Sidebar Sidebar
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

Done it! - Nehalem W5590 Octad 3,33 GHz

I have to say... very damn impressive, dude. The only way to one-up you would be to try and remove the IHS's hahahaha ^.^;;;

Yeah right. Maybe if I win the lottery. For now I ain't goin' near those cores! No wai! But it's good to know it's possible. Just a damn shame Apple doesn't make these things more upgradeable; the old Power Macs were easily upgradeable. Sigh. Sometimes the new Apple really ticks me off heh.

Of course, I do live near Intel. Maybe I can bribe one of their employees to sneak me some non-capped CPUs....... of course they will just tell me, "I like my job, sorry." /me shrugs
 
I was talking about the Cinebench. With my minimum RAM config I do not expect good Geekbench scores. I may give it a try tonight just to stop the nagging.
 
I got 15662 Geekbench with OS X 32-bit (vs 64-bit in Tutor's case) and really insufficient memory (6 GB compared to 32 GB in Tutor's). Do not expect me to buy a 64-bit Geekbench license and more RAM unless you want to sponsor it. :D

I do accept PayPal though. ;)
 
Of course not. I was just curious about your 'OS X 32-bit', because Snow Leopard should be running in 64 bit mode with a '09 Mac Pro.
 
geekbench 32bit versus 64bit

gugucom said:
I got 15662 Geekbench with OS X 32-bit (vs 64-bit in Tutor's case) and really insufficient memory (6 GB compared to 32 GB in Tutor's).
Click to expand...

This is interesting as it is virtually identical (15690) to the score I got with my 4,1 2.66 Octo 6GB machine using geekbench x64 on Snow Leopard. Any idea if the metric is comparible between the 32 and 64-bit geekbench?

If so, it seems like there is a really huge performance penalty for 32-bit applications since we have the same amount of RAM and your machine is running at so much higher clocks.
 
BeerdedOne said:
This is interesting as it is virtually identical (15690) to the score I got with my 4,1 2.66 Octo 6GB machine using geekbench x64 on Snow Leopard. Any idea if the metric is comparible between the 32 and 64-bit geekbench?

If so, it seems like there is a really huge performance penalty for 32-bit applications since we have the same amount of RAM and your machine is running at so much higher clocks.
Click to expand...

Historically Geekbench has largely divergent numbers between their 32 and 64 bit versions.
 
BTW, if you are interested in the details, I have logged the results in. They are some pages down but you will find them easily.
 
gugucom said:
BTW, if you are interested in the details, I have logged the results in. They are some pages down but you will find them easily.
Click to expand...

One question, as I'm about to try my install. How do you know how hard to tighten the screws for the heatsinks? That worries me a bit as I prepare to do this.

And oh yeah, what size screw driver is it again that I need to get to take the heatsinks off?
 
It is a 3 mm hex key. Nothing fancy this time.

Pulverizer managed to get the connectors closed by tightening the screws on the connector side first. I have never tried that technique. In my understanding you ought to bring the torque on in the most even way by diagonally moving forward and backward, but apparently there are several ways to skin the cat. I can confirm that over tightening can result to damaging your socket. Anand was having that problem and I went over the top with torque once as well. It is a matter of feeling. I cannot give you a Nm figure for a torque wrentch. In my case I could recover the damage to the little contact blades by carefully lifting them with a needle. There is obviously some scope for those little things to get out of shape and return to their previous state. But if you overdo it you may end up with some very expensive scrap. So Tutor's method of modding the connectors appears as a less risky approach to me. Take your pick.
 
gugucom said:
It is a 3 mm hex key. Nothing fancy this time.

Pulverizer managed to get the connectors closed by tightening the screws on the connector side first. I have never tried that technique. In my understanding you ought to bring the torque on in the most even way by diagonally moving forward and backward, but apparently there are several ways to skin the cat. I can confirm that over tightening can result to damaging your socket. Anand was having that problem and I went over the top with torque once as well. It is a matter of feeling. I cannot give you a Nm figure for a torque wrentch. In my case I could recover the damage to the little contact blades by carefully lifting them with a needle. There is obviously some scope for those little things to get out of shape and return to their previous state. But if you overdo it you may end up with some very expensive scrap. So Tutor's method of modding the connectors appears as a less risky approach to me. Take your pick.
Click to expand...

Where in the sam hell do you find the thermal padding? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
 
huscat said:
Do I need to remove the pink strips that come on the heatsinks when I use the new pads or just go over the existing pads?
Click to expand...
How thick are the existing pads?

If they're thick enough, you may not need to do anything (you'd want a little better than 2.0mm).

Otherwise, remove it, clean the HS surface (to get any adhesive off), and apply the new material.
 
nanofrog said:
How thick are the existing pads?

If they're thick enough, you may not need to do anything (you'd want a little better than 2.0mm).

Otherwise, remove it, clean the HS surface (to get any adhesive off), and apply the new material.
Click to expand...

The existing pink pad on the heatsink is about the same thickness as what you told me to buy from Digikey. I assume I just cut a strip the same length and apply it to what is already there, correct?
 
huscat said:
The existing pink pad on the heatsink is about the same thickness as what you told me to buy from Digikey. I assume I just cut a strip the same length and apply it to what is already there, correct?
Click to expand...

I went right over the top of the pink pad with the new stuff, in essence doubling the thickness. Right now the machine doesn't boot and there's a red light on right underneath the first hard drive bay. I think I'm close, I just can't figure out where to go from here.
 
Your first objective should be protecting your sockets from damage. Check them and apply Tutor's connector mod to avoid excessive torque.
 
huscat said:
The existing pink pad on the heatsink is about the same thickness as what you told me to buy from Digikey. I assume I just cut a strip the same length and apply it to what is already there, correct?
Click to expand...
If it's thick enough, you may not need to add anything. I don't know how compressable the existing material is, and it could actually put too much pressure on the Voltage regs, breaking the solder joints. Then there's the issue with the thermal conductivity with the additional thickness (the VR's get too hot anyway). Gap material isn't the most thermally efficient product out there. So making it thicker means it transfers less heat away to the heat sink.

So I'd go with one or the other, not a combination. ;) You need to get a good measurement, and keep in mind, the original material was selected for this purpose. So it's thermal conductivity is adequate for the job (I don't know what it is without knowing the exact material though. Guesses, yes, but not specifics).

huscat said:
I went right over the top of the pink pad with the new stuff, in essence doubling the thickness. Right now the machine doesn't boot and there's a red light on right underneath the first hard drive bay. I think I'm close, I just can't figure out where to go from here.
Click to expand...
I'd recommend removing the thermal gap material, and apply a single layer. It could even be the cause as to why it's not posting (fan socket isn't making contact with the connector due to the extensive thickness, if it's not compressible enough).

Check the connector, and follow gugucom's advice about Tutor's mod of the connector to make it work. Check the pins for damage, while you're at it. Just be extremely careful.

Good luck. :)
 
Well, as it turns out..... I wasn't waiting long enough for the machine to chime..... so it boots fine and shows 3.19ghz. However, I think the processor/memory riser card is defective as no matter whether it's the new procs or the originals, it shows some red lights showing bad memory DIMMs so I think I gotta take it to the apple store. Hopefully since it was a refurb, they won't bitch about my little plastic connectors being broken off...... wish me luck.
 
try re-seating the DIMMs before you take it in. They could be loose. that's a fairly common occurrence in the older machines, not sure about the 09s though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.
Top Bottom
Back