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I would like to replace it down the line with either a 8800GS or a GT130 from a 2009 iMac, assuming it's possible in the first place? Slot-wise I'm sure it'd be a 1:1 fit, but what I'm worried is that Apple may probably have put some software locks in place to prevent that...
You could put in the 8800 GS since that was the CTO card for the 2008, I'd assume that the GT 120/130 are also compatible. Doubt that there would be any locks in place, people do this all the time with the later 21.5"/27" iMacs from '09-11, and the 24" 2008 IIRC uses MXM as well.
 
Well I put a 500 GB SSD & a total of 8GB of RAM (all it would hold) & upgraded to El Capitan in my 07 20 inch iMac. It houses my OG entire music Library in iTunes & does nicely for streaming via AirPort Extreme & Expresses for good quality sound all around the house. I will have to eventually upgrade the iMac & Airports but for now with my 1GB internet service it stays up even to the point of 400 Mbps on all wireless devices. Rest of home is hard wired with Cat 6 so Apple TVs are happy. Going on 16 years of excellent service as an office computer as well as purveying great sounds throughout my home. I am lusting after an M2 Mac however!!!!
 
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119 Euros WTF?! 19 Euros would be more like it for a 15-year-old CPU. There are two offers on eBay Kleinanzeigen, cheaper but still vastly overpriced IMHO.
I've also tried to look over on our local marketplace (Leboncoin), but no luck, when searching for a QX9300 all I get is a listing for a laptop charger :confused: I did find a listing for a iMac with a Core2Extreme fitted though, but the bad news is that the seller put stock images of iMacs (including a 2011-era iMac, a bit anachronical if you ask), and isn't really descriptive... I sent a message anyways to inquire about what CPU is in it, but I don't have high hopes... If I truly get no answer from the seller, I guess there's only one way to find out: I'll just go for broke and order that QX9300 and if it doesn't work, well, we'll have our definitive answer and I'll go for a X7900 or whatever was the highest specced C2D that Apple offered on the A1225s.

That said, I keep hearing about some people modding C2D ThinkPads to run with QX9300s, probably why they're in high demand?

I'm probably going to make a new thread to document this, as there's not much on upgrading 2008 iMacs.

EDIT: @theMarble - That reassures me a little bit, although I'm a bit wary of going for the 8800GS knowing that nVidia G80 GPUs tend to be a bit iffy in terms of reliability, but if I can find a known good one for relatively cheap, why not? At the same time, I may have a good lead on a NOS GT130, alongside with a local seller offering a faulty 8800GS (that I'll harvest the heatsink off it, should I ever find a cheap known good 8800GS or get this one reballed).
 
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In another one of those "just for giggles" moments, I went on an unsupported macOS installing spree with one of my Macbook4,1s. Using Julian Fairfax's macOS Patcher Utility, I attempted installs of Catalina (failed; probably due to the patched APFS not working/supported. Kernel panics), High Sierra (failed; same reason, although I pondered this one and can probably get it to run if I install it on a HFS+ formatted drive), and Mojave. Mojave ended up working, and it's really not that bad. The usual issues are there- no brightness control or sleep, and no two-finger right-click, but it runs faster than my previous El Capitan unsupported install. I chalk that up to my manual hacking to get that one to work many years ago. I can get 720p video to run with minimal choppiness, as long as I use Invidious instead of YouTube, and VLC. Browsing is painless, and the install seems stable so far. Going to play with this for a few days...

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Yeah... not going there... 🤣

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What’s it like with no graphics acceleration?

It's not too bad. One thing that I noticed is a few beachballs when doing some photo edits, such as the blotting out of the serial number in my photos. Once you go to save the picture, it'll spin for about 30-60 seconds before saving. Anything graphic-related will definitely be laggy and slow. Launchpad is extremely laggy, but dock grids and stacks aren't too bad. There is basic frame buffer support so shadows appear under windows. Various glitches in the UI, but nothing deal breaking. Scrolling in browsers works perfectly fine. I need to spend more time with it to see what apps are broken (cDock is broken; constantly relaunches the dock).

I need to play around with it some more when I have some free time. I'd like to get High Sierra running on it, rather than keep Mojave, once I'm done playing around.

EDIT: macOS Patcher doesn't work with High Sierra at ALL. There's a bug in the script somewhere that doesn't remount the USB flash drive and thus, the patched files don't get copied. Once the script finishes, I can't even manually mount the drive, so something is definitely amiss with the script.
 
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An epic tale of two smartphones and three early Intel Macs. (It's image heavy so don't say you wasn't warned!)

After recharging and powering up my iPhone 6, I was met with the dreaded sight of the Apple logo flashing on and off and then the Black Screen of Death. None of the troubleshooting measures that I found worked and the only remaining option was to restore the unit to its factory settings via a Mac.

I chose to do this using my 2010 11" C2D MBA under Catalina.

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Everything appeared to be going according to plan but at the very end I received this error message:

The iPhone could not be restored. An unknown error has occurred (9)

So, I switched to Mojave...

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Still no joy. :(

Something told me that I should try a different Mac, so I switched machines and restarted the procedure on my 2011 13" MBP using High Sierra.

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Success! :)

What I don't understand is why did it work using the MBP and High Sierra but not the MBA?

Part II: the microSD card in my Android phone suffered a corruption, causing the disappearance of 12 months of images and the generation of error messages that other images couldn't be accessed. When I checked the file manager it reported that the card had gone from 10% remaining storage space to 44%. Uh oh. Courtesy of a microSD card adapter, I examined it in Finder and the remaining space was also misreported but going on past experience, I suspected (hoped) that the data was still present underneath the corruption.

First, I cloned the card's contents using CCC on my 2006 MacBook Pro as a precautionary measure, so that no matter what transpired later, I'd at least have some of the data in case the card died on me.

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With some semblance of peace of mind secured, I ran Photorec - which has saved me from data loss disasters so many times that I sent the programmer a much deserved donation.

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It recovered everything - including the 12 months of photos and videos which had seemingly vanished! :D

Could the corruption be corrected so that I could resume using the microSD card as it was prior to whatever caused the issue? I thought it was worth a try with Testdisk but it wouldn't recognise that I'd unmounted the SD card in Disk Utility so I booted Knoppix (which contains Testdisk) from a live-CD instead.

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I proceeded and in two minutes, it crashed. :(

Of course, I wasn't going to give up that easily and I ran Testdisk again from Snow Leopard in the hope that a reboot would clear away whatever had caused the read-only confusion earlier. What a difference a reboot makes...

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...it had taken several days to reach this stage of analysis and then, in a moment of clumsiness, I ended up pulling out the MagSafe connector from a machine that doesn't have a working battery. :oops:

After that, I transferred the task to my 2010 MBA and its drastically superior CPU - coupled with an up to date release of the software, made short work of the drive analysis: what had taken days on the older machine was accomplished in hours.

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The outcome?

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The partition couldn't be restored to working order, it would appear. Ah well, hardly the end of the world and I was able to recover the data - which was my sole goal - this would've been a little bonus for the episode. I can just reformat the card and continue using it, unless it's faulty? I ask this because I came across a warning that corrupted SD cards should no longer be treated as reliable. How accurate is this claim?

One important lesson which has been reiterated to me by this experience is the need to back up data - and to carry it out regularly because if I'd done so, I wouldn't have found myself in this situation. Copying images and videos from an Android phone to a Mac via USB is cumbersome - the Android File Transfer program is severely limited, even in the most basic of functionality. There is commercial software that fills this gap but it's annoying having to pay for a feature that's present with other types of smartphones.

I guess the easiest, cheapest and fastest method is to remove the microSD card periodically, connect it to the Mac and copy the data over.
 
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I can just reformat the card and continue using it, unless it's faulty?
What I’d do now is run H2testw on the card (Windows-only; the download page is in German but its UI can be switched to English). This tool completely fills it with data, then checks if all the data can be read successfully. If any errors occurred, I’d treat the card as defective and toss it.

I ask this because I came across a warning that corrupted SD cards should no longer be treated as reliable. How accurate is this claim?
I’m paranoid when it comes to possible data loss so I’d give the card a second chance if, and only if, it passes H2testw.
 
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The partition couldn't be restored to working order, it would appear. Ah well, hardly the end of the world and I was able to recover the data - which was my sole goal - this would've been a little bonus for the episode. I can just reformat the card and continue using it, unless it's faulty? I ask this because I came across a warning that corrupted SD cards should no longer be treated as reliable. How accurate is this claim?
Pretty accurate.

Once, long ago (May 2009 to be exact) my wife and I got our first smartphones, the HTC Touch Pro. Had we waited a month we could have gotten the HTC Touch Pro 2, but that's another story.

Anyway, the Touch Pro (I sent my original off years ago and bought a second one a year or so ago) has a Micro SD slot. In 2009, I made my first purchase of removable media by buying two 8GB Micro SD cards. Both have long since failed, although they lasted until 2014 and 2016. Right now, I'm using a borrowed 32GB Micro-SD card from my son.

Once you start getting errors with them, that's it. Don't trust them, move on. Flash media once it starts to go will eventually just cascade and you've got nothing but a piece of plastic and dead circuitry.

One important lesson which has been reiterated to me by this experience is the need to back up data - and to carry it out regularly because if I'd done so, I wouldn't have found myself in this situation. Copying images and videos from an Android phone to a Mac via USB is cumbersome - the Android File Transfer program is severely limited, even in the most basic of functionality. There is commercial software that fills this gap but it's annoying having to pay for a feature that's present with other types of smartphones.

I guess the easiest, cheapest and fastest method is to remove the microSD card periodically, connect it to the Mac and copy the data over.
This is one of the reasons I pay Dropbox monthly. Every time I open Dropbox it automatically scans for new photos and uploads them to a Camera Uploads folder. Any device running Dropbox will receive those new photos. I don't have to do anything, they just appear on all my Macs. Since Dropbox is cross-platform it will work on Android too and it handles this in the same way.

Google Photos is the same and if you have iCloud on an iDevice set to upload photos then you also will get new pics in the Photos app on your Macs.

As you may know, I have daily and weekly backups of all my Macs (and a PC). The weekly backups go to Dropbox (via my MacPro). Since the Camera Uploads folder is part of the folder structure on my Macs, guess what gets backed up from my phone? My photos. I've got multiple backups that have those photos then. Always good to have multiples instead of none.

For my iPhones and my Pixel I do not keep all my eggs in one basket. Everything is cloud based. Google for contacts, calendars, reminders and note. All my email is IMAP and Messages are iMessage. I cannot account for SMS, but I periodically do full iCloud backups (and on my Pixel, Google backups) so that should take care of that. Apps I don't care about, I can redownload them and pictures I explained already. Videos are treated like pics, so those are covered too via Dropbox/Google Photos/iCloud Photos.

All of this because I once had a Mac that had everything on it and no backup. The HD went bad and only shipping the HD to Alsoft in Texas saved my data. After that, I got serious about backups.

Sounds like you're at that point…
 
I can just reformat the card and continue using it, unless it's faulty? I ask this because I came across a warning that corrupted SD cards should no longer be treated as reliable. How accurate is this claim?
Addendum: f3 does the same as H2testw and can be compiled on Linux and macOS. It might be in Knoppix’ repos as a precompiled binary? It’s in Ubuntu’s repos.
 
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After that, I got serious about backups.

Sounds like you're at that point…

I am and I'm trying to sort out historic stuff and then move onto more recent data like my TV recordings archive - which is huge and much of which is irreplaceable and I don't want to risk facing a day when a storage device fails on me and my luck has run out in terms of data recovery.

Addendum: f3 does the same as H2testw and can be compiled on Linux and macOS. It might be in Knoppix’ repos as a precompiled binary? It’s in Ubuntu’s repos.

Thanks! :)

It couldn't find it within the Knoppix menu (it's probably amongst the software in the GUI for the DVD version) but F3 is very easy to obtain for the Mac:

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I already have Homebrew installed so I only needed to run the command as listed. However, I found something that's even better!

F3XSwift - a GUI version of F3 for the Mac. :D

I've had it running for 40 odd minutes on my 2011 MBP and will provide an update once it eventually produces a report.

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I've had it running for 40 odd minutes on my 2011 MBP and will provide an update once it eventually produces a report.
It looks like the SD card has 20 GB or so of data on it? It’s highly advisable to run these tools on an empty or freshly formatted medium to test the whole thing: the tools can only create test files on free space. So if you don’t get any errors on the remaining free space, there might still be errors in the area that’s currently occupied by existing data.
 
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It looks like the SD card has 20 GB or so of data on it?

Nooooooooo!

The corruption had caused the space to be misreported by the Android File Manager and macOS. The SD card actually contained 50 GB of data as is shown here in the folder info of the recovered data.

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It’s highly advisable to run these tools on an empty or freshly formatted medium to test the whole thing: the tools can only create test files on free space. So if you don’t get any errors on the remaining free space, there might still be errors in the area that’s currently occupied by existing data.

Noted, I really wasn't thinking straight! I've reformatted the SD card and restarted the test.

Thanks. :)
 
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Copying images and videos from an Android phone to a Mac via USB is cumbersome - the Android File Transfer program is severely limited, even in the most basic of functionality.
Oh yes. Old versions (like, 4.1) of Android exported SD cards as USB mass storage so you could simply manipulate them in Finder or whatever, but that meant the phone couldn't access the card while that was going on. That became problematic and we ended up with the situation we have now.

I am and I'm trying to sort out historic stuff and then move onto more recent data like my TV recordings archive - which is huge and much of which is irreplaceable and I don't want to risk facing a day when a storage device fails on me and my luck has run out in terms of data recovery.
Then you need a viable backup strategy ASAP. :) There's a saying (I don't know who said it) that goes something like "Data that hasn't been backed up should be considered lost."
 
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(Sorry for not having seen your message earlier!)

I've also tried to look over on our local marketplace (Leboncoin), but no luck, when searching for a QX9300 all I get is a listing for a laptop charger [...]
I'll be willing to act as a man-in-the-middle if you want to go for one of the eBay Kleinanzeigen deals. :)

I did find a listing for a iMac with a Core2Extreme fitted though, but the bad news is that the seller put stock images of iMacs (including a 2011-era iMac, a bit anachronical if you ask), and isn't really descriptive... [...]
The 2007 iMac could be configured with a 2.8 GHz Core 2 Extreme X7900 but that's a dual-core and lacks SSE4 instructions, so putting one of those into a 2008 iMac would restrict you to El Capitan in terms of macOS. The 3.06 GHz Core 2 Extreme X9100 may be worth looking into, but apart from an unlocked multiplier, looks to be identical to the E8435.

[...] and I'll go for a X7900 or whatever was the highest specced C2D that Apple offered on the A1225s.
The best you can do on a 2008 iMac is the 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo E8435, as said earlier. If you can't find that, the T9900 has the same clock speed but a lower TDP, meaning it should™ run (quite?) a bit cooler.
 
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Update time with my misbehaving microSD card!

I patiently waited for 24 hours and left F3XSwift to run on my 2011 MBP but there was no progress whatsoever. None.

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Exactly the same thing happened when I tried other flash devices which are definitely confirmed as working so I switched over to my 2010 MBA and ran the tests from there under Catalina.

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Would you look at that! Despite being described as compatible with High Sierra, it clearly didn't work with the OS because as you can see, it happily got underway with Catalina but I had to adjust the power management settings to stop the computer from sleeping because this caused the drive to eject.

Here's the verdict...

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This sheds further light on why Testdisk couldn't correct the corruption. Thank goodness that I saved my data at least. I don't know if the SD card was a fake that failed - it's too late for me to file a complaint with the seller as I bought it years ago but I'm now on my guard and whenever I purchase an SD card I'll run this program immediately so that I can ascertain its authenticity and take appropriate action if its counterfeit.

Thanks for your guidance on this @Amethyst1 and @eyoungren.
 
My wife found really sweet grandparents by choice for our little 4-years old daughter. They have a 2011 27" iMac they are having trouble with (slow, lack of up to date browser support, etc.). They just use it for browsing and office, so I offered to bring new life to it. Today I installed a 500gb SSD and 16gb ram, now everything's fast again. Next step, Montery via OCLP. Will feel like a new machine to them. Since they would have almost bought a new one I'm really happy that I can save them a lot of money. They helped us a gread deal with the little one and now I can return a little bit. :)

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This sheds further light on why Testdisk couldn't correct the corruption. Thank goodness that I saved my data at least. I don't know if the SD card was a fake that failed - it's too late for me to file a complaint with the seller as I bought it years ago but I'm now on my guard and whenever I purchase an SD card I'll run this program immediately so that I can ascertain its authenticity and take appropriate action if its counterfeit.
You ever see those eBay vendors that advertise 1TB USB flash sticks? I had one of those once. Lasted about a year. Bought another early in 2022. Worked fine for about five minutes. I reformatted it as HFS+ and it bombed and died.

Fortunately I got my money back. These vendors expect a certain amount of failures I guess. Turns out, what they do is use a bunch of circuit gimmickry to make these sticks appear as whatever capacity it is you're buying. But if you try and use the full capacity it will error out.

I'm just mentioning it because this is flash media, which is used for a variety of different storage media. Not saying that this is what happened in your case but with regards to being authentic or not this is something to keep in mind. It's not such a big deal to lose $9-10 on a stick here and there, but if you're spending a sizable amount of money, yeah, be sure it's real - USB stick, SD card, et all.
 
You ever see those eBay vendors that advertise 1TB USB flash sticks?
Turns out, what they do is use a bunch of circuit gimmickry to make these sticks appear as whatever capacity it is you're buying. But if you try and use the full capacity it will error out.
That's the deal. There are also "fake" SSDs that behave like this. f3 and H2testw expose this mockery, which is why they're the first thing to run on any flash memory device that's even remotely questionable.

It's not such a big deal to lose $9-10 on a stick here and there, but if you're spending a sizable amount of money, yeah, be sure it's real - USB stick, SD card, et all.
It's not so much the money, it's when you store data you care about on one of these ticking timebombs and they fire.
 
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It's not so much the money, it's when you store data you care about on one of these ticking timebombs and they fire.
That's where I weigh the price. I know that if I'm paying $10 for a 1TB stick that I don't store valuable data on it. Garbage internet files sure. Sneakernet, sure (a copy of the original) and so on.

You get what you pay for. Now, if I'm spending $500 or so on a 1TB Samsung SSD, then yeah - I expect to be able to trust that.
 
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That's where I weigh the price. I know that if I'm paying $10 for a 1TB stick that I don't store valuable data on it. Garbage internet files sure. Sneakernet, sure (a copy of the original) and so on.
The problem with those "fake" devices is that unless you test them to expose their real capacity, you won't know when they'll fail. And even with their real capacity exposed, I reckon they're still not trustworthy as they might use crappy or recycled NAND that's about to die. They're ticking timebombs not worth bothering with IMHO. :)

You get what you pay for.
Absolutely. But the thing is, one might as well get a, say, 64GB stick from a reputable brand for $10 and have something that's guaranteed to hold, say, 64GB.

And it's not always easy to identify fakes by their ridiculously low price. There are cases of counterfeit memory cards that look very much like originals and aren't that much cheaper, if at all.
 
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