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So ... while waiting on my gtx780 ... I put the old amd in the oven. 10 minutes @ 200 degrees celsius. New thermal paste. All back together ... the Mac just boots. Everything works ... I’m so happy :)

Ah, so this myth of baking the GPU really does work..at least to some extent, I'm gonna try too - got nothing to loose.

Did you preheat the oven and then put the card in ?.

Fan oven or non fan oven ?.
 
Ah, so this myth of baking the GPU really does work..at least to some extent, I'm gonna try too - got nothing to loose.

Did you preheat the oven and then put the card in ?.

Fan oven or non fan oven ?.

Recipe.

What i did. (fan oven):
Preheat oven to 200 degres.
Prepare 4 cooking aluminium balls to put card on it. (air need to circulate all around card).
Let the card for 8 minutes in oven. ( some say a little more)

It works....But for how much time?


"Brasures des composants électroniques sur circuits imprimés[modifier | modifier le code]
La réduction drastique du plomb concerne en premier lieu les industries de matériels électroniques. Ils ont été contraint d'utiliser, pour les brasures (incorrectement nommées « soudures ») des composants électroniques, des alliages dépourvus de plomb, matériau qui est utilisé à plus ou moins 40 %, pour environ 60 % d'étain, dans les alliages autorisés les plus utilisés avant l'adoption de cette directive.

Les alliages compatibles avec cette directive, qui ont été utilisés en remplacement, sont simplement des alliages dont le taux d'étain a été augmenté afin de compenser totalement la part de plomb, ces alliages sont donc composés à plus de 95 % d'étain ; ils fondent à une température plus élevée (jusqu'à 220 °C, soit 30 à 35 °C de plus que l'étain-plomb (183 °C)).

En fait, les composants eux-mêmes étaient souvent déjà sans plomb, mais le processus d'assemblage sur les circuits imprimés par exemple continuait à utiliser une brasure en plomb/étain proposant de nombreux avantages, notamment économique mais aussi commercial avec son aspect brillant, l'aspect des brasures composé en quasi-totalité d'étain souffre d'un aspect terne. Mais depuis le milieu des années 2000, un nouvel alliage étain-nickel-germanium permet de retrouver cet aspect brillant que procure les alliages au plomb, même s'il est assez peu répandu (soumis à un brevet), qu'il ait un point de fusion encore plus haut de l'ordre de 10 °C et qu'il soit plus onéreux.

Le changement d'alliage pour les brasures a conduit à devoir modifier ou remplacer certains processus de fabrications, certains matériels et même certains des matériaux des composants pour les adapter à une température de fusion un peu plus élevée. Cette donnée thermique fut la plus difficile à surmonter pour les industriels qui mirent entre cinq et dix ans à maitriser convenablement la fonte de ces alliages dépourvus de plomb, pendant ces années, ils ont été confrontés à des taux de pannes nettement plus importants sur les circuits électroniques qu'ils produisaient. Cela est due au fait que le point de fonte de l'étain sans plomb est très proche du point de « casse » de certains composants électroniques qui a obligé les constructeurs à limiter la température appliquée, ainsi les brasures ont été mal fondu, voire pas fondu et à peine en contact laissant place à l'oxydation avec le temps ce qui empêche le courant de circuler, notamment sur les composants à matrice de billes dont on peut difficilement contrôler avec certitude la réussite ou non de la fonte. Les exemples les plus connus ayant subi ces dommages sont les consoles Playstation 3 de Sony et Xbox 360 de Microsoft ainsi que bon nombre de composants informatiques, en particulier les cartes graphiques.

Le choix des matériaux et des composants utilisés est un des éléments des stratégies d'entreprise. De fait, dans ces entreprises, plusieurs activités sont concernées : achats, R&D, marketing, qualité, formation, responsabilité sociale des entreprises, etc. Il s'agit d'une véritable révolution technologique qui influe fortement sur la qualité et la fiabilité des produits"
 
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I made a curved plate from alu foil put the card on. Then 4 mini towers to lift the card a little bit. I put the oven on ‘grill’ and with the curved plate I hope the heat reflected to also bake the downside as well.

I preheated the oven yes. Then 9-10 minutes @ 200 degrees celsius.
See pics. Mac is running again. Even if it only works for a month, I can now make a fresh time machine copy, get some software working I need and do some other things.

Why didn’t I find this 4 months ago ...
[automerge]1589788714[/automerge]
I used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. The paste Apple put on was indeed very dry when I opened it some days ago. Has been in for 6 years since a gpu replacement in 2014.
 

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Ah, so this myth of baking the GPU really does work..at least to some extent, I'm gonna try too - got nothing to loose.

Did you preheat the oven and then put the card in ?.

Fan oven or non fan oven ?.
Yes, baking the board may get it back to work, but it does not last either...
[automerge]1589790048[/automerge]
Oh, and BTW, I may have missed someone else saying this in this long thread:

There's no need to "drill out" the X-bracket (at least on my K2100M and GTX765M). The bracket is glued onto the graphics card with some black sticky tape under the bracket, nothing else. You can gently heat it up a bit a with hair dryer and then use a plastic spudger to get under it - you can also _gently_ push on the threaded screw posts from the other side to help.

I drilled out the bracket on the K2100M and just removed it on my GTX765M - it's possible I shorted something because the drilling causes a lot of little metal swarfs, I scrubbed really hard with a toothbrush but it made think.
That is exactly the reason why I've been advocating for keeping the X-Clamp on the new board and just use M2 screws the other way through the heatsink nuts (10mm screws for MXM-A heatsink and 15mm screws for MXM-B heatsink)...
 
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I got almost 3 more years out of my Radeon 6970M after baking it 4 times. 23 months the first time, 6 months the second time, 2 months the third time, 3 days the fourth time. After the 5th time it didn't work anymore at all. Now contemplating if I should throw out the iMac, or spending loads of money on eBay for a card that *may* work.
 
I got almost 3 more years out of my Radeon 6970M after baking it 4 times. 23 months the first time, 6 months the second time, 2 months the third time, 3 days the fourth time. After the 5th time it didn't work anymore at all. Now contemplating if I should throw out the iMac, or spending loads of money on eBay for a card that *may* work.

Now that it works again I will be more carefull in ‘running hours’. So only use it when necessary. I really hope the GTX 780 will get full support in a month or two so then I have a spare card. I am ready to buy a new iMac but I prefer to wait another year to obtain a newer generation ...
[automerge]1589794677[/automerge]
Another question: should I also renew the cpu’s thermal past next time I open it? I am sure it is the same dry paste as on the gpu?
 
Now that it works again I will be more carefull in ‘running hours’. So only use it when necessary. I really hope the GTX 780 will get full support in a month or two so then I have a spare card. I am ready to buy a new iMac but I prefer to wait another year to obtain a newer generation ...
[automerge]1589794677[/automerge]
Another question: should I also renew the cpu’s thermal past next time I open it? I am sure it is the same dry paste as on the gpu?
Sure, it would only be better.
 
Thanks for your replies.

Having thought a bit more about it maybe I'm gonna try a hybrid method, as I have a hot air solder station (that came with a adapter just right for large BGA packages). That way I might avoid over heating the rest of the GPU card...

Something along the lines of...
- bit of under heating from a fondue hot plate + thermal probe to keep board temp no more than about 120 deg
- hot air gun fixed to a support (old drill stand maybe) + another thermal probe to watch temp near the GPU
See if I can lash something up this afternoon. Might need some tinkering with an old PCB to get the temp control right….


"Brasures des composants électroniques sur circuits imprimés[modifier | modifier le code]
La réduction drastique du plomb concerne en premier lieu les industries de matériels électroniques. Ils ont été contraint d'utiliser, pour les brasures (incorrectement nommées « soudures ») des composants électroniques, des alliages dépourvus de plomb, matériau qui est utilisé à plus ou moins 40 %, pour environ 60 % d'étain, dans les alliages autorisés les plus utilisés avant l'adoption de cette directive.

Les alliages compatibles avec cette directive, qui ont été utilisés en remplacement, sont simplement des alliages dont le taux d'étain a été augmenté afin de compenser totalement la part de plomb, ces alliages sont donc composés à plus de 95 % d'étain ; ils fondent à une température plus élevée (jusqu'à 220 °C, soit 30 à 35 °C de plus que l'étain-plomb (183 °C)).

En fait, les composants eux-mêmes étaient souvent déjà sans plomb, mais le processus d'assemblage sur les circuits imprimés par exemple continuait à utiliser une brasure en plomb/étain proposant de nombreux avantages, notamment économique mais aussi commercial avec son aspect brillant, l'aspect des brasures composé en quasi-totalité d'étain souffre d'un aspect terne. Mais depuis le milieu des années 2000, un nouvel alliage étain-nickel-germanium permet de retrouver cet aspect brillant que procure les alliages au plomb, même s'il est assez peu répandu (soumis à un brevet), qu'il ait un point de fusion encore plus haut de l'ordre de 10 °C et qu'il soit plus onéreux.

Le changement d'alliage pour les brasures a conduit à devoir modifier ou remplacer certains processus de fabrications, certains matériels et même certains des matériaux des composants pour les adapter à une température de fusion un peu plus élevée. Cette donnée thermique fut la plus difficile à surmonter pour les industriels qui mirent entre cinq et dix ans à maitriser convenablement la fonte de ces alliages dépourvus de plomb, pendant ces années, ils ont été confrontés à des taux de pannes nettement plus importants sur les circuits électroniques qu'ils produisaient. Cela est due au fait que le point de fonte de l'étain sans plomb est très proche du point de « casse » de certains composants électroniques qui a obligé les constructeurs à limiter la température appliquée, ainsi les brasures ont été mal fondu, voire pas fondu et à peine en contact laissant place à l'oxydation avec le temps ce qui empêche le courant de circuler, notamment sur les composants à matrice de billes dont on peut difficilement contrôler avec certitude la réussite ou non de la fonte. Les exemples les plus connus ayant subi ces dommages sont les consoles Playstation 3 de Sony et Xbox 360 de Microsoft ainsi que bon nombre de composants informatiques, en particulier les cartes graphiques.

Le choix des matériaux et des composants utilisés est un des éléments des stratégies d'entreprise. De fait, dans ces entreprises, plusieurs activités sont concernées : achats, R&D, marketing, qualité, formation, responsabilité sociale des entreprises, etc. Il s'agit d'une véritable révolution technologique qui influe fortement sur la qualité et la fiabilité des produits"

Lead free solder doesn't just cause a higher temp issue but also a brittleness issue IMHO.
Add-in a semiconductor like germanium, that's also toxic like lead, ...hmm wonder how well that will work long term.
C'est super, non.

And as for the environment, what about the plastics / resins in the circuit boards / component packages, not to mention fumes from the flux...

Anyway, an envelope arrived in the post this morning with an i7-2600 (40 euro from Leboncoin). As the iMac will be coming apart again out comes the i5-2400.
 
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Ciao ragazzi
Ho trovato una scheda Quadro K3100m su Ebay, potrebbe funzionare con il mio iMac 27 2011?
Ho letto la pagina 1 e buona parte della discussione, spero che qualcuno abbia provato questa carta.
 
I had the same thing happen with a K2100M, I am pretty sure now that the card is not working. You can try running `lspci` (or `lspci -M`) when you're in Linux, you should see a device "VGA compatible controller", or "3D controller" or "video controller" I think. I saw neither and that's why I think my 2100 was toast.
first of al thanks for your fast reply!
i did as you told me, and with command lspci -M im getting this screen(in attached files).
But i don't know what it means
can you tell me whether my card is working/broke?
[automerge]1589804921[/automerge]
i forgot to add the results of lspci
here they are!
as far as i know that should mean, linux is using m integrated graphics from my i7 2600 because the gpu is broken or not detectable?
I don't understand, why it should be broke...
I bought it on eBay and they said, it would be working fine..
Schuld i bu a other one? or is there any way to fix it?
 

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first of al thanks for your fast reply!
i did as you told me, and with command lspci -M im getting this screen(in attached files).
But i don't know what it means
can you tell me whether my card is working/broke?
[automerge]1589804921[/automerge]
i forgot to add the results of lspci
here they are!
as far as i know that should mean, linux is using m integrated graphics from my i7 2600 because the gpu is broken or not detectable?
I don't understand, why it should be broke...
I bought it on eBay and they said, it would be working fine..
Schuld i bu a other one? or is there any way to fix it?

Are you certain the card is seated/installed properly?

It may be worth reattempting installation again before sending it back...
 
Are you certain the card is seated/installed properly?

It may be worth reattempting installation again before sending it back...
im 100 percent sure, the card is even screwed in. i looked it up and proofed it.
is it possible that my linux has not the right drivers and i have to update them?
the picture shows that linux only recognizes the intel integrated graphics
 

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I do see the integrated Intel GPU in lspci screenshot but not the nvidia card unfortunately. Both nv_flash and lspci not seeing the card would indicate that the system does not see it. so either not correctly connected or not working most likely. Buy as I said, my iMac is older.

one more thing to try is to find out where the diagnostic LEDs are for your iMac and see if the one for the GPU comes on. you'll need to search around a bit for that info.
[automerge]1589818410[/automerge]
im 100 percent sure, the card is even screwed in. i looked it up and proofed it.
is it possible that my linux has not the right drivers and i have to update them?
the picture shows that linux only recognizes the intel integrated graphics


I don't 100% understand PCI but AFAIK lspci just reports connected devices (based on ids), that's very basic functionality and built into the kernel. You'd need the drivers to actually use the device but not to see it.
 
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I do see the integrated Intel GPU in lspci screenshot but not the nvidia card unfortunately. Both nv_flash and lspci not seeing the card would indicate that the system does not see it. so either not correctly connected or not working most likely. Buy as I said, my iMac is older.

one more thing to try is to find out where the diagnostic LEDs are for your iMac and see if the one for the GPU comes on. you'll need to search around a bit for that info.
[automerge]1589818410[/automerge]



I don't 100% understand PCI but AFAIK lspci just reports connected devices (based on ids), that's very basic functionality and built into the kernel. You'd need the drivers to actually use the device but not to see it.
Thank you, then ill buy a new one, and send this one back.
hopefully it'll work with the new one XD
 
Now that it works again I will be more carefull in ‘running hours’. So only use it when necessary. I really hope the GTX 780 will get full support in a month or two so then I have a spare card. I am ready to buy a new iMac but I prefer to wait another year to obtain a newer generation ...
As mentioned, I got 23 more months out of the first baking, and I was gaming on it multiple hours a day and converting blu-rays at night, so it was hot 12 hours a day running at full capacity.. I don't think it will make much of a difference what you do with it, honestly.


Another question: should I also renew the cpu’s thermal past next time I open it? I am sure it is the same dry paste as on the gpu?
Yes, you will definitely want to reapply it. When I did it 3 years ago, it was already dry as stone. See this post. And you don't want to bake it anyway, to make it even more dry.
 
I have a 21.5 inch mid 2011 iMac, the 2.7GHz i5-2500S, customized by me with already 1Tb SSD and with 32Gb of ram, running on high sierra

Still wanted to know what is the best GPU and CPU I can put on this machine to play some ocasional games (not with stupid high requirements) and edit better the videos, read a lot but still didnt uderstand if I can have any CPU as long it has the same TDP (65W) and same Socket 1155 / H2 / LGA1155) and it will work, or the best one I can put is the 2600s that apple did? Is it just plug and play?

In the GPU department , what is the best GPU I can put where is basically plug and play Or with minor changes? which ones work? I saw the list on this thread but I am still a little confused, I read that sometimes you need to flash the gpu, what is that? why? how? on which gpus?
I want to put the best gpu I can, in this case, which one is the best with minor changes? Didnt understand if it is a requirement but the gpu needs to come from alienware? does somthing like this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alien...203625?hash=item2cf43d1069:g:wQ8AAOSwPwhdaT1B

does this work? do you have better or other links to the specifics I need?

does really a AMD WX7100 work on my model?

(BTW I dont mind losing the boot screen and brightness control)

Thank you very much, sorry for the long message
🙂
 
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i have a working 770m already patched I want to sell, but you can't use that powerful card in your 21.5 iMac because it can't deliver that much power to the whole system. It will crash.
 
i have a working 770m already patched I want to sell, but you can't use that powerful card in your 21.5 iMac because it can't deliver that much power to the whole system. It will crash.
What is the best I can have without power problems?
because I saw this and he says it works prefectly even after a year:
 
Friends, this is not the baking a GPU thread, it is the replacing a GPU one :)
I have a 21.5 inch mid 2011 iMac, the 2.7GHz i5-2500S, customized by me with already 1Tb SSD and with 32Gb of ram, running on high sierra

Still wanted to know what is the best GPU and CPU I can put on this machine to play some ocasional games (not with stupid high requirements) and edit better the videos, read a lot but still didnt uderstand if I can have any CPU as long it has the same TDP (65W) and same Socket 1155 / H2 / LGA1155) and it will work, or the best one I can put is the 2600s that apple did? Is it just plug and play?

In the GPU department , what is the best GPU I can put where is basically plug and play Or with minor changes? which ones work? I saw the list on this thread but I am still a little confused, I read that sometimes you need to flash the gpu, what is that? why? how? on which gpus?
I want to put the best gpu I can, in this case, which one is the best with minor changes? Didnt understand if it is a requirement but the gpu needs to come from alienware? does somthing like this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alien...203625?hash=item2cf43d1069:g:wQ8AAOSwPwhdaT1B

does this work? do you have better or other links to the specifics I need?

does really a AMD WX7100 work on my model?

(BTW I dont mind losing the boot screen and brightness control)

Thank you very much, sorry for the long message

Please check out the first post on the first page of this thread - this is our more or less up to date guide through this.

No MXM B card will work in your 21.5" model. 2600S will work, but it is not worth the investment. There are no uses cases to have 10% more clock speed and hyper threading is the worst implementation of the known multi threaded chip architectures. I have the 2011 27" with i5-2400@3,1GHz, i5-2500S@2,7GHz, and i7-2600@3,4GHz - you have to pick a CPU benchmark which is measuring exactly the core frequency to see any differences. Real workloads depending on disc access, memory access and CPU are pretty close in most cases. The SSD was the best investment, or more memory? You have already both.
 
hi, i follow the first post guide! and its done, works on imac late 2009, i swap to Nvidia Quadro k2000m(Bios changed whit the CH341A programmer)sorry for my english! Thanks all

Un saludo a forocoches!! (preguntarme si teneis dudas) resucitado un imac 2009
 
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Folks,

After running some more benches with the WX4170 with performance modified bios I found out that the GPU temps are meltdown high (93C + with ODD Fan running full speed and ambient temp of 27-28)

So I opened the iMac up and I realized that those shorts I experienced might have been because of the card not sitting properly with the heatsink... Especially VRAMs are sitting weirdly on the grooves created for the VRAM's on the original AMD, resulting in a gap between the GPU and the copper plate on the heatsink. (see the pics). Now I can put more thermal paste on the GPU, but that is nonsense because the heat will be transferred inefficiently and will stay on the GPU (I suppose).

Now this brings me to my dilemma: to file or not to file the memory grooves?


Heatsink.jpgIMG_0416.jpg
 
Folks,

After running some more benches with the WX4170 with performance modified bios I found out that the GPU temps are meltdown high (93C + with ODD Fan running full speed and ambient temp of 27-28)

So I opened the iMac up and I realized that those shorts I experienced might have been because of the card not sitting properly with the heatsink... Especially VRAMs are sitting weirdly on the grooves created for the VRAM's on the original AMD, resulting in a gap between the GPU and the copper plate on the heatsink. (see the pics). Now I can put more thermal paste on the GPU, but that is nonsense because the heat will be transferred inefficiently and will stay on the GPU (I suppose).

Now this brings me to my dilemma: to file or not to file the memory grooves?


View attachment 916663View attachment 916664
Yes, that's been the issue from day 1 with using non-Apple video cards. And probably a reason to keep the wattage as-low-as-possible, at the risk of ... eventually frying the boards (I hope everyone gets the irony in the latter part, because that's one of the reasons this thread exists in the first place... -- the other reason being access to Metal-capable GPUs).

Wouldn't you rather need to fill the VRAM "void" on the heatsink with thin adhesive copper clads? Below for reference a picture I took from my 27" iMac 2011 HD6970M + heatsink (notice how slightly different mine is from yours):
HD6970M-1GB-iMac-PCB-HEATSINK.jpg
 
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