Andy, like I said before, but maybe you missed it, take a look at strobist.blogspot.com
There's a ton of good lighting info on there. It consists of small flash lighting.
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Portrait Photography Advice
- Thread starter AndyClarke
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Andy, like I said before, but maybe you missed it, take a look at strobist.blogspot.com
There's a ton of good lighting info on there. It consists of small flash lighting.
Chasing kids around requires a longer lens. They don't like the 50mms being shoved up their noses. Studio settings different, but you still have to stay back a little.
Why not get a good mid-zoom that utilizes vibration control? Some would say they aren't as sharp, others say you can't tell the difference.
I do know that filling the frame is the cheapest way to maximise pixels and a zoom does that.
In a studio you need all sorts of complex lighting stuff, but outside with your stabilized lens you won't need any flash, or maybe just a little fill. Nothing too hard and modern cameras deal with that very well, automatically.
Why not get a good mid-zoom that utilizes vibration control? Some would say they aren't as sharp, others say you can't tell the difference.
I do know that filling the frame is the cheapest way to maximise pixels and a zoom does that.
In a studio you need all sorts of complex lighting stuff, but outside with your stabilized lens you won't need any flash, or maybe just a little fill. Nothing too hard and modern cameras deal with that very well, automatically.
A 50mm lens on the OP's camera is equivalent to an 80mm on a full-frame camera. There's no "up their noses" with it.
But there's no doubt that IS/OS/VC has nothing to do with freezing moving objects.
For kid portraiture, you must have stopping action and USM/HSM focusing - they move constantly. Image stabilizing lenses have no advantage over non-stabilized lenses in this regard. You must have (1) a fast shutter speed (i.e., lots of ambient light, large aperture, or higher ISO) or (2) flash lighting. There's no other way around it.