Couple of things to add:
Firstly... see here:
#27
For an interesting thread with further info about using
FOUR screens at once (2016 MBP 15" + Samsung 1080p TV + 2x LG 5K's) — TL;DR: basically one of the 5K's drops down to 4K and scales up to 5K.
Secondly...
While doing that test, I used the "Export EDID" option in SwitchResX prefs for each connected display. And guess what it showed for my new two LG 5K with manufacture date (printed on the box & back of display) as
702 / February 2017:
"
Manufactured........Week 2 of year 2017"
View attachment 692406
(see attached both LG 5K's .txt files for yourself!)
So what does yours show? Does this actually mean
month 2, rather than
week 2, one wonders?!
The plot thickens.
To reply to myself here, I'm guessing that the date listed here ("
Manufactured........Week 2 of year 2017") is possibly the date the internal LCD panel component was manufactured, rather than the date the whole display was manufactured. It's a guess, but seems reasonably logical conclusion.
What do you other guys get?
SwitchResX is a free download, so perhaps give it try for yourselves. ;-)
http://www.madrau.com
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If you unclip the display stand and look at the back of the display, it will show you the manufacture date month and year on the label. My new displays are 702 serial numbers and say "February 2017" here. They also both have the black square on the label. My 701 displays both said "January 2017" on the label and had neither a black square nor a black circle.
Diffs on mine:
- a black square in the white barcode serial# box.
- the text serial# is now in the same white box with the barcode serial#.
- the 'Rev' is slightly different "
REV00-1" (612) vs. "
REV01" (702).
(I don't seem to have a
black circle anywhere...?)
Like this:
------------ 612's -------------------------------------- vs. ---------------- 702's ----------------------------
(note: the serial # and barcode has been partially redacted.)
I am reliably informed (don't ask how) that you need to remove 4 black screws from inside the VESA cover area and then using a plastic card of some kind (old credit card or similar) you need to pop a few catches around the perimeter of where the bezel meets the rear cover. These catches are shaped with ramps to allow the card to ride over them provided you come at them from the correct side. The best sequence appears to be from behind the camera towards each corner (ie. outward from the middle to each top corner). Then on the side you need to slide the card from top to bottom. The catches on the bottom edge do not have ramps so they just need to be carefully popped. Patience is essential here.
Once the rear cover is removed, in order to get access to the main circuit boards you will need to remove a further 7 black screws and disconnect the video card cables and what is probably a backlight cable in order to lift off the entire inner enclosure and speakers. This will expose potentially dangerous residual mains voltages so great care is required. The display cables are also very easily damaged so again care required.
To be honest, I would advise against attempting this unless you are experienced at this sort of disassembly.
I hope this is of interest. I'm surprised we've not seen a tear down by iFixit or someone by now.
Thanks Craig.
Erm, yeah, I did take the four short black screws out easily enough. But unclipping the front I found too difficult so gave up, as I thought I'd only end-up damaging them. I've done similar things before (e.g. adding a drive to a 2012 Mac Mini, et al., which can be quite fiddly) but really couldn't be bothered to take this any further.
iFixit, its over to you, haha!