Hola Andrés, estoy interesado en tu actualización, ya que estoy en la misma. No leí que equipo tenés, en mi caso es sobre una iMac 27" finales de 2014. Si ya lo hiciste, contanos cómo te fue. Un saludo
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A list of successful iMac 27" (2012-2019) SSD upgrades
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Buenos días, actualicé mi iMac de finales de 2014 pero no detectó el Nvme. Dejo aquí el detalle de como estaba y como quedo con la incidencia
ORIGINAL: intel i5 4690 - HDD + PCI (Fusion drive) 16 gb ram-
UPGRADE : intel i7 4790K - SSD Sata 3 Samsung 860 Evo 500gb + PCI Samsung 980 Pro - 32GB de RAM
PROBLEMA : No reconoce el NVME. Estoy usando la iMac con el SO instalado en el sata ahora. El trabajo lo hizo un técnico de confianza que no se dedica a Apple. Lo que supongo: que el adaptador posiblemente no sea el correcto (es el corto de color verde, que si bien encastra correctamente, a lo mejor no es el ideal). La otra posibilidad que se me ocurre es que no se le dio formato APFS antes de insertarlo en el puerto. No me he animado a desarmar la iMac desde entonces hasta no saber que puedo hacer para resolverlo. He leído aquí que tuvo éxito instalando un 980 Evo en una finales de 2013 y me gustaría saber si pueden ayudarme. Desde ya agradecido. Un saludo
INGLES:
Good morning, I updated my iMac from late 2014 but it does not detect the PCI Nvme. I leave here the detail of how it was and how it turned out:
ORIGINAL: intel i5 4690 - HDD + PCI (Fusion drive) 16 gb ram-
UPGRADE : intel i7 4790K - Sata 3 SSD Samsung 860 Evo 500gb + PCI Samsung 980 Pro 500gb - 32GB RAM
PROBLEM : Does not recognize the NVME. I am using the iMac with the OS installed on the sata now. The work was done by a trusted technician who is not dedicated to Apple. What I suppose: that the adapter is possibly not the correct one (it is the short green one, which, although it fits correctly, may not be the ideal one). The only other possibility I can think of is that it was not APFS formatted before it was inserted into the port. I haven't bothered to take apart the iMac since then until I know what I can do to fix it. I have read here that you had success installing a samsung 980 evo in a late 2013 and would like to know if you can help me. Thanks in advance. Regards
Hello! Last year i got imac 27 late 2013 and upgraded cpu and hard drive to blade - intel 660p nvme. Everything works - no issues. Im using Big Sur (patched sur).
This year i got imac 27 5k late 2015. I will upgrade cpu to i7, but did not find anyone trying crucial p5 nvme? Everyone seems to be using samaung 970 evo plus. But i saw some posts with possible slow boot time issues.
What about crucial p1 or p2?
This year i got imac 27 5k late 2015. I will upgrade cpu to i7, but did not find anyone trying crucial p5 nvme? Everyone seems to be using samaung 970 evo plus. But i saw some posts with possible slow boot time issues.
What about crucial p1 or p2?
Update to latest firmware before upgrading. Also, use e.g. a WD SN 720 as drive to avoid Samsung related problems. Crucial P1 or P2 in my view not advisable due to low endurance.
Good luck!
Magnus
Successfully completed upgrade of HDD to SSD: a 27" 2014 5k with a Crucial MX500 SSD:
Device: 2014 - 15,1 (3.5Ghz i5, 3TB FusionDrive)
Blade upgrade: None - kept original 128GB blade
HDD upgrade: 3 TB SATA HDD -> Crucial MX500 2TB SSD
Speed test: Blade: ~500 MB/s read & write
OS: Big Sur 11.6.5
Temperature sensor: none
Location: TX, USA
Adapter: Fenlink 2.5" to 3.5" Internal SSD Hard Drive SATA Drive Converter
SSD Heatsink: N/A
Issues after fresh OS install: None
Device: 2014 - 15,1 (3.5Ghz i5, 3TB FusionDrive)
Blade upgrade: None - kept original 128GB blade
HDD upgrade: 3 TB SATA HDD -> Crucial MX500 2TB SSD
Speed test: Blade: ~500 MB/s read & write
OS: Big Sur 11.6.5
Temperature sensor: none
Location: TX, USA
Adapter: Fenlink 2.5" to 3.5" Internal SSD Hard Drive SATA Drive Converter
SSD Heatsink: N/A
Issues after fresh OS install: None
What do you mean update to latest firmware? Firmware of nvme or firmware as in OS/bios?
That WD SN 720 - really old nvme? Cant find it anywhere…
Late 2013 here. I did the mod but my power cable broke off right inside the chassis where it is inaccessible near the button! Since there are just two connectors I have tried routing these outside the chassis and shorting these together to start the iMac but it will not start. Nothing at all no bong or anything. Any thoughts please guys?
Try this
SOLVED: Power button removal and replacement - iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638
Ouch! The button housing is glued into the back case. You’ll need to take the HDD, power supply & left speaker so you can gain access to the button from the back side. You’ll need to use a heat gun to soften the glue which holds the housing hopefully you can get to the needed points to splice...
www.ifixit.com
In disk utility, make sure you have the option “show all devices” ticked. Without this ticked, a bare drive won’t be visible. If you still can’t see NVME, then it could just be that the adapter hasn’t been inserted fully. It almost clicks into place when you install it but that does mean a complete teardown again, I’m afraid.
Due to the world-wide chip shortage, Samsung has switched from using the Phoenix controller to an Elpis controller.
Under most light usage workloads, users never really notice the lower performance, but it is a massive performance hit after the onboard write cache is saturated. The public was not informed of this so there are 2 versions of the 970 Evo Plus available to consumers. The only way to know is to look at the controller chip itself:
Other companies making changes similar to this because of the chip shortage debacle include: Western Digital and Crucial. They however chose to keep their controller chips the same, and instead dropped TLC NANDs in favour of the cheaper QLC NANDs which have lower endurance life. Thankfully, Samsung decided to keep TLC in their NANDs, even with the inferior controllers.
Phoenix SSDs: MZVLB1T0HBLR
Elpis SSDs: MZVL21T0HBLU
I've noticed differences already is some of you reporting speeds here, with the exact same product. This could be part of the explanation.
Cheers.
Under most light usage workloads, users never really notice the lower performance, but it is a massive performance hit after the onboard write cache is saturated. The public was not informed of this so there are 2 versions of the 970 Evo Plus available to consumers. The only way to know is to look at the controller chip itself:
Other companies making changes similar to this because of the chip shortage debacle include: Western Digital and Crucial. They however chose to keep their controller chips the same, and instead dropped TLC NANDs in favour of the cheaper QLC NANDs which have lower endurance life. Thankfully, Samsung decided to keep TLC in their NANDs, even with the inferior controllers.
Phoenix SSDs: MZVLB1T0HBLR
Elpis SSDs: MZVL21T0HBLU
I've noticed differences already is some of you reporting speeds here, with the exact same product. This could be part of the explanation.
Cheers.
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I ended up buying an original Apple SSD, just to prevent any further issues. The Samsung 970 EVO Plus worked like a charm for the first 2 months, then the disk got scrambled and trimming started to slow up boot times, which ruined the fun for me
In the end the trim took about 50 seconds, making the total boot time about 1,5 minutes.I bought a SSPolaris 512GB model, like new condition for €100 ex shipping on eBay. This is around the price of the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, so I hope I can sell it for a good price and (almost) make no loss on this transfer. 512GB turns out to be enough for me anyway. I have a NAS which stores all my data.
It feels so good to boot again within 30 seconds
This blade came from a 2019 iMac. Looks like it is a bit faster than the one in my stock mid 2017 model.
2017:
So be warned! DONT buy a SAMSUNG for your blade upgrade
Device: 2019 iMac 19.1 , 27" 5K i5 3.0 , 1 TB Fusion Drive
Blade upgrade: 32gb fusion ssd > 1 TB WD550
HDD upgrade: 1 TB > 4 TB Samsung 870 QVO
Speed test: SSD see below
OS: Big Sur 11.6.5
Temperature sensor: none
Location: NJ, USA
Adapter: Long Sintech
SSD Heatsink: N/A
Issues after fresh OS install: None ... Started on Catalina , no problems moving to Big Sur + updates
This was done early last September and has been running well since . Getting rid of the Fusion drive and adding memory transformed the machine . No particular problems with the install . The QVO was mounted in a Newer Tech AdaptaDrive ; simply to mount the drive via the existing mount points for the factory 3.5" drive . I didn't want to velcro , or double sided tape the QVO to the back of the case and have the thing come loose a year or so down the road. Memory was raised to 32 GB.,also .
Blade upgrade: 32gb fusion ssd > 1 TB WD550
HDD upgrade: 1 TB > 4 TB Samsung 870 QVO
Speed test: SSD see below
OS: Big Sur 11.6.5
Temperature sensor: none
Location: NJ, USA
Adapter: Long Sintech
SSD Heatsink: N/A
Issues after fresh OS install: None ... Started on Catalina , no problems moving to Big Sur + updates
This was done early last September and has been running well since . Getting rid of the Fusion drive and adding memory transformed the machine . No particular problems with the install . The QVO was mounted in a Newer Tech AdaptaDrive ; simply to mount the drive via the existing mount points for the factory 3.5" drive . I didn't want to velcro , or double sided tape the QVO to the back of the case and have the thing come loose a year or so down the road. Memory was raised to 32 GB.,also .
Hi everyone! Please, can you help me with my updates for my iMac 27 Late 2012
Device: Late 2012 27inch iMac13,2 - (3.4Ghz i7, 1TB Fusion, 16GB RAM)
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680MX 2GB
HDD: APPLE HDD ST3000DM001 (3 TB)
BLADE: APPLE SSD SM128E (121.33 GB)
AirPort Card: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0
OS: Catalina 10.15.7
My problems started two years ago. Some noize and clicks from inside, slow speed, hangs, etc... As I understood, this is a problem with HDD memory or blade SDD.
I want to use a 4TB SSD because I used to work with many video files, and I need space and high speed.
I'd like to have Western Digital 4TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s. But my knowledge about hard drives is described in this topic is not enough to understand what I need and what configurations.
Please, can you help me find out what I should change? For example, should I change only the BLADE memory or BLADE with HDD memory according to my requests for a WD 4TB SSD? And what types of adapter I have to buy? Also, I can't understand why people are changing AirPort Card? Any advice for me to improve hardware here and for what reason?
I appreciate any help. Thanks
Device: Late 2012 27inch iMac13,2 - (3.4Ghz i7, 1TB Fusion, 16GB RAM)
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680MX 2GB
HDD: APPLE HDD ST3000DM001 (3 TB)
BLADE: APPLE SSD SM128E (121.33 GB)
AirPort Card: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0
OS: Catalina 10.15.7
My problems started two years ago. Some noize and clicks from inside, slow speed, hangs, etc... As I understood, this is a problem with HDD memory or blade SDD.
I want to use a 4TB SSD because I used to work with many video files, and I need space and high speed.
I'd like to have Western Digital 4TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s. But my knowledge about hard drives is described in this topic is not enough to understand what I need and what configurations.
Please, can you help me find out what I should change? For example, should I change only the BLADE memory or BLADE with HDD memory according to my requests for a WD 4TB SSD? And what types of adapter I have to buy? Also, I can't understand why people are changing AirPort Card? Any advice for me to improve hardware here and for what reason?
I appreciate any help. Thanks
If I was you, I would pick a decent 4TB SATA drive and use that for everything. The blade in the 2012 is also SATA so doesn't offer any speed benefits over a normal (2.5") SATA drive. The 128GB blade has likely had a lot of use over the years so would be best placed to serve as a small scratch disk or even a good place to run a Windows 10 boot camp install, if that's your thing.
Tip: DriveDX will give you a clear picture of the condition of both the blade and your spinning drive.
I'd suggest also what Amsterdamned said ( #942 ). Check with DriveDx about the status of your existing drives, from your description it looks like the 3 TB HDD has reached end of life. Your WD SSD looks like a 2.5" SATA SSD and should be good to go.
If the internal Apple 128 GB SSD is still good (-> Drive DX!) then I'd open the iMac carefully (see https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2546+Hard+Drive+Replacement/15796), take out the HDD, simply replace it with the WD SSD and leave the Apple blade whee it is. A few notes:
- You would need a 3.5" -> 2.5" adapter to mount it into the place of the 3 TB HDD. This one is very good and cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173604597641?hash=item286ba3ef89:g:rKUAAOSw14xWL3if
- You won't need the special sensor cable - the iMac can read the SSD temperature nicely without. Just plug the SSD into the HDD cable and you're good!
- Re-assemble the iMac but use only (sufficient) sticky tape to fit the screen temporarily, install macOS and test the machine for some time, only once you are sure everything runs fine use the dedicated adhesive strips to close the iMac properly.
This way you don't have to disassemble the entire iMac. Good luck!
Magnus
Is this sleep/hibernation problem with the SN750 just an issue with older iMacs, like the 2015, or would it also apply to the 2019 model? I ask because last month @mbosse posted this saying you'd installed an SN750 into a 2019 iMac, and had no issues. Is that still the case?
Also, could you please provide links to the "latest model" of the adapter you mention (I can't tell what's latest from the AZ descriptions), and the heat sink (couldn't find it on AZ)?
Thank you so much for your help. Now I'm convenient with what I need.
So, I'm going to buy
- WD Blue™ SATA SSD 2.5"/7mm cased 4tb
- DSLRKIT 2.5" SSD to 3.5" SATA Hard Disk Drive HDD Adapter Caddy Tray CAGE Hot Swap Plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3QFKNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- and tools by https://www.ifixit.com/
Here are my screenshots about my HDD and BLADE using DriveDX. And
I'll leave my blade SSD for running a Windows 10 boot camp.
Blessing to everyone!
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The only issue I had was with sleep/hibernation initially, but that seems to have been addressed in a MacOS update that updated the iMac system firmware. I have had zero issues with the SN750 in my 2015 iMac since July 2020.
Thanks. Any thoughts about the WD SN850 vs. the SN750? I could go Samsung, but read about issues with them (see below; might be due to the recent change in controller mentioned by @nikey22 ), so I thought the WD would be safer.
The PCIe 4.0 SN850 and SN770 are faster than the SN750 (which is PCIe 3.0), about the same price, and backwards-compatible with PCIe 3.0. The 2019 iMac is 4 x PCIe 3.0, and normally one would think there would be no benefit to installing a PCIe 4.0 SSD into a PCIe 3.0 bus, but it's my understanding that what limits SSD speeds with PCIe 3.0 isn't the bus, but rather the SSD's themselves—they're far from saturating PCIe 3.0 connection speeds (4000 MB/s for 4 x PCIe 3.0), especially for 4k random reads and writes. [Even the fastest PCIe 4.0 SSD's are typically >200 MB/s and >100 MB/s for 4k random reads and writes, respectively; see https://www.anandtech.com/show/16458/2021-ssd-benchmark-suite/4.] This at least suggests that a PCIe 4.0 SSD would give better performance even with a PCIe 3.0 bus. But I'm speculating—I haven't seen the data.
I did a search of this thread, and found successful installs of both the SN750 and the SN850.
I ended up buying an original Apple SSD, just to prevent any further issues. The Samsung 970 EVO Plus worked like a charm for the first 2 months, then the disk got scrambled and trimming started to slow up boot times, which ruined the fun for me
I bought a SSPolaris 512GB model, like new condition for €100 ex shipping on eBay. This is around the price of the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, so I hope I can sell it for a good price and (almost) make no loss on this transfer. 512GB turns out to be enough for me anyway. I have a NAS which stores all my data.
It feels so good to boot again within 30 seconds
This blade came from a 2019 iMac. Looks like it is a bit faster than the one in my stock mid 2017 model.
View attachment 1999125
2017:
View attachment 1999127
So be warned! DONT buy a SAMSUNG for your blade upgrade
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For WD, I thought the switch from TLC to QLC was only done with their SN550 Blue (see: https://www.extremetech.com/computi...ncy-will-replace-qlc-sn550-for-unhappy-buyers ). Are they doing it for their SSD's generally, including the Black models?
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I can't give a recommendation myself, but I can tell you that the SN750 was WD's last-generation (PCIe 3.0) high-end Black SSD, and that the SN750 SE is their current-generation PCIe 4.0 entry-level Black SSD.
Yeah, the naming is misleading (deliberately so, I suspect). The fact that it's named "SN750 SE", and that it's now 4.0, makes it sound like it's this generation's successor to the SN750. But it's not. That would be the SN850.
Western Digital Introduces WD Black SN750 SE SSD: Entry-Level PCIe Gen4
Thank you so much for your help. Now I'm convenient with what I need.
So, I'm going to buy
- WD Blue
SATA SSD 2.5"/7mm cased 4tb
- DSLRKIT 2.5" SSD to 3.5" SATA Hard Disk Drive HDD Adapter Caddy Tray CAGE Hot Swap Plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3QFKNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- and tools by https://www.ifixit.com/
Here are my screenshots about my HDD and BLADE using DriveDX. And
I'll leave my blade SSD for running a Windows 10 boot camp.
Blessing to everyone!
SATA SSD 2.5"/7mm cased 4tbAs expected, your hard drive is not usable anymore for a system - the many uncorrectable error likely cause your problems.
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