what is wrong with the screen? Do you have a picture?I change the WLED now i have got backlight but screen don't work properly anymore, My plan is to change the cable.
what is wrong with the screen? Do you have a picture?I change the WLED now i have got backlight but screen don't work properly anymore, My plan is to change the cable.
HI,
after successfully install viewing the board not sure yet how to use it but will keep searching...
about the reading I have on the WLED:
Pin1: 0 (ground)
pin 2: ~1K
pin 3: ~127.5K
pin 4:~100k going down to 80K
pin5 :0 (ground)
pin6 :1 (on diode 2k reading: 0.933)
pin7 :1
pin8: 23.4K
pin9 :0 (ground)
pin10 :25.4K
pin 11: 25.4K
pin12: 1
pin13: 1
pin14: 1
pin15: 0 (ground)
pin16: 1
pin17: 1
pin18: 1
pin19: 1
pin 20: 0 (ground)
pin 21: 1
pin22: ~74.6
pin23: ~7M going down to 0.42M
pin24: ~0.41M
that the reading I had by having the black probe on ground and red one on the Pin.
in the reading 1 i believe mean the circuit is open so there no resistance I think (I have try to change the multi mitre setting from: 200 to 20M (it goes like that: 200-2K-20K-200K-2M-20M)
Tomorrow will work on it again hope it will bring clues.
Good night all
Do you have a picture? Also, the "R005" is not an item on the board. It should be 5 digits.Hey guys, sorry if i resurrected a dead thread or not but i have an issues trying to locate a part on my 820-2936-b logic board, its the small IC labeled |CFT in between the mounting screw and the R005 by the screen output cable. My macbook got a little wet and the back light is dead and this little guy is the only thing damaged. its missing two pins....any one know what this thing is? i know there is another on the opposing side but i still cant find apart number to replace it with..
I have a thread about my display problem, but this thread seems semi-related.
I have the "spotlight" blotches at the bottom of my display. I assume it's the LED.
Is this a problem with the display? The connector? The LVDS cable?
I'd figure I'd consult you guys before buying parts
Those last three pins are the backlight pins so at a minimum you need to replace the LVDS cable. You also need to look inside the LVDS connector because it is possible that the interior pins are also corroded or plastic melted in that corresponding connection.
The fuse is identified in my attachment. That is likely blown.
Those last three pins are the backlight pins so at a minimum you need to replace the LVDS cable. You also need to look inside the LVDS connector because it is possible that the interior pins are also corroded or plastic melted in that corresponding connection.
The fuse is identified in my attachment. That is likely blown.
EXPERTS! Please would love some help.
Spilt coke on my 2011 17" MBP which subsequently stopped working at all. I pulled it completely to bits, cleaned the logic board and everything else, and let it dry for a week. I put it back together and all is working except for the backlight...
I thought that the little parts with blobs on them were damaged, but I see some photos on here have similar blobs. Which part should I be investigating and trying to replace?
Thanks so much in advance!
You see the small brown component with a "P" on it near the fan? That is the backlight fuse. Start by testing if that is blown (i.e. high resistance). It should be zero ohms if ok.
Ok please tell me how to do this. I assume I need a multimeter, then what do I do?
Thanks heaps!
Unplug battery. Unplug MagSafe. Use meter in resistance measurement mode. Place black lead on one end and the red lead on the other end of the component. Meter will read either very high resistance megaohms or it will read close to zero ohms. Megaohms is bad. Zero ohms is good. If fuse is still good then the other reasons for no backlight will require someone with electronic diagnostics skills to proceed further. Good luck.
Unplug battery. Unplug MagSafe. Use meter in resistance measurement mode. Place black lead on one end and the red lead on the other end of the component. Meter will read either very high resistance megaohms or it will read close to zero ohms. Megaohms is bad. Zero ohms is good. If fuse is still good then the other reasons for no backlight will require someone with electronic diagnostics skills to proceed further. Good luck.