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Night/extreme lowlight Photography (C & C and hints?)
- Thread starter flosseR
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yeah, used the wrong words there reallyhow is this picture Crisp and perfect? it looks like High ISO + Large Aperture...
If you want crisp and "perfect" pictures at night :
1. !!!tripod!!! 2. Low ISO (less noise) 3.Small Aperture(F 8-11 for more sharpness ) 4. Long exposure .. 20s or more(depends on how much light is available ) 5. Remote shutter Release so you don't accidentally move the camera while you press the shutter. (shoot in M mode obvioulsy)
Should do it
i just meant so clear and smooth and nice looking, haha. thankyou though, notes taken ahh, lots of pp is it?agreed.. this is just post processed like crazy.. i am guessing diffuse glow etc.? Unless the effect was created by fogging up the lens
//f
Actually these images were shot with a 5D MK2 and an oldschool 17mm Tokina Prime lens. Except the star trails which was with a Nikon d90 and a Sigma 17-70mm
I have a sturdy tripod and a radio remote release (Hähnel).
However since I couldnt get my head around the Canon I traded it in and my new gear is arriving sometime next week.. back to Nikon. I guess it is true what they say, once you are used to one system its really hard to switch to something else.
But I dont use anything fancy really.It has to be said that the Tokina lens was frozen solid when i collected the camera after I was done with the tree line shot. however 15 minutes later inside it was fine again. I guess thats what -20C does to a pure metal lens
Nice sky!
I would have tried a smaller aperture, f11 or even less, in order to have the wall, the window and the light less bright and less distracting. Also, blending two different photos, one for the sky and one for the lower part of the photo, is an option, although I've never tried it..
Cheers. I have a feeling that I was shooting at about f9-11 and I did try one stop either side however this was the best shot!
I think I should have done a bit of an HDR job to get everything exposed nicely. For anyone interested the shutter was open for 30secs.
the exif data seems to say f/5.6 which to me looks like it's too much for these kinds of shots
Here is the EXIF for this shot: 18mm, 30 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 100
Hyperfocal distance in this case is (according to the online calculator) 3 meters. I don't know why the wall on the far left seems more in focus than everything else.
One neat trick and inexpensive if youwant to do more lowlight photography, is to get a ND4 or so filter. Not a grad but a full ND. This reduces the light by 2 or more stops depending on the filter you buy. Which allows you to open your shutter longer
a good rule of thumb I go by is to get the shutter a long as possible by dialing all the other things up for high detail and quality. So the lowest ISO, the lowest aperture (before diffraction), and if you need/want, even an ND filter.
As mentioned, a sturdy tripod is essential and a cable/radio release highly recommended.
Other than that its all good fun so its all about experimenting.
a good rule of thumb I go by is to get the shutter a long as possible by dialing all the other things up for high detail and quality. So the lowest ISO, the lowest aperture (before diffraction), and if you need/want, even an ND filter.
As mentioned, a sturdy tripod is essential and a cable/radio release highly recommended.
Other than that its all good fun so its all about experimenting.
One neat trick and inexpensive if youwant to do more lowlight photography, is to get a ND4 or so filter. Not a grad but a full ND. This reduces the light by 2 or more stops depending on the filter you buy. Which allows you to open your shutter longer
a good rule of thumb I go by is to get the shutter a long as possible by dialing all the other things up for high detail and quality. So the lowest ISO, the lowest aperture (before diffraction), and if you need/want, even an ND filter.
As mentioned, a sturdy tripod is essential and a cable/radio release highly recommended.
Other than that its all good fun so its all about experimenting.
i thought about putting a ND filter on the lens too. but i figured it would only work for day time.will this filter do any good??
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sunpak+...861427&skuId=7973197&st=filter lens&cp=1&lp=9
and a remote will actually help? like i don't have a tripod yet, but will be getting one. a remote would help? the camera still moves a bit when you press the shutter??
thanks! great pics by the way.
reduk300:
excellent subjects to shoot lowlight..
now, tripod and F11 or so, ISO to the lowest you have and in Aperture Priority shoot. Should be several seconds (best guess about 15?)
You will get amazingly clean images of both subjects with no noise (if you shoot ISO 100 or even lower??).
But a tripod is essential here... Also try delayed exposure. so you push the shutter and it fires a second later to avoid camera shake.
Very good subjects both though...
excellent subjects to shoot lowlight..
now, tripod and F11 or so, ISO to the lowest you have and in Aperture Priority shoot. Should be several seconds (best guess about 15?
)You will get amazingly clean images of both subjects with no noise (if you shoot ISO 100 or even lower??).
But a tripod is essential here... Also try delayed exposure. so you push the shutter and it fires a second later to avoid camera shake.
Very good subjects both though...
to FlosseR
Thanks for the input. I was driving home the other night from bowling and I passed both these places and figured these would be great shots to try for my first night shots. Especially since they are only 10-15 minutes away and I can shoot, see what I don't like and then go back and try different settings and see the difference.
I did use a tripod, but we also had 15-20mph wind gusts last night, so I tried to use a high ISO, for quicker exposure, F11,and used my delay button of 10 secs. I knew I would get some noise, but not that much.
I was worried about a long exposure with too much camera shake due to the wind. I am going to back in the next few nights as the wind is supposed to be less of an issue and hopefully be able to go to the lowest ISO with longer Exposure.
.
Thanks for the input. I was driving home the other night from bowling and I passed both these places and figured these would be great shots to try for my first night shots. Especially since they are only 10-15 minutes away and I can shoot, see what I don't like and then go back and try different settings and see the difference.
I did use a tripod, but we also had 15-20mph wind gusts last night, so I tried to use a high ISO, for quicker exposure, F11,and used my delay button of 10 secs. I knew I would get some noise, but not that much.
I was worried about a long exposure with too much camera shake due to the wind. I am going to back in the next few nights as the wind is supposed to be less of an issue and hopefully be able to go to the lowest ISO with longer Exposure.
.
Was this a compact camera or a dSLR? I like the shots in terms of composition (especially the second one), but I was a bit surprised when you said you used a tripod given the relative lack of sharpness - even accounting for the wind.
As an alternative to using high iso - and since you're going to go back and experiment anyway - try dropping the aperture down a stop or two and focusing hyperfocally (assuming the distances work). Every full stop doubles the amount of light you're collecting. So if, for example, you shot at f/8 you could cut the ISO in half (or cut the exposure time in half).
You could also try weighting your tripod somewhat.
i was out shooting some night shots last night, it was my first time shooting out at night in city streets. i don't know if i should put the F/3.5 or sometimes at F/11...i want everything in the picture to be sharp, but just cause its in F/3.5, that doesn't mean things won't be as a sharp will it?
i was in manual mode all night, didn't have a tripod though, sooo i couldn't make the shutter speed as long as i'd have too, but actually there seemed to be soo much light around me that everything was almost overexposed anything over 3 seconds..soo any tips comments on these pictures here please!!!!!
and do to do the trailing lights effect, especially in the this bright city, i'd have to turn the aperture really high, and that's how i'm going to be able to make the shutter speed longer correct?
would it be best if i left my camera in AV mode? so i can just change my aperture myself and trusting the camera would make good judgement for the shutter speed? thanks!!!
i was in manual mode all night, didn't have a tripod though, sooo i couldn't make the shutter speed as long as i'd have too, but actually there seemed to be soo much light around me that everything was almost overexposed anything over 3 seconds..soo any tips comments on these pictures here please!!!!!
and do to do the trailing lights effect, especially in the this bright city, i'd have to turn the aperture really high, and that's how i'm going to be able to make the shutter speed longer correct?
would it be best if i left my camera in AV mode? so i can just change my aperture myself and trusting the camera would make good judgement for the shutter speed? thanks!!!
Wow.. those shots have excellent potential.
tip (purely to try if you want to),
dial the aperture to f11 and ISO to the lowest you can do and leave in AV mode.
Then find a stone pilar or a pole to lean and steady the cam against. I use trashcans as well and push the cam down to hold it firmly in place. then release the shutter and hold it absolutely still until it clicks
then watch your results...
Oh and if you can, focus manually first (hyperfocal if possible but I think Infinity would be a good start. Those belaccio pics with he water fountains open for 15 secs should make amazing pictures.
Enjoy
//f
tip (purely to try if you want to),
dial the aperture to f11 and ISO to the lowest you can do and leave in AV mode.
Then find a stone pilar or a pole to lean and steady the cam against. I use trashcans as well and push the cam down to hold it firmly in place. then release the shutter and hold it absolutely still until it clicks
then watch your results...
Oh and if you can, focus manually first (hyperfocal if possible but I think Infinity would be a good start. Those belaccio pics with he water fountains open for 15 secs should make amazing pictures.
Enjoy
//f
Wow.. those shots have excellent potential.
tip (purely to try if you want to),
dial the aperture to f11 and ISO to the lowest you can do and leave in AV mode.
Then find a stone pilar or a pole to lean and steady the cam against. I use trashcans as well and push the cam down to hold it firmly in place. then release the shutter and hold it absolutely still until it clicks
then watch your results...
Oh and if you can, focus manually first (hyperfocal if possible but I think Infinity would be a good start. Those belaccio pics with he water fountains open for 15 secs should make amazing pictures.
Enjoy
//f
haha, thanks. i usually leave the iso on AUTO, but i'll start trying to put it at 100.
now i'm curious to try the 15sec shutter speed at bellagio, cause the water dances, and moves all over the place...soo i'm wondering how that's going to look..hahaa.
Oh yes, very much Much nicer.
Now adjust the photo to make the sky dark or shoot in pitch black night and you have a winner
Well done.
//f
Much nicer.Now adjust the photo to make the sky dark or shoot in pitch black night and you have a winner
Well done.
//f
Then find a stone pilar or a pole to lean and steady the cam against. I use trashcans as well and push the cam down to hold it firmly in place. then release the shutter and hold it absolutely still until it clicks
Of course, if there are no transhcans available, I sometimes make do with a tripod...
Cahill Center for Astronomy and Astrophysics at Caltech @ Night
You guys all have really beautiful shots there. I really need to get out more and experiment with this. My only time doing a night shot like this was a few months back. Luckily, I recently had Caltech purchase a couple of these photos from me (I actually licensed the use of it to them.) I guess they realized that they didn't have their own photos of their new Astronomy/Astrophysics building and needed one for a project, and they found mine online so...
They probably could have been better shot; I normally shoot with a nice 50mm prime, but I needed a wide angle to get this building and all I had was the kit lens that came with the Canon 30D (hence the lens flares on the first photo; though they kind of look like planets which fits well with the subject matter.)
This thread has definitely inspired me to get out more and experiment.
You guys all have really beautiful shots there. I really need to get out more and experiment with this. My only time doing a night shot like this was a few months back. Luckily, I recently had Caltech purchase a couple of these photos from me (I actually licensed the use of it to them.) I guess they realized that they didn't have their own photos of their new Astronomy/Astrophysics building and needed one for a project, and they found mine online so...
They probably could have been better shot; I normally shoot with a nice 50mm prime, but I needed a wide angle to get this building and all I had was the kit lens that came with the Canon 30D (hence the lens flares on the first photo; though they kind of look like planets which fits well with the subject matter.)
This thread has definitely inspired me to get out more and experiment.
agreed.. this is just post processed like crazy.. i am guessing diffuse glow etc.? Unless the effect was created by fogging up the lens
//f
Bingo. But it wasn't diffuse glow. Actually, I don't even know what it was. I was really bored one night and started playing with this photo. It's a black Audi A6 parked in front of my next door's house. It doesn't mean anything, except for Audi fans. The car looks so menacingly unassuming under that street light.
I just couldn't stop staring at it for some reason.
how is this picture Crisp and perfect? it looks like High ISO + Large Aperture...
If you want crisp and "perfect" pictures at night :
1. !!!tripod!!! 2. Low ISO (less noise) 3.Small Aperture(F 8-11 for more sharpness ) 4. Long exposure .. 20s or more(depends on how much light is available ) 5. Remote shutter Release so you don't accidentally move the camera while you press the shutter. (shoot in M mode obvioulsy)
Should do it
sooo the more light there is the less shutter time you have to leave it open correct? the less light, the longer you have to leave it open, and that's both being at like an F/8 to F/11 or something.
trial and error i take it! can't wait for my tripod!!!!!
It's pretty logical... Make your finger and thumb into a circle; this is the aperture of your camera. To let more light through this hole, you can either make it bigger or increase the amount of time it's 'open'. Less light: smaller hole or less time open. It's juggling these two variables that allows you to get everything in focus, from a few feet to infinity (f11, say), or just a tiny part of the pic in focus (say f1.8).
With a tripod you have total control over how your pic will look. You don't have to fret that your lens isn't fast enough, etc. Actually the only thing that isn't logical is the fact that big apertures have small numbers, and small apertures big numbers. It's a hangover from film-based photography...
I 'guesstimate' the exposure (something that would have been rather expensive in the days of film...), and make adjustments from there, based on what I see on the back of the camera. Keeping everything 'manual' means you get a 'feel' for light (quality and quantity). If you let the camera make all the decisions, you don't get this extra control or 'feel'...