Need Help - Nikon D60 vs D80 & Lenses ...

[eddx]

***D60 WARNING***

Please be warned with the D60 it only has 3 focus points, and on paper, seems like not a big deal, not many people take full advantage of focus points. Trust me when you do start to your photography improves greatly. Two friends of mine purchased the D40x and both ended up selling and upgrading to a D80 because of the 7 point focus system, it makes a big difference honestly.

Lens wise, I am a big fan of the 18-200mm VR lens and the quality lose isn't anything I have ever noticed, I have seem time and time again fellow photographers changing from their 18-55mm to the 55-200mm to photograph something a bit far away, soon as they do this and put the camera to their faces, what they wanted to photograph is gone, and I already have the picture in my camera because I don't need to change my lens to zoom in close - that to me is quality lose on more expensive but less focal ranged zooms.

So go for the Nikon D80 and I will be interested to read which lens you end up buying. By the way, all the photos on my photo blog / website (link below) were taken with the D80 so that might give you an idea on the range / quality the camera produces.

 

[ChrisA]

On the verge of buying the D80. I do have concerns about the weight of the camera and lens in my backpack in the wilderness. My primary use would be landscape photos. I have always wanted to get a Tilt/[shift] lens for this reason, but owning Nikon lens, I have resisted converting to Canon and the Nikor lens is too long. So I have been considering getting the Zork Multi-focal system and putting on the D80.

Does anyone have any experience with this combo?
Lens suggestions for this setup?

Thank you very much!!
Don:

Have you considered a wooden 4x5 field camera? Seriously. If you are hiking with a back pack film might be the best ticket. Scan it when you get home. With 4x5 you can make some decent size prints. The D80 is limited to about 14 inches.

I don't know "Zork" but by "multi-focal" do you mean some kind of graduated diopter? If so why not just fix the image in Photoshop? Take several shots each with a slightly different focus setting then blend them in PS CS3. It is like HDR or a Panorama, a composite that blends the forground of one shot with the background of another.

With a wide enough lens set at the hyperfocal distance I just can't see why the entire DX size frame would not be sharp. DX size camera have large DOF.

 

[Edie]

very similar dilemma

I can't believe I am in exactly the same position - D60 v D80 - so everyone's replies have been v helpful. Does the situation change if I am intending to shoot only close-up food? I've shot for cookboooks before but only on film so am starting again from scratch.Art directors tell me the more megapixels the better ( therefore D40 at 6 is out of the question), and that 10 is minimum - but I also want to start at a basic level to get my technical skills (low) up first. Have some good lens left over from film slr.
Any advice out there?
Also has anyone attended the Nikon training courses in Richmond and recommends them?

many thanks.

 

[compuwar]

On the verge of buying the D80. I do have concerns about the weight of the camera and lens in my backpack in the wilderness. My primary use would be landscape photos. I have always wanted to get a Tilt/[shift] lens for this reason, but owning Nikon lens, I have resisted converting to Canon and the Nikor lens is too long. So I have been considering getting the Zork Multi-focal system and putting on the D80.

Does anyone have any experience with this combo?
Lens suggestions for this setup?

Thank you very much!!
Don:

T/S lenses on a small-format camera are more useful for architecture than for landscapes, because (a) you really don't get that much movement and (b) you only get movement on the lens not the sensor plane. If you want the same effect as Scheimpflug on a small format camera, use focus stacking and perspective correction in PP. Calmumet sells bellows systems for small-format cameras, but they're expensive and you're really not going to get big movements.

I own three view cameras and they're all gathering dust, I think these days it's easier to do panos with a high-res digital camera. By the time you deal with the chemicals to develop the film, the enlargers for anything over 4x5, paper or Ilfochrome material, and all the time involved the PP time looks pretty good. If you're scanning, you can skip the printing and enlarger parts, but seriously getting a print worthy of even a 4x5 negative or positive is going to be expensive if you're not doing it in the darkroom.

On the other hand, if you get an old 8x10 field camera, don't mess with too toxic a developer (Unfortunately PMK is my favorite, but I'd probably try Pyrocat HD if I had to shoot B&W film today) and just do contact prints, that might not be too bad.

Edit:

With a wide enough lens set at the hyperfocal distance I just can't see why the entire DX size frame would not be sharp. DX size camera have large DOF.

If you're looking for Scheimpflug, you don't want *everything* in focus, just some foreground elements and a background element, such as rocks at a lake shore and mountains in the background, or mountain laurel in the foreground and the peak in the background. Scheimpflug basically gives you a wedge of focus, which is quite different from everything perpendicular to the film/sensor plane being in focus and allows you to draw the viewer's eyes in different ways.

I can't believe I am in exactly the same position - D60 v D80 - so everyone's replies have been v helpful. Does the situation change if I am intending to shoot only close-up food? I've shot for cookboooks before but only on film so am starting again from scratch.Art directors tell me the more megapixels the better ( therefore D40 at 6 is out of the question), and that 10 is minimum - but I also want to start at a basic level to get my technical skills (low) up first. Have some good lens left over from film slr.
Any advice out there?
Also has anyone attended the Nikon training courses in Richmond and recommends them?

many thanks.

Shooting static subjects under artificial light in a controlled environment, there aren't any advantages to more focus points or in-body focus motors. Worst-case you can shoot tethered and check everything on a reasonably large screen- this also gives your food stylist a chance to see how things are progressing.

Any of the Nikon dSLR cameras will tether in Aperture 2.0 under Tiger or Leopard.

 

[ChrisA]

Hello All! First off, sorry this is so long! Ok, so I'm looking to buy my first DSLR and some lenses for it.

I just read your list of lenses. Every one of them is f/5.6 Is this what you want?

I don't know what you will be shooting in HI. I have a trip planned to HI also but I'll only be taking my underwater camera. What to bring depends on intended subjects.

What I'd do is just buy one lens. Shoot 1,000 or so images then later figure out what shots you missed and buy the lens that would have gotten those missed shots. I'd bet you that a 200mm f/5.6 would not have enabled you to take more then a handfull of addtional good shots the 18-70mm will cover 90% of you need. The 18-70mm has a non-rotating filter ring in HI outdoors you might be using a polerising filer all the time. the non-rotating ring makes it easier. I tand to use my 50mm f/1.4 a lot also.

 

[jag0009]

On the verge of buying the D80. I do have concerns about the weight of the camera and lens in my backpack in the wilderness. My primary use would be landscape photos. I have always wanted to get a Tilt/[shift] lens for this reason, but owning Nikon lens, I have resisted converting to Canon and the Nikor lens is too long. So I have been considering getting the Zork Multi-focal system and putting on the D80.

Does anyone have any experience with this combo?
Lens suggestions for this setup?

Thank you very much!!
Don:

Nikon just introduced new (2?) tilt/shift lens recently right?

 

[camexp]

d80

The nikon d80 is a great camera, I strongly recommend it. The weight isnt bad, and it has a great grip. As for the lenses, the 18-200mm VR is one of the best. Another great option for a large range would be a 18-70mm with 70-300mm or 18-55 and 55-200. If you aren't into a zoom lens, the 50mm is a good choice.

 

[Corduroy94]

So I finally decided on the D80 but I had the same concerns that you did. I’ve got small girly hands and I got used to the size and weight in a week. Now I don’t notice it at all. I've been shooting with it for over a month now and I'm so glad I picked the D80 over the D60. I still like the D60 a lot and a friend has it and it's perfect for her uses.

Unfortunately I tend to shoot a lot in the non-auto modes like M, A & S. While it seemed like something minor - having the ISO button on the back of the camera (as opposed to going into the menu to change the D60's settings) is so convenient I can't even begin to tell you. I really thought it wasn't going to be a big deal because after all, how hard is it to go into the menu and make a change? But when you're on the go those few seconds really make the difference between getting the shot and missing it - whether it's a sporting event of just that look on your kids face If you tend to shoot in an auto mode though you’re all set regardless of which camera.

I could go on about having the two wheels (shutter speed & aperture) vs. the one wheel and the LCD screen on the top of the camera which reminds of your current settings and the focus fields/motor .... but it's ALL those little features that make using the camera so much easier IF you tend to shoot in more than just the auto modes.

Also, I did end up with the 18-200mm VR lens for a number of reasons. First when you look at the construction compared to the 18-55 kit lenses (not the 18-135 - great lens made well!) you'll notice it's almost all plastic. The 18-200 is really well made and like any lens has it's short comings but it also has many advantages. I have noticed that there is some vignetting but this has only occurred when I have the sun shade on and am shooting at either extreme 18/200. If and when it does appear I found it easy to correct in Photoshop.

As for the "barrel slip" I think it was called, that many people have mentioned ... I haven't noticed it yet. This could be because my lens is still pretty new and it may happen with age. Fortunately I rarely shoot straight up or down so it's not a huge issue - just one I'll have to work around if it occurs later on.

Aside from that it's a great lens and the pictures as sharp as could be. Plus, just like with the camera when I've wanted to get that shot I have a big range to play with and I've seen other photographers miss the shot because they have to fumble to change the lens. Is it always going to happen - no but sometimes it can and for me personally it was something I just didn't want to deal with on vacation.

I already own the 28-80mm and the 70-300mm from my Nikon N80 and the 1st is GREAT, the 2nd ehh. Plus, I'm already taking the 18-200mm VR, 50mm 1.4 and the 105mm Macro to Hawaii so adding even one more lens was just gonna way my bag down. Maybe in the future if the need arises I'll invest in some larger glass! Maybe ... who am I kidding!

 

[camexp]

Yeah, nice choice. It's nice to have a all in one lens. The d80 with the 18-200mm lens is one of the best combos in dslrs. Have fun with it!

 

[EgbertAttrick]

Don't get hung up on just a flash.

If weight is a problem for you, look at Olympus.

That is the worst advice I have ever heard!

Olympus uses the 4/3 sensor, so you may as well use any old point & shoot, not to mention that Olympus has metering problems, giving you extremely underexposed photos 100% of the time.

Olympus DSLRs are, hands down, among the worst I have ever used.