Filters off works great for standard DVD too.
Sure, until you have a source that needs them.
Filters off works great for standard DVD too.
Yeah, especially Canyonblue, thanks so much this thread rocks.
I'm having trouble though (as I posted in another thread) with Mac the Ripper and Handbrake.
I'm trying to rip my DVD's to the HD first with MTR, then queue them up in Handbrake and let them convert over night. But After Mac the Ripper is done, there's like 5 files to choose from, and each one is around 1GB each, so it's different parts of the movie broken up. How do I either a) rip the entire feature as one file or b) join the multiple files to one so as to convert them into one .m4v file?
Edit: I think I've figured it out. When I selected the source in Handbrake, I just clicked the folder that all the ripped files were in and it looks like it might be joining them. I'll have to wait and see if it's successful.
I'm having trouble though with a couple of movies, one being Batman Begins. It makes Handbrake crash every time.
Could you expound on what 'nightly build' is? I just started delving into this since I just ordered and ATV2, so it's all relatively new to me. Thanks![]()
Hi
I'm using the High Profile preset as suggested in this thread with the RF set to 19 and the latest nightly build (downloaded earlier today) - the only difference is I'm in PAL land rather than NTSC so I'm leaving the frame rate set to 'same as source'.
When doing an rip/encode the estimated time for example on a 2hr 10min film on DVD is approx 5hrs 27mins.
Tried other DVDs with equally long encode times - the frames per second counter seems to fluctuate between around 8 to 14 frames. Leaving the Mac alone or using other programs on it at the same time does not seem to make any great difference to the frames per second counter or estimated completion time.
Is this something I've set up incorrectly, a simple fact of life that I just have to get used to or because I'm using an Intel Mac Book Pro circa 2006 (Core Duo not core 2 duo) and the hardware simply isn't upto doing it any faster than this?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards
Mark
I haven't used Handbrake in a long time but I'd swear it used to be quicker than this.
Hey guys, I have a bit of an off-topic but still on topic kind of question.
Once you rip all of your movies, where do you get your artwork from? I've been grabbing images of the DVDs here and there from the net, but they are usualy in a rectangular shape (From the DVD), whereas the new Apple TV wants them to be in a square (600 x 600 pixels). I crop a little and sometimes stretch or smash the image. Not only is it time consuming, but the results can be less then desirable. Does anyone know if there is a site dedicated to this sort of thing?
Hey guys, I have a bit of an off-topic but still on topic kind of question.
Once you rip all of your movies, where do you get your artwork from? I've been grabbing images of the DVDs here and there from the net, but they are usualy in a rectangular shape (From the DVD), whereas the new Apple TV wants them to be in a square (600 x 600 pixels). I crop a little and sometimes stretch or smash the image. Not only is it time consuming, but the results can be less then desirable. Does anyone know if there is a site dedicated to this sort of thing?
For A4 CPU devices (iPhone/iPad/AppleTV2) the following is OUTSTANDING:
1. High Profile [Best setting in Handbrake, but doesn't work on iPhone 3G or the old Apple TV]
2. RF of 19 for DVD, 20-22 for Bluray. [Smaller numbers are HIGHER quality, but lower than 18 gets no real increase in the quality you can see but will quickly exceed the original size of the DVD or Bluray, don't do it! These values create great transfers with reasonable, in some cases outstandingly small sizes, I use 20 for Bluray as I don't mind using a bit more space, but 21-22 are good too, try it.]
3. Framerate NTSC 29.97 and check the "Peak Framerate Box" [This tells Handbrake to use the NATIVE frame rate of the source unless it exceeds 29.97 in which case it would limit it to 29.97 which makes sure you stay compatible.]
4. Check the "Large File" box. [This helps with compatibility if your file exceeds 4GB, in most cases it won't.]
5. Add second audio track under Audio tab for Passthrough or DTS conversion if you are using the Apple TV connected to a surround system. [Important if you ever intend to use the file with a surround system, otherwise omit this.]
6. Under picture tab select "Anamorphic" and "Strict" for DVD, or "Anamorphic NONE" and set the width to 1280 for Bluray with the keep ratio box checked. [Experts now feels Strict is better than Loose Anamorphic for DVD (that's a change from the past) and there is no Anamorphic for Blurays so turn it off. 1280 for Blurays makes your files 720p for size and compatibility, ATV2 will convert 1080p files but there are hiccups that make it not worth try to push beyond the stated spec.]
7. Add detelcine, decomb filters for DVD, *NO* filters for Bluray. [DVDs can use a bit of help from the filters, which only kick in if they feel they are needed, while Bluray sources are so clean you actually hurt the image and slow encoding if you leave them on.]
Really incredible, small but beautiful files from this much better than the current presets.
Hi CanyonBlue. I can't seem to get these settings going on the current nightly build on the official site. For example, there is no 'Picture' tab. and the b-frames only go up to 16.
Is there a way for you to just send me your preset as a file I can just load on my Handbrake?
Cheers, Marcel.
I guess i have not noticed that with my ATV, i have been using the standard DVD cover and so far it has worked well.
Several places to get them, try just a google search for "movie name" movie poster (click the images tab).
Also try http://www.impawards.com/
or http://www.themoviedb.org/
or http://www.movieposterdb.com/