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Hey,

this thread is about replacing the GPU, not about baking it. So your posts are really off topic here.

Please open another thread about this story. Please understand that we will not and cannot handle and respond all possible problems related to and all upgrades possible with this iMac family. Search around, there are still hundreds of threads about your system type.

The most common threads cover installing and maintaining Mojave, Catalina, Big Sur and Monterey, replacing the drives and BT/WiFi cards and much more.
I'll be getting to a card sooner or later. This is a stage to try out the whole exercise this entails and to see if it exposes things to think about for that eventuality. I'd expect plenty of folks have tried this on their way to the bigger task of replacing the card altogether.

Doing a quick search here for baking, AGAIN there are enough references BACK to this very thread we're in to do the mod to solve the issue, so everyone gets cattle-herded back to this thread if they're asking about GPUs. I know you love to refer back to post 1 and I've been up and down it but frankly, this thread, nearly eight years long and full of distractions and diversions along with the moving targets of new OSes and hardware/software options, is overwhelming. What would be handier would be a wiki per card type, with developments and resources linked to that one piece of hardware.
 
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(also cut and change the wiring of the thermal sensors between the optical drive and the GPU heatsink)
Not sure what do you mean by "cut"? I would not cut the wiring. I always gently peel off the black ODD sensor cover first, then use my finger nails to get underneath (or on the edges) of the sensor PCB to lift from the ODD, which will take some gentle but firm force and a few seconds to separate the sensor from the ODD case. The trick is to lift from one corner first.
 
My Mac I plan to upgrade:
iMac 11,1 (2009 Late) 27-inch, i7 CPU, 16GB memory.
The original Radeon HD 4850/512MB failed years ago, and was replaced with another iMac's Radeon HD 4670/256MB.
The optical drive has been replaced with an optibay enclosure and a 120GB SSD (High Sierra boots from this), the thermal sensor is stuck on this SSD. The original HDD is still in place, but not used for booting, only for data storage.
Unfortunately there are some more errors in your plan, I will not comment all them out in detail because I do not like this time wasting ping pong unless everything has been fixed.

There is already a plan how to work through this, link can be found on post #1.

Since your ATI card is still working you should install OpenCore using OCLP before changing the card. Download the OCLP TUI application and start it, choose:

5. Patcher Settings
9. Advanced Settings, for developers only
1. Set Metal GPU Status
2. Nvidia Kepler
Q
Q
1. Build OpenCore
2. Install OpenCore to USB/internal drive
Quit the app and install the new card.

If you have questions about the OCLP installation please read the online docs.

Why doing this? To avoid the black screen issue and to enable backlight control, you missed this in your reading, too.

About the best macOS with your iMac and this metal capable K1100M:
It is most likely Mojave or Catalina. Next best choice is Big Sur.

About all your other questions:
Feel free to read the posts I made about it. Everything has be described in detail there.
 
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My Mac I plan to upgrade:
iMac 11,1 (2009 Late) 27-inch, i7 CPU, 16GB memory.
The original Radeon HD 4850/512MB failed years ago, and was replaced with another iMac's Radeon HD 4670/256MB.
The optical drive has been replaced with an optibay enclosure and a 120GB SSD (High Sierra boots from this), the thermal sensor is stuck on this SSD. The original HDD is still in place, but not used for booting, only for data storage.

This is what I have prepared for the upgrade:
A.) Expected latest iMac 11,1 firmware version on High Sierra = 63.0.0.0.0
https://eclecticlight.co/2018/10/31/which-efi-firmware-should-your-mac-be-using-version-3/
B.) nVIDIA card: GPU reads N15P-Q1-A2, RAMs read SKhynix.
This should be a K1100M. And the appropriate ROM for this appears to be as shown next.
C.) Nick[D]vB's Quadro_Beta1.2/K1100.rom with an md5 of 30a855b2253eaf8c1cd94b2a6bfb5b16 from this post:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread....1596614/page-152?post=28046843#post-28046843
D.) New 1TB SATA SSD
E.) OWC/MacSales HDD thermal adapter cable.
F.) DIY plastic adapter to hold the 2.5" SSD in place of the original 3.5" HDD.
G.) The_Croupier's Linux USB image from this post:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread....1596614/page-545?post=29723850#post-29723850
USB drive formatted for GPT, FAT32. Mac_GPU_Flash.zip contents extracted to the FAT32 volume.
ROM file C.) placed on FAT32 volume under /flash/QUADRO/K1100.rom, all other .rom files removed.
H.) SHOULD, but NOT YET HAVE: Installer USB of macOS Catalina or later.

This is my action plan:
1.) Download latest High Sierra installer, do a new full install, download and install all available updates, confirm firmware is the latest (repeat all this otherwise).
2.) While on a working system, note down the wired Ethernet MAC address of the iMac, so that later when it starts without a functioning screen, I will still know what IP address it listens on.
3.) Test-boot the Linux USB drive (G.), make sure it loads, and I can connect via ssh. Then power off.
4.) Disassemble the iMac, remove the current Radeon HD card, replace it with the nVIDIA K1100M (also cut and change the wiring of the thermal sensors between the optical drive and the GPU heatsink). Reassemble the iMac, but leave all HDD/SSD disconnected.
5.) Boot the iMac from G.), expect a non-functioning screen. Access via ssh, flash the video-bios, and shut down. Disconnect the Linux USB drive.
6.) Power-on, and reset PRAM by holding Option+Command+P+R (https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063).
7.) Open up the iMac again, connect back any HDD/SSD.
8.) Boot High Sierra, confirm that the new video card is working (sleep/wake, brightness control, thermal).
9.) Install H.), apply necessary modifications, etc.

Questions:
Q1.) Does this look OK? Can you spot anything I concluded incorrectly? Or did I miss something?

Q2.) At step#8 with the iMac loading High Sierra, should the screen, sleep/wake, brightness control, and thermal just work fine? Or do I need to modify something in High Sierra's S/L/E, or use some form of OpenCore to boot my iMac at that point?
This is a late 2009 iMac 27, which is told to be seriously affected by the Black Screen problem, which requires the AppleBacklightFixup or an OpenCore parameter. What is not clear to me is if it applies only when I try to boot Catalina, or if High Sierra is also affected. Also, does this only apply to nVidia cards marked with double plus (++)? Because the K1100M I have is marked with a single plus (+). Some posts refer to this with reference to Metal capable GPUs, but the K1100M is not Metal capable.

Q3.) Will temperature detection and internal fan control correctly work on the K1100M card?
Do I need to cut and change the sensor wires as indicated in step 4.), or the K1100M does not require such changes? I have difficulty understanding the source of this thermal sensor problem. As far as I can see, there is a thermo-diode glued to the GPU heatsink. Why would that stop providing the correct temperature readings when the card on the other side of that heatsink is replaced. And why would another thermo-diode of the same kind (the one glued to the optical drive) would still provide the correct temperature. So why does cutting and swapping those wires solve anything?
How do I confirm the thermal sensor/cooling fan working properly?

Q4.) What macOS version can I upgrade to in step H.)?
Is Big Sur a recommended upgrade now? There was something about Big Sur very badly wearing down the SSD drives, has that been fixed with any of its updates? Is this true to Monterey too?
Are there any other issues with Big Sur or Monterey which would suggest that I am better staying with Catalina? Particularly with my 11,1 iMac hardware and a K1100M GPU.
Q3) Yeah I do realize the temp sensor instructions are a bit confusing. Leave the "thermo-diode" that is already on the GPU heatsink as is. AFAIK the fan speed controller tries to read the GPU die temperature (ie the chip itself), NOT the reading from this heatsink temperature sensor. Which is why with the new cards it doesn't read properly.
Also, I don't think you're supposed to cut any wires. You peel off the temperature sensor from the DVD drive, and stick it to the GPU heatsink beside what is already on the GPU heatsink. The reason this works is because the DVD drive and the dissipation fins on the GPU heatsink are in the path of the same fan - so if you make it think the DVD drive is heating up (by putting the temperature sensor that it reads as DVD drive temperature on the graphics heatsink), it will ramp up the speed of the DVD drive fan, which also cools the GPU heatsink fins. You do lose the temperature monitoring on the DVD drive - but this isn't a biggie as DVD drives don't really heat up much.

Q4) Yeah Big Sur's a recommended upgrade. The thing about wearing SSDs was mainly on Apple's ARM CPU laptops.
Monterey does work, but needs OTA-OS-update-semi-breaking root volume patches for the nVidia Kepler family of GPUs. Also if you have the original WiFi card, those have bugs too. No staying with Catalina doesn't help over Big Sur.
 
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Not sure what do you mean by "cut"? I would not cut the wiring.
In post #1, under Spoiler: Issues with Unsupported PC MXM Card (The Seven Problems), the 7th issue has a pointer to a hardware solution.
7. The loss of temperature sensors on the new GPU. But there is a hardware solution!
In the post that pointer links to, there is a Spoiler: There may be a more simplistic approach: block, which suggests the following.
Just cut off the two cables in the near the sensor and exchange the cable ends with the plugs connecting the same colors simply together (grey to grey and black to black). So you can easily connect the original heat sink sensor to the ODD connector in the logic board and vice versa.
That is what I meant by "cut".
 
In post #1, under Spoiler: Issues with Unsupported PC MXM Card (The Seven Problems), the 7th issue has a pointer to a hardware solution.
7. The loss of temperature sensors on the new GPU. But there is a hardware solution!
In the post that pointer links to, there is a Spoiler: There may be a more simplistic approach: block, which suggests the following.

That is what I meant by "cut".
Thx for pointing out this “more simplistic approach”. But I still believe you should go with the 1st option, which is to move the ODD sensor to the GPU heatsink. This does not involve cutting and joining. More importantly, it’s easily reversible.
 
In post #1, under Spoiler: Issues with Unsupported PC MXM Card (The Seven Problems), the 7th issue has a pointer to a hardware solution.
7. The loss of temperature sensors on the new GPU. But there is a hardware solution!
In the post that pointer links to, there is a Spoiler: There may be a more simplistic approach: block, which suggests the following.

That is what I meant by "cut".
The basic idea is to used the ODD sensor input to control the ODD/GPU fan. Unfortunately not all new vBIOS versions provide the GPU internal temp information.

For unknown reason Apple decided to control the fan using both the GPU internal temp (not the heat sink temp) and the ODD temp to ramp up the fans.

In fact the SMC software relies both on the heat sink sensor (ramps up the fan at 80C) and on the ODD sensor (55C).
This logic is really broken since electronics hates heat. Using the ODD sensor on the sink by relocating ramps up the ODD fan starting at 55C and offers much better heat management of the GPU.

(The trick is to feed temp data into the ODD sensor from the GPU - so one can just replace the ODD sensor or try to cross over the cables (I never tried this myself)).

As @TigerA already said: Moving the ODD sensor is the most easy and proven to fully work method.
 
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BOOT SCREEN MOD - iMac 27" (2009) + AMD W6170M

Dear vinaypundith,​

After reading your BOOT Screen MOD I was enthusiastic from reading !

I'm building a temporary cable bridge for 3.3V, exchange original HD4850
with BIOS-patched and modified W6170M (desolder R220 from video
card to prevent SMBus conflict with CPU thermal sensor)
and install
all.

BootScreen MOD.jpg


After putting all together with temporary flickering display (I think from
Quick Snap Connector everything I wish runs now:

- BOOT Screen (alternative OCLP) because of High Sierra and Big Sur on
two partitions of the SSD.
- of course no hardware brightness (Brightness Slider works 😁) but
native Brightness Control in System works.
- I can switch from Big Sur to High Sierra (and now back from HS to BS)
on Boot Screen.
- perhaps everybody can use a XEON CPU now (no Integrated Graphics) !

The next thing I want to install was a timer relais module 0-60sec to
switch boot screen from Bridge to internal 3.3V from Logic Board to become
native brightness control back after boot...

Timer relay module.jpeg


If you have an SSD (uses only 5V) you can cut the line there to get 12V for
the timer relais. On relais switch you go into NC with 3.3V from Logic Board ,
into COMMON with 3.3V line from inverter and into NO with the additional
soldered 3.3V line from power supply...


NC = Normally closed
Common = Middle
NO = Normally Open

🏎️ "You have max. 60 seconds to pick something from the BOOT SCREEN !"

👍👍👍 Great Job !!! 👍👍👍
 
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BOOT SCREEN MOD - iMac 27" (2009) + AMD W6170M


After reading your BOOT Screen MOD I was enthusiastic from reading !

I'm building a temporary cable bridge for 3.3V, exchange original HD4850
with BIOS-patched and modified W6170M (desolder R220 from video card
to prevent SMBus conflict with CPU thermal sensor) and install all.

View attachment 1937782

After putting all together with temporary flickering display (I think from
Quick Snap Connector everything I wish runs now:

- BOOT Screen (alternative OCLP) because of High Sierra and Big Sur on
two partitions of the SSD.
- of course no hardware brightness (Brightness Slider works ?) but
native Brightness Control in System works.
- I can switch from Big Sur to High Sierra (and now back from HS to BS)
on Boot Screen.
- perhaps everybody can use a XEON CPU now (no Integrated Graphics) !

The next thing I want to install was a timer relais module 0-60sec to
switch boot screen from Bridge to internal 3.3V from Logic Board to become
native brightness control back after boot...

View attachment 1937788

If you have an SSD (uses only 5V) you can cut the line there to get 12V for
the timer relais. On relais switch you go into NC with 3.3V from Logic Board ,
into COMMON with 3.3V line from inverter and into NO with the additional
soldered line from power supply...


?️ "You have 60 seconds to pick something from the BOOT SCREEN !"

??? Great Job !!! ???
Hi!

Possibly I missed one of your posts, so desoldering R220 will fix the SMBUS problem? This is a nice finding :) Thanks a lot!

Can you explain why to did this hot wire mod using the GOP vBIOS?

Using the GOP vBIOS you already had the OCLP boot screen after OpenCore has been booted. On this OC boot picker you do not have any brightness control, at least I never was aware of it.

You only prove that one can switch on the internal screen manually if the GOP vBIOS is supported by OpenCore.

Please try this mod with the original vBIOS and without booting OpenCore, you will possibly face the unpleasent truth of a black screen.

Have a nice Sunday! Great to see that this GCN story is getting speed!
 
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Hi!

Possibly I missed one of your posts, so desoldering R220 will fix the SMBUS problem? This is a nice finding :) Thanks a lot!

Can you explain why to did this hot wire mod using the GOP vBIOS?

Using the GOP vBIOS you already had the OCLP boot screen comping up after OpenCore has been booted. On this OC boot picker you do not have any brightness control, at least I never was aware of it.

You only prove that one can switch on the internal screen manually if the GOP vBIOS is supported by OpenCore.

Please try this mod with the original vBIOS and without booting OpenCore, you will possibly face the unpleasent truth of a black screen.

Have a nice Sunday! Great to see that this GCN story is getting speed!

The desoldering of R220 at the W6170M have (I believe) something to do with SMBus conflicts
on iMacs with CPU 1156 Socket, as you described you only have Sleep/Wake issue on iMac 2011
with CPU Socket 1155 (and no SMBus problems ?) - I don't have tested it yet...

I haven't a boot screen with GOP BIOS & OCLP on iMac 2009, the panel switch on just before
Login screen. That can be if you have 32Bit High Sierra and 64Bit Big Sur installed, installing
OCLP on same partition for both...

To test it all, somebody must have iMac A1312 from 2009, 2010 an 2011 to see the differences
(all machines from 11.1 to 12.2).

If I got a black screen on every card which is supported by macOS I'm not sure ;) because I try
in the past unpatched Video cards like GTX670M with original PC BIOS, but perhaps this MOD opens
a wider range of useable video cards - without putting start attributes on OC or OCLP...
 
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The desoldering of R220 at the W6170M have (I believe) something to do with SMBus conflicts
on iMacs with CPU 1156 Socket, as you described you only have Sleep/Wake issue on iMac 2011
with Socket 1155 (and no SMBus problems ?) - I don't have tested it yet...

I haven't a boot screen with GOP BIOS & OCLP on iMac 2009, the panel switch on just before
Login screen. That can be if you have 32Bit High Sierra and 64Bit Big Sur installed, installing OCLP
on same partition for both, but I don't know yet.

To test it all, somebody must have iMac A1312 from 2009, 2010 an 2011 to see the differences
(all machines from 11.1 to 12.2).

If I got a black screen on every card which is supported by macOS I'm not sure ;) because I try
in the past unpatched Video cards like GTX670M with original PC BIOS, but perhaps this MOD opens
a wider range of useable video cards - without putting start attributes on OC or OCLP...
The goal of this wire mod is quite different:

Normal PC vBIOS (like the GOP vBIOS) do not provide the EFI boot picker. It is not invisible, it is simply not there. The EFI boot picker is a programm stored in the old ATI vBIOS as part of the vBIOS or the NVIDIA cards flashed with special EFI vBIOS versions (later the EFI programm was stored in the Macs firmware).

When @Nick [D]vB came up with AMD vBIOS versions all where PC GOP versions not having an EFI part and so not showing or offering the EFI boot picker. But during this time OpenCore became ready to show an OC boot picker with a GOP vBIOS. So the need of an EFI boot picker was not really there.

The next generation called EG mod vBIOS offered a EFI boot picker with firmware mod on an external screen. Unfortunately we still do not know how to mod this EG vBIOS to switch on the backlight on boot. Here our hardware mod comes into play. For some EG vBIOS version the hot wire mod enables backlight on boot and shows the EFI boot picker on the internal screen when no external screen has been connected.

Conclusion:
1. There is no gain in using the hard wird mod with any GOP vBIOS!
2. You can make some NVIDIA cards working on an iMac with OpenCore and using a GOP vBIOS. I did exactly this early on in Summer 2019 using a K3100M.
3. You can add a GOP part to every AMD or NVIDA vBIOS using a tool called GOPupdater. You will find it :)
 
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Dear Ausdauersportler,

thank you for your Explanation 👍 - however, I have to admit that I am not the great software
comprehender. It's perhaps a solution for people who have not the software skills, but craftmanship
hands to solve a backlight problem on boot after video card exchange - it's a simple solution for
some video cards and for practical persons like me ;) ...
 
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Dear Ausdauersportler,

thank you for your Explanation 👍 - however, I have to admit that I am not the great software
comprehender. It's perhaps a solution for people who have not the software skills, but craftmanship
hands to solve a backlight problem on boot after video card exchange - it's a simple solution for
some video cards and for practical persons like me ;) ...
If you still own the GTX670M please send the vBIOS over, I will add a GOP part. Using OC it should offer a boot screen.
But it will not work with macOS later than High Sierra (no Fermi GPU support) and will probably need the NVIDIA webdrivers.
 

BOOT SCREEN MOD - iMac 27" (2009) + AMD W6170M

Dear vinaypundith,​

After reading your BOOT Screen MOD I was enthusiastic from reading !

I'm building a temporary cable bridge for 3.3V, exchange original HD4850
with BIOS-patched and modified W6170M (desolder R220 from video card
to prevent SMBus conflict with CPU thermal sensor) and install all.

View attachment 1937782

After putting all together with temporary flickering display (I think from
Quick Snap Connector everything I wish runs now:

- BOOT Screen (alternative OCLP) because of High Sierra and Big Sur on
two partitions of the SSD.
- of course no hardware brightness (Brightness Slider works 😁) but
native Brightness Control in System works.
- I can switch from Big Sur to High Sierra (and now back from HS to BS)
on Boot Screen.
- perhaps everybody can use a XEON CPU now (no Integrated Graphics) !

The next thing I want to install was a timer relais module 0-60sec to
switch boot screen from Bridge to internal 3.3V from Logic Board to become
native brightness control back after boot...

View attachment 1937788

If you have an SSD (uses only 5V) you can cut the line there to get 12V for
the timer relais. On relais switch you go into NC with 3.3V from Logic Board ,
into COMMON with 3.3V line from inverter and into NO with the additional
soldered 3.3V line from power supply...


🏎️ "You have max. 60 seconds to pick something from the BOOT SCREEN !"

👍👍👍 Great Job !!! 👍👍👍
Wait are you using a GOP VBIOS? If so, can you please confirm that there is actually a difference in the screen status during boot with and without the wire mod?
Like Ausdauersportler said, when I did the wire mod, it was with a card with an "EG" VBIOS that was blindly generating a boot screen but not showing it, while the GOP VBIOS doesn't generate it at all.
(Or is the only boot screen you're seeing the opencore one?)

As for your relay idea, it does sound interesting - but there's one issue (for Windows users): Windows (on my Polaris card at least) doesn't switch on the internal display at all, even after booting up. I have to keep my switch in the "force ON" position for it to display anything......
 
One could maybe put a relay that switches the supply to the backlight power line from the steady 3.3V source to the line from the logic board as soon as the line from the board gets power. Although you might lose display-turning-off-when-idle functionality
 
If you still own the GTX670M please send the vBIOS over, I will add a GOP part. Using OC it should offer a boot screen.
But it will not work with macOS later than High Sierra (no Fermi GPU support) and will probably need the NVIDIA webdrivers.

Thanks, but the GTX670 was sold :)

Attn: I have here somewhere a Samsung GTX 675M Video Card
without BIOS Chip (!) which was sold to me as GTX765M 😬
 
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Wait are you using a GOP VBIOS? If so, can you please confirm that there is actually a difference in the screen status during boot with and without the wire mod?
Like Ausdauersportler said, when I did the wire mod, it was with a card with an "EG" VBIOS that was blindly generating a boot screen but not showing it, while the GOP VBIOS doesn't generate it at all.
(Or is the only boot screen you're seeing the opencore one?)

As for your relay idea, it does sound interesting - but there's one issue (for Windows users): Windows (on my Polaris card at least) doesn't switch on the internal display at all, even after booting up. I have to keep my switch in the "force ON" position for it to display anything......

Hello, I've try it but the only boot picker which is viewable comes from OCLP, but if
I deactivate the internal SSD and after CMD-ALT-P-R reset I can boot a High Sierra
8GB Boot Stick and come into installer - now I try to boot with an old macOS DVD
with almost deactivated SSD. USB Boot Stick and DVD with separate Boot tryout,
waiting for a screen, but of course without OCLP - and even no native boot picker...

...the switch "Force on" you don't need anymore, if you use a relay switch and
your WIN boots in 60 sec !

And after that you switch it to internal 3.3V from LogicBoard ?
Same as me at macOS...

Attn. the W6170M have only a GOP BIOS version ;)
Attn: Loading a Big Sur Software Update now on iMac 2009 😄
 
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Apple decided to control the fan using both the GPU internal temp (not the heat sink temp) and the ODD temp to ramp up the fans.
This explains very well the piece I did not understand about the GPU thermal/fan control issue. Now it all makes perfect sense.
This also clarifies that there is not much point in connecting the ODD thermo-diode to the cut wires of the GPU thermo sensor. The point is to feed the GPU's raising temperature info to the ODD sensor (either by rewiring, or more easily by relocating the diode over to the other one) as that will trigger the increase in fan speed.
 
Hello, I've try it but the only boot picker which is viewable comes from OCLP, but if
I deactivate the internal SSD and after CMD-ALT-P-R reset I can boot a High Sierra
8GB Boot Stick and come into installer - now I try to boot with an old macOS DVD
with almost deactivated SSD. USB Boot Stick and DVD with separate Boot tryout,
waiting for a screen, but of course without OCLP - and even no native boot picker...

...the switch "Force on" you don't need anymore, if you use a relay switch and
your WIN boots in 60 sec !

And after that you switch it to internal 3.3V from LogicBoard ?
Same as me at macOS...

Attn. the W6170M have only a GOP BIOS version ;)
Attn: Loading a Big Sur Software Update now on iMac 2009 😄
I don't see how the wire mod would affect the OpenCore boot screen? Does it?
 
Got the iMac 2011 21.5, with the WX4130 + Monterey 12.1 OCLP. It seems that it produces a kernel panic (cpu 2, IOServicePM.cpp) whenever I get back after some time to the iMac. I googled this, and it seems too be related to sleep function, so I turned it off and it doesn't seems to 'panic' anymore.

Is it a known issue that this combination can't sleep? On my 27 inch version it doesn't produce this problem.
 
Got the iMac 2011 21.5, with the WX4130 + Monterey 12.1 OCLP. It seems that it produces a kernel panic (cpu 2, IOServicePM.cpp) whenever I get back after some time to the iMac. I googled this, and it seems too be related to sleep function, so I turned it off and it doesn't seems to 'panic' anymore.

Is it a known issue that this combination can't sleep? On my 27 inch version it doesn't produce this problem.
Please add a signature to your account, which 27 iMac you are writing about?

You need to run OCLP and generate OpenCore onto each particular system, you cannot move configs over from different systems.

The sleep/wake issue with iMac12,x is related to the iGPU which is disabled by OCLP on purpose to prevent it.
 
Please add a signature to your account, which 27 iMac you are writing about?

You need to run OCLP and generate OpenCore onto each particular system, you cannot move configs over from different systems.

The sleep/wake issue with iMac12,x is related to the iGPU which is disabled by OCLP on purpose to prevent it.
iMac 2011, 21.5 & 27, WX4130, OCLP Monterey 12.1 ('exact' same config, only screen size differences). Both installed individually, not moving/copying etc from each system. Did the postinstall patch after I booted up Monterey without an issue.

It does seem the iGPU is disabled (see attached pictures). Are you saying that sleep should work with this hardware + macOS 12.1 config?

p.s. sorry don't like to put this in "my" signature, since I don't want this to pop up every thread I visit. Or is this thread specific? Also, these are not 'mine', helping my family out with these configs.
 

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I don't see how the wire mod would affect the OpenCore boot screen? Does it?

Hmm, have you read my previous posts ? I wrote, that I only see the screen
at Login, not before. Patch OCLP for iMac 11.1 with High Sierra & Big Sur on
separate partitions, the OCLP must show Boot Picker after SSD patch - but
nothing (with or without ALT key on startup). 👋
 
iMac 2011, 21.5 & 27, WX4130, OCLP Monterey 12.1 ('exact' same config, only screen size differences). Both installed individually, not moving/copying etc from each system. Did the postinstall patch after I booted up Monterey without an issue.

It does seem the iGPU is disabled (see attached pictures). Are you saying that sleep should work with this hardware + macOS 12.1 config?

p.s. sorry don't like to put this in "my" signature, since I don't want this to pop up every thread I visit. Or is this thread specific? Also, these are not 'mine', helping my family out with these configs.
If you want me to answer please provide all necessary information within the request. The signature is the most easy way to do this. It is in fact a matter of .... do you know Kant?

The iGPU can cause sleep/wake issues if not disabled or patched. Since we could not successfully patch it in all cases on iMac12,x and it is of no use with AMD GPU we decided to disable it.

If your iMac12,1 still has a sleep/wake issue there will be most likely another hardware problem. The GPU is not known to cause such a behavior. Memory?
 
Hmm, have you read my previous posts ? I wrote, that I only see the screen
at Login, not before. Patch OCLP for iMac 11.1 with High Sierra & Big Sur on
separate partitions, the OCLP must show Boot Picker after SSD patch - but
nothing (with or without ALT key on startup). 👋
Only graphics cards with an EFI vBIOS respond to the alt/option key on boot (while the screen is still black). GOP vBIOS have no EFI part and therefor do not provide any EFI functionality....

OpenCore provides some other key handling when the picker has been disabled.
 
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