not easy, even possible to do...
http://aquamac.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hack1&action=display&thread=1032
http://aquamac.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hack1&action=display&thread=1032
While the cards will work with those systems, the installation is different. There is enough room in the '06 and '07 chassis (and a very tight squeeze in the '08) that makes the steps I outlined unnecessary.
Not sure how you figure the default PSU has enough power on tap. Each of the Radeons draw 350w at use and have a 500w ceiling requirement. There is not enough juice available. And yes, I have and a few others have also tried this.
Stick with the plans I offered here.
[*]If you are using two Apple LED monitors like I am (dual 27" Apple LEDs), connect your primary LED monitor to the right Mini DisplayPort connector on the primary graphics card (bottom) and your secondary LED monitor to the left Mini DisplayPort connector on the secondary graphics card (top).
Two questions:
1- Do you need to buy one or two crossfire bridges?
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[/COLOR]can anyone confirm to have blown up his mac pro by not having the extra psu?
I have read you don't need an eps. There are a couple video that don't have one and they say everything runs ok. You just need the splitter.
Already tried this, and it was not the best : I guarantee you are affraid of burning your PSU while doing this ...
And imagine : 2 570, when there shouldnt be enough power for 1 (the DirectCU uses 2*6pins + 1*8pins).
in the process of installing this now..waiting for second 5870.
so far i can tell you his psu is no longer available and the only other one on new egg is the fsb. if you choose that psu then the 4pin molex to sata adapter is too long to fit in chassis.
tbc...
I would recommend using a 2nd PSU to power up the 5770 (and newer when/if you decide on another upgrade) so you don't draw too much current over the PCB traces that supply the GPU power connectors on the logic board (or too much current from the +12V rails those connectors are attached to).Hi, I have a 5870 in my MP and I want to add a 5770. I have an optical drive and an SSD filling both optical drive slots.
Because I only want to add a 5770 and not a 5870, would I need another power supply? If so, how would I set that up if I cannot put the power supply inside the case?
If I do not need an extra power supply, what cables will I need to power the 5770?
I would recommend using a 2nd PSU to power up the 5770 (and newer when/if you decide on another upgrade) so you don't draw too much current over the PCB traces that supply the GPU power connectors on the logic board (or too much current from the +12V rails those connectors are attached to).
BTW, I do recall at least one MR member that did this (used splitter cables), and it melted the HAL and shorted (Hot Air Leveling solder on the PCB traces). End result = new logic board.
As per what you can do, there's two possibilities to run a 2nd PSU for the graphics card:
- Remove the SSD and place it elsewhere in the system or externally (not that difficult to relocate internally with a little creativity - think Zip Ties or Velcro to mount it for example). Internal would be the best way to go, as I assume the SSD is your boot disk. Then use a 5.25" Graphics Card PSU (example) in the 5.25" bay the SSD currently occupies. This is nice and clean too BTW vs. the other alternative.
- Use a standard computer PSU externally, and jump the green and black wires together to power it up. Run the 6 pin PSIG cables through the bottom of the side panel or through an open PCI bracket. Not pretty, but it works. May be a bit cheaper too.
No special cables needed with either solution (just use one of the 6+2 pin connectors as a 6 pin connector on the 5770).
Hope this helps, and good luck.![]()
I would recommend using a 2nd PSU to power up the 5770 (and newer when/if you decide on another upgrade) so you don't draw too much current over the PCB traces that supply the GPU power connectors on the logic board (or too much current from the +12V rails those connectors are attached to).
BTW, I do recall at least one MR member that did this (used splitter cables), and it melted the HAL and shorted (Hot Air Leveling solder on the PCB traces). End result = new logic board.
As per what you can do, there's two possibilities to run a 2nd PSU for the graphics card:
- Remove the SSD and place it elsewhere in the system or externally (not that difficult to relocate internally with a little creativity - think Zip Ties or Velcro to mount it for example). Internal would be the best way to go, as I assume the SSD is your boot disk. Then use a 5.25" Graphics Card PSU (example) in the 5.25" bay the SSD currently occupies. This is nice and clean too BTW vs. the other alternative.
How would this PSU sync with the build in PSU? If you have 2x double-width cards and Raid card, how hard it is to cleanly route the AC cord outside the MP? Many thanks!
Yes you could do that, but at that point, it's not any different than using a standard PSU (still visible externally, though the 5.25" is smaller and might look a bit better). Depending on the deals you can find, you may be able to find a standard PSU you'd be able to live with for less money.Would I be able to have the 5.25" power supply sitting on top of the MP and have the cables go into the MP via an empty PCIe slot? Would this require some extension 6 pin power cables?
They use a 4 pin Molex connector to turn it on (fires it up with the rest of the system when the Power switch is pressed).How would this PSU sync with the build in PSU? If you have 2x double-width cards and Raid card, how hard it is to cleanly route the AC cord outside the MP? Many thanks!
Yes you could do that, but at that point, it's not any different than using a standard PSU (still visible externally, though the 5.25" is smaller and might look a bit better). Depending on the deals you can find, you may be able to find a standard PSU you'd be able to live with for less money.
If you decide to run the 5.25" externally, you'll need a Molex extension cable (pass it and any other cables through an open PCI bracket that doesn't have a card installed), as that's what is used to turn the unit on (rather than jump the green and black wires in the main board connector on a standard computer PSU). 6 pin PSIG extensions may also be needed, as I'm not sure how long the factory cables are.
They use a 4 pin Molex connector to turn it on (fires it up with the rest of the system when the Power switch is pressed).
Take a look at this unit, and examine the photos (particularly the rear; there's 3 connectors - one is the AC power, the output GPU cable assembly, and the 4 pin Molex that turns it on).
BTW, I didn't link this one before, due to:
- More expensive.
- X on the front lights up (figured most might find that annoying, and though it's supposed to allow users to change the color, I don't see any switches for this, let alone one to turn it off = I took the cautious approach).
From a performance issue, No. You'll need to take a can of compressed air to it from time to time in order to blow out the fan and heat sinks, but that's it (will get dirty over time, particularly sitting out in the open like that). On the plus side however, it will run cool so long as the vents and/or fans aren't covered up.Would there be any downside to have a PSU on top of the MP?
It depends on the machine (actual connector providing the power in the MP, as some models have Molex <2006 - 2008>, and others SATA <2009 on>).What would the extended molex cable plug into?
In terms of getting power to a Molex connector as a means of powering up the PSU, this is only for the 5.25" graphics card units.Would I need to do this sort of thing for a standard PSU or only for the 5.25" PSU?
Yes, this is what you'd need to extend the 6 pin PSIG connector it it's too short.As a PCIe 6 pin extender, would this extension cable work?
As long as you don't cover up the vents, No (needs those unobstructed for good airflow).Could there be any potential over heating problems with an external PSU laying on top of the MP or flat on carpet?
450W should be plenty, particularly as there won't be any other devices attached (additional loads). It should also make it easier to find a decent unit that you won't have to pay an arm + leg.And what wattage would you suggest for either a 5.25" or normal PSU?
Should be fine. Not the cleanest semi-modular I've seen, but the price is certainly attractive if you've no problem with it having an LED fan and whatever cabling mess will exist.And for an external normal PSU, how would this one do? It is partially modular so I wouldn't have so many cables laying out and its only $40. And to turn it on, would I need any special cables or just flip the switch on the back?
It depends on the MP used (kept it general until now, as it's just a slight variation on the cables, such as using a SATA to Molex adapter + Molex extension if necessary).1. A simple molex to sata power adapter allows this unit to be used in newer Mac Pros. $5, problem solved.
Upset had nothing to do with it (more information involved to determine the recommended unit, but decided on a KISS approach).2. The light up "X" that has you so upset IS the switch. Push it and color changes. Push it again, the color changes again.
It depends on the machine (actual connector providing the power in the MP, as some models have Molex <2006 - 2008>, and others SATA <2009 on>).
- If the optical bay's use a Molex connector, then you just need a Molex Extension cable.
- If it's a SATA backplane (single wide cable that carries both power + data), then it could be a bit more involved, particularly if that's the data connection for the SSD. But it's possible (backplane extension cable between the MP and SSD, and tie into the power cables with a Molex extension via wire nuts, crimp connectors, or solder + heatshrink tubing - just match up the colors and locations).
- If you're not using the SATA connection in the empty optical bay (just need power), and it's a 2009 or newer, all you need is a SATA to Molex adapter + Molex extension cable connected together.
A standard PSU would require you to connect the green and black wires in the main board connector together (turns the rest of the PSU's rails ON).
No, it's not too many extension cables connected.In order to turn on a 5.25" PSU, could I use that extension cable you mentioned, plus a SATA splitter (to split for SSD and PSU), plus a SATA extension cable (data from extension cable to SSD), and a SATA to molex cable? Would all of that work or be too many conversions and extensions?
Jumping the green and black wires is what triggers the PSU.How would that specifically be done? Would the PSU turn on every time I turn the computer on? If not, would it be bad to just keep the PSU on at all times?
No, it's not too many extension cables connected.
All you need for cables are the following (5.25" run externally):
What to do:
- Backplane Extension Cable (completely takes care of the SSD, as it has both data + power)
- Molex Extension Cable (you'll need to measure the distance to make sure you don't order one too short; they sell them in 12, 18, 24, and 36" lengths)
It's a quick and easy project (soldering would take the longest, but it's the most compact and cleanest way to go IMO).
- Cut the correct Molex end off (or remove the pins from the plastic connector body, and snip off the crimped ends - gives you a couple of extra millimeters of wire if you need it).
- Splice the wires with the same color wire on the Backplane Extension Cable's power wires (you can use wire nuts, crimp connectors, or solder + heatshrink tubing).
Once you get the two cables assembled together, you just made a custom wire harness that provides:
And the best part is, it won't void the warranty (presume you have Extended Apple Care).
- Ability turn the 5.25" PSU on when you startup the MP (via the Molex connector)
- Provide both data and power signals to the SSD (via the Backplane connector).
All in all, this is the better way to go IMO, as it will be much neater than a standard computer PSU (smaller helps, but mainly due to less wire hanging out side the system).
Sometimes we get so caught up in thinking one way, that we aren't thinking at all.
1. A simple molex to sata power adapter allows this unit to be used in newer Mac Pros. $5, problem solved.
2. The light up "X" that has you so upset IS the switch. Push it and color changes. Push it again, the color changes again. Cycle through the colors and there is even a choice that results in no light at all. You were wearing the Ruby Slippers the whole time, just had to click your heels.