How much are air-cooled models? I dont have much to work with right now, and if the brown things are just resistors I heard you can put a small bit of solder over them to get the job done.Anytime, pal.
Should you be concerned? Probably.
At this point, I would just salvage what you can, ditch it, and buy an air cooled model. One of the dual core revisions, specifically. Much less problems.
I bet the most the seller knew was it didn't and he didn't want it. Anyways, I do have a big job doing this but if it goes over- say- 30 bucks I'll just cut my losses. I think the hardest part would likely be the main board, seeing as its connected in so many nonstandard ways- atleast compared to every other computer that I have ever worked on. I do have an extended, uh, whatever its called, so it should be good enough to get to all the little screws. I'm still puzzled on how to flush and redo the liquid in the CPU cooler, but I do have distilled water somewhere, which makes thing easier. The rust doesn't bother me so much as the corrosion does, and yes WD-40 exists in America. Buying any other G5's would be out of my league, seeing how long it took to lug the monster down a level of stairs and into my room.Without a doubt, the seller knew all about this.. that's why it was a dollar!
You've got a bit of a big job to clean it all up. Take your time and pull EVERYTHING apart, especially the Power Supply Unit, open it up, carefully blow out all of the loose dust with a compressor (or canned air) and clean all the components with cotton tips and a couple of old toothbrushes. Be sure to leave the PSU unplugged for a couple of hours before opening it up though, you don't want a zap from any residual power.
Pull the main board out and clean in behind as well. It can take a few hours to get into the G5 on your first attempt. It's not like working on a PC (or a G4). You'll need the right tools. I went full McGyver on this and fashioned a long-handled hex-key from whatever I could find in my toolboxes (imagine a straightened out smaller L-shaped Hex-key, joined with cable-ties to another larger hex key for leverage). This is required to remove the CPUs and heatsinks on the air-cooled units. I'm not sure if you can use a shorter tool on the LCS.
For cleaning components, I've always used Isopropyl Alcohol (99%). I don't know about mixing this with the leaked coolant though, maybe someone with a chemistry background could chime in on this. You don't want to turn your logic board into soup.
On the corroded panels and screws, you could possibly rub the rust back a bit with some fine wet and dry sandpaper then use a water dispersing product to protect it from any further corrosive ingress (I'd use WD-40 here in Australia, not sure if it exists in other countries). If you wanted to go the extra mile, coat the areas in a rust converting paint, or just find replacement parts from another cheap (non-rusted) G5.
Honestly, I'm thinking of straight up taking out everything, and doing an old fashioned refurb and "pirating" a leopard disk to use alongside the 160 gig I stuck inside the thing. This is my 1st experience even owning an Apple computer, so I'm still stuck at dead ends by general confusion. This computer might've been used at a harsh place, too, seeing how much dust was caked inside and how the outside of it was covered in dried liquid, dirt, and other stuff I still don't know what it is. I'm just gonna see if redoing the cooler and swapping processors will do it, after cleaning the power supply so it doesn't just explode when it has to provide power to a properly (hopefully) functioning processor.
EDIT: ha, 2nd page