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I dont know if you have posted this before, but have you tested your card first with MacOS.. ?
And tested external display ports under MacOS.. ?
Does this work.. ?

Do Windows Bootcamp secondly, first try MacOS.
step by step.. ;)

A black screen was MacOS, but you are right, I have not tested on an external port.
I got into Windows by luck (holding option then select the drive and then it booted...)
Mac is not much use, is it? If I get there I cannot flash from MacOS or can I?
 
Hi,
I`ve installed Quadro K2000M in my iMac 27" 2010 after the native Radeon HD5750 broke down.
There is black screen while booting then evereything is OK. As long as K2000M supports metal I decided to upgrade from High Sierra to Catalina, but native installer still treats my Mac as not supported. I tried patcher from Dosdude but when it comes to installing from USB Flash I cannot chose USB boot disk as there is no access through Option at boot. I tried "Install on this computer" option in the patcher but again I cannot disable SIP in terminal in start menu...
Is there a way to disable SIP from running OS? Or any other way around?
It is simple to disable SIP.. disconnect the boot HD from your Mac (pull the connector) and use an USB Drive with bootable High Sierra.. when no boot HD will detect then it will autom. starts from USB .. then use Terminal and typ in "csrutil disable"
turn off Mac, then connect the HD back on and start.... :)
 
It is simple to disable SIP.. disconnect the boot HD from your Mac (pull the connector) and use an USB Drive with bootable High Sierra.. when no boot HD will detect then it will autom. starts from USB .. then use Terminal and typ in "csrutil disable"
turn off Mac, then connect the HD back on and start.... :)
I doubt that booting from USB with HD disconnected will make my GPU show boot screen... and "csrutil disable" is possible to run from Recovery Terminal only. Nevertheless I`ll give a try
 
hello to all guys, of course I signed up because I also have an imac with a dead video card, an imac 27 2011, I would like to repair my imac, but some points are not clear to me:
- metal support, it is necessary if I want to install osx from 10.14 onwards right?
- MXM video card, DELL / ALIENWARE are the best as compatibility, is bios / rom flash necessary or avoidable?
- I don't care about bootcamp, I don't care to use a second monitor, I can do without metal compatibility, I just work with sierra or high sierra at most. Could I also use other cards, like the 680m-660m-square k3000m?


sorry for the many questions but I can't understand these points, surely you have much more experience than me and I hope you can help me understand.
 
A black screen was MacOS, but you are right, I have not tested on an external port.
I got into Windows by luck (holding option then select the drive and then it booted...)
Mac is not much use, is it? If I get there I cannot flash from MacOS or can I?

After almost 3 hours of swapping cards (Orginal AMD 6770M and the GTX-780m) with and without a connected external monitor, I think I am pretty sure I cannot move on with the GTX-780m that I have without one of the 3 things:

- flashing it blindly in Windows (by running a start-up script that will automate the nvflash commands as soon as windows start)
- re-soldering the vbios eeprom - I think this is just a theoretical possibility as I the chip model I have and is different model to the one on the graphic card.
- finding someone with a Dell computer that will be willing to lend it for flashing purposes
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hello to all guys, of course I signed up because I also have an imac with a dead video card, an imac 27 2011, I would like to repair my imac, but some points are not clear to me:
- metal support, it is necessary if I want to install osx from 10.14 onwards right?
- MXM video card, DELL / ALIENWARE are the best as compatibility, is bios / rom flash necessary or avoidable?
- I don't care about bootcamp, I don't care to use a second monitor, I can do without metal compatibility, I just work with sierra or high sierra at most. Could I also use other cards, like the 680m-660m-square k3000m?

If it's only repair and not upgrade, your best option is to stick to the original Radeon cards.
[automerge]1573850677[/automerge]
It is simple to disable SIP.. disconnect the boot HD from your Mac (pull the connector) and use an USB Drive with bootable High Sierra.. when no boot HD will detect then it will autom. starts from USB .. then use Terminal and typ in "csrutil disable"
turn off Mac, then connect the HD back on and start.... :)

I doubt this will work. According to my understanding SIP needs to be disabled from the recovery mode of the OS where you want to disable it.
 
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If it's only repair and not upgrade, your best option is to stick to the original Radeon cards.
[automerge]1573850677[/automerge]


I want to upgrade, but I want to understand if, remaining with sierra or high sierra, I have to find an nvidia card with metal support or I can use a card different from 765m-770m-780m-860m-k2000m-k1100m
 
MXM video card, DELL / ALIENWARE are the best as compatibility, is bios / rom flash necessary or avoidable?

Because the GPU is not made for an iMac, the vbios is different, thats why you don't have a boot screen, now if you want a boot screen (which will be required if you want to turn off SIP (System Integrity Protection) or install a Patch for Mojave and other things) you will have to flash the card
 
Because the GPU is not made for an iMac, the vbios is different, thats why you don't have a boot screen, now if you want a boot screen (which will be required if you want to turn off SIP (System Integrity Protection) or install a Patch for Mojave and other things) you will have to flash the card

this is the most complicated part for me, I don't have a window pc where to mount the video card for flash the bios
 
I want to upgrade, but I want to understand if, remaining with sierra or high sierra, I have to find an nvidia card with metal support or I can use a card different from 765m-770m-780m-860m-k2000m-k1100m

Up to High Sierra you don’t need metal.
 
you can use a Linux machine or a raspberry pi

But, then again it’s not all that simple. My card which was supposed to be from Alienware turned out that is not and the eeprom with the vbios is different to the chips people can flash. With that in mind you need to purchase Alienware that has a flashable chip. See pictures from previous posts of mine and compare them to the florin’s or nick’s
 
thanks for the answer, if i want to stay with sierra 10.12 or high sierra 10.13 the patch I don't need? and can I also use video cards that do not support metal?
It`s all about cost - you have to decide:
If you are going to stay with Sierra or High Sierra I would recommend K2000M - you could easily buy it for apprx $55-60 - and no flashing is needed, everything works perfect apart from boot screen. While native card will cost up to $200 and no metal. With 765m-770m-780m-860m the price will be $150 but with flashed bios you will have metal and 10.14-15 OS and further on... for the time being. Judging on what`s going on in a couple of years not only 2010-11 Macs will be unsupported but it will come the turn of 2013-14. Moreover consider what will happen to your 8-10 years PSU, Matrix and the rest parts... so it`s all about money))
 
It`s all about cost - you have to decide:
If you are going to stay with Sierra or High Sierra I would recommend K2000M - you could easily buy it for apprx $55-60 - and no flashing is needed, everything works perfect apart from boot screen.

I have the version with i7 3.4 of imac 27 For my needs it's still a great computer. $ 60 for nvidia card, another $ 50 to increase the ram, I already have an SSD ... I think it's the best way to improve an 8-year-old computer. for the future we will see ...
 
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I have the version with i7 3.4 of imac 27 For my needs it's still a great computer. $ 60 for nvidia card, another $ 50 to increase the ram, I already have an SSD ... I think it's the best way to improve an 8-year-old computer. for the future we will see ...
The only thing you have to foresee is that you`ll need to drill out the heatsink.
 
After almost 3 hours of swapping cards (Orginal AMD 6770M and the GTX-780m) with and without a connected external monitor
<snip>
- re-soldering the vbios eeprom - I think this is just a theoretical possibility as I the chip model I have and is different model to the one on the graphic card.

Hi jborko,

Your EEPROM IC looks like a MX25L2006EZNI to me, based on your photos. They use the same chip on the K3000M cards.

You could still flash it with one of Nick's ROMs, blindly in Windows is probably the best way. Maybe with a batch file that runs automatically on boot, or maybe you could figure out which keypresses you need to make and do it that way (eg. Command-R will probably bring up the Windows "run" dialog box, you can type cmd or something blindly, and so on). You'd probably just need another Windows PC to figure out the keystrokes, and don't forget to make a backup of the original ROM.

You could also de-solder that EEPROM, but it has a ground plane beneath it that the chip is also soldered to (a large solder pad under the chip), so it requires a lot of heat and patience. It'd be best to heat the card from both sides, and definitely pre-heat the PCB to help overcome the thermal mass issue of the ground plane. I've de-soldered two of them, FWIW, but I also do electronic rework as a day job.

A safer option (but still by no means "safe"), would be to solder very thin magnet wire to the small solder joints on the sides of the IC, and break it out onto a couple 4-pin 2.54mm SIL PCB headers that you can insert into the EEPROM programmer. You don't need access to the pad below the chip. If you're interested in trying that, then PM me and I'll explain the procedure I'd use to do it.
 
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In other news I'm now liquid cooling my WX7100. Built a custom loop for it, and it's fully installed now. Wonderful thermals on the system now. Just ironing out some memory clock instability in the gpu now.
 
Hi jborko,

Your EEPROM IC looks like a MX25L2006EZNI to me, based on your photos. They use the same chip on the K3000M cards.

You could still flash it with one of Nick's ROMs, blindly in Windows is probably the best way. Maybe with a batch file that runs automatically on boot, or maybe you could figure out which keypresses you need to make and do it that way (eg. Command-R will probably bring up the Windows "run" dialog box, you can type cmd or something blindly, and so on). You'd probably just need another Windows PC to figure out the keystrokes, and don't forget to make a backup of the original ROM.

You could also de-solder that EEPROM, but it has a ground plane beneath it that the chip is also soldered to (a large solder pad under the chip), so it requires a lot of heat and patience. It'd be best to heat the card from both sides, and definitely pre-heat the PCB to help overcome the thermal mass issue of the ground plane. I've de-soldered two of them, FWIW, but I also do electronic rework as a day job.

A safer option (but still by no means "safe"), would be to solder very thin magnet wire to the small solder joints on the sides of the IC, and break it out onto a couple 4-pin 2.54mm SIL PCB headers that you can insert into the EEPROM programmer. You don't need access to the pad below the chip. If you're interested in trying that, then PM me and I'll explain the procedure I'd use to do it.

Hey rmd79! Many thanks for the extensive explanation.

Yesterday I did what you suggested, but I did it in a slightly different way. I wrote-up small batch to run after windows start-up, to attempt a blind flash. Unfortunately, there seems to be a different problem with the card as nvflash doesn't even go through with the backup (before attempting the flash itself). That brings the chip replacement back into consideration. However, from looking at the pictures and inspecting the card more thoroughly there seems to be some damage around the eeprom. The conclusion is that I have requested a return of the card.

Still, while I have it, your 3rd option is what I like the most and will try to see whether I can achieve that. I will probably not be able to get material over the weekend so will have to do it next week. The thing is that ch341 programmer does not list MX25L2006EZNI in the supported chips, so I think that it might be a waste of time. Maybe only if I can replace the chip with one that is supported by the programmer, but on another hand is also supported by the current schematic of the card. And now we are getting into an area outside of my capabilities. Similarly, the soldering technique - I don't think I have it for SMD. But if the seller will not accept return I will give it a shot.

In other news I'm now liquid cooling my WX7100. Built a custom loop for it, and it's fully installed now. Wonderful thermals on the system now. Just ironing out some memory clock instability in the gpu now.

Now, this is something which I am very interested in and looking forward to see some pictures.
 
Still, while I have it, your 3rd option is what I like the most and will try to see whether I can achieve that. I will probably not be able to get material over the weekend so will have to do it next week. The thing is that ch341 programmer does not list MX25L2006EZNI in the supported chips, so I think that it might be a waste of time. Maybe only if I can replace the chip with one that is supported by the programmer, but on another hand is also supported by the current schematic of the card. And now we are getting into an area outside of my capabilities. Similarly, the soldering technique - I don't think I have it for SMD. But if the seller will not accept return I will give it a shot.

Based on a quick search, it looks like the MX25L2006E is supported by flashrom. The "ZNI" part doesn't matter - ZN just means WSON package (eg. as opposed to SOIC-8 for example), and the "I" just refers to its industrial temperature class.

It's not relevant now, but just as a test, I swapped the MX25L2006EZNI chip with a GD25Q20BT (which I pre-programmed with a suitable K3000M ROM) and can confirm it works without any other changes to the hardware. I can also confirm that the WSON footprint is compatible with SOIC-8, so you would (skill permitting) be able to remove that WSON chip and replace it with either the SOIC-8 version (MX25L2006EM1I) or a GD25Q20BT.
 
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So I failed. It appears that me trying to get the programmer clip to stick on the bios chip has damaged the mainboard.

there should be four capacitors on the left of the bios chip. Now there are only two. I’ve attached a before and after picture. Both capacitors are nowhere to be found. Even if they are still in the case or even my house for that matter they are so small that searching and finding them would be near to impossible. Even if I could find them I don’t have the soldering skills to reattach them.

I’m thinking of buying a secondhand board.
Or if anyone has a better suggestion....
A80B6968-B0AA-43C1-9325-14B577E2146E.jpeg
before pic

252B143D-91D2-40B2-BFCD-C04E6A8D2148.jpeg

after pic
 
As it appears so... Yes.

I just tried the old clip on the bios again without success and when I stopped and wanted to boot the iMac it showed the same symptoms as before.. just starting and stoppen the fans.
So I cleanes the area around the bios chip with some alcohol and drew the pencil lines again, it took two attempts and increasingly thicker lines but the iMac is booting again. :)
 
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