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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

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@obesechess “Will the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 give me the same video results as the R1811 V4?

If so, then I would just need the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, a DZ-LP0818 and a TB3/4 or 8K USB-C cable?”

Yes, the JRY—SA1 will give an excellent picture.
You can’t use a DZ-LP0818 with this board, but you don’t need it.
 
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@marshes

There is much better tension with one long screw and one regular that has been loosened a bit. I almost got it exactly, but I also don't have an internal power supply. Mine is really bare bones inside, so you'll have to play with it.

I think the easiest is to attach to a VESA mount which is my next step
 
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@razmanugget "I think the easiest is to attach to a VESA mount which is my next step"

The proper thing is easiest, but one from a 21.5" iMac fits and has the same shape VESA plate, but the internal bracket needs extending to make it secure...

They are becoming more available now more VESA iMacs are becoming EOL. :)
A special Apple pentalobe P15 screwdriver bit to unfit them is still as scarce...

iMacVESAmounts.jpg
 
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PaulD-UK said:
@obesechess “Will the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 give me the same video results as the R1811 V4?

If so, then I would just need the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, a DZ-LP0818 and a TB3/4 or 8K USB-C cable?”

Yes, the JRY—SA1 will give an excellent picture.
You can’t use a DZ-LP0818 with this board, but you don’t need it.
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks. Sounds like I'll just need the JRY-SA1 and a VESA mount and then I can figure this out as I go.
 
PaulD-UK said:
The R9516 (and the R9A18/R1811) have a red JST PH socket, which might support an external backlight board, but if the R9513 doesn't have it, then it's firmware may not support this function?
Click to expand...

External backlight doesn't need any firmware support.
It's directly connected to the same pins that's used for the on-board driver.
So if you add the missing connector it will just work.
 
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balika011 said:
External backlight doesn't need any firmware support.
It's directly connected to the same pins that's used for the on-board driver.
So if you add the missing connector it will just work.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have the two white sockets on the R9153 as Paul posted. I can't find anything on Aliexpress that fits the bill. The DZ-LP0818 used on the 27" screens has a 6 pin input but the R9153 only has a two 4-pin sockets. Are you aware of a specific board I could use on the 21.5"?
 
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kevinherring said:
Thanks. I have the two white sockets on the R9153 as Paul posted. I can't find anything on Aliexpress that fits the bill. The DZ-LP0818 used on the 27" screens has a 6 pin input but the R9153 only has a two 4-pin sockets. Are you aware of a specific board I could use on the 21.5"?
Click to expand...
You need to solder on the 6 pin JP2 connector and connect it there.
The board doesn't really care about the screen size.
What is the model number of the panel you have?
 
@kevinherring "I have the two white sockets on the R9153..."

It's not the two white 4-pin sockets (high backlight voltage)...
It's the 6-pin red JST PH socket (12V control voltage) that is missing - see arrow.
This will connect to a DZ-LP0818 board, but I've no idea if that board will drive a 2017 4K iMac's LM215UH1 (SD)(A2) panel safely at the correct voltage/current?

If you take care then it should be possible to do a safe test, starting at a low brightness level...

R9513NoSocket.jpg


Here is the socket on another 4K iMac conversion board. the R9516 (with USB-C input):

R9516v2.jpg
 
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Some more useful settings that i find in JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board.
When monitor cable was disconnected i guess i pressed and hold some button and board started to generate solid colors. Very useful when test new panel.
2, 3 and 4 buttons permanently assigned to quick functions: input source, Brightness and center dot/crosshatch.

Could this board have some hidden technical info menu with calculated hours and on/off cycles like in Dell displays?
 

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I am getting a headache of my brainstorming, but I wanted to you experts to check if I missed something and if it electric possible.
Imac A1419 2017
  1. JRY SA1
  2. PU 24v 200 8A??
  3. original fan
  4. charging possibility
  5. crossovers (not decide yet... need to read the posts about this again)
  6. Using the original ports as much as possible. 1x USB c port for DP and the other for the USB C video*. As the HDMI is a more option feature, I think it is best to have it wired with an extension cord and leave it inside so it can retrieved through the RAM door if needed.
  7. No webcam and microphone as of iPhone connection (or what you call it) it is not worth the trouble.
  8. No Headphone or SD/TF reader (although there is a hub for it see further).
Extra's which I think are a plus to have:
Fully functional hub 3.2 gen 2 (internal). on which I connect:

S5d9d8faa51b946079e6d04cc15a045c58.jpg.jpeg
(there is a 2x USB A and 2x USB C version)
?????? if I connect the SA1 usb to the hub.... does the audio function? ???????
2500 or 5000 ethernet to USB
this hub (which the seller says that it has the same distance of the iMac case ports

Sb3bf96a3934048cfb1a584e599c29f35Z.jpeg
Sc9b6a6f4105f49a8b80d045994657e80c.jpeg

YES, I get it it will give me an extra cable* but it makes the monitor more future prove. I just think to let the cable out via the RAM door (for now).

*OR OWC thunderbolt 4 hub which allow me to connect the USB C video, the 4 port hub and ethernet and just give me 1 cable.
I can find some already for +- $60-80 (without tax/freight)


NOW MY DOUBS/QUESTIONS:
as I think the hubs need to be powered, I wonder what DC to Dc step down I will need and if it all run with the PU?
internal hub 5v 2A
4Ports hub 5v 2A
in combination with the OWC hub 20v 5.5A
Fan 12v ?A.... Do the SA1 builder think that there is need for an extra fan for the SA1 board?

Will the power button disconnect all? PU, board etc. if disconnect I dont want things be live inside.

Which crossover to use?
And is this SA! also wrong labeled for the speakers?

How hard is it to do modifications to the A1419 case regarding drilling or making the ports bigger?

What to do with the OSD? I saw various nice solutions drilling holes in the iMac case but are you going to need this that often? maybe just in the beginning. I may just give it a place behind the RAM door.

Sure thing will come up during the build, but I want to be prepared as much as possible, keeping it as simple as possible.

Thanks to all for this very informative forum.
 
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jorycz said:
Hi all,

Finally I not only finished my conversion based on R1811 but also document what I can and I uploaded it all here https://github.com/jorycz/iMac-5K-display-convert

There is also settings of the display so colours are as close as to my second iMac 2017 sitting next to this one converted and also settings of BetterDisplay (free version) so volume and brightness works on apple keyboard as before on iMac. Also all files for 3D printing are uploaded.

Everything is working out of the box - camera, speakers, microphone, charging, mouse connected to USB, ... I just plug usb-c/thunderbolt cable from my MacBook and display wakes up in couple of seconds. No issues so far. Behaves like Apple Studio Display (except quality of audio of course) for half of the price.

If anyone wants to compare anything from this build with original iMac, send me a message before I start second conversion that will start in a month probably.
Click to expand...
Great writeup and build!
 
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ItsAShaunParty said:
Hey all,

I'm getting cold feet.

I picked up a 2017 iMac 27" (LM270QQ1 SD(C1)) for $200 — i5 3.4GHz, 16GB RAM, Radeon Pro 570, 1TB Fusion. The plan was to convert it for use with my new M4 Mac Mini.

I’ve got solid tech experience (did IT at my university, worked at the Apple Store), but I’m not a hardware modder. I recently did a simple 21.5" conversion — just hooked up a board and screen. With this 27", I’d love to retain more features: the speakers (which are excellent), mic, camera, and keyboard controls.

But here’s the thing — I’m cheap. That R1811 board costs $250+, which is hard to justify. And I'm not good at soldering, so the speakers and stuff could be challenging to piece together.

So I started wondering… should I just reattach the screen and use AirPlay or screen sharing? I even bought a dummy 8K HDMI plug and can connect via Ethernet for minimal lag. This video made it seem fine. Not great. But fine. Dumb idea?

As long as I'm being honest — don't judge me — I looked into Luna Display. It doesn't seem like a horrible option.

Again, I just want something for my Mac Mini M4. It seems like Luna could accomplish this quite easily. Then maybe in the future I could find a discounted R1811 and go for it.

It would save hundreds of dollars and a few hours or more of work. Oh, choices.

Thoughts?

Also, I have this 8 K dummy HDMI. Can I use that instead of buying the Luna dongle? What is that dongle? Man, I'm so cheap. I gotta admit, Apple brings out my cheapness. I always feel like they're trying to rip me off, so it makes me feel like I need to beat them at their own game.
Click to expand...
Don't forget running that iMac using Airplay or Luna will consume about 80W of power. The converted 5K monitor is way less.
 
shijan said:
Some more useful settings that i find in JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board.
When monitor cable was disconnected i guess i pressed and hold some button and board started to generate solid colors. Very useful when test new panel.
2, 3 and 4 buttons permanently assigned to quick functions: input source, Brightness and center dot/crosshatch.

Could this board have some hidden technical info menu with calculated hours and on/off cycles like in Dell displays?
Click to expand...
Nice! How did you assign the button shortcuts (input source and brightness)?
 
It was already assigned like this from factory. There are no any settings in to assign different keys.
 
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@paulpijnenborg "?????? if I connect the SA1 usb to the hub.... does the audio function? ???????
2500 or 5000 ethernet to USB..."

If you connect the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 to the Mac with USB-C, then the SA1's USB-A output ports connect to the Mac at USB 2 speeds, ~40MB/s, enough for an audio signal, but not enough for a SSD or a high speed USB to Ethernet adapter.

To get higher USB 3 speeds you have to connect the SA1's USB-B input port to the Mac with a second USB 3.x cable.

Here is a speed test done by @Ozpyn:

"OWC thunderbolt 4 hub which allow me to connect the USB C video, the 4 port hub and ethernet and just give me 1 cable."

This will work, but no one has tried doing it this way, because the iMac case is totally sealed, and doesn't allow access to the TB4 hub to change the plug arrangements.
It is better to just have the TB4 hub outside the iMac case, with short cables into the iMac case interior.

These TB4 hubs get warm in use, even if properly ventilated.
Inside the iMac one could get very hot without proper fan cooling...

"I wonder what DC to Dc step down I will need and if it all run with the PU?
internal hub 5v 2A
4Ports hub 5v 2A
in combination with the OWC hub 20v 5.5A
Fan 12v ?A.... Do the SA1 builder think that there is need for an extra fan for the SA1 board?"

Having this high power requirements would increase the size of the PSU and extra heat would come from voltage converters.
The original iMac fan (using ~0.25-0.5A) would keep it cool is proper exhaust ducting is fitted, but the fan speed would maybe make it audible.

"Will the power button disconnect all? PU, board etc. if disconnect I dont want things be live inside."

The original iMac power switch can ONLY be used to put the SA1 board ON or into Standby.
You would need extra mains voltage (115/230V) switching to turn the PSU off.
This could be done by extra low voltage control circuitry (a latching relay), but is too complicated for most builders to bother with - you can have your monitor powered OFF from a switched mains supply...

"Which crossover to use?
And is this SA1 also wrong labeled for the speakers?"

The SA1 speaker output is labelled correctly (only the R9A18/R1811 are labelled wrongly).
Neither of the commercial crossovers available is totally correct, but either will work.
Or the DIY circuit that I use.

"How hard is it to do modifications to the A1419 case regarding drilling or making the ports bigger?"
Not difficult if you have tools, and a workbench. Epoxy resin will bond to the iMac case to add additional fastening points.

"What to do with the OSD? I saw various nice solutions drilling holes in the iMac case but are you going to need this
that often? maybe just in the beginning. I may just give it a place behind the RAM door."

You ARE going to need access to the Control Strip, because is easier if minor tweaks to the OSD can be done straightforwardly.
 
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@PaulD-UK and others.

Thanks again. all clear so far to make an order list.
Today I hopefully turned on the iMac again to see if it magically stayed on. sniff sniff. no no no keeps restarting.

Really hope this failure is not due to a faulty screen!!!

Tomorrow I will open up the iMac. Put the screen in a very safe place till all parts are here. in the meanwhile I made paper boxes of the dimensions of the parts so I can play around to find the best location (which is already done by some of you, but...)

StoneTAskin said they could help with keeping the taxes low(er). If the TAX bill amount is kept under an x value I pay +-40% tax else close to 100%. so lets us keep fingers crossed.

PS
I played with the thought of putting the TB4 hub inside, but it is like you said; never get inside again* and it is an expensive hub still. that is why I go for 2 cable build.

* As we have some experts in 3D printing: is it possible to design some corner grips which go a bit over the display and back using some elastic band to keep all together. This as a temporally solution till "definitive" build. the masking tape may leave marking on the screen and That glueing together again and again makes me nervous/scared.

going to bed, early morning.
 
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ItsAShaunParty said:
I suspected this!

So the $90 Luna display dongle isn'y any different than the $3 8k dummy HDMI I bought on Amazon? You can get 5 5-pack of these dummy HDMI things for, like, $10-20 on Amazon.

Ha, that's a very good point about the 5k thing. My current daily driver is a 2020 27" iMac. I keep it as 2560x1440. I guess I'll give this a whirl and see how I like it. I can use my 2020 to test.

I wonder if I can use Luna with my dummy from Amazon. Only one way to find out....
Click to expand...
When I said there was only one way to find out, I was hoping someone would jump in and tell me the answer....
 
paulpijnenborg said:
StoneTAskin said they could help with keeping the taxes low(er). If the TAX bill amount is kept under an x value I pay +-40% tax else close to 100%. so lets us keep fingers crossed.
Click to expand...
Are you from Hungary? It definetly sounds like you are!
You could also use internal usb hubs made for PCs, like NZXT AC-IUSBH-M3-4 or SABRENT HB-INTR.
 
Question... answer is probably not!

But is it possible to remove the heat pipes from the fin holder? I tried but it seems to be welded or glued.
 
@paulpijnenborg
No! the heatsink will fall apart as to only thing holding all together is the welds to the two heat pipes through the middle.
Even the outer top cover is only thin plastic sheet stuck to the edges of the fins, so can't be detached.

But, you could just cut off the heatpipes outside the heatsink.
Then you could use the finned part to direct the output airstream of the fan out through the exhaust grille slots.
That would work fine...
 
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