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I have an external outlet box near where I run the generator. And on my main panel, I have a generator interlock switch. I have a 30 amp setup, but ran wire able to handle 50 (I just have to change the panel breaker, and the outlet in the box to match).

For anyone who isn't aware, a generator interlock switch is a plate that is mounted to your panel box cover that prevents you from turning on the generator's breaker (to back feed the panel) without shutting of the main breaker (to prevent you from back feeding the grid which can kill people). They are panel specific, so you have to order the correct one, or design one for yourself. I mounted mine while my electrician ran the wire and outlet. I toughly tested to make sure that there was no way the generator's breaker could be on at the same time as the main, if you flip the generator's breaker it throws the main off, and the same goes for not being flip the main on without it shutting off the generator's breaker.

The beauty of this is you have the ability to select which circuits you want to power. For example, during the winter I want to power my heating system, in the summer I want to power the master bedroom's ac.

Luckily all my wall unit ac's are on their own circuits, so I flip them off to prevent anyone from using them (including my 220V 1st floor unit).

I do have to watch my neighbors to see when they get power back on, the last time, I was on my generator for at least an hour after the power came back on. The good thing is now my utility company as real time app notifications. So, when it comes back on, the meter lets them know, which sends a notification to the app.
My setup is that only the circuits I move to the generator are disconnected from the street power, so it would be easy to leave a light on for a house circuit, for a signal for when street power comes back online.
 
I have an external outlet box near where I run the generator. And on my main panel, I have a generator interlock switch. I have a 30 amp setup, but ran wire able to handle 50 (I just have to change the panel breaker, and the outlet in the box to match).

For anyone who isn't aware, a generator interlock switch is a plate that is mounted to your panel box cover that prevents you from turning on the generator's breaker (to back feed the panel) without shutting of the main breaker (to prevent you from back feeding the grid which can kill people). They are panel specific, so you have to order the correct one, or design one for yourself. I mounted mine while my electrician ran the wire and outlet. I toughly tested to make sure that there was no way the generator's breaker could be on at the same time as the main, if you flip the generator's breaker it throws the main off, and the same goes for not being flip the main on without it shutting off the generator's breaker.

The beauty of this is you have the ability to select which circuits you want to power. For example, during the winter I want to power my heating system, in the summer I want to power the master bedroom's ac.

Luckily all my wall unit ac's are on their own circuits, so I flip them off to prevent anyone from using them (including my 220V 1st floor unit).

I do have to watch my neighbors to see when they get power back on, the last time, I was on my generator for at least an hour after the power came back on. The good thing is now my utility company as real time app notifications. So, when it comes back on, the meter lets them know, which sends a notification to the app.

I did the same. I was on critical infrastructure until they installed a permanent industrial CNG Kohler at the waste water pumping station.

While I’m not a licensed electrician, I had to float the neutral on the generator to comply with US NEC to prevent two neutral bond points (panel and generator) and put warning labels on the generator that it is no longer configured for stand alone use.

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Does anyone know much about them here?

Not how to install but price range in general.
 
Price is going to depend on multiple factors such as proximity to a gas source and the meter base so it hard to ballpark without knowing this.

When I had my generator put it in my old house, I had to run 100'+ of gas line, but the generator was close to the meter. At my parents, the generator ended up right beside the gas supply, but had to run 75'+ of wire to get to the meter.

At my current house, they are literally side by side so less than 10' of each.

And then there is the "how big do I need"?

Here is an example, when the Derecho blew through from Chicago to DC back in 2012, almost everyone in my area lost power. I had a small 5500 generator, but it was not enough to run the house in 95 degree/high humidity weather.

So while everyone else was at HD getting on the list for portables, I went straight back and got a big one: 17kW. It came with the 16 Circuit ATS. So I had to pick which 16 circuits I wanted to be on the generator. And some, like A/C, ovens, dryers, etc count as two. But we made it work for a couple of years. But it wasn't enough to fully run my house.
When when my dad had to go into assisted living, mom decided she wanted a whole-home generator, so we made a deal. She got my old one for what I paid ($4,400) and she would pay to have it installed at her house.

I then had them install a 30kW at my house. I paid around $16K for that, but they didn't have to run the gas line since I had already done that. I got the 30k@ and 2x200W transfer switches.

The big difference between the two was the 17kW that went to my mom's house was air-cooled and mine was liquid-cooled. Air-cooled generators are generally smaller and louder than liquid-cooled.

Mom paid like $4,000 to run the longer electric line and buy an ATS plus what she paid me for the generator.

My advice is get several quotes. The "generator" companies are most likely going to have the best price as they have a repeatable model vs a regular electrician who is able to install them as he may have to hire a plumber for the gas work where the generator company will have a licensed plumber on staff.
 
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My only advice, given your lack of details, would be to buy a name brand that has some backing. This is not the time to save a few bucks at Harbor Freight (not bashing HF as I have lots of their stuff). I own a Honda genny.
 
You can use a smaller generator for a residential application if you include a Tesla Powerwall battery. A properly sized Powerwall will provide the reserve capacity to meet your peak demand. You can add some solar as well if you want.
 
We are purchasing a portable stand-by generator for possible power outages during storm season. I have read about Inverter generators that produce certain sine waves suitable for computers and other sensitive electronics. But, I also have several friends who also have computers and such, that have purchased standard generators. So, I am perplexed. Do any of you here have experience using generators in power outages and are able to use your computer, charge your phones, run security systems with cameras and such? If so, what are your thoughts on this? Are Inverters mandatory? If not, do you use any buffering or anything to protect sensitive electronics or is that even necessary? Thanks for your thoughts!
 
We are purchasing a portable stand-by generator for possible power outages during storm season. I have read about Inverter generators that produce certain sine waves suitable for computers and other sensitive electronics. But, I also have several friends who also have computers and such, that have purchased standard generators. So, I am perplexed. Do any of you here have experience using generators in power outages and are able to use your computer, charge your phones, run security systems with cameras and such? If so, what are your thoughts on this? Are Inverters mandatory? If not, do you use any buffering or anything to protect sensitive electronics or is that even necessary? Thanks for your thoughts!

If I was installing a standby generator I would make sure it is capable of charging EVs. You want to future proof your system. I am full EV now, but at some point you might end up with a EV or plug in hybrid. With all the storms, getting gas is not easy as the stations with generators end up with long lines. If you have a plug in hybrid or EV with a standby generator you will be golden.

I believe you need a true sine wave generator.

This will also be a mod that increases the value of your home.
 
We are purchasing a portable stand-by generator for possible power outages during storm season. I have read about Inverter generators that produce certain sine waves suitable for computers and other sensitive electronics. But, I also have several friends who also have computers and such, that have purchased standard generators. So, I am perplexed. Do any of you here have experience using generators in power outages and are able to use your computer, charge your phones, run security systems with cameras and such? If so, what are your thoughts on this? Are Inverters mandatory? If not, do you use any buffering or anything to protect sensitive electronics or is that even necessary? Thanks for your thoughts!
I have a 30 amp legal generator inlet. I think it's an L14-30. During Covid I bought a Champion Open Frame Inverter 8500 starting watts/7000 running watts. Since then I have made use of it as for whatever reason in the tri-state area, we have power outages. I will run everything in the house except the condensor units (which I have never tried, I'm assuming based on the current draw). There are better units and more powerful units out there since I bought mine, but the specs are under 3% THD for the sine wave. I've seen youtube videos, the sine wave is perfect.

It also has an eco speed and full speed, which results in fuel savings and noise. If you don't want a whole house automatic cutoff generator, an inverter generator will be compatible with sensitive stuff. Without the generator inlet you have to run extension cords.

As far as charging an EV, I haven't tried it yet, but theoretically it should work. There is only 30 amps of generator power to deal with - so I would have to charge @ 120. Or on 240 ratchet the amps down to 16 or less.

This post shows the setup: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/gas-generators-for-the-home-merged.1592348/post-31872890
 
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If I was installing a standby generator I would make sure it is capable of charging EVs. You want to future proof your system. I am full EV now, but at some point you might end up with a EV or plug in hybrid. With all the storms, getting gas is not easy as the stations with generators end up with long lines. If you have a plug in hybrid or EV with a standby generator you will be golden.

I believe you need a true sine wave generator.

This will also be a mod that increases the value of your home.
Thanks, but does not apply to my situation. No EVs or plans for such. Concerned with security system, computer, charging phones, appliances, lighting, water heater and water pump (well).
 
I have a 30 amp legal generator inlet. I think it's an L14-30. During Covid I bought a Champion Open Frame Inverter 8500 starting watts/7000 running watts. Since then I have made use of it as for whatever reason in the tri-state area, we have power outages. I will run everything in the house except the condensor units (which I have never tried, I'm assuming based on the current draw). There are better units and more powerful units out there since I bought mine, but the specs are under 3% THD for the sine wave. I've seen youtube videos, the sine wave is perfect.

It also has an eco speed and full speed, which results in fuel savings and noise. If you don't want a whole house automatic cutoff generator, an inverter generator will be compatible with sensitive stuff. Without the generator inlet you have to run extension cords.

As far as charging an EV, I haven't tried it yet, but theoretically it should work. There is only 30 amps of generator power to deal with - so I would have to charge @ 120. Or on 240 ratchet the amps down to 16 or less.

This post shows the setup: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/gas-generators-for-the-home-merged.1592348/post-31872890
Thanks. We have a 30 amp generator inlet and are upgrading it to 50 amp soon. Yeah, I do not want a whole house automatic standby. Priced them and discussed with a local representative. Too expensive and dubious local service. So, we are approaching this differently.
 
We recently had a standby natural gas Generac generator installed, $14k. I remember when you could install one for about $9-10k… Overpriced, but deemed a worthy convenience. If you go down this road, get multiple quotes. Lowe’s, though a sub-contractor had the best price. Another company wanted $18k for the exact same setup. 😳
 
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