"So my friend and I were able to get my MacBook running on mountain lion. It seemed to be running great again until the next day when it started loading super slow again. Even when I finally get onto my desktop screen, you can’t load anything. Is this MacBook just completely done for?"
This is the "unibody" type with the DVD drive on the right side, is this correct?
Your symptoms indicate that you might have an internal drive ribbon cable going bad on you.
This is a VERY common failure on 2012 MacBook Pros.
When the cable gets flaky (wears on sharp edges, etc.), it can seem like the internal drive slows down or completely quits, because communications between the drive and the motherboard are affected.
Replacing the cable clears up the problems.
You can go to ifixit.com to see what's involved. Not really difficult, hardest part is removing/replacing all the screws on the back cover.
You'll need a Phillips #00 driver.
You can get the cable part number from ifixit (they sell it, too).
Or... buy it online (ebay or elsewhere).
I'll bet this clears things up for you.
One other thing...
If the internal drive is still the original platter-based hard drive, you might consider picking up a CHEAP 2.5" SATA SSD (256 or 512gb) and replace that, too. I like Crucial or Sandisk. DON'T spend much money.
Then, "clone over" the contents of the old drive (or start fresh).
You'll need a TORX T-6 to take the bosses off the old drive and put them onto the SSD. Can also be done (VERY gently) with needle-nose pliers if you're careful.
I would recommend buying a USB3 2.5" SATA enclosure and putting the old drive into it. It can then be a backup or scratch storage, etc.
Good luck.
This is the "unibody" type with the DVD drive on the right side, is this correct?
Your symptoms indicate that you might have an internal drive ribbon cable going bad on you.
This is a VERY common failure on 2012 MacBook Pros.
When the cable gets flaky (wears on sharp edges, etc.), it can seem like the internal drive slows down or completely quits, because communications between the drive and the motherboard are affected.
Replacing the cable clears up the problems.
You can go to ifixit.com to see what's involved. Not really difficult, hardest part is removing/replacing all the screws on the back cover.
You'll need a Phillips #00 driver.
You can get the cable part number from ifixit (they sell it, too).
Or... buy it online (ebay or elsewhere).
I'll bet this clears things up for you.
One other thing...
If the internal drive is still the original platter-based hard drive, you might consider picking up a CHEAP 2.5" SATA SSD (256 or 512gb) and replace that, too. I like Crucial or Sandisk. DON'T spend much money.
Then, "clone over" the contents of the old drive (or start fresh).
You'll need a TORX T-6 to take the bosses off the old drive and put them onto the SSD. Can also be done (VERY gently) with needle-nose pliers if you're careful.
I would recommend buying a USB3 2.5" SATA enclosure and putting the old drive into it. It can then be a backup or scratch storage, etc.
Good luck.
