Heh... That only goes so far. The new stuff has to be better.As long as photographers have Gear Aquisition Syndrome, the market will stay steady
Perhaps but examples of the iPhone's ability are quite shockingHow would you take a photo like this with your iPhone camera?
Long exposures are possible on an iPhone using Live Photos - see https://ios.gadgethacks.com/how-to/take-long-exposure-photos-your-iphone-ios-11-0177938/How would you take a photo like this with your iPhone camera?
Pretty simple snap shot for most real cameras to take.
Possible, but isn't the aperture fixed? Makes for an unbalanced exposure triangle IMO! But not a problem for all those instergramer youngens!Long exposures are possible on an iPhone using Live Photos - see https://ios.gadgethacks.com/how-to/take-long-exposure-photos-your-iphone-ios-11-0177938/
& https://iphonephotographyschool.com/live-photos-long-exposure/
Obviously IQ will not be up to DSLR standards, but still it is possible
Cheers
Hugh
You're right of course, but I was just being cheeky in suggesting using these things for long exposure.Possible, but isn't the aperture fixed? Makes for an unbalanced exposure triangle IMO! But not a problem for all those instergramer youngens!
Unlikely in Kent! I hear you have the worst of the weather! Hardly an inch here.You're right of course, but I was just being cheeky in suggesting using these things for long exposure.
I will have a go myself when I find some running (not frozen) waters to shoot, but not expecting stellar quality.
Cheers
Hugh
Yeah, about 4-5 inches so far, but what really counts is no waterfalls anywhere near. I need a camper van trip to the TrossachsUnlikely in Kent! I hear you have the worst of the weather! Hardly an inch here.
Get yourself a custom transit instead!Yeah, about 4-5 inches so far, but what really counts is no waterfalls anywhere near. I need a camper van trip to the Trossachs
Cheers
Hugh
I think my image was around a 12 second exposure, which is more than Live PHotos will do.Long exposures are possible on an iPhone using Live Photos - see https://ios.gadgethacks.com/how-to/take-long-exposure-photos-your-iphone-ios-11-0177938/
& https://iphonephotographyschool.com/live-photos-long-exposure/
Obviously IQ will not be up to DSLR standards, but still it is possible
Cheers
Hugh
Indeed! I was lumping the two together as they both serve the same space/clientele in the market.Note the change in what kind of ILC. Mirrorless is growing at the expense of DSLRs.
Indeed! I was lumping the two together as they both serve the same space/clientele in the market.
edit -- I see you are a micro four thirds man! That portability must be quite nice.
And here is a small-scale studio photography test that I did two years ago using a D1700 and an iPhone with a RAW photo app.Perhaps but examples of the iPhone's ability are quite shocking
https://iphonephotographyschool.com/nature-images/
There are apps for the iPhone to allow you to shoot RAW with full control over settings. The difference in image quality from the resulting RAW files is pretty startling compared to the default JPEG compression in Apple's Photos app.How would you take a photo like this with your iPhone camera?
Pretty simple snap shot for most real cameras to take.
Indeed! They have really found their little corner of the market and are doing well IMO.It means I an not afraid of seeing Panasonic or Olympus pulling out or selling off. That is quite nice.
Heh... That only goes so far. The new stuff has to be better.
Bought a new $900 50mm lens recently that was supposed to be the sharpest available. But then I compared it to my old (and much smaller) $300 Nikkor 50mm 1.4D lens from 13 years ago. Identical performance on the D750, but the older glass was clearly sharper when paired with the higher resolution sensor of the D850.
Back to the shop it went...
Your SD card looks wrong!For my purposes, phone cameras are lacking in 3 key areas:
1. Ultra wide angle
2. Extreme macro(the type I do on a heavy tripod with bellows and other odds and ends)
3. Ability to sync with external lighting
4. Movements as from a view camera.
Of the above, #3 might be addressed, but I don't see 1 and 2 being done satisfactorily. When can I get a cell phone with the FOV(and IQ) equivalent of my much loved Nikon 14-24 2.8? Pair that with my D800 and I have a heavenly combination.
#4 can be mitigated somewhat in Photoshop, but not completely-you can correct the distortion that you would normally avoid by using rise/fall and shift on a view camera but it's hard to to mimic the Scheimpflug effects you can get from tilts and swings. In theory, you can focus stack but you need a secure mount for the camera(phone) to keep the framing consistent. If you don't want to go all the way with a view camera, at least a tilt shift lens(Canon) or PC lens(Nikon) will give ALMOST as much as I can get with my Speed Graphic.
BTW, those of you who complain about weight are sissies . I regularly use(although not at the same time generally) a Nikon F2AS or other F/F2 bodies, a Nikon F4, Nikon F5, Hasselblad 500C, Mamiya RB67, and a couple of different 4x5 cameras. Obviously, I don't wear the 4x5s around my neck(although I did once photograph a basketball game with my Speed Graphic-it's doable if you zone focus, are generous with composition, and ideally have a Grafmatic back). The amount of time I can tolerate the Mamiya is limited, but I could carry one of the others and a couple of lenses all day. My D800 with the 24-85 3.5-4.5 VR I keep as a walk-around lens is weighs less than my F2AS body(I refuse to buy a 24-70 2.8 because the older version doesn't have VR and the current version is an E aperture lens-I'm not spending that much on a full frame lens I can't use with film).
BTW, I'm still trying to figure out how to put one of these in my iPhone. They fit in my 500C easily.
View attachment 752728
To do HDR you need multiple exposures typically 3 or more of the same scene. The HDR software then combines these. The HDR feature on the iPhone is nothing close to using multiple exposures and layering them.the above photo you could do with an iPhone, or any camera for that matter - and then run the image through an HDR program. The first photo has haloing. Obviously you cannot simulate a wide angle lens, so an iPhone cannot get the same image as the bottom image.
Your SD card looks wrong!