fiddle with the settings. Each setting also shows a little how to animation when you mouse over it. It's great for learning gestures.



I'd suggest keeping factory RAM for any computer under warranty (along with any other OEM component). Even if you replace it with larger modules. Just so that when it comes to warranty work. You can reinstall all your factory equipment and take out the upgrades before they look at it. That way there is no fuss with them denying work. They may also decide to swap the computer with replacement depending on the problem. Rather than repairing it. Having aftermarket upgrades installed when you turn the computer in would then prove a hassle.



Don't worry about that. The iMac was just updated recently. It's doubtful you'll see anything for close to a year. There isn't anything significant in Intel's roadmap next year for desktops to warrant any sort of wait.
The only thing I would disagree with you on is the Logitech drivers being needed. They aren't. There are drivers available but unless you have some very unusual and specific need to program a button, I feel you don't need the driver. I have been using Logitech mice since 2010 on my desktop Macs and have never felt the need to use their driver. YMMV of course

Everything else is spot on.
 
You must backup to something else. External hard drive, NAS, cloud service, &c. An external hard drive is the cheapest and easiest. The purpose of this backup is to protect your files on your SSD should the SSD fail.

512GB should be plenty. I generally recommend at least double the storage space you currently use. 256GB would be way too small. You'd be dangerously close to going over the recommended maximum usage of an SSD (90% full, 80% is preferable).

The Logitech Mouse should work. However, you have to install Logitechs drivers for all the buttons to work. I've found there software is not reliable. Try the Magic Mouse which comes with the iMac. It's a superb mouse. They don't include junk like other computer makers. The Trackpad is an add-on the Magic Mouse is included. It's actually quite nice too. It does take a while to get used to. Be sure with either to go into System Preferences and fiddle with the settings. Each setting also shows a little how to animation when you mouse over it. It's great for learning gestures.



I'd suggest keeping factory RAM for any computer under warranty (along with any other OEM component). Even if you replace it with larger modules. Just so that when it comes to warranty work. You can reinstall all your factory equipment and take out the upgrades before they look at it. That way there is no fuss with them denying work. They may also decide to swap the computer with replacement depending on the problem. Rather than repairing it. Having aftermarket upgrades installed when you turn the computer in would then prove a hassle.

I would like to be able to get everything ordered later today. I'm gonna order the iMac with 512gb SSD. Which brand/model of external HD do you recommend ordering and also Ram. Makes sense to keep the factory Ram. I will just leave it installed and add the extra alongside it.

I'm strongly considering the Trackpad. Seems like it has a following that likes it here.

Is the Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad something that most order or stick with the regular one?
[doublepost=1561388288][/doublepost]
The only thing I would disagree with you on is the Logitech drivers being needed. They aren't. There are drivers available but unless you have some very unusual and specific need to program a button, I feel you don't need the driver. I have been using Logitech mice since 2010 on my desktop Macs and have never felt the need to use their driver. YMMV of course

Everything else is spot on.

I programmed volume/mute on the side wheel, one of my favorite things on the mouse + the free spin wheel on top. I guess I would need the drivers??
 
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A cool (non-standard format) small box. Add APU, RAM, storage, and OS.

Something a little bit bigger would be more flexible.

Note that it supports M.2 NVMe SSDs but not M.2 SATA SSDs. The latter are cheaper but only as fast as 2.5" SATA SSDs.

 
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I realize this is an iMac forum, but you might also consider the 2018 Mini.

Just plug everything you use right now into it, and "keep on going".

Be aware that the 27" iMac has a default resolution that might be tougher on "older eyes".
You had best look at one very carefully in the store before you decide on it.

On the other hand, if you are comfortable with the displays you currently have, again, with the Mini... just use what you have.

Having said that, if you do decide on an iMac, I recommend the 27" version.
Get 8gb of RAM (it may be "all you need", and the 27" iMac has an "easy-open" door on the back to add more yourself).
I don't recommend the 1tb fusion drive version.
But the 2tb fusion might be "good enough" for you.

Most folks will suggest an SSD inside (and I would, too).
The 512gb represents the "best value" (capacity v. price).
 
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We're retired, having grown up during the Crayon Years (No Calculators, Cell-Smart Phones & Computers) makes it hard trying to select the right computer due to having no schooling (Computer) during our learning years!

Currently using an older windows computer (2008/9?).

I check this site out often but get frustrated. I don't understand most of what gets discussed here. Wife wants me to make the Decision (Scary, If ya know what Marriage does to ya, LOL!)

We use our Desktop mainly for Storing & Editing Photos, sharing them with our Children & Grandkids. Also, use it for watching TV (DISH Anywhere) and Streaming YouTube Etc, when the Wife has control of the TV (Most of the time!)...We visit Websites & Forums & Facebook type sites. Wife plays Games (Solitare Type) We do banking and listen to our music. We use two monitors, one is used for "My Radar" Weather Map 24/7.

Sorry for Rambling...We want a computer that doesn't always need to be rebooted or freezing up all the time. So, guessing an Apple has fewer problems, at least that's what we've been told.

There is so many add ons and upgrades on the Apple site for each version they offer. I/we usually give up because we're worried if we don't choose the better options we'll be unhappy or eventually, too late, realize we overpaid for something not needed to begin with!

We want the 27" Screen but after that, it gets hard to figure out the correct options/versions for our wants and needs.

Budget is around 3K...

Please, we (I) could use some direction/suggestions on what to order?
i would suggest ipad pro instead
 
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I realize this is an iMac forum, but you might also consider the 2018 Mini.
I think it would be enough, but an Intel iGPU is underpowered compared to and AMD iGPU (not talking about EMIB).

Modern Macs are also terrible when it comes to swapping components.
 
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I would like to be able to get everything ordered later today. I'm gonna order the iMac with 512gb SSD. Which brand/model of external HD do you recommend ordering and also Ram. Makes sense to keep the factory Ram. I will just leave it installed and add the extra alongside it.

I'm strongly considering the Trackpad. Seems like it has a following that likes it here.

Is the Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad something that most order or stick with the regular one?
[doublepost=1561388288][/doublepost]

I programmed volume/mute on the side wheel, one of my favorite things on the mouse + the free spin wheel on top. I guess I would need the drivers??

The trackpad is nice. If you want to try it. Do not connect your regular mouse for a month, at least. You need to give yourself time to get used to it. Otherwise, you'll likely just use the regular mouse all the time. Simply because that is what you are used to.

Seagate, HGST (Hitachi), Toshiba, LaCie and Western Digital are all fine. It doesn't really matter. You'll just want it to be at least 1TB. As a Time Machine drive should be at least double the capacity of the drive it is backing up. Perhaps get a pocket or mobile drive so it is less obtrusive.

RAM
https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/imac-(retina-5k,-27-inch,-2019)-imac-19,1/CT14560758

Logitech Drivers
https://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/mx-revolution/downloads#

The Logitech drivers may or may not have the customization options you want. The software may also be unreliable. It crashes for my Logitech MX510. There is also the Steermouse utility. Which lets you customize mouse buttons if the Logitech software doesn't work out. I haven't tried it.
http://www.plentycom.jp/en/steermouse/download.php
 
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Either iMac would do what you want it to do, the slightly more expensive highest tier model (+$300 of you buy Apple’s 16GB of RAM and go for the 512GB SSD) would last you longer (an extra 2-3 years over the 3.0GHz, easily).

Really? 2-3 years longer?
I’ve always got the top spec iMac, but was going for the base 5k with SSD this time as I don’t need the power for anything. The nagging doubt was the top tier model would last longer and I’d just about convinced myself there wouldn't be much in it.
This comment has me undecided again. Can I ask why it’ll last that much longer, when there’s not that much difference in the processor and gpu (10%ish). Thanks.
 
I would like to be able to get everything ordered later today. I'm gonna order the iMac with 512gb SSD. Which brand/model of external HD do you recommend ordering and also Ram. Makes sense to keep the factory Ram. I will just leave it installed and add the extra alongside it.

I'm strongly considering the Trackpad. Seems like it has a following that likes it here.

Is the Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad something that most order or stick with the regular one?
[doublepost=1561388288][/doublepost]

I programmed volume/mute on the side wheel, one of my favorite things on the mouse + the free spin wheel on top. I guess I would need the drivers??
The free spin wheel works but yes, you would need to get the drivers to program the volume/mute.
 
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About the keyboard. Here's how I'd make the decision:

1. if you often use the "delete to the right" key (not the "delete to the left" key), then you want the kb with numeric keypad, because then you get that key as a dedicated key. Otherwise, you have to use a key combo to get that kind of delete.

2. if you often use the cursor keys (arrow keys) then on the larger kb they are full-sized keys, which makes using them easier.

I always get the full sized kb because those two capabilities are very important to me. If they aren't to you -- then get the truncated one.
 
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Really? 2-3 years longer?
I’ve always got the top spec iMac, but was going for the base 5k with SSD this time as I don’t need the power for anything. The nagging doubt was the top tier model would last longer and I’d just about convinced myself there wouldn't be much in it.
This comment has me undecided again. Can I ask why it’ll last that much longer, when there’s not that much difference in the processor and gpu (10%ish). Thanks.

The cost difference (here in the US, at least), between the base 27” 3.0GHz Core i5 w/570X and the top 27” Core i5 3.7Ghz w/580X, each upgraded to the 512GB SSD ends up being $300 USD ($2099 versus $2399). Essentially, you pay $150 for the 3.7GHz Core i5 and $150 for the Radeon Pro 580X. Given the 700MHz uptick in CPU speeds and the fact that it is 9th Gen, that is worth the extra $150 to me. The uptick in VRAM 8GB versus 4GB and the uptick in the speed of the 580X over the 570X is worth $150 to me. If the OP gets and extra 2-3 years (I’m being really conservative here) over the base model, then he is spending an extra $100-$150 for each of those extra years, which beats having to buy another computer 2-3 years early. He will have the latest and greatest CPU and a decent GPU plus SSD speeds, which are probably a darn sight faster than the circa 2009 Windows PC he is currently using, probably a Core 2 Duo, not an i-Series.

For the OP’s use case, he should get a solid 8-10 years of productive use out of the iMac versus 5-7. I am currently using a Late 2013 iMac Core i7 3.5GHz/32GB DRAM/3TB Fusion/GTX 780M 4GB GPU and it still performs just fine for a lot of what I need it to do. This week will see if it holds up or fails the test as I have some Logic Pro X work to throw at it. If it chokes on the rather light workload I have planned, then I will have a discussion with myself about whether to upgrade or not. So, that’s a 6 year old machine that still can’t match the 3.0GHz 6-core you’re looking at buying or the 3.7GHz I recommended to the OP. The $300 uptick in the cost is still worth it in my mind, although Apple still sells much slower computers (13” MacBook Pro, 13” MacBook Air, 12” MacBook) that seem to get the job done for people.

Without belaboring the point, I fired up an old 2011 Core i5 2.3GHz Mac mini with 16GB DRAM and the original 500GB HDD in it and once macOS Sierra loads up, it is surprisingly usable for a lot of basic tasks and even a few bigger tasks. Loading apps takes too long, which is why an SSD is so important, but the general compute power was not nearly as bad as one would think. I have a Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD laying around that is going in the mini in the next 2-3 weeks and I will see then how it helps...or not.

The OP is making a major move and has a very nice budget, which I don’t want to just rifle through to spend it all, but I suspect this might be his last computer purchase (not to sound morbid), and I am taking a guess his use case is not demanding enough to really strain either system, I just think $300 is such a close differential that it’s worth the extra money for a machine that will last him at least 10 years.

I also like that it is 9th Gen, so most exploits should be patched, its an i5, so side channel attacks are lessened, microcode updates are a given, it has a decently high clock speed, the x600K versions of Intel’s CPUs are usually the workhorses of their lineup for most people and so I feel confident that he is on solid ground. FYI, my son chose the i5-8500 for his gaming PC and it works just fine for him, it’s a fine piece of kit as well.

I don’t know your use case, so I cannot tell you that the i5-8500 (3.0GHz) is better or worse than the i5-9600K (3.7GHz) for you. I just know that the extra $300 is worth it to me and I hope I have made a compelling case to the OP. Personally, if I decide to purchase a new iMac, I am going Core i5/8GB DRAM/512GB/Vega 48 GPU and adding 32GB of third party DIMMs and I’m done. I can always replace the CPU with the 9900K down the road (after AppleCare+ expires), I can go up to 128GB DRAM, I can always purchase an Apple POLARISSSD in a larger capacity and install it if I really need to have that extra internal storage or simply add a 2.5” SSD to the drive bay as 512GB should be plenty for me for a while. I live on 256GB SSDs with most everything and I only need space for movies and Dropbox, which work on an external just fine.

I have read that the i5/Vega 48 may be the combo that generates the least amount of heat, which means higher and/or longer sustained Turbo speeds. The Vega 48 is hella expensive for BTO (I can get a really nice Vega 64 or even a bargain Radeon VII for $500), but I cannot add the Vega 48 later and an eGPU eats up 1 of the 2 available Thunderbolt 3 ports, which are already going through the PCH along with the SSD and not the CPU as all x16 lanes on the CPU are used (justifiably) by the GPU.

For me, at least, this represents an actual decent value for Apple, which is a bit of an Anatoly. Yes, I can build a more powerful PC cheaper, but I just cannot stand Windows 10. My Windows chops are old and out of practice and if I commit to anything to make it bend to my will, it will be iPadOS. My goal for the past few years has been to go to an iMac (heavy lifting) and an iPad Pro (day to day productivity, mobility) and to keep a mini (old is fine) as a backup for macOS betas, Homebrew/MacPorts, legacy 32-bit apps, et al. This year seems like the one to go that route.

That being said, it doesn’t invalidate what you want to buy or why you want to buy it. If the $300 extra could instead cover the AppleCare+ and an extra 16GB of DRAM for your use-case, then go for it. Computers are all pretty fast at this point in time, you just have to decide if the extra $300 difference in cost is of value to you. This is the OP’s first Mac, so I believe it will be of value to him in the long term.

Sorry this is so long...hope it helps.
[doublepost=1561396473][/doublepost]
I would like to be able to get everything ordered later today. I'm gonna order the iMac with 512gb SSD. Which brand/model of external HD do you recommend ordering and also Ram. Makes sense to keep the factory Ram. I will just leave it installed and add the extra alongside it.

I'm strongly considering the Trackpad. Seems like it has a following that likes it here.

Is the Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad something that most order or stick with the regular one?
[doublepost=1561388288][/doublepost]

I programmed volume/mute on the side wheel, one of my favorite things on the mouse + the free spin wheel on top. I guess I would need the drivers??

If you use a spreadsheet often or do electronic banking, the numeric keypad is always worth the extra $30, IMHO.
 
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Really? 2-3 years longer?
I’ve always got the top spec iMac, but was going for the base 5k with SSD this time as I don’t need the power for anything. The nagging doubt was the top tier model would last longer and I’d just about convinced myself there wouldn't be much in it.
This comment has me undecided again. Can I ask why it’ll last that much longer, when there’s not that much difference in the processor and gpu (10%ish). Thanks.

There's only about a 15% speed difference between the two. When the i5-8500 is too slow the 9600K would be barely anymore usable. There's a bigger difference between GPU. If you were doing GPU demanding tasks you'd likely be eyeing the 580x already.

RAM can be upgraded later if needed. External Thunderbolt 3 NVMe SSD can also be added later. If you need more storage. I can't see a 3.7Ghz model having much added useful life. Perhaps a model with upgraded RAM and SSD if you don't want to have to upgrade it yourself later.

Now the i9-9900K with Vega Graphics I can see lasting another two to three years. With the extra cores, hyperthreading and greatly superior GPU. Given the cost. It wouldn't make much sense. It won't have a lower cost per year of ownership.
 
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The cost difference (here in the US, at least), between the base 27” 3.0GHz Core i5 w/570X and the top 27” Core i5 3.7Ghz w/580X, each upgraded to the 512GB SSD ends up being $300 USD ($2099 versus $2399). Essentially, you pay $150 for the 3.7GHz Core i5 and $150 for the Radeon Pro 580X. Given the 700MHz uptick in CPU speeds and the fact that it is 9th Gen, that is worth the extra $150 to me. The uptick in VRAM 8GB versus 4GB and the uptick in the speed of the 580X over the 570X is worth $150 to me. If the OP gets and extra 2-3 years (I’m being really conservative here) over the base model, then he is spending an extra $100-$150 for each of those extra years, which beats having to buy another computer 2-3 years early. He will have the latest and greatest CPU and a decent GPU plus SSD speeds, which are probably a darn sight faster than the circa 2009 Windows PC he is currently using, probably a Core 2 Duo, not an i-Series.

For the OP’s use case, he should get a solid 8-10 years of productive use out of the iMac versus 5-7. I am currently using a Late 2013 iMac Core i7 3.5GHz/32GB DRAM/3TB Fusion/GTX 780M 4GB GPU and it still performs just fine for a lot of what I need it to do. This week will see if it holds up or fails the test as I have some Logic Pro X work to throw at it. If it chokes on the rather light workload I have planned, then I will have a discussion with myself about whether to upgrade or not. So, that’s a 6 year old machine that still can’t match the 3.0GHz 6-core you’re looking at buying or the 3.7GHz I recommended to the OP. The $300 uptick in the cost is still worth it in my mind, although Apple still sells much slower computers (13” MacBook Pro, 13” MacBook Air, 12” MacBook) that seem to get the job done for people.

Without belaboring the point, I fired up an old 2011 Core i5 2.3GHz Mac mini with 16GB DRAM and the original 500GB HDD in it and once macOS Sierra loads up, it is surprisingly usable for a lot of basic tasks and even a few bigger tasks. Loading apps takes too long, which is why an SSD is so important, but the general compute power was not nearly as bad as one would think. I have a Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD laying around that is going in the mini in the next 2-3 weeks and I will see then how it helps...or not.

The OP is making a major move and has a very nice budget, which I don’t want to just rifle through to spend it all, but I suspect this might be his last computer purchase (not to sound morbid), and I am taking a guess his use case is not demanding enough to really strain either system, I just think $300 is such a close differential that it’s worth the extra money for a machine that will last him at least 10 years.

I also like that it is 9th Gen, so most exploits should be patched, its an i5, so side channel attacks are lessened, microcode updates are a given, it has a decently high clock speed, the x600K versions of Intel’s CPUs are usually the workhorses of their lineup for most people and so I feel confident that he is on solid ground. FYI, my son chose the i5-8500 for his gaming PC and it works just fine for him, it’s a fine piece of kit as well.

I don’t know your use case, so I cannot tell you that the i5-8500 (3.0GHz) is better or worse than the i5-9600K (3.7GHz) for you. I just know that the extra $300 is worth it to me and I hope I have made a compelling case to the OP. Personally, if I decide to purchase a new iMac, I am going Core i5/8GB DRAM/512GB/Vega 48 GPU and adding 32GB of third party DIMMs and I’m done. I can always replace the CPU with the 9900K down the road (after AppleCare+ expires), I can go up to 128GB DRAM, I can always purchase an Apple POLARISSSD in a larger capacity and install it if I really need to have that extra internal storage or simply add a 2.5” SSD to the drive bay as 512GB should be plenty for me for a while. I live on 256GB SSDs with most everything and I only need space for movies and Dropbox, which work on an external just fine.

I have read that the i5/Vega 48 may be the combo that generates the least amount of heat, which means higher and/or longer sustained Turbo speeds. The Vega 48 is hella expensive for BTO (I can get a really nice Vega 64 or even a bargain Radeon VII for $500), but I cannot add the Vega 48 later and an eGPU eats up 1 of the 2 available Thunderbolt 3 ports, which are already going through the PCH along with the SSD and not the CPU as all x16 lanes on the CPU are used (justifiably) by the GPU.

For me, at least, this represents an actual decent value for Apple, which is a bit of an Anatoly. Yes, I can build a more powerful PC cheaper, but I just cannot stand Windows 10. My Windows chops are old and out of practice and if I commit to anything to make it bend to my will, it will be iPadOS. My goal for the past few years has been to go to an iMac (heavy lifting) and an iPad Pro (day to day productivity, mobility) and to keep a mini (old is fine) as a backup for macOS betas, Homebrew/MacPorts, legacy 32-bit apps, et al. This year seems like the one to go that route.

That being said, it doesn’t invalidate what you want to buy or why you want to buy it. If the $300 extra could instead cover the AppleCare+ and an extra 16GB of DRAM for your use-case, then go for it. Computers are all pretty fast at this point in time, you just have to decide if the extra $300 difference in cost is of value to you. This is the OP’s first Mac, so I believe it will be of value to him in the long term.

Sorry this is so long...hope it helps.
[doublepost=1561396473][/doublepost]

If you use a spreadsheet often or do electronic banking, the numeric keypad is always worth the extra $30, IMHO.

Thanks very much for the detailed reply Z, makes a lot of sense and I appreciate it. This thread covers my deliberations and needs, plus the restrictions of getting an off the shelf model that’s on offer.

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/which-2019-27-imac-for-me.2186788/#post-27487229

Money isn’t an issue, but I’d appreciate savings to fund some new studio monitors. Thanks again.


There's only about a 15% speed difference between the two. When the i5-8500 is too slow the 9600K would be barely anymore usable. There's a bigger difference between GPU. If you were doing GPU demanding tasks you'd likely be eyeing the 580x already.

RAM can be upgraded later if needed. External Thunderbolt 3 NVMe SSD can also be added later. If you need more storage. I can't see a 3.7Ghz model having much added useful life. Perhaps a model with upgraded RAM and SSD if you don't want to have to upgrade it yourself later.

Now the i9-9900K with Vega Graphics I can see lasting another two to three years. With the extra cores, hyperthreading and greatly superior GPU. Given the cost. It wouldn't make much sense. It won't have a lower cost per year of ownership.

Thanks as well velocity, I was looking at adding 32gb of ram and an external x5 drive to the base model. I don’t think I’ve any need for the better gpu for my needs.


Apologies to the OP for hijacking his thread.
 
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If you are a veteran, Apple offers a pretty good discount.

Yes Sir, USMC 1969-1971

I Ordered before I read your post...I canceled & reordered with the vet discount.
Saved $266.43. Thank-U Very Much. Will use it towards Ram & Backup HD.

27-inch iMac with Retina 5K display
3.7GHz 6-core 9th-generation Intel Core i5 processor, Turbo Boost up to 4.6GHz
8GB 2666MHz DDR4 memory
512GB SSD storage
Radeon Pro 580X with 8GB of GDDR5 memory
Magic Mouse 2 + Magic Trackpad 2
Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad - US English
Accessory Kit

27" 3.7 iMac...$2318.00
Apple Care.....$152.00
Shipping/Tax..$173.46
Total..............$2651.46
[doublepost=1561406289][/doublepost]
About the keyboard. Here's how I'd make the decision:

1. if you often use the "delete to the right" key (not the "delete to the left" key), then you want the kb with numeric keypad, because then you get that key as a dedicated key. Otherwise, you have to use a key combo to get that kind of delete.

2. if you often use the cursor keys (arrow keys) then on the larger kb they are full-sized keys, which makes using them easier.

I always get the full sized kb because those two capabilities are very important to me. If they aren't to you -- then get the truncated one.

I ordered the Full Sized...Thank-U.
[doublepost=1561406380][/doublepost]
Sorry this is so long...hope it helps.
[doublepost=1561396473][/doublepost]

If you use a spreadsheet often or do electronic banking, the numeric keypad is always worth the extra $30, IMHO.

It was very helpful & I went Full Keyboard. Thank-U.
 
Yes Sir, USMC 1969-1971

I Ordered before I read your post...I canceled & reordered with the vet discount.
Saved $266.43. Thank-U Very Much. Will use it towards Ram & Backup HD.

27-inch iMac with Retina 5K display
3.7GHz 6-core 9th-generation Intel Core i5 processor, Turbo Boost up to 4.6GHz
8GB 2666MHz DDR4 memory
512GB SSD storage
Radeon Pro 580X with 8GB of GDDR5 memory
Magic Mouse 2 + Magic Trackpad 2
Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad - US English
Accessory Kit

27" 3.7 iMac...$2318.00
Apple Care.....$152.00
Shipping/Tax..$173.46
Total..............$2651.46
[doublepost=1561406289][/doublepost]

I ordered the Full Sized...Thank-U.
[doublepost=1561406380][/doublepost]

It was very helpful & I went Full Keyboard. Thank-U.
Congrats on the new iMac. Hope you enjoy it.
 
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A cool (non-standard format) small box. Add APU, RAM, storage, and OS.

Something a little bit bigger would be more flexible.

Note that it supports M.2 NVMe SSDs but not M.2 SATA SSDs. The latter are cheaper but only as fast as 2.5" SATA SSDs.

All accessories:

Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWS2BsaaEFg&t=226
 
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(((Now, I'm trying to figure out the Ins & Outs of this new thing after only ever having owned & used Window Computers...YIKES!!!WHAT HAVE I DONE????)))

MacOS can seem a little daunting at first, but you will quickly realize that everything is very basic. My grandfather who is 80 has had an iMac for 5 years, and has loved it after his many Dells. Plus this forum has great threads for tips and tricks to help you ease into the Apple environment.

P.S. Sorry I'm so late to the thread but I figured I could congratulate you on a perfect purchase for your needs.
 
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I would like to add the following in addition to what others have said: if you are a military veteran, retired, etc., Apple would offer you a pretty nice military discount that would bring the cost to under $2,000. I used the discount to buy Apple Care. I had a chat with someone at the Apple Store, and he set-up the sale to include a military discount, and emailed the link to me. All I had to do was to use this link to buy the iMac I wanted.

Ah! I am very late responding, and have not options to delete it :)
 
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