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So wait is the Canon 5D mark II really this good?
- Thread starter blockburner28
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And even then it's the photographer that makes (that's creates, not takes) the photo's. </smartass mode>
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Before I chose the 7D alot of people told me to go with the mark II. At the time I didn't have enough money etc, but we did major OT @ work and they money came up and I realized that I wanted to get a 30mm so I could get a little wider, but then I seen that the price for that would be the price to upgrade to the 5dII (since I had the 12% off $300 dollar coupon @ bestbuy) I wouldn't never shoot sports and I would only be doing portraits so it worked out for me.Wait? Are you implying that you're getting the 5DII, after just buying the 7D? You realize your photo's won't improve overnight, don't you? If you just want to look more impressive, better get the Zeiss 1700 mm as well.
For now I will only have the 50mm until something changes. The 28-135 isn't nothing to miss anywayOP, what glass have you got, the difference between glass makes far more difference than that between bodies. Seems nuts to be changing from a 7d so soon
lol yeah sooner or later, but for now the 50mm will be glued to the camera
As a previous owner of a d5 mark 2. I have to say even that 50mm will be pushed to deliver on the 5d mk2 but its better than the other lens
Get a cheap 70-200 f4 L USM...
/f
Get a cheap 70-200 f4 L USM...
/f
As a previous owner of a d5 mark 2. I have to say even that 50mm will be pushed to deliver on the 5d mk2 but its better than the other lens
Get a cheap 70-200 f4 L USM...
/f
That might be my next lens. I wanted that or the 24-105 L. To bad bestbuy didn't sell the lens kits with it
Good stuff.
A bit too much flash for my liking. I'd dial the flash compensation down another stop. I'd probably increase ISO to 4 or 800 too, as your shutter speed is getting a bit slow on the last image at 1/60th. Also, I know you shot on manual - but the exposure looks a little over in general - his suit needs to be darker.
I also think they're a tad soft. I think you need to experiment more with post-processing, increasing sharpness or clarity.
A bit too much flash for my liking. I'd dial the flash compensation down another stop. I'd probably increase ISO to 4 or 800 too, as your shutter speed is getting a bit slow on the last image at 1/60th. Also, I know you shot on manual - but the exposure looks a little over in general - his suit needs to be darker.
I also think they're a tad soft. I think you need to experiment more with post-processing, increasing sharpness or clarity.
thanks for the information firestarter. I need to take some classes on pp asap and also flash. Does the iso affect the quality of the pictures and what is a avg shutter speed I should try to get 100/1 or 200/1 thanks in advance
Higher ISOs do degrade the picture, but you can easily use 400 or 800 without that happening. Blur due to camera shake is a worse risk - so it's not worth reducing ISO if you end up with too low a shutter speed.
The guide is that shutter speed should be faster than 1/the focal length of your lens. So if you're using a 50mm, the shutter should be faster than 1/50. For critical sharpness I try to never shoot less than double that - so 1/100th minimum on a 50mm lens. You're getting down to 1/60th for these pictures.
Experiment with your lenses. The Canon 50mm lenses aren't at their very best wide open. Your 50 f1.8 is OK in the very center at f1.8 - but closer to the edges it gets pretty soft.
First, nice shots, overall. I'll offer some comments, if you don't mind...
I believe edge softness is overplayed wide open at f/1.8, or even for f/2.8 lenses because you get subject isolation from background (reduced depth of field) and usually the edges of the picture aren't the focal point of interest anyway, so sometimes a little edge softness actually helps wide open.
On your pics, they do look a little overexposed, and the background gets distracting. You could open up the lens all the way and see what difference that makes in blurring the background, but distance to subject will also affect this. Try to get closer for some head/shoulder portraits with that 50mm. By getting closer focusing to your subject the effect of blurring the background will be greater, and you won't have to open up the lens so much. Try f/4-ish, focus on the eyes and look for some side lighting. If you use any straight-on flash, make it very reduced power, just for slight fill in shadows and maybe a highlight in the eyes. Ideally you'd take the flash off the camera and meter for the background, then strobe him from an angle (slightly high and right or left, to sort of simulate the sun.) Try various strobe settings to see what makes it work.
Another thing you can do is to stop the lens way down to make everything in focus (mainly sky, background silhouettes, etc) and do a test shot to get the background ambient exposure where you want it for dramatic effect. Getting a bit lower and using the sky and exposing to get the clouds looking good, which would probably make the subject underexposed, then light him from an angle. This way you get shadows on him for great texture, and the dramatic background. Again, test the flash for what would be right...
Or, just get really nice natural light with some direction to it, and position your subject at an angle. Always avoid the direct, in your face light. It flattens everything out and tends to look snapshot like.
I believe edge softness is overplayed wide open at f/1.8, or even for f/2.8 lenses because you get subject isolation from background (reduced depth of field) and usually the edges of the picture aren't the focal point of interest anyway, so sometimes a little edge softness actually helps wide open.
On your pics, they do look a little overexposed, and the background gets distracting. You could open up the lens all the way and see what difference that makes in blurring the background, but distance to subject will also affect this. Try to get closer for some head/shoulder portraits with that 50mm. By getting closer focusing to your subject the effect of blurring the background will be greater, and you won't have to open up the lens so much. Try f/4-ish, focus on the eyes and look for some side lighting. If you use any straight-on flash, make it very reduced power, just for slight fill in shadows and maybe a highlight in the eyes. Ideally you'd take the flash off the camera and meter for the background, then strobe him from an angle (slightly high and right or left, to sort of simulate the sun.) Try various strobe settings to see what makes it work.
Another thing you can do is to stop the lens way down to make everything in focus (mainly sky, background silhouettes, etc) and do a test shot to get the background ambient exposure where you want it for dramatic effect. Getting a bit lower and using the sky and exposing to get the clouds looking good, which would probably make the subject underexposed, then light him from an angle. This way you get shadows on him for great texture, and the dramatic background. Again, test the flash for what would be right...
Or, just get really nice natural light with some direction to it, and position your subject at an angle. Always avoid the direct, in your face light. It flattens everything out and tends to look snapshot like.
thanks for all the info! You really went out your way to explain in depth to me. All of the information you gave me will come really handy for my upcoming photoshoots btw my yongnuo rf-602's should be here in 2 to 3 weeksFirst, nice shots, overall. I'll offer some comments, if you don't mind...
I believe edge softness is overplayed wide open at f/1.8, or even for f/2.8 lenses because you get subject isolation from background (reduced depth of field) and usually the edges of the picture aren't the focal point of interest anyway, so sometimes a little edge softness actually helps wide open.
On your pics, they do look a little overexposed, and the background gets distracting. You could open up the lens all the way and see what difference that makes in blurring the background, but distance to subject will also affect this. Try to get closer for some head/shoulder portraits with that 50mm. By getting closer focusing to your subject the effect of blurring the background will be greater, and you won't have to open up the lens so much. Try f/4-ish, focus on the eyes and look for some side lighting. If you use any straight-on flash, make it very reduced power, just for slight fill in shadows and maybe a highlight in the eyes. Ideally you'd take the flash off the camera and meter for the background, then strobe him from an angle (slightly high and right or left, to sort of simulate the sun.) Try various strobe settings to see what makes it work.
Another thing you can do is to stop the lens way down to make everything in focus (mainly sky, background silhouettes, etc) and do a test shot to get the background ambient exposure where you want it for dramatic effect. Getting a bit lower and using the sky and exposing to get the clouds looking good, which would probably make the subject underexposed, then light him from an angle. This way you get shadows on him for great texture, and the dramatic background. Again, test the flash for what would be right...
Or, just get really nice natural light with some direction to it, and position your subject at an angle. Always avoid the direct, in your face light. It flattens everything out and tends to look snapshot like.