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IMO, there is nothing to worry about unless it drops to below 10C. You are far from there.
Okay thanks for your help I'll keep an eye on it the A CPU is prochot is pretty stable a 68 it just B was the concern. Thanks again.
 
Okay thanks for your help I'll keep an eye on it the A CPU is prochot is pretty stable a 68 it just B was the concern. Thanks again.

Those number shouldn't be too stable (as long as your computer is running), even at idle, occasionally some background process can use up quite a bit of CPU power, which cause them to warm up a bit.

I really can't see anything wrong in your setup. Simply stress them with Prime95, as long as no strange reading, your thermal paste application is good.

I don't know why you are so focus to the ProcHot reading, but for your info, this is my ProcHot reading in the last hour. Most of the time idle and some web browsing.
Screenshot 2018-11-29 at 22.13.55.png

As you can see, not that "stable".
 
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Those number shouldn't be too stable (as long as your computer is running), even at idle, occasionally some background process can use up quite a bit of CPU power, which cause them to warm up a bit.

I really can't see anything wrong in your setup. Simply stress them with Prime95, as long as no strange reading, your thermal paste application is good.

I don't know why you are so focus to the ProcHot reading, but for your info, this is my ProcHot reading in the last hour. Most of the time idle and some web browsing.
View attachment 807300
As you can see, not that "stable".

I see I was just forced on that because of what I read before and seeing the 20 degree difference between A and B had me concerned. I'm going to do the stress test in a bit

15435017024992851444415831757842.jpg
 
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For stress testing, is there any difference between a tool like Prime95 vs running Handbrake vs launching 12 `yes` commands from Terminal?
 
For stress testing, is there any difference between a tool like Prime95 vs running Handbrake vs launching 12 `yes` commands from Terminal?

The main difference is Prime95 has build in error check.

Handbrake not necessary able to stress all cores to 100% (depends on the video, encoding parameters, etc)

"Yes" command can make the CPU draw lots of power (similar to Prim95's power draw), good for testing the cooling system, but not many calculations actually involve.
[doublepost=1543528940][/doublepost]
I see I was just forced on that because of what I before and seeing the 20 degree difference between A and B had me concerned. I'm going to do the stress test in a bit

View attachment 807305

That's normal, CPU A is at the down stream, and heatsink A need to handle the northbridge cooling as well. It should always run warmer.

And there is limitation about the max temperature difference due to no guarantee the work load will be evenly distributed between CPU A and B.
 
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I know there is a thread on asking why the 2013 Mac Pro is a failure? Here's one of the reasons:
hothothot1129.png

Notice how my GPUs are idling at 69ºC/74ºC. Thanks Apple for going backwards!

Anyways Mac pro10 5.1 I think your temperatures are excellent.

I am also thinking about "how large the gap on a delidded CPU setup". May be you can tighten the heatsink a little bit more. With delidded CPU, the risk of damaging the socket should be very very low. But if you already removed the liquid metal, I think no point to try that again.

And yeah, 15C off straight away after I delid my 8700K and replace the stock Intel thermal paste by liquid metal. The effect is very noticeable.

When I tightened down the heatsinks alternated the screws until they were all to the very end. It was impossible to go tighter since I already hit the max turn of the screws.

I actually ran Prime95 all night and it's still normalized at 80ºC/70ºC with the graphite thermal pads…
 
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I started Prime 95 stress test and Cpu A ProcHot kept dropping it went to 5c, that's when I stopped it.
Cpu B went down but didn't seem that affected the other temps were okay . Doesn't seem too stable to me was going to screenshot but when it dopped so low i had to stop it

Just to add the temps drop like crazy now when I start up the Mac
 
I started Prime 95 stress test and Cpu A ProcHot kept dropping it went to 5c, that's when I stopped it.
Cpu B went down but didn't seem that affected the other temps were okay . Doesn't seem too stable to me was going to screenshot but when it dopped so low i had to stop it

Just to add the temps drop like crazy now when I start up the Mac

5C away from ProcHot is the native Apple setting. I know that looks scary, but since your thermal paste is new, and the heatsink should be quite clean. That's nothing close to danger.

However, I also don't like the CPU run that close to it's rated limit as well. In your case, you may use MacsFanControl etc to setup your own fan profile.

e.g. Booster A, and Intake, base on CPU A Diode temperature.

Min 70, max 99 should conservative enough already. (As you can see in post #17, even I set min 75, max 120, my CPU still can't reach 80C in Prime95)

Your CPU will not really warm up to 99C, that setting only means the fan start to spin up from 70C, then slowly increase the RPM until 100% at 99C. Since the fan is not really idle at 0%, but at around 20%. Therefore, if you CPU warm up to 85C (this is a safe temperature, still within limit), the fan will spin up to 60%, should be way more than enough already.

You may try this setting first, run Prime95 again, and see if you want to adjust the fan profile.
 
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5C away from ProcHot is the native Apple setting. I know that looks scary, but since your thermal paste is new, and the heatsink should be quite clean. That's nothing close to danger.

However, I also don't like the CPU run that close to it's rated limit as well. In your case, you may use MacsFanControl etc to setup your own fan profile.

e.g. Booster A, and Intake, base on CPU A Diode temperature.

Min 70, max 99 should conservative enough already. (As you can see in post #17, even I set min 75, max 120, my CPU still can't reach 80C in Prime95)

Your CPU will not really warm up to 99C, that setting only means the fan start to spin up from 70C, then slowly increase the RPM until 100% at 99C. Since the fan is not really idle at 0%, but at around 20%. Therefore, if you CPU warm up to 85C (this is a safe temperature, still within limit), the fan will spin up to 60%, should be way more than enough already.

You may try this setting first, run Prime95 again, and see if you want to adjust the fan profile.


Thanks not sure if I have done this correctly but this is what happened when I did the test the againimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to fan control for the CPUs

What fan settings rpm etc would you recommend for using Lightroom/Photoshop final cut and a bit of gaming Steam?


Thanks
 
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You may try this setting first, run Prime95 again, and see if you want to adjust the fan profile.


Thanks not sure if I have done this correctly but this is what happened when I did the test the againView attachment 807602View attachment 807603View attachment 807604

I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to fan control for the CPUs

What fan settings rpm etc would you recommend for using Lightroom/Photoshop final cut and a bit of gaming Steam?


Thanks

IMO, your fan settings are either too aggressive or base on some unrelated sensors.

e.g. you made the Exhaust running at almost full speed, but nothing really need that much.

You CPU A temperature is now very good.

And CPU B is always cooler, no need to worry about that, you can still make the Booster B base on CPU B diode, min 70, max 99, if you want to.

I suggest you leave the exhaust fan at idle. This can serve as fail safe. If anything start to overheat (e.g. north bridge), the system fan still spin up the exhaust fan. And you don't need to spin that up to cool down anything anyway.

PCIe fan leave it auto is fine. If you want the cooling more base on PCIe compartment temperature, you should make that base on PCIe ambient, but not Ambient. Min 40, max 55 should work quite well.

Also, you better perform a SMC reset, your fans' min speed looks quite wrong to me.
 
IMO, your fan settings are either too aggressive or base on some unrelated sensors.

e.g. you made the Exhaust running at almost full speed, but nothing really need that much.

You CPU A temperature is now very good.

And CPU B is always cooler, no need to worry about that, you can still make the Booster B base on CPU B diode, min 70, max 99, if you want to.

I suggest you leave the exhaust fan at idle. This can serve as fail safe. If anything start to overheat (e.g. north bridge), the system fan still spin up the exhaust fan. And you don't need to spin that up to cool down anything anyway.

PCIe fan leave it auto is fine. If you want the cooling more base on PCIe compartment temperature, you should make that base on PCIe ambient, but not Ambient. Min 40, max 55 should work quite well.

Also, you better perform a SMC reset, your fans' min speed looks quite wrong to me.

I rest the SMC these are the min temps okay now?

I'm still not particularly happy about CPU A's ProHot its unstable because when I'm using Lightroom, CS6 or Stream it goes down to about 25C it does then go back up to 41-55 then down and up. Did Geekbench3 and it went lowest was 11C

CPU B's ProHot stays at around 68-70C and is stable at that

The other temps seem fine.


Should I be concerned the I/O Hub Heatsink 65C and Hub Tdiode is at 76 C idle because on you pics yours is lower
 

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I rest the SMC these are the min temps okay now?

I'm still not particularly happy about CPU A's ProHot its unstable because when I'm using Lightroom, CS6 or Stream it goes down to about 25C it does then go back up to 41-55 then down and up. Did Geekbench3 and it went lowest was 11C

CPU B's ProHot stays at around 68-70C and is stable at that

The other temps seem fine.


Should I be concerned the I/O Hub Heatsink 65C and Hub Tdiode is at 76 C idle because on you pics yours is lower

The CPU temperature fluctuate when in use, that's normal.

If you want cooler CPU A, you can set the Booster A accordingly. e.g. Still base on CPU A diode temperature, but min 60, max 99, etc.

My cMP is the single processor model, use a different Northbridge chip, and has better cooling relatively. Run cooler than yours is normal. If you want to, you can make Intake or Exhaust fan base on IOH diode. Again, min 60, max 99 should be a safe setting to use. So that, all CPU A, CPU B, and IOH has at least one fan to take care them.
 
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The CPU temperature fluctuate when in use, that's normal.

If you want cooler CPU A, you can set the Booster A accordingly. e.g. Still base on CPU A diode temperature, but min 60, max 99, etc.

My cMP is the single processor model, use a different Northbridge chip, and has better cooling relatively. Run cooler than yours is normal. If you want to, you can make Intake or Exhaust fan base on IOH diode. Again, min 60, max 99 should be a safe setting to use. So that, all CPU A, CPU B, and IOH has at least one fan to take care them.


Thanks very much for the help. I manged to get the I/O Hub Heatsink 57C and Hub I/O Tdiode 68C temps are the same at idle. Is there a way to get them down further or are these okay temps? They just seem hot to me.
 

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Thanks very much for the help. I manged to get the I/O Hub Heatsink 57C and Hub I/O Tdiode 68C temps are the same at idle. Is there a way to get them down further or are these okay temps? They just seem hot to me.

AFAIK, anything below 70C is very OK on dual processor cMP. Of course you can further spin up the Intake / Exhaust fan (just lower the min threshold), but that's not necessary IMO.
 
AFAIK, anything below 70C is very OK on dual processor cMP. Of course you can further spin up the Intake / Exhaust fan (just lower the min threshold), but that's not necessary IMO.
Oh that's good to hear, it does go to 70 but not over anymore I will spin up those fans If it goes over

Just to add when I start the Mac Pro the rises to that temperature but I'm assuming that's normal.

Edit* I just loosened screw on heat sink and lowered min threshold and the i/o heatsink and i/o Tdiode temperatures are lower thank you so much for the help.

54C and 65C
 
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I'm just trying to work out the best Macs Fan Control settings for my setup. I'm in NZ and we have just entered fall (referred to as Autumn over here). Over summer it's been hellishly hot, with several weeks between 24 and 35˚C (that's pretty typical for in Christchurch - yep, it's a sad place at the moment after the terrorist shootings). My setup is in a small upstairs room, with window access (always kept open). I have a Goldair Evaporator cooler (you pour water into a reservoir and it's fan helps cool the room by 3˚C+) that I have on when it's over 24˚C, which directs cool air onto the front panel of the cMP. On slow fan mode, it reduces the Ambient temp by 3˚C - on fast fan speed by 5˚C+. Last year I fried one of my dual X5680 CPUs due to the heatwaves we experienced. But this year I'm doing really well with the evaporator cooler – gotta look after this old cMP.

But I'm not sure I've got the best settings with Macs Fan Control. I had always had each fan set to auto. But I experimented with setting each fan to Sensor-based value for each particular sensor with start temp 35 to 50 (e.g. Intake: based on Intake sensor value, from 35 to 50, Exhaust: based on Exhaust sensor value, from 35 to 50, etc).

I just read this post and have now set all my fans to Auto with exception of Intake, which I have set based on IOH HeatSink, 50 to 70˚. Here's what my temps all look like (it's 16˚C outside at midnight).

upload_2019-3-18_23-32-27.jpeg
upload_2019-3-18_23-32-55.jpeg

Evaporator cooler off
upload_2019-3-18_23-18-21.png

Evaporator cooler on low fan speed, results below are 2 minutes after turning on the cooler.
upload_2019-3-18_23-51-8.jpeg

Do I have optimum settings for Macs Fan Control?
 

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Silly question:

What is the black/blue temperature monitoring app several people have posted? iStat?

I just upgraded to X5675 w/Arctic MX-4 on my machine and I'd like to see how I did.

Thank you-
 
yes. iStat Menus by Bjango. Buy it direct from BJANGO website - not on App Store. People on App Store report that the 'fan controls' feature is missing.. that's NOT COOL!!
 
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I'm just trying to work out the best Macs Fan Control settings for my setup. I'm in NZ and we have just entered fall (referred to as Autumn over here). Over summer it's been hellishly hot, with several weeks between 24 and 35˚C (that's pretty typical for in Christchurch - yep, it's a sad place at the moment after the terrorist shootings). My setup is in a small upstairs room, with window access (always kept open). I have a Goldair Evaporator cooler (you pour water into a reservoir and it's fan helps cool the room by 3˚C+) that I have on when it's over 24˚C, which directs cool air onto the front panel of the cMP. On slow fan mode, it reduces the Ambient temp by 3˚C - on fast fan speed by 5˚C+. Last year I fried one of my dual X5680 CPUs due to the heatwaves we experienced. But this year I'm doing really well with the evaporator cooler – gotta look after this old cMP.

But I'm not sure I've got the best settings with Macs Fan Control. I had always had each fan set to auto. But I experimented with setting each fan to Sensor-based value for each particular sensor with start temp 35 to 50 (e.g. Intake: based on Intake sensor value, from 35 to 50, Exhaust: based on Exhaust sensor value, from 35 to 50, etc).

I just read this post and have now set all my fans to Auto with exception of Intake, which I have set based on IOH HeatSink, 50 to 70˚. Here's what my temps all look like (it's 16˚C outside at midnight).

View attachment 826925
View attachment 826927

Evaporator cooler off
View attachment 826920

Evaporator cooler on low fan speed, results below are 2 minutes after turning on the cooler.
View attachment 826930

Do I have optimum settings for Macs Fan Control?
You should use IOH Diode instead of IOH Heatsink for your MacFanControl.
H98 explained it very well below:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...e-mac-pro-5-1-dual-cpu.2173519/#post-27189204
 
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