Dinner was based on, borrowed from, derived from, a number of Italian culinary classics, mainly some tweaks inspired by both classic bolognese, and ragù, where elements from each were borrowed as required or desired with the aim of not being too prescriptive with respect to the venerable originals, as there were elements, or features, that I wished to borrow from both dishes (namely, red wine, tomatoes and milk).
I had some shin beef on the bone (known as beef shank Across The Pond), and Italian recipes seem to work best with this cut of meat.
The oven went on first, (at a nice, low heat, dinner was going to be in there for hours and hours and hours), starting at 160C, reducing to 150C, then 140C, over a period of about seven and a half hours).
Prep: Gritting my teeth at those mendacious recipes that tell you that the prep will "take 15 minutes" (they are lying) - in fact, it took the best part of an hour, that is, not quite sixty minutes (maybe 59?), an Italian stainless steel sauté pan (Lagostina) was pressed into action on the stove top.
Olive oil in the pan, and diced guanciale to follow. These days, not only do I use guanciale when certain specific recipes (Carbonara, All'Amatriciana etc) call for it, actually, I have come to use it in place of pancetta, when recipes call for pancetta, as I (far) prefer it.
The nicely softened (and translucent) guanciale was transferred (by slotted spoon) into a large, copper casserole dish (French, Le Mauviel).
Next, the meat: These days, I very roughly chop the shin bone meat before adding it to a sauté pan, each 'slice' will be cut into three or four large pieces; this is to stop it 'curling' in the pan. Including the bone in the casserole is essential to the finished dish, the flavour it (and its marrow) bestows is incomparable. Brown the meat in batches (on account of its bone, it takes up quite a bit of space in a pan), then transfer the browned meat pieces (slotted spoon the mode of transport) to the large casserole dish where the guanciale awaits, and season them (sea salt and freshly ground black pepper).
If needed, add some more olive oil (extra virgin, naturally) to the sauté pan, and the next step is to sauté the soffritto, that mix of finely diced carrot, celery and onion, that forms the flavour base of so much classic Italian cuisine. (The French culinary concept of mirepoix - with the exact same vegetables - fulfils much the same function in French cuisine).
The knives I used were Japanese, two Classic range Shun knives, - I've had them for years, they feel like an extension of my wrist - a fantastic 6" utility knife, and a heavy classic chef's 6" knife. Both brilliant, the heavy classic chef's 6" is superb with guanciale, while the 6" utility knife is the knife I invariably reach for automatically, unless there is a precise need for a specific blade, such as a paring knife.
Once the soffritto was well on the way, minced garlic (some recipes recommended fours cloves of garlic, others advised six, I like garlic, hence ten nice, fat, cloves were minced with my nice, metal, Italian garlic crusher - a gift to me from my mother from a holiday she took in Italy more than thirty years ago) was added to the soffritto mix. Once softened, this was then transferred to the copper casserole.
A few sprigs of both thyme and rosemary (organic, etc) were added to the casserole dish.
Red wine (yes, Italian) was used to deglaze the pan, the liquid contents of the pan were then added to the casserole, along with stock, a little tomato puree, and a tin of San Marzano tomatoes that had been squashed (is there a more satisfying feeling on a wet Monday afternoon than physically squashing and squeezing San Marzano tomatoes over and into a glass bowl?)
The gloriously mashed San Marzano tomatoes were seasoned (sea salt and black pepper), added to the casserole, their tin rinsed out into the casserole, as well.
This lot then headed into the (pre-heated) oven, there to spend the next six to seven hours, being taken out and inspected, tasted and stirred roughly every hour and a half to two hours; some recipes suggested every 20 minutes, but that seemed to me to be necessary only if you were cooking on a stove top. In the oven, with ample liquid, the dish could look after itself, and needed little oversight, just an occasional check, to ensure that it did not dry out (and it didn't), and to give it a satisfied stir every hour or two.
Around a half an hour before I planned to dine, salted water was put on the boil, and I grated a decent sized hunk of Parmigiano Reggiano.
These days, I find that I tend to prefer Pecorino Romano, and, just as guanciale has replaced pancetta in my larder, so, also for the most part, has Pecorino Romano supplanted Parmigiano Reggiano. However, some dishes require - and go better with - Parmigiano Reggiano, and today's repast was one of them.
The casserole was removed from the oven, the heat reduced to 100C, and I added a glass of milk (full fat, organic) - and stirred it through - for the final few minutes of the cooking. When I first came across this suggestion (in a Nigel Slater bolognese recipe, over a decade ago), I was astonished, but several Italian recipes I consulted more recently confirmed their use of milk with this dish. Anyway, strange and wonderful to relate, it works wonderfully well.
This is a dish that seems to call for a flat pasta; I used fettuccine (courtesy of the 'rustichella d'abruzzo' company,
@yaxomoxay may have heard of them, the cheesemonger stocks their products, and I have been using them for around 15 years, they produce excellent pasta), cooking it in salted boiling water, and reserving some of the lovely pasta cooking water, for the starch in the pasta cooking water, when added to the sauce, allows it to bind all the better with the pasta.
Several ladles of sauce (from the casserole) were ladled into the sauté pan (summoned into service once again), whereupon the pasta (tongs are brilliant for this) also found its way into the sauté pan, with some starchy pasta cooking water and more sauce added as this was stirred and mixed, and melded and married; the meat was moist and tender, literally falling from the bone, so soft and tender and flavoursome you could cut it easily with a spoon.
Dinner was then served, (table cloth, napkins, place mats, coasters, proper cutlery, crockery, glassware, etc) and - for once - the Parmigiano Reggiano (which I rarely use in this context, as I have come to prefer Pecorino Romano) worked exceptionally well.
And yes, dinner was delicious, though I say so myself.