And here is another proof that color profile in JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board is from some different display. RTINGS usually shared their own measured ICC profile in their articles. Profile from panel datasheet that i used have almost identical gamut as profile from Dell U2725QE Monitor Review
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
- WikiPost WikiPost
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
- Status
Thanks to @PaulD-UK and this thread, I have a working 5K display!
I reused the mac PSU and from what I read, the noise it emits is normal? I can hear it even with the panel on.
I reused the mac PSU and from what I read, the noise it emits is normal? I can hear it even with the panel on.
Attachments
agreed, it would be good to update the first post with the 21.5 4k info.
I think the R9513 is the only board that works. Mine new one is inbound from China so I will update you if/when I get it working.
It does sort of support the native resolution of the display. The problem I had is that the firmware was only using basic EDID functionality which has a maximum value of 4095 (12 bit number). MacOS doesn't recognise this as a valid figure (not divisible by 8), so it ignores it and defaults to 3840 x 2160 resulting in a stretched image or missing pixels. There is a way to get the EDID to display more than 4095 (after all, the 5k panels manage it correctly), but the firmware wasn't using it. I offered to send Stonetaskin the updated, correct EDID but they kept just delaying so I gave up. The best I managed was 4088 x 2304, using BetterDisplay, but I want to give the screen to my girlfriend and she can't install that on her work laptop! That said I am interested in shijan's method in post 2,950 above about just dropping the updated in EDID in the Overrides directory which is something I couldn't work out...
@Infundibulator
I chose to keep the power supply out of the case for two main reasons. 1) as you said - no fan required. 2) if the power supply craps out, I don't have to take the panel back off the case to replace it. With most setups it's easy enough to locate the supply where it's out of sight and manage the cable to make it look ok (or hidden). Mine's been going strong for almost 2 yeas now with no issues.
I chose to keep the power supply out of the case for two main reasons. 1) as you said - no fan required. 2) if the power supply craps out, I don't have to take the panel back off the case to replace it. With most setups it's easy enough to locate the supply where it's out of sight and manage the cable to make it look ok (or hidden). Mine's been going strong for almost 2 yeas now with no issues.
hello, im following close behind you guys, taking notes and saving pictures. all very fine work. about to work on some pieces this weekend and this may be the last part of the puzzle. who do i speak to about this ram access 3d printed mod? i would very much like to add this. thanks!
@benqo
I think your hardware is OK, but the JRY—FA1 (like all JRY boards) doesn’t respond to DDC audio controls properly.
Volume doesn’t work, and mute and unmute are swapped.
Try muting it, to see if that makes it work.
The free version of Better Display has a control tab for DDC, which might make it easier to troubleshoot, but it doesn’t control audio.
Another free app, eqMac, does give keyboard control of volume, according to earlier posts in the thread.
Maybe you need to turn off DDC control?
Edit: see this post and the previous one:
I think your hardware is OK, but the JRY—FA1 (like all JRY boards) doesn’t respond to DDC audio controls properly.
Volume doesn’t work, and mute and unmute are swapped.
Try muting it, to see if that makes it work.
The free version of Better Display has a control tab for DDC, which might make it easier to troubleshoot, but it doesn’t control audio.
Another free app, eqMac, does give keyboard control of volume, according to earlier posts in the thread.
Maybe you need to turn off DDC control?
Edit: see this post and the previous one:
Last edited:
Here is also nice online EDID decoder to see all settings in plain text https://people.freedesktop.org/~imirkin/edid-decode/
In the end it provides some debug report. For example here are warning messaged for my panel:
In the end it provides some debug report. For example here are warning messaged for my panel:
Hi guys!
Update on my slowly progressing 21.5" build
Using 1 DP cable and 1 USB-c between mac-mini and the monitor:
Monitor board R9513 (my 3rd board!!) - working!
Original fan speedcontrolled by PWM: - working
Sound with speakerdrivers in series through lowpassfilter for tweeter - working
Original powercable connected to "internal" AC/DC converter (12V) - working
Original powerbutton connected to flatcable - working
Controlbuttons from controlstrip controlled by small buttons through back of monitor - working! (But the up and down buttons are flipped on the controlstrip (what is marked as up is actually down and vice versa) now connected "correct")
power -LED red/green extended to empty port - working
Camera- USB connected through USB-splitter (three USB-A to 1 USB-c) through port on back: - working
IR-sensor- extended to empty port - still not working ): Have asked stonetaskin multiple times what the actual IR-sensor is, without any respons. Bought new IR sensors on a "guess" from Ali-express (HS0038) . This is not working. Probably wrong sensor...
USB-microphone connected through USB-splitter to USB-c through port on back: - not working
headphone jack extended to headphone jack on driverboard: - not working
Thanx everyone and especially Paul to have helped me get this far! Aquite frustrating but closing in on the end, a fun project, so maybe i will try to get my hands on a 27" in the future and do another conversion
Update on my slowly progressing 21.5" build
Using 1 DP cable and 1 USB-c between mac-mini and the monitor:
Monitor board R9513 (my 3rd board!!) - working!
Original fan speedcontrolled by PWM: - working
Sound with speakerdrivers in series through lowpassfilter for tweeter - working
Original powercable connected to "internal" AC/DC converter (12V) - working
Original powerbutton connected to flatcable - working
Controlbuttons from controlstrip controlled by small buttons through back of monitor - working! (But the up and down buttons are flipped on the controlstrip (what is marked as up is actually down and vice versa) now connected "correct")
power -LED red/green extended to empty port - working
Camera- USB connected through USB-splitter (three USB-A to 1 USB-c) through port on back: - working
IR-sensor- extended to empty port - still not working ): Have asked stonetaskin multiple times what the actual IR-sensor is, without any respons. Bought new IR sensors on a "guess" from Ali-express (HS0038) . This is not working. Probably wrong sensor...
USB-microphone connected through USB-splitter to USB-c through port on back: - not working
headphone jack extended to headphone jack on driverboard: - not working
Thanx everyone and especially Paul to have helped me get this far! Aquite frustrating but closing in on the end, a fun project, so maybe i will try to get my hands on a 27" in the future and do another conversion
The IR sensor I think i just give up on, since i dont need it with the through hole buttons working just fine.
But could need some advice on the audiojack and the microphones:
1)
The audiojack does "work" but when the extension is connected to the board, there is no audio from the speakers, eventhough there is no headphone plugged in. Meaning the board considers the extensions to be a headphone and disconects the speakers. Anyone know how that works, and how i could overcome that?
2) Something is wrong with the USB-splitter. When ONLY the microphone is connected to the splitter, it works. When BOTH the microphone and the Camera is connected to the splitter, ONLY the camera is recognized and works. Any advice? Just get another splitter?
But could need some advice on the audiojack and the microphones:
1)
The audiojack does "work" but when the extension is connected to the board, there is no audio from the speakers, eventhough there is no headphone plugged in. Meaning the board considers the extensions to be a headphone and disconects the speakers. Anyone know how that works, and how i could overcome that?
2) Something is wrong with the USB-splitter. When ONLY the microphone is connected to the splitter, it works. When BOTH the microphone and the Camera is connected to the splitter, ONLY the camera is recognized and works. Any advice? Just get another splitter?