So you want the camera to do something it was not designed to do. So what? That's why there are product spec sheets and why there are very reputable photography and smartphone websites that do extensive camera testing. It was known from the beginning that this model does not excel in macro focus situations. Buying one in the hopes that it will magically start taking the macro shots you desire will not change that.
My car is incapable of pulling a 2-ton trailer. Does the car suck? No, it's a great car for what it is. If I wanted to pull a 2-ton trailer, I should have bought a different car.
Speaking as someone who has been a serious photographer for over 50 years (and a professional for some of those years)... Every camera has its strengths and weaknesses. The Leica rangefinders of my youth (like the historic/classic M3), no matter how well-made and capable, absolutely suck for macro photography. Why? Because even if it has a lens capable of focusing to a couple of inches, the rangefinder focusing system does not focus to that distance, and the parallax present in all rangefinders means you can't accurately frame the photo. Proper macro focusing/composition requires through-the-lens viewing - that could be done using a totally old-school 4x5 or 8x10 view camera, a film SLR, or any digital with an electronic display that has a lens suited to the task.
Another basic truth about modern macro photography is that most cameras today include autofocus. Autofocus works really well when you're farther from the subject matter, but a fundamental weakness is that when the camera chooses the subject of sharpest focus it may not be choosing the subject that the photographer prefers. That choice of focus point becomes much more important in macro photography - do you want the closest tip of the nearest flower petal in sharpest focus, or do you want the focus to be somewhere in the middle of the flower petal, or...? iPhone, like most smartphone cameras, does allow you to manually select the point of sharpest focus (even for macro) but you have to know to use it. That's the difference between owning a camera and being a photographer.
Another key factor in macro photography is depth-of-focus/depth-of-field. The closer you get, the shorter the depth of focus. Photographers compensate for that (to the degree they can) by using a smaller aperture. Smaller aperture requires slower shutter speed, which leads to the need to steady the camera (tripod, traditionally). Even the best OIS (optical image stabilization) can't do as well as a tripod and remote shutter release (having both OIS and tripod is a nice thing). The nice thing is, I have an Apple Watch, which provides remote shutter release for my iPhone.
Shooting with flash (even in broad daylight) can be a necessity in macro work. Selecting a small aperture (to enhance depth of focus) may demand flash if you don't have a tripod, and sometimes even when you do have one. Again, knowing when and how to use that flash is the difference between owning a camera and being a photographer.
But I have a different approach to shooting with my iPhone X, and it's a philosophy that applies to all the cameras I've ever had - use the tool best-suited for the job. Every camera I've used has its particular strengths and weaknesses, and those factors affect the style and type of photos I take with that camera.
Rather than fight the weaknesses or take shots that just aren't going to work out, I use each camera to its best advantage. I have a very different style when I shoot with my iPhone than when I use my "good" camera and the style with my good camera is affected by which lens I have attached. I've been lucky and taken some very nice shots of nearby roosting birds with my iPhone, but since it has a 50mm-equivalent "telephoto" lens that kind of shot is very hard to get. I have several long telephoto lenses for my good camera, which makes it far better suited for wildlife and sports. iPhone is better for social photography and wide-angle scenics/landscapes. It doesn't mean I won't get down on my belly in the grass for an occasional flower macro with that iPhone, but it's not going to be a super close-up (which it can't do anyway).
I have the iPhone with me at all times, so I take far more shots with that than any other camera. When I intend to take "serious" shots when traveling/hiking I'm going to load my backpack with "good" camera, lenses, tripod and other accessories. Having that particular rig means most of my shots end up being "thoughtful," careful compositions rather than quick grabs. If I'm out hiking with a group I have to limit the number I times I stop to haul out that gear, compose, then wait for the desired lighting. In most cases I end up using both my good camera and my iPhone. iPhone for the spur-of-the-moment shots, good camera for the set-shots (unless it's spur-of-the-moment wildlife, in which case I hope I have my telephoto on the good camera, rather than the macro).
I have taken totally wonderful photos with my iPhones. They are not as technically perfect as they might have been with a "proper" camera, but they're more than good enough to wow the people who view them - whatever technical weaknesses exist are not enough to detract from the impact of the composition, lighting, subject matter, etc. The photos communicate, which is the most important thing.
So you can't tell me a particular camera "sucks" simply because it can't take extreme close-ups. All you can say is that it sucks for taking extreme close-ups. Take different kinds of photos, and if you must take extreme close ups, get a camera and lenses that are well-suited to the task.