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Battery wear on new iPad 2018
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Sure it does protects battery from deep discharge which can kill battery instantly but it definitely is still harmful to run battery until device shuts down.
I already commented you that. I get somewhat less than from 2017 model.
You are missing my point totally. It is not about if you get barely 10 hours of usage time or not, it is about why battery does not give you anymore full 8827 mAh capacity after few days usage!
How much hours you get is really not usable measurement, since it depends on so much how you use the device and what is display brightness and so on. For example my Apple Watch easily runs 2-3 days on single charge while apple says 18 hours.
You don't see what is wrong with that statement? Then why some units show battery health 100% wear 0%, and some don't? Well my understanding is that batteries are not equal condition between those units giving different results. I't not sure what you are trying to convince it is.
If you think so, I respect you views. So then, please just stop reading and commenting this thread. It is as simple as that.
Neither I'm a guy who runs to the doctor the same day when he catch a cold.
Anyway, let's not get personal and if there is nothing to contribute to the thread topic then no reason to post anything.
The same goes for you what I said above.
I'm just not a guy who would accept new car dented and scratched and just pay the full price. This is no more complicated than that.
You need to understand that Battery Life does not give an accurate reading of battery charge capacity. It can't - it hasn't had access to the hardware since iOS 9. Readings, especially if the battery is not fully charged, are not accurate at all. Your best shot at accurate information is still Coconut Battery. The beta battery health function in iOS 11.3 seems fairly consistent with Coconut Battery.
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There is nothing wrong with your iPad. There is a lot wrong with the app.
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As I said all three give comparable results. Of course IOS 11.3 build in battery health display is not available in iPad. Please read the thread you'll see what already has been discussed before. Once again, battery charge level has nothing to do with battery capacity.
But they don't. Read innumerable posts here. Do they occasionally agree? Yes, as a matter of coincidence or luck. Battery charge level has nothing to do with capacity, but it has a lot to do with how Battery Health reads capacity. Or, rather, how Battery Health guesses at battery capacity. You can do one or more of three things. You can return the iPad and try again. You can ask Apple to run a diagnostic on the battery. You can install CB if you have a Mac. But trying to use Battery Health to get information that it can't provide is basically another version of the definition of insanity.
I think newellj was referring to the entire thread not just your last post. You seem to have a grasp of how batteries operate. All my iPhones/iPads have held their design capacity over 200+ cycles ever since I started recording them 3-5 times a month when I got my 6+ many years ago. If I saw a drop within the first month, I'd be worried - but I haven't seen that in the many Apple devices that have gone through my hands. My wife's 6s+ had a defective battery (part of this last "battery gate" thing - but it didn't start having problems till about a year into ownership).
I wouldn't consider a few % drop to be a dented car -- Batteries are not consistent, the design capacity will fluctuate. Check out my 8+ records: (Ignore the center columns as they're for my own OCD and have no meaning without a lot of explanation (I redded them out)). I have graphs and other things as well (off to the right)
.Purchased On F column is the mAh capacity of the battery when it was fully 100% charged. Only using coconutBattery on a Mac (phone plugged in).
Sure it does protects battery from deep discharge which can kill battery instantly but it definitely is still harmful to run battery until device shuts down.
I already commented you that. I get somewhat less than from 2017 model.
You are missing my point totally. It is not about if you get barely 10 hours of usage time or not, it is about why battery does not give you anymore full 8827 mAh capacity after few days usage!
How much hours you get is really not usable measurement, since it depends on so much how you use the device and what is display brightness and so on. For example my Apple Watch easily runs 2-3 days on single charge while apple says 18 hours.
You don't see what is wrong with that statement? Then why some units show battery health 100% wear 0%, and some don't? Well my understanding is that batteries are not equal condition between those units giving different results. I't not sure what you are trying to convince it is.
If you think so, I respect you views. So then, please just stop reading and commenting this thread. It is as simple as that.
Neither I'm a guy who runs to the doctor the same day when he catch a cold.
Anyway, let's not get personal and if there is nothing to contribute to the thread topic then no reason to post anything.
The same goes for you what I said above.
I'm just not a guy who would accept new car dented and scratched and just pay the full price. This is no more complicated than that.
I wasn’t getting personal, it was just an analogy to describe how I perceived your behaviour. I’ve only ever tried to be helpful here, but I see that we have very different views on this matter, so there’s no point in my contributing further. I hope you find a way to solve your problem.
I don't know, but generally speaking, to me it sounds like most peoples commenting this thread just want to bury head in the sand instead of thinking what the heck might be wrong when battery capacity seems to be dropping so fast.
I agree. That is about what I would expect from quality battery to act like if used and stored properly.
Again, I agree with that.
My wife's 6s+ had a defective battery (part of this last "battery gate" thing - but it didn't start having problems till about a year into ownership).
I wouldn't consider a few % drop to be a dented car -- Batteries are not consistent, the design capacity will fluctuate.
Check out my 8+ records: (Ignore the center columns as they're for my own OCD and have no meaning without a lot of explanation (I redded them out)). I have graphs and other things as well (off to the right)
Sure it is unlikely that capacity drop like this is not going to cause problems right away, but in case it is really going down so fast in the begin with it will bite you in the butt later on.
Your 8+ records looks just like what I would expect from good battery. It seems to be even after 6 months still slightly above nominal capacity. Of course it will fluctuate some, but like seen in your chart, deviations are quite small, and again well above 100% and never below.
Your 8+ records looks just like what I would expect from good battery. It seems to be even after 6 months still slightly above nominal capacity. Of course it will fluctuate some, but like seen in your chart, deviations are quite small, and again well above 100% and never below.
Or maybe it’s just you. Worrying about something unnecessarily that you don’t really understand.
I doubt that. I know this poll has only very limited number of votes but still 7 peoples say 0% wear and 9 says there is wear and 8 of them reporting 5% or more and only one 3%. So to me it looks like there may be chance to find a unit without battery wear. I'm still hesitating if I should take my chances and try another, since you never know for sure what you get and always possibility to end up with some other problems. I also have slight book spine (left edge in portrait mode) and uniformity issue with display but I guess those are also pretty common with ips-monitors.
Have you returned your 2018 iPad yet due to the problems you've experienced?
I don't know what you mean by "so much trouble" but it is not wise to keep something that you are not satisfied with. The unit you have has light bleeding and now a poor battery. It makes more sense to return it while you still can and then figure out whether or not it these issues were unique to your device or universal to all.
I’ve had my iPad 6th gen for about a week now. Replaced my air 1. It’s better in every way and the battery thus far has been as good or better than my air which did have a great battery. I dunno. Mines excellent so far.
This comes up again and again. Search other threads. You'll get your answer on whether you need to freak out or not.
Most likely, you don't (as other people have already said). If your battery wear starts at 96% and from there starts to incrementally drop down consistently, then you probably have a problem, but if you see anything close to 100%, it's most likely just noise. Today's batteries are far more fool proof than the ones we got only 10 years ago. There was a right way and a wrong way to use them and I've been monitoring my batteries religiously for at least the last 10 years after having two Powerbook batteries die prematurely on me because I kept them plugged in constantly and never allowed them to cycle.
You don't need cycle them anymore or baby them. About the only thing you need to do with current day batteries is to not run them to 0% too often. Go ahead and check your battery as often as you want. Just don't despair if it drops a point and don't celebrate if it gains a point. It's going to do that all the time.
Most likely, you don't (as other people have already said). If your battery wear starts at 96% and from there starts to incrementally drop down consistently, then you probably have a problem, but if you see anything close to 100%, it's most likely just noise. Today's batteries are far more fool proof than the ones we got only 10 years ago. There was a right way and a wrong way to use them and I've been monitoring my batteries religiously for at least the last 10 years after having two Powerbook batteries die prematurely on me because I kept them plugged in constantly and never allowed them to cycle.
You don't need cycle them anymore or baby them. About the only thing you need to do with current day batteries is to not run them to 0% too often. Go ahead and check your battery as often as you want. Just don't despair if it drops a point and don't celebrate if it gains a point. It's going to do that all the time.
I mean by trouble that if I go blindly exchanging my current unit to another one, it is always possible to get some new issues my current unit does not have, or get one with the same battery issues I already have.
That is why I’m interested to hear from other iPad 2018 owners battery test results, so that I see what chance there is to find one without problem.
Regarding display jury is still out so to speak. It seems that backlight bleed has decreased a lot from what it was in the begin with and it is perfectly tolerable now. You have to look very hard in completly dark room to see it. Ips-monitors tend to be like that from what I have heard so backlight problems can get better or worse.
Really only issue is book spine on the left edge (dark stripe), slightly reddish lower left corner and dark bluish stripe on upper edge, all locations mentioned in portrait mode. From what I have read all these are very common even with pro models, so it may not be worth to play display lottery.
I get only 95% now. It was 100% out of the box but within few days dropped 5%.
I know that and I have mentioned that in this thread.
Sorry. I know I said I wouldn’t chime in again given that we don’t see eye to eye, but in so far as determining your odds of getting an ideal unit, you would need a sample size of hundreds at least to draw a statistically meaningful conclusion, and then you’d have to factor in things like where the units were bought. For all you know, a certain area got all the “bad” units, meaning your odds would be different depending on geography, or maybe which week of production the units were made in, or maybe whether it’s a 32GB or 128GB unit, etc.
If you’re not satisfied with your iPad, roll the dice and return/exchange it. Worst case scenario, you’re still not satisfied and you can try again. Is there a point where Apple will no longer accept returns within the standard 14 day period from a customer?
Not going to comment as battery discussions devolve into religion/politics like rancor on either side.
But, will add that my day-1 iPad Gen 6 is still holding strong at 100%. And 7-mo old iPhone doing fine as well.
But, will add that my day-1 iPad Gen 6 is still holding strong at 100%. And 7-mo old iPhone doing fine as well.
By all means feel free to chime in. As long as we are discussing about topic i’m not bothered.
I do realize that such small sample as this poll has gathered so far is by no means fully conclusive. But it does answer to my number one question - are there units where battery wear stays at 0% even after few charge cycles. Before this I was not sure if they are all like mine or not. You have made also valid observation about batches. I do have possibility to exchange my unit to new one from my dealer but I’m pretty sure their stock is all from the same batch, so it could be very possible I would get another alike. Of course I could try another color and hope they are possibly from different batch or even from different factory.
I know but I don’t want to find myself in situation where in the end I could have even worse unit than I originally had. My usual experience in similar situations has been that things you thought can’t get any worse will get worse than worse.
I did not buy directly from Apple but my dealer has good return policy, so it does not matter. I just don’t know how many returns they allow from one client and I rather not want to test that if you know what I mean. Surely I could just return this for refund and then order directly from Apple but as you mentioned, is there a point where they no longer accept return from the same customer??? I would need to mail order from them so that would be time consuming also.
Interesting results but I wonder how you get 100% condition for both? For iPad 100% should be 8827 mAh and for 7 1960 mAh. Looks like your iPad is about 200 mAh and iPhone about 100 mAh below what they should be. Of course your iPhone has quite many cycles already so this wear is likely normal but your iPad has only very few cycles.
For my iPad I get just below 8400 mAh, for example today 8366 mAh and that value is from outside app source. My iPad battery has only 5 cycles. Actually apps also seems to give reliable readings, they are just rounded up to nearest 100. So when app said today 8400 mAh it was actually 8366 mAh. Voltage reported by app was spot on, again rounded so that when app said like 4.10 volts it was actually 4.0980 volts. My point being here that thing are actually worse than what app says, not the other way around.
Then again my iPhone after 50 cycles is still slightly above nominal capacity!
Anyone who suspect appstore apps give wrong information should compare the results with Coconut Battery or other programs using the same method like iMazing. In my devices I get the same results from these all, only that appstore apps do the rounding up to even 100’s.
There I one final thing what I wondering. I see in all iPad tear down reviews mentioned that battery capacity is 8827 mAh but is this the only capacity battery they install at factory or do different vendors manufacture different capacity batteries? If that’s the case then I again wonder how in all tear down reviews units were always with the same capacity battery? It would be interesting to hear from peoples who are working at phone and tablet service centers and who actually get to see every day what’s inside these devices.
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I did get another iPad early this week and I've been keeping closely eye on the battery. (I selected different colour to make sure I'm not getting one from the same batch and this one is made couple weeks later and based on the battery diagnostic using PC + USB method shows that battery is from another vendor in this one).
So far it looks better and still holding its full capacity (kind of). What I mean by that last remark is that I noticed using PC + USB to read actual information from the battery that design capacity of the battery is only 8557 mAh and not 8827 mAh, but in this unit it is way above 8557. It was the same with another iPad with battery weakening (it went way below 8557 too) and at first I thought it was just some problem with that device it obviously is not just that. I wonder why all tear down reviews says that battery is 8827 mAh. Actually battery came from the factory saying almost as 9000 mAh effective max but it soon reduced some but that is expected result when battery charged so high and stored long time. I wonder why these came with battery charge so high when new? Both of my iPad 2018 came with 88% charge level out of the box.
What design capacity others get for their iPad 2018 using PC + USB method to check actual battery details?
So far it looks better and still holding its full capacity (kind of). What I mean by that last remark is that I noticed using PC + USB to read actual information from the battery that design capacity of the battery is only 8557 mAh and not 8827 mAh, but in this unit it is way above 8557. It was the same with another iPad with battery weakening (it went way below 8557 too) and at first I thought it was just some problem with that device it obviously is not just that. I wonder why all tear down reviews says that battery is 8827 mAh. Actually battery came from the factory saying almost as 9000 mAh effective max but it soon reduced some but that is expected result when battery charged so high and stored long time. I wonder why these came with battery charge so high when new? Both of my iPad 2018 came with 88% charge level out of the box.
What design capacity others get for their iPad 2018 using PC + USB method to check actual battery details?
I have been monitoring my second iPad 2018's battery health and this one definitely seems strong.
Here are battery statistics from this one after couple of weeks and several charge cycles:
Battery Design Max. Charge:,8557 mAh
Battery Effective Max. Charge:,8821 mAh (103.1%)
This is what first one showed after same time:
Battery Design Max. Charge:,8557 mAh
Battery Effective Max. Charge:,8248 mAh (96.4%)
Pretty huge difference in my opinion between the two.
What still puzzles me is that battery design max is only 8557 mAh but all tear down reviews state that battery inside is 8827 mAh. Are there units manufactured with different capacity batteries or are they "underclocked" someway? What ever that is, it does not change what can be seen above, nearly 600 mAh capacity difference between the two only two weeks used units! Most important about that in my opinion is the fact that the weaker one was out of the box over 8800 mAh effective charge but it lost so much capacity within two weeks of use.
Also this new unit's display does not suffer from book spine issue so noticeable and it is a little bit more uniform but still I'm not completely happy with it. I'm still hesitating what to do with it.
Here are battery statistics from this one after couple of weeks and several charge cycles:
Battery Design Max. Charge:,8557 mAh
Battery Effective Max. Charge:,8821 mAh (103.1%)
This is what first one showed after same time:
Battery Design Max. Charge:,8557 mAh
Battery Effective Max. Charge:,8248 mAh (96.4%)
Pretty huge difference in my opinion between the two.
What still puzzles me is that battery design max is only 8557 mAh but all tear down reviews state that battery inside is 8827 mAh. Are there units manufactured with different capacity batteries or are they "underclocked" someway? What ever that is, it does not change what can be seen above, nearly 600 mAh capacity difference between the two only two weeks used units! Most important about that in my opinion is the fact that the weaker one was out of the box over 8800 mAh effective charge but it lost so much capacity within two weeks of use.
Also this new unit's display does not suffer from book spine issue so noticeable and it is a little bit more uniform but still I'm not completely happy with it. I'm still hesitating what to do with it.
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For those of you reading this, I had the same problem and my 1 month old iPad 2018 was at the capacity of 94% on Battery life app and 96% on coconut battery since it states the design capacity as 8557 mah. I got a bit worried just like this guy but then I decided to chat with an Apple advisor and they helped me to run a diagnostic on my iPad via wifi. He told me that my battery capacity was at 99%. He told me that Apple doesn't recommend third-party apps for checking battery health. So my advice to those people who care a lot about their gadgets just like I do, always use a reliable source such the manufacturing company to check your device or at least don't fully make your decisions based on third-party apps. I hope this is stress relieving for many people as it was for me. Enjoy it!
Did they do remote diagnostic for the battery? I understood it is not as accurate as what they can do with your device at service center. Also was it so that their diagnostic gives calculated value take from prevoius 2 weeks, so if battery is weakening fast it does not show in that test right away? If someone know more about that procedure please comment. Anyway I’m glad that you are happy with your battery as it is. I could not accept battery dimishing so fast and got another unit that still after 2-3 dozen charges has around 103% max charge in relation to design charge value.
What yours report as max charge value?
Yup, it was remote. As Long as I know it’s the most accurate way possible other than going to the actual service center. Refered by many website as “ gold standard of battery tests”. What I read in the internet is that battery life and other iOS apps like that are totally miscalculated and they’re totally not reliable since after iOS 10 their access to battery information was caught off. And for coconut battery it only looks for mah which is not right to only depend on the mah for the health. On the official Apple website it always gives the unit for its batteries in watt-hour. Do you ever wonder why, we’ll it’s because if a battery has the same mah as the other battery but has a higher voltage, it actually has a lower capacity and that’s proven scientifically. But watt-hour considers voltage as well and it’s known to be the most reliable measure for batteries. In this case, my iPad as written in the Apple website, has a capacity of 32.4 watt-hour. Now let’s convert the current mah I have in coconut battery to watt hour. I’m too lazy to calculate by my own so I use a website that does this for me. Since coconut battery doesn’t give the voltage, I have to use battery life to see that( no other choice)(4.2 V). So by using voltage and mah we can figure out the watt hour and guess what, it’s 34.6 watt hour. Even higher than the promised capacity( which is probably because battery life isn’t reliable but I still used the apps you use to check your battery health). What I’m guessing here is that Apple battery tests don’t only depend on mah but also consider the voltage and they have access to way more information than any other apps which makes it way more accurate. Apart from all of those, I feel like my battery is way beyond the promised capacity because with light usage ( web browsing, watching YouTube, sketching and etc.) until 20% I get 10 hours of battery life and guess if I continue until 0% I would get 12 hours, way beyond promised. I got two very reliable sources, my heart and Apple telling me that my battery is doing as original and I don’t let unreliable apps ruin this fact. This is not just a reply but something to make people aware that apps such as coconut battery may not always tell the truth.
[doublepost=1528857694][/doublepost]By the way, they told that me that they didn’t have a unit for the max capacity and only gave it as percentage ( 99%). By asking my current cycle, I made sure that their information was up to date which it was.
[doublepost=1528858249][/doublepost]Also, you said that it takes it from previous two weeks. I don’t think it’s that because the guy literally told me that my current max capacity is 99%. I don’t know where do you get your information from but I can contact them and ask if it’s from previous two week or it’s literally current. I’ll check that
[doublepost=1528859560][/doublepost]I just chatted with an Apple advisor and I was told that it's based on current reading and not previous two weeks. She also told me that the remote diagnostic uses the same system as the service center diagnostic and she confirmed it's as accurate as going to the service center. So we can literally say it's the most reliable way
[doublepost=1528857694][/doublepost]By the way, they told that me that they didn’t have a unit for the max capacity and only gave it as percentage ( 99%). By asking my current cycle, I made sure that their information was up to date which it was.
[doublepost=1528858249][/doublepost]Also, you said that it takes it from previous two weeks. I don’t think it’s that because the guy literally told me that my current max capacity is 99%. I don’t know where do you get your information from but I can contact them and ask if it’s from previous two week or it’s literally current. I’ll check that
[doublepost=1528859560][/doublepost]I just chatted with an Apple advisor and I was told that it's based on current reading and not previous two weeks. She also told me that the remote diagnostic uses the same system as the service center diagnostic and she confirmed it's as accurate as going to the service center. So we can literally say it's the most reliable way
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