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Here is mine.
Only one page :)
Thinking about to put the media control between the brightness and volume sliders.
If Philips will add 3rd party buttons to its app I would create a second side with the hue light controls.
 

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Here’s mine. I did something that I’m surprised I don’t see people do more often, and I put the most commonly used controls on the bottom right where they’re easier to reach. I use back tap to bring up control center. I left the rest of the pages as default.

IMG_0037.png
 
I kind of thought that control centre would become linked to focus modes. For instance, if I have a focus mode I only use at home, I no longer need the Shazam control. Am I missing something obvious or are you only supposed to have one set of control centre pages?
 
IMG_6529.png
I think I prefer just launching the app from control centre and then interacting with the app via its main interface. I never fully gelled with shortcuts tbh. So even if I can use a shortcut to add a task to my task manager (sorted), I’d rather wait for Sorted to update to support a ‘new task’ control.
 
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Here’s mine. I did something that I’m surprised I don’t see people do more often, and I put the most commonly used controls on the bottom right where they’re easier to reach. I use back tap to bring up control center. I left the rest of the pages as default.

View attachment 2428418
How did you get the WiFi/Wireless icon out of the Connectivity box? I do not see it anywhere in the CC.
 
I had to reduce it back to one page. The muscle memory of swiping up anywhere to dismiss is too strong.
I had to do the same. Apparently my swipe down is too strong so when I went to control center it would fly past the first two pages and open in the 3rd page.
 
Interesting, doesn’t your tv support that happening automatically? If I turn on my PS5, or Apple TV, the tv automatically switches to the appropriate hdmi
I dont run the hdmi switching from the tv but through the receiver. I have it setup for a second zone running a full system off that also so hdmi issues happen sometimes if my main tv gets involved. I do sometimes run the main room on a different hdmi for vrr but usually everything is on the main arc hdmi to the receiver so i can use all those devices in my other room too.
 
I dont run the hdmi switching from the tv but through the receiver. I have it setup for a second zone running a full system off that also so hdmi issues happen sometimes if my main tv gets involved. I do sometimes run the main room on a different hdmi for vrr but usually everything is on the main arc hdmi to the receiver so i can use all those devices in my other room too.
I'm going to nod and pretend I understand what this means
 
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I'm going to nod and pretend I understand what this means
Cutting out all the first-zone second-zone stuff, for many people using an AVR the choices are to either (a) connect everything to the TV and then just the TV to the AVR/amplifier or (b) connect everything to the AVR and then just that to the TV.

Basically, one decides which device (TV or AVR) controls all the switching.

There are advantages/disadvantages to either setup. The AVR will be awesome at decoding all sorts of sound formats but unless you have the latest and greatest, may not be the best to pass your 8K high-refresh Dolby Vision picture to your telly.

The TV will know what to do with the image (to the best of its capabilities, anyway) but may not be able to pass through that great uncompressed Atmos/DTS "3D" surround sound to the AVR.

Usually, the only people who care about this stuff are those who game regularly, or who have more than around 9 speakers. Those people are becoming greater in number. I'm not one of them (I connect everything to the AVR and stop thinking about it!).
 
Cutting out all the first-zone second-zone stuff, for many people using an AVR the choices are to either (a) connect everything to the TV and then just the TV to the AVR/amplifier or (b) connect everything to the AVR and then just that to the TV.

Basically, one decides which device (TV or AVR) controls all the switching.

There are advantages/disadvantages to either setup. The AVR will be awesome at decoding all sorts of sound formats but unless you have the latest and greatest, may not be the best to pass your 8K high-refresh Dolby Vision picture to your telly.

The TV will know what to do with the image (to the best of its capabilities, anyway) but may not be able to pass through that great uncompressed Atmos/DTS "3D" surround sound to the AVR.

Usually, the only people who care about this stuff are those who game regularly, or who have more than around 9 speakers. Those people are becoming greater in number. I'm not one of them (I connect everything to the AVR and stop thinking about it!).
A very succinct and top breakdown and translation 👍
 
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Cutting out all the first-zone second-zone stuff, for many people using an AVR the choices are to either (a) connect everything to the TV and then just the TV to the AVR/amplifier or (b) connect everything to the AVR and then just that to the TV.

Basically, one decides which device (TV or AVR) controls all the switching.

There are advantages/disadvantages to either setup. The AVR will be awesome at decoding all sorts of sound formats but unless you have the latest and greatest, may not be the best to pass your 8K high-refresh Dolby Vision picture to your telly.

The TV will know what to do with the image (to the best of its capabilities, anyway) but may not be able to pass through that great uncompressed Atmos/DTS "3D" surround sound to the AVR.

Usually, the only people who care about this stuff are those who game regularly, or who have more than around 9 speakers. Those people are becoming greater in number. I'm not one of them (I connect everything to the AVR and stop thinking about it!).
Thanks! I just plug it all into the TV (although my new Samsung is a real dud with HDMI splitter/switch and wants to always search and set up the TiVo box when it goes back to that input)
 
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