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Of course negs are the reverse of transparencies. If there is no detail in the shadows of a neg, the detail cannot be recovered. By using developers such as 2 step D-23, Adams could keep the highlights from blocking while maintaining full shadow detail and good mid-range contrast, even in the high contrast lighting that he preferred.
I wish I had his patience, most of us just capture in an image when we come across a suitable subject, AA would spend hours, sometime days scoping out, planning, figuring out the optimal sunlight and weather conditions. Of course his subjects rarely moved!
 
It depends on the film type.

Overexposure builds density in color negative film and at least up until you reach the Dmax of the film you can continue extracting detail. The shadows correspond to lower density on the negative and it's quite literally impossible to resolve detail if density goes to base+fog(Dmin) as there's no detail there.

Some of the best color negative films like Porta 160 can have 10-12 stops of dynamic range between Dmin and Dmax. Even 10 years ago, that was better than a lot of digital cameras.

Reversal film(AKA Slide Film) is the opposite. Highlights are base+fog(Dmin) and shadows go toward Dmax. You CAN extract detail out of the shadows to some extent, although it tends to need a really good scanner(sometimes you need to do multipass scanning, which presents its own problems) and the overall dynamic range is typically in the 4-6 stop range depending on the film.

One key difference with film, though, is that the falloff at extremes of exposure tends to be gentle whereas digital, especially older cameras, would chop the highlights rather sharply. That could be really ugly when the channels clipped at slightly different levels and you'd get color fringing. I think the worst camera for that I've used was the Nikon D2H, which used a Nikon-developed sensor called LBCAST that was awful and was only used in that camera. The CCDs used in other early Nikons could have that trouble also. I've been meaning to start a thread here on using early digital cameras, as in a perverse sort of way I enjoy using my D1 series cameras and seeing how far we've come.
Thank you!

For a digital, the Fuji X-E1 had a gentle roll off into the shadows which, to my eye, got a lot sharper with the X-E2. It had a reasonable dynamic range in the shadow end too.
 
Thank you!

For a digital, the Fuji X-E1 had a gentle roll off into the shadows which, to my eye, got a lot sharper with the X-E2. It had a reasonable dynamic range in the shadow end too.

That's good to know.

Fuji definitely has some great sensors and they're not afraid to "think outside the box." They also seem to value looking like film a lot.

I still have working examples of all the old Nikon-based Fuji DSLRs with the "Super CCD." Most are kind of crummy and clumsy operating cameras, but the S5 is the real prize of the series since it has the best sensor and is actually built into a DSLR body(D200) rather than a repurposed film body. I haven't used it in a while, but in particular even shortly pre-COVID I was using it as a studio camera for portraits because of its incredible skin tones. It still has some CCD artifacts, but also keeps a lot of the good things about CCDs intact.
 
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Good. Then everyone should buy the Powershot and avoid the more expensive cameras.

That's not what I said.

You are seemingly evaluating your camera in this context only on cost.

It was $500, which you perceive as very expensive, so it must be good.

There are cameras more expensive than that that are less good. There are less expensive cameras that are better.

Personally, if I had $500 to spend, I'd probably buy a Nikon D700 and a 24-85mm VR. That's a heck of a good combination, albeit a bit dated now.
 
That's not what I said.

You are seemingly evaluating your camera in this context only on cost.

It was $500, which you perceive as very expensive, so it must be good.

There are cameras more expensive than that that are less good. There are less expensive cameras that are better.

Personally, if I had $500 to spend, I'd probably buy a Nikon D700 and a 24-85mm VR. That's a heck of a good combination, albeit a bit dated now.
I don't like Nikon. I like Canon.
 
I don't like Nikon. I like Canon.
Just stay with your powershot. We will all go enjoy our own cameras, regardless of brand. But back to the original topic, take on some of the great advice you‘ve been given about composition, lighting, intent, etc and go work on creating great pictures. If you create some you think are great, bring them here and post them.
 
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Most point and shoot cameras are all the same. I doubt I could tell the difference from a jpeg if you had a Nikon or a Canon.
Might be so.

But preference covers a vast range of facets. And many might not obviously and directly contribute to picture quality.
 
Might be so.

But preference covers a vast range of facets. And many might not obviously and directly contribute to picture quality.
A point and shoot is just what the name says. You aim, click the shutter. There is no need to dive into menus more than once. People with P&S's are not worried about what happens after they take the pic. That's it, they are done.
 
A point and shoot is just what the name says. You aim, click the shutter. There is no need to dive into menus more than once. People with P&S's are not worried about what happens after they take the pic. That's it, they are done.
Again - you are going to menus, and inside things.

Could be colour of the cases, smell, feel in the hand, ... The poster simply expressed a preference.
 
Again - you are going to menus, and inside things.

Could be colour of the cases, smell, feel in the hand, ... The poster simply expressed a preference.
Unless we are talking of a 35mm film point and shoot none of them feel good in the hand.
 
1630528945220.png

Unless we are talking of a 35mm film point and shoot none of them feel good in the hand.

Not even the incredible QuickTake?! /s
 
View attachment 1826161


Not even the incredible QuickTake?! /s

I've wanted, just for fun, to start a thread on early digital cameras. I occasionally use a Nikon D1 and a few other early pieces.

With that said, I do have one of these around, and it would be interesting to break it out in all it's 640x480 glory. I haven't used it(even though I got it several years ago in a lot with some Macs of the era) because I refused to pay $40+ for an 8mb SmartMedia card. I use to have a couple of them, but can't locate them.
 
I've wanted, just for fun, to start a thread on early digital cameras. I occasionally use a Nikon D1 and a few other early pieces.

With that said, I do have one of these around, and it would be interesting to break it out in all it's 640x480 glory. I haven't used it(even though I got it several years ago in a lot with some Macs of the era) because I refused to pay $40+ for an 8mb SmartMedia card. I use to have a couple of them, but can't locate them.
My first digital was like this.
 
Back the early days of digital cameras, I bought a Nikon CoolPix because had good luch with Nikon film cameras. I hated it, cost me $900 and I ended up giving it away to my younger son. I tried to take pictures of my grand children, by the time the shutter released, they had left the room. Terrible camera. Then I bought the Olympus E-10 and have loved that one ever since. Just got it back after being in storage at my other son's house. Long story. Battery was shot, out of production for 6 years, even if I could find one, it wouldn't be any good. Made my own adaption, now working fine.
E-10.jpeg

Wire coming out of original battery compartment plugs into DC input on camera.
 
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