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Khadam

macrumors newbie
Jan 25, 2020
27
7
I have the same issue. I thought ir was because i have a 2 antenna airport card, so i didn't bring it up, but i guess the problem is somewhere else. Maybe not enough power?

I think that problem sorted itself out. I had my iMac turned off for a night and when I was in high school. After I came back home and turned it on BT worked much better (my mouse and keyboard were connected much quicker) and lag seems to be gone for now. I need to test it again, this time for longer period of time to be sure. It might also be an antenna. I removed the old one and sticked a new one which looks basically like a thick tin foil with a wire...I placed it exactly where the old one was.
 

jborko

macrumors regular
Jan 17, 2011
188
114
For the lag - You need to check if the antenna is properly installed. I had the same lag until I verified my antenna connections and ensured that the keyboard and the mouse RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indicator - Option + Click on the Bluetooth menu bar icon to see signal strengths is -60 or better - initially it was in the -80 area)
 

Nikolai Strimban

macrumors newbie
Jan 22, 2020
5
0
Hi guys, I have problem, and I hope u can help me with it.
So: I installed k1100m into my 2010 iMac 21.5 and it is working, so I tried to install Catalina, and I also succeeded, but there is no transparency, and when I drag windows it is so glitchy! What should I do to fix it?
Thanks a lot!!!
 

Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
Hi guys, I have problem, and I hope u can help me with it.
So: I installed k1100m into my 2010 iMac 21.5 and it is working, so I tried to install Catalina, and I also succeeded, but there is no transparency, and when I drag windows it is so glitchy! What should I do to fix it?
Thanks a lot!!!
Hey, you installed the dosdude video patches - reinstall and disable auto patching in the options menu of the patcher, add patches later deselecting the video patch. All this could be read on the first page of the correct thread :)
 

herrdude

macrumors 6502
Feb 15, 2009
406
304
Montreal
This is a short guide, only.
Tools: Everything to open an iMac, a simple 10W solder iron to connect three cables.

You will get AirDrop, Handoff and Continuity, you are going to loose the Internet recovery via WIFI. Use a LAN cable directly connected to a router in that case. (Is there a way to change the EFI to support the new WIFI module in such a case?)

Today I managed to install and activate both a BCM94360CD, and a BCM94331CD. I had to solder the three D+/D-/3.3V cables on my own because China cannot deliver right now everything at any time - Corona infects the computer industry, too. I ripped the old connector in parts, not reason to go back and when, I will buy a new cable.

You need the 3.3V line *only* to make sure that BT is still working when disabling WIFI in the system pref pane.

I used the guides from the following posts

#120 and #269 (where do I exactly get the D+/D-/3.3V signal from and which parts in general do I need)

and for patching in one single step (first do the disable SIP and mount command)

#273 (use of the Continuity-Activation-Tool works even with Catalina, but does not the complete job)

#275 (cheating Apple's blacklist to lock out old models)

Start your Terminal and enter the following commands to do the steps mentioned in the former posts:

1. check for SIP enabled, if enabled, please search the web how to disable SIP on a Mac, probably check this in advance. On Catalina systems installed with Dosdude's Patcher SIP is disabled. You can go on to command #2.

Code:
csrutil status

2. make root filesystem writeable to change config

Code:
sudo mount -uw / ; killall Finder

3. run the Continuity-Activation-Tool script in terminal after download to your Downloads folder:

Code:
sudo ~/Downloads/Continuity-Activation-Tool-beta/Continuity\ Activation\ Tool.app/Contents/Resources/contitool.sh

4. get your iMacs board-id (the input if command #5 has to be changed according to the output of your result)

Code:
ioreg -l | grep board-id | awk -F\" '{ print $4 }'
Mac-942B59F58194171B

5. cheat Apple by changing it's black list, enter YOUR board-id, not my Mac-942B59F58194171B

Code:
sudo /usr/libexec/PlistBuddy -c "Set:Mac-942B59F58194171B:ContinuitySupport true" "/System/Library/Frameworks/IOBluetooth.framework/Versions/A/Resources/SystemParameters.plist"

6. restart your Mac using the Menu->Restart

7. If for some reason on your older Mac the AirDrop does not show up in the Finder->Go menu try this:

Code:
defaults write com.apple.NetworkBrowser BrowseAllInterfaces -bool TRUE; killall Finder

8. sign out and in iCloud, again

The BCM94630CD (30 USD/EUR) is said to allow "Apple watch unlock" in addition to the features of the BCM94331CD (10 USD/EUR) which are Airdrop/Handoff/Continuity. I do not own an Apple watch.

Thank you, again!

What is the advantage of installing both cards? Does one replace the wi-fi and the other bluetooth? Would this card do the same thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/macOS-Hand...CM94360CD-802-11AC-Bluetooth-4-0/283549985440 ?

Inquiring minds want to know ;-).
 

Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
What is the advantage of installing both cards? Does one replace the wi-fi and the other bluetooth? Would this card do the same thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/macOS-Hand...CM94360CD-802-11AC-Bluetooth-4-0/283549985440 ?

Inquiring minds want to know ;-).
I tried both cards in two different machines. Unfortunately after a short while at least the (used and cheap) 94331 seems to be faulty. It does not activate the BT part once in a while on boot. The more expensive (used) 94360 works flawlessly. Your link shows exactly the type of adapter and 94360 card I used here, this card will be a used one, too.

You need a three line 50cm cable and a 50cm IPEX 4 antenna cable extension male to female additionally, alternatively you may use a new antenna for BT or use one of the tree WIFI antenna cables for BT. I have tested each case, you get slightly different damping values on your receiving WIFI signal.
 

Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
What exactly is the three-line 50cm cable?
What is a single/dual/three/ten line (flat) cable? You need three lines for D+/D-/3,3V. And you need a 50 cm (approx. 20 inch) antenna extension. Please read this not so very long forum thread and look for pictures there. Then you get a better idea of what I was writing about. I just put together the strings.
 

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dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
Problem solved - All continuity features including handoff and apple watch (I have a series 3) unlock work! See this thread for the solution. The specific application of this solution for my 2011 iMac 27 with a BCM94369CD from OSX WIFI installed and macOS Mojave 10.14.4 installed using the dosdude1 patcher is below:

In terminal get your board number using the following command: ioreg -l | grep "board-id" | awk -F\" '{print $4}'
For example my board number is: Mac-942B59F58194171B

Using TextEdit search for your board number (i.e. Mac-942B59F58194171B) and set flag to "true" in: /System/Library/Frameworks/IOBluetooth.framework/Versions/A/Resources/SystemParameters.plist

Note: First copy SystemParameters.plist to your desktop, edit it, and then copy it back into the /System/Library/Frameworks/IOBluetooth.framework/Versions/A/Resources/ folder. Keep a backup copy of the original SystemParameters.plist file in case you need to revert back to the original

Then perform these two commands in Terminal:
sudo -E perl -pi -e "s/\Mac-00BE6ED71E35EB86/\Mac-942B59F58194171B/" /System/Library/Extensions/IO80211Family.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AirPortBrcm4360.kext/Contents/MacOS/AirPortBrcm4360
sudo -E perl -pi -e "s/\Mac-00BE6ED71E35EB86/\Mac-942B59F58194171B/" /System/Library/Extensions/IO80211Family.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AirPortBrcmNIC.kext/Contents/MacOS/AirPortBrcmNIC

In system preferences/general: Uncheck "Allow Handoff between this Mac and your iCloud devices"

Reboot

In system preferences/general: Check "Allow Handoff between this Mac and your iCloud devices"

Reboot

Did that and it works flawlessly, but I had to keep SIP disabled or partially enabled (csrutil enable --without kext).
Any way to sign kext files so I can fully enable SIP?
 

dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
Well, today I tried "csrutil enable" and it worked! Somehow those kext permissions were repaired; maybe while doing those High Sierra security updates?
 

Marsupio

macrumors newbie
Mar 22, 2020
28
5
thanks for your tips, i follow it and successfully make my iMac 2011 27" work , so happy now
i got my full kit at this shop , and work like a charm :D

Any other user of the local338 kit ? Less expensive than OSXWifi but still quite expensive and antennas connectors "face down".
 

dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
I am using a similar adaptor (which I had to modify to give it USB connectivity).
No problems with antennas connectors facing backwards.
 

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B0gdan

macrumors newbie
Apr 23, 2018
2
0
I am using a similar adaptor (which I had to modify to give it USB connectivity).
No problems with antennas connectors facing backwards.
Sorry for my question: Why does adapter need the USB connectivity. I see a lot of adapters and some, not all, have the 3 pins, but I can't find information on what their purpose and where do you connect them. Is this something I need to use to make sure I can do unlock with Apple Watch?

Another question: Anyone had experience plugging Broadcom BCM943602CDP card? The bluetooth 4.2 version. Is it compatible with mid 2011 27 iMac and will it give you all the features when installing Catalina?
 
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Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
The third 3.3V line is just necessary to avoid shutdown of BT when you disable WIFI in the system pref pane. With this line the BT part of the card can work while you effectively disabled the power source of the complete card. Somewhere in this thread you find this info...I just copied it from memory.
 

dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
Salut Bogdan,

You need USB connection as USB pins are not connected on the mainboard socket. Therefore, you have to use the same cable that goes to the original BT card. I also cut the trace that connects the 2 power lines (BT and WiFi) on the adapter so I can enable/disable them independently.

You need both BT and WiFi enabled for "unlock with Apple Watch", so you actually don't need that power connection if you plan to keep them enabled at all times (but you still need USB data connections D+ and D-).

I am using Broadcom BCM94360CD card under MacOS High Sierra, and I have full functionality (2011 iMac). Broadcom BCM943602CDP should work as well.

Dragos
 

cbosdell

macrumors newbie
Feb 22, 2020
8
4
So I bought the following card off eBay since it advertised easy install but apparently isn't as easy as they claim.


I had an issue with the stock Bluetooth where it would constantly connect/disconnect devices every few seconds so my Apple Keyboard and Magic Mouse wouldn't be usable. To fix that I have been using a USB Bluetooth 4.0 adapter which was working fine before I installed this card. I hoped replacing the built in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth would solve the disconnect issue and add Sidecar.

Once installed in the iMac 2011 27" Wi-Fi is upgraded to ac and Bluetooth is showing as 4.0 with Sidecar and Handoff options in settings but it's not allowing me to find an iPad on the same network to start sidecar. Also the bluetooth constant disconnect/reconnect issue is persisting.

Does anyone have any idea if removing the stock bluetooth card would help solve the Bluetooth issues? Although I'm guessing I would have to find a way to extend the bluetooth antenna cable across the motherboard to plug into the new card? I tried asking the seller for support and they told me "And you need to wilding a Bluetooth ware to connect with it that the adapter showed D+ and D-. and no instructions came with the device as advertised. Thanks for any advice.
 

Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
Hi!

A while ago I connected the strings of this not too long thread and posted my little installation guide on page 12 . There you find all the pictures and instructions linked there to do the soldering with the right cables.

Ans yes, you have to sacrifice the old module, at least the cable since exactly this gives you the D+/D- lines and the 3.3V if you want BT do be independent of WIFI. I am asking myself where you are getting the signals from right now??

You cannot have two BT modules active in the system at the same time, there is an Apple software solution to switch back and force, but this is another story. And you can also chose one BT card permanently.

IPEX-4 20 inch antenna expansion is the thing you are looking, for. You can also take one of the three WIFI antennas and connect it to the new BT cards port.

Coming back to Sidecar: I own a iPad Pro but I also never managed to get it connected to this machine using a BCM94360CD card. I never even spend more than 5 minutes in it, though. Not a deep space exploration, I must admit.
 
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dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
Regarding BT antenna: I bought a set of antennas (from a disassembled iMac) on eBay and used one WiFi antenna (that has the longest cable - the low left side one IIRC).
 

Pascal Baillargeau

macrumors 6502
Mar 4, 2019
342
304
France
I made a first try with BCM94360CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.
WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth.
I made a second try with BCM94331CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.

On the two tries, WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth. ( I inverted too D+ and D-, you never know)

I assumed D+ and D- can be picked from the place i want, they are common signals. Am i correct?
Maybe old bluetooth is always registered and i have to clean NVRAM from bluetooth related lines, as i read in this thread?
I reverted to native config for now, i'd prefer to have new clues before opening again the iMac, opening it one time a day is good exercise, by the way.?
 

jborko

macrumors regular
Jan 17, 2011
188
114
I made a first try with BCM94360CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.
WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth.
I made a second try with BCM94331CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.

On the two tries, WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth. ( I inverted too D+ and D-, you never know)

I assumed D+ and D- can be picked from the place i want, they are common signals. Am i correct?
Maybe old Bluetooth is always registered and i have to clean NVRAM from bluetooth related lines, as i read in this thread?
I reverted to native config for now, i'd prefer to have new clues before opening again the iMac, opening it one time a day is good exercise, by the way.?

Out of the 2 cards I had one had a faulty Bluetooth. On the one that worked, I also messed up D+/D- first time but then I inverted and all was ok since... The second card which had faulty Bluetooth I sent back for a replacement.

During my installation, I always switched off the original Bluetooth module, and also I took the D+ and D- straight from the Bluetooth cable. I think in one of the previous posts someone replied that you cannot have 2 devices on the same D+/D- 3.3.V line (so perhaps you want to try to do it without the SD card being connected too?!)

I also made a fully reversible solution where I used the connector (took it out) from spare original Bluetooth card to create an extension cable to the new adapter for the BCM94331CD
 
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Ausdauersportler

macrumors 603
Nov 25, 2019
5,007
5,826
I made a first try with BCM94360CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.
WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth.
I made a second try with BCM94331CD. Connected D+, D-, 3.3v from SDcard connector. Unplugged native bluetooth card.

On the two tries, WIFI is working, but not Bluetooth. ( I inverted too D+ and D-, you never know)

I assumed D+ and D- can be picked from the place i want, they are common signals. Am i correct?
Maybe old bluetooth is always registered and i have to clean NVRAM from bluetooth related lines, as i read in this thread?
I reverted to native config for now, i'd prefer to have new clues before opening again the iMac, opening it one time a day is good exercise, by the way.?

Good morning!

Currently I do not know how your problem can be solved. From China I got ten cards, three of them had a faulty BT module. But you may face a different problem, since you got your lines from the SD card and probably the old BT module is still active?

You can pull the plug of this module to deactivate it permantely, use the cable to get the signals (same result) or use a software to switch between both modules if both are still connected to an antenna...

I added a new optional step 9 to my guide here. You will find there how to select one particular out of two installed and working modules.
 

Pascal Baillargeau

macrumors 6502
Mar 4, 2019
342
304
France
Hi Ausdauersportler,

I added a new optional step 9 to my guide here. You will find there how to select one particular out of two installed and working modules.

I will try first this software as i feel and hope it could be that the old bluetooth card, even unplugged, should have stayed activated in NVRAM, as i rebooted immediately without SMC and NVRAM reset.
 

xanderon

macrumors regular
Dec 22, 2019
145
105
@Ausdauersportler

If you are from Germany, where did you buy the bt antenna extension cable? I need one for 2011 iMac but China is not willing to send it to me since months because of corona.

Thanks for a hint
 
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dac610

macrumors member
Mar 26, 2020
59
13
Hello there, I have two BT antenna extension cables of about 60 cm each. I can send them from Romania, if anyone wants them. @xanderon
 
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