What do I need to start a home photo studio!

[TheReef]

After reading all this, I wonder if the OP still thinks they can save money by doing it themselves?

It's gives experience that will last a life time, I think it's a very useful skill to be able to produce high quality work for whatever the occasion be.

If your reason for upgrading is to get better image quality I'll tell you this:
Your increase in image quality by upgrading from T1i to T2i will be practically ZERO...

+1, use your saved money to learn more and perfect your skills with lighting, composition etc.

 

[Phrasikleia]

It's gives experience that will last a life time, I think it's a very useful skill to be able to produce high quality work for whatever the occasion be.

Yes, that's the ultimate reward, not some nominal savings on Sears photo expenses.

 

[blockburner28]

If your reason for upgrading is to get better image quality I'll tell you this:
Your increase in image quality by upgrading from T1i to T2i will be practically ZERO.

You'll get far better results by buying a dedicated portrait lens instead. A nice and fast prime, 50mm f1.8 if you don't want to spend a lot of money (~106$ on Amazon) or a 60mm f2.8 macro if you want to get very good results (~422$ on Amazon). 60mm on a Rebel will look like 96mm on a 35mm camera, which is almost ideal portrait lens. This 60mm is also extremely sharp and fast enough to blur the background behind your subject.
Another option would be either the 100mm f2 (406$ on Amazon) or the old 100mm f2.8 macro (544$) or even the new 100mm f2.8L IS (885$). 100mm on a Rebel would look like 160mm on a 35mm camera, which is already a bit long for portraits, but still doable.

Thanks for the info man btw what about the video mode on the T2i and is the 50mm 1.8 good for portrait shots?

 

[toxic]

Thanks for the info man btw what about the video mode on the T2i and is the 50mm 1.8 good for portrait shots?

any lens will do for portrait shots. the traditional choices for minimum focal lengths on your camera are around 20-30mm for full-body, 30mm for half-body, 50mm for head-&-shoulders, and 85mm+ for headshots (for a single subject). you can always go longer if you wish, the purpose is to maintain a working distance of 6 ft or so and a flattering perspective.

with strobes, you likely won't be shooting at wide apertures. close distances and powerful lights work against that - you run into lack of DoF and shutter sync speeds. keep the kits lens, add a telephoto zoom if you like. a 28-xx zoom also ends up covering most of the portrait FL's.

 

[blockburner28]

any lens will do for portrait shots. the traditional choices for minimum focal lengths on your camera are around 20-30mm for full-body, 30mm for half-body, 50mm for head-&-shoulders, and 85mm+ for headshots (for a single subject). you can always go longer if you wish, the purpose is to maintain a working distance of 6 ft or so and a flattering perspective.

with strobes, you likely won't be shooting at wide apertures. close distances and powerful lights work against that - you run into lack of DoF and shutter sync speeds. keep the kits lens, add a telephoto zoom if you like. a 28-xx zoom also ends up covering most of the portrait FL's.

Thanks!