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Since you're looking for a recommendation. Panamax, problem solved.

http://panamax.com/Products/Default.aspx

Monster sells their s on smokes and mirrors. I watched a Monster device
get hit repeatedly with strikes and went up and smoke while the Panamax did it's job.

Noel Lee is a complete donkey and sells by marketing. It's just like BOSE
Better sound through marketing.
 
A cheap plug-in protector did save my TV from a nasty surge that wiped out some other unprotected stuff. It fried solid and stank, but it stopped the surge.
IOW that surge was so small as to not harm the TV, but vaporized the protector? Or the protector earthed that surge destructively through appliances on the other side of the room or house. Or other appliances earthed enough surge that the TV's internal protection was sufficient. But the surge was still large enough to destroy the scam protector.

What have you done? Recommend a protector that did nothing useful. Assumed by not learning the science and by using only observation. Observation not tempered by fundamental knowledge is classic junk science reasoning.

You don't know anything without tracing the surge's path. My posts come from decades of doing just that.

Observation without specific technical details and no numbers is classic junk science. First paragraph includes possibilities that were ignored. TV not damaged means the protector did something? So why was the dishwasher, bathroom GFCI, clock radio, doorbell, etc no damaged? Why did you analysis ignore other facts? What protected them? Invisible surge protectors?

Your reasoning must also say why other appliances also were not damage. Otherwise, the conclusion is junk science - the same logic that also proved childhood leukemia was created by electric wires. Ignoring other data (ie other undamaged appliances without protectors) to make a conclusion is junk science.

My surge protector sacrificed itself to save my TV. Reality. If the protector fried, then TV's internal protection saved that TV. How many other appliances performed as earthed protectors for that TV?

Finally - protection is always about where energy dissipates. Energy was permitted inside the building. Therefore no effective protection existed. It is that simple - even proven 100 years ago. Either a surge current is dissipated harmlessly in earth. Or interior damage is directly traceable to human failure.

Effective protector costs about $1 per protected appliance. How much was the 'so called' cheap protector? $20? Then it was twenty times more expensive - and you still had appliance damage. Either energy is dissipated harmlessly in earth - or effective protection does not exist. That cheap power strip had no earth ground. Did exactly what its manufacturer claimed - ineffective protection.

No way around this fundamental principle: A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Why do I post reality - and then another post promotes the same scam? Effective protection (that costs so much less money) means no surge energy inside the building. Based upon so many posts in this thread, one can conclude they were smarter 100 years ago.

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. How many more scam protectors without earthing will be promoted only on hearsay or observation?

Since you're looking for a recommendation. Panamax, problem solved.
panamax.com
Where is a manufacturer numeric spec that claims any protection? Panamax makes no such claim. Exampled: another post promotes Panamax - and does not even say why. Classic example of a scam: recommendation without even one technical fact.

Panamax does not claim protection. How to identify the Panamax (ie Furman) as ineffective? 1) No dedicated wire for that short connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer will not even discuss earthing.

Will you spend $25 or $100+ for Panamax products that do not even claim that protection? Or spend $1 per protected appliance for the solution that is effective? That Panamax is same as the Monster Cable. May even earth a surge destructively through appliances in that room. Or create scary pictures - potential fire.

Panamax has no earthing and a massive profit margin. But again, he posted only what he was told to believe. Never even learned this science: A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Respectfully, I said that EVERY major brand has a warranty and said nothing about specific manufacturers' warranties or warranty amounts (I don't even know what they are). The gist of my recommendations, however, is I'd consider a power-saving surge protector if you're going to buy a new one. It's better for your wallet and the environment. ...
Calm down and first learn the facts. Rants about protectors that do not even claim protection accomplish nothing.

Show us these big buck warranties on Polyphaser protectors. Polyphaser has been an industry benchmark probably longer than PCs existed. Where are the big buck warranties on every Polyphaser product?

Listed were manufacturers of effective protectors. You claim every one has a big buck warranty. Well here again is the list. According to you, every 'whole house' protector has a big buck warranty: General Electric, Siemens, Square D, Cutler-Hammer, Intermatic, Clipsal, Leviton, or Keison.

Only warranty is equivalent to what comes with a car battery. Warranty says nothing about the product's quality or usefulness. Since protection is the discussion, then why equate a warranty with protection? Ineffective protectors have the largest warranty. Free market experience says the worst protectors provide no technical specifications and promote a big buck (rarely honored) warranty. Circuits equivalents to Monster Cable include Panamax, APC, Tripplite, and Belkin.

Install one 'whole house' protector so that even direct lightning strikes cause no appliance damage. One 'whole house' protector does what 100 plug-in protectors (one on every appliance) cannot accomplish. The superior solution means even lesser surges (or falling trees) also cause no damage.

A 'whole house' protector is only secondary protection. Too often not known by plug-in protector 'promoters' is primary surge protection. Informed homeowners waste no money on ineffective protector AND inspect the primary protection system:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

Best power saving device does same without any protector components - for significantly less money. Better power saving device is an appliance that includes power factor compensation and meets (and exceeds) California Energy Commission requirements. (Obvously others who leave it on due to reliability myths need not consider any such solution.)
 
Now you just sound like you need to rant, you might want to look into what the product does. It's not a surge protector in the sense of a power strip. It has a voltage monitor that continuously monitors the incoming voltage. If the voltage is too low or too high it shuts the power off from the isolated banks. Thus protecting your equipment.

Last time I checked, I don't recall seeing you next to me when I watched a comparable Monster product get hit repeatedly with high voltage and it went up and smoke and the Panamax would shut down the banks to protect the connected high end equipment. Call me crazy, but maybe this thread should be closed since someone obviously feels they didn't get enough me time in this thread.

Better yet, since you understand the engineering, build the product, stamp your name on it, and sell it to the masses, then the problem is really solved.

Until then we get the point you don't want one or need one, that's your preference. I prefer to use what I have, since I saw it in action not once but twice and the second time was in my own home. The op asked for a recommendation, all I did was provide one. I don't need to waste my energy providing a detailed and scientific explanation. All I know is the sh*t works from first hand experience. Period.

So guess what.....your opinion and mine is just like, well you know the saying.

Maybe this might help out, and this is what is in my unit. I too can provide links, and with video to help you out.

http://www.furmansound.com/page.php?div=01&id=SMP
 
I agree with Cluv. I have seen the Panamax and the Monster in action. Hands down, Panamax. Panamax units are designed to take only so many strikes, and then they shut down, and kill power to everything. And when that happens, (outside of warranty) you can call them up, and they will sell you a new one, for half retail. I had a customer upgrade like 4 levels because of that generous upgrade.

Panamax's only business is power protection. In my opinion, the only reason Monster got into that game, was because Panamax was successful with there products.

Monster has made some decent products in the past. But, it takes high margins, and increasing product lines to make sure Noel Lee's Segway is charged, and his fleet of Ferraris, Lambos, and other exotics are well taken care of.

Why else did they branch into amplifiers, remotes, furniture, speakers, power centers,,, etc....

LOL.
 
It's not a surge protector in the sense of a power strip. It has a voltage monitor that continuously monitors the incoming voltage. If the voltage is too low or too high it shuts the power off from the isolated banks. Thus protecting your equipment.
So it does what is already inside every appliance. IOW it does nothing useful ... for how much money?

But again, where are the numeric specs? How much is too high or too low? That is the lesson from Saddam's WMDs. You are posting subjectively. Therefore I can only assume you are either lying or simply deceived. Your post must include numbers to have credibility.

Voltage variations are destructive mostly where myths are blindly believed. That is also why so many recommend plug-in protectors. They are told what to believe without any facts or numbers.

Voltages variation is destructive to motorized appliances. Electric motors can be adversely affected when AC voltage drops well below 5%. Meanwhile, an ideal voltage for any electronics is 20%. What happens when voltage drops significantly more - maybe 30%? The appliance simply turns off.

Electronics are designed to operate on large voltage variations. Utility voltage by more than 5% because that is destructive to electric motors. 20% voltage variations are perfectly acceptable - ideal - for electronics. What are you spending so much money to protect from? A myth? You are expected to know these numbers before recommending a UPS. And provide those numbers in the post.

Why are you spending so much money to do what electronics make irrelevant? Many hear myths of destructive low voltage. Don't ask why. Automatically believe what they were ordered to believe. That is the lesson from Saddam's WMDs. No numbers or supporting facts. Subjective claims suggest junk science or outright lies.

Meanwhile, the discussion is about Monster Cable and other equivalent scams. Why does your surge protector suddenly do no surge protection? Now your surge protector protects from voltages that are not destructive? Where are you going with these subjective claims - opinions not supported by any numbers or the science?

Use what you have. Your choice. But when you encourage others to be scammed, then a reply is required. Especially when you make subjective (junk science) claims and when you do not quote the manufacturer spec numbers. Low voltage is completely irrelevant to this discussion. Low voltage is destructive to electronics when a scam is being promoted.

I agree with Cluv. I have seen the Panamax and the Monster in action. Hands down, Panamax. Panamax units are designed to take only so many strikes, and then they shut down, and kill power to everything.
Monster Cable and Panamax contain the same circuit. But somehow a Panamax does something different? You know that a Panamax somehow 'shuts down' and disconnects power? Strange. No switch inside to accomplish that. How does it kill power?

What is between the appliance and the Panamax power cord? Please, you know it is better. Then tell us what these electrical components are that count the strikes and then kill power. And post the manufacturer numeric specs that state that.

If you know, then you know what these components are, why they work, and provide the relevant numbers. Please, I am all ears. What is this circuit inside a Panamax that does not exist in the same protector from Monster?

I expect silence. Panamax makes no such claims in their spec numbers. And that is the point.
 
Obviously you need the attention, and it's apparent you can't figure out to click on a link or watch an embedded video. What? Am I'm over your head now? So I'll feed your ego one last time. Either show me a video to show me otherwise, or set up a demo for all of us to see. To also help you out Monster does not use the same circuit as seen in the video, it is proprietary to Panamax. Until then I got an idea for you **** until you either:

1. Make your own product
2. Produce a demo like the videos in the link
3. Set up a demo yourself to disapprove what I saw in the flesh
4. Admit you're jaded that Panamax passed on your "knowledge"
5. Most important gain some social skills (as displayed by your demeanor and highlighted by another visitor in an earlier post)

I expect you then to tell us that BOSE makes the best speakers ever and that I should do runs of lamp cord in my house for distributed audio. That CDs are better than vinyl, and AAC beats even CDs. I'll hold my breath for your infinite wisdom.

Anything else you want to impart from your subscription to Consumer Reports?
 
What? Am I'm over your head now? So I'll feed your ego one last time. Either show me a video to show me otherwise, or set up a demo for all of us to see.
If you *know*, then posted are what these components are, why they work, and provide the relevant numbers. Please, I am all ears. What is the relevant number? What is this circuit inside a Panamax that does not exist in the same protector from Monster? Not some subjective URL. Fill us with your knowledge. Which number makes that claim?

What do you do when challenged to post numeric specs? Insult. Nothing new. The most technically naive promote mythical *miracle* solutions. Then insult when they cannot back up their claims with spec numbers. You also claimed that low voltage is hardware destructive. A classic myth that also identifies the most technically naive. But the naive are Furman's sales targets.

You believed the first thing you were told. Never noticed spec numbers were missing. You were told to believe low voltage is destructive. It's called a strawman. Setup a myth. Then sell you a solution. You believed what you were ordered to believe. Never asked embarrassing questions such as "Where are those spec numbers?"

The topic is surge protection - which is not low voltage. Surges are high voltage - not low voltage. Why did you not know that? NIST said exactly what Panamax and Monster Cable protectors do. Could the NIST be any less obvious?
> The best surge protection in the world can be useless if grounding is not done properly.

Reality and 100 years of experience did not change because a sales myth was promoted. Your Panamax does not have the necessary earthing. Somehow, it will magically stop what three miles of sky could not? Another damning question you forgot to ask. How does that magic box make energy disappear?

Where are your relevant numbers - as requested? You did not know which number to post? That number does not exist? Forget what was taught even in junior high science - what is necessary to have a fact? Instead, you believed what the sales propaganda told you to believe AND never demanded numbers. Explains why you insult me rather than answer this question, "Where are those spec numbers?"

"The best surge protection in the world can be useless if grounding is not done properly." How much simpler must the NIST be? Anything that Panamax would do is already inside electronics. What do you ignore? A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. But then you also *know* low voltage is destructive because you were told what to believe.

Meanwhile, effective surge protection with that always required short connection to earth comes from responsible companies. Use techniques that have been well proven for over 100 years and that are routine in any location that cannot suffer electronics failures. Clearly, that is not from Panamax.
 
Good grief, westom. I am not sure I've seen someone get so worked up about something so trivial.

Look, you recommended a whole home protector, which is a valid suggestion, but installation is relatively complex and many would need to hire an electrician to help install it.

Even if you had a whole-home protector, however, you still have to answer the question of how you'll plug several devices into a power outlet that typically only has two plugs.

The majority of consumers seek power strips instead of whole home protectors not because they've fallen prey to some elaborate industry conspiracy, but because the solution is simple to install, supports their multiple devices' needs and because it works, at least for whatever you have plugged into it.

Yes, it's not comprehensive for every appliance and device in the house and your suggestion is one of several options for addressing that problem. Personally, I am not worried about most of the electronics that aren't attached to some power strip or another in my home.
 
Man you seriously got issues and the inability to comprehend. All I did was provide a recommendation, a video showing the technology, and you continue on your diatribe. I never said I was concerned about low voltage, all I did was provide the information of what the equipment does if you actually take the time to read and comprehend my post.

I don't need numbers, I know what I saw and that's all I need. You continue your worked up diatribe, but it is apparent to me you don't have a full understanding of their technology since you continue with the same rant and defensive responses. Sounds like and it looks like to me the guys in the lab at Furman/Panamax might be smarter then you, and at this point this doesn't shock me one bit.

Since you're so worked up about numbers, I'm sure you're the same customer that would tell me that an A/V Receive with .008% THD sounds better than an McIntosh Amp at 1% THD, because that's what the numbers tell you. Sadly any manufacture of A/V equipment can produce "great" THD numbers for specs by doing repeated loopbacks. The real number is TID. If you want to talk about the guts of the equipment, don't even tell me a MOSFET chip provides great sound and power. A circuit is not designed to provide power. You need either solid state or the nice warm sound of a tube amp.

I guess since you understand electricity better than all of us in this thread due to "reality", I guess you'll tell us that the safest place to be in an electrical storm is a car due to the rubber of the tires. That too is a myth, it's not the tires that protect you.

To the op, go his route, go power strip, or go with my recommendation. Either way it has no impact on my life, just hope whatever you get works for you.
 
IOW that surge was so small as to not harm the TV, but vaporized the protector? Or the protector earthed that surge destructively through appliances on the other side of the room or house. Or other appliances earthed enough surge that the TV's internal protection was sufficient. But the surge was still large enough to destroy the scam protector.

What have you done? Recommend a protector that did nothing useful. Assumed by not learning the science and by using only observation. Observation not tempered by fundamental knowledge is classic junk science reasoning.

You don't know anything without tracing the surge's path. My posts come from decades of doing just that.

Observation without specific technical details and no numbers is classic junk science. First paragraph includes possibilities that were ignored. TV not damaged means the protector did something? So why was the dishwasher, bathroom GFCI, clock radio, doorbell, etc no damaged? Why did you analysis ignore other facts? What protected them? Invisible surge protectors?

Your reasoning must also say why other appliances also were not damage. Otherwise, the conclusion is junk science - the same logic that also proved childhood leukemia was created by electric wires. Ignoring other data (ie other undamaged appliances without protectors) to make a conclusion is junk science.

My surge protector sacrificed itself to save my TV. Reality. If the protector fried, then TV's internal protection saved that TV. How many other appliances performed as earthed protectors for that TV?

Finally - protection is always about where energy dissipates. Energy was permitted inside the building. Therefore no effective protection existed. It is that simple - even proven 100 years ago. Either a surge current is dissipated harmlessly in earth. Or interior damage is directly traceable to human failure.

Effective protector costs about $1 per protected appliance. How much was the 'so called' cheap protector? $20? Then it was twenty times more expensive - and you still had appliance damage. Either energy is dissipated harmlessly in earth - or effective protection does not exist. That cheap power strip had no earth ground. Did exactly what its manufacturer claimed - ineffective protection.

No way around this fundamental principle: A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Why do I post reality - and then another post promotes the same scam? Effective protection (that costs so much less money) means no surge energy inside the building. Based upon so many posts in this thread, one can conclude they were smarter 100 years ago.

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. How many more scam protectors without earthing will be promoted only on hearsay or observation?

So, if a device successfully detects a surge and then trips a circuit to cut off that flow to an appliance, that doesn't work? Isn't that like no wire? Like, if there is no wire, is there a surge? Unplugging an appliance in a lightening storm doesn't work?

The surge is, I presume, going into the entrance box, through the circuit breakers, down each circuit and into whatever plugged-in appliances. If one of these appliances is protected by a surge protector, and it shuts off, the surge then bounces back down the wire and then comes back up again on the other circuits bigger and badder than before?

When the protector was hit and fried it would no longer pass power, making me think that it tripped and did its job. Maybe the TVs protection worked on that initial millisecond of power before the tripping action was complete.

The protector in question was a generic unit of some sort, not a Monster. I wasn't promoting, but I will if someone will only pay me.

Obviously, a whole-house unit with the proper grounds and all is better, but renters should probably protect the things they care about the best way available to them and that is with individual surge protectors. What other choice to you have?

BTW, some utilities install surge protectors free, to protect them from lawsuits. Others, like mine, would rather hire lawyers. Check your situation, they might even do apartments.

You are getting far too excited. I was in a restaurant and a lady was giving the Swedish waitress a hard time about everything. She came to my table and said "You know, zat voman, she needs a gud fokking". You know what I am saying....?
 
Man you seriously got issues and the inability to comprehend. All I did was provide a recommendation, a video showing the technology, and you continue on your diatribe. ...
I don't need numbers, I know what I saw and that's all I need.
Exactly. You have no idea what you saw, first, because you did not even learn what a protector does, ignored all numbers, and do not know how electricity works. Sales promoters at Panamax/Furman posted half truths, subjective claims, and outright likes. And no spec numbers. Their target market is those most easily deceived.

You assumed what you saw, then posted wild speculation. When challenged to prove a junk science conclusion with numbers, instead, you posted insults ... and no spec numbers.

A responsible poster has tech numbers - or does not make a recommendation. But again the point in every post. Plug-in protectors - products with names such as Panamax and Monster Cable - are recommended by those who have not a Clue. Do not know what that product does. Attribute protection inside every appliance, instead, to a scam protector - because that is the first thing you were told to believe.

So that protection inside all household appliances is not overwhelmed, a responsible homeowner spends tens or one hundred times less money on one properly earthed 'whole house' protector. Responsible companies provide the 'whole house' protector. A Cutler-Hammer solution sells in Lowes for less than $50. An informed consumer wastes no money on products recommended by the technically naive. Installs one properly earthed protector so that even direct lightning strikes cause no damage.

What the informed homeowner understands: a protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

So, if a device successfully detects a surge and then trips a circuit to cut off that flow to an appliance, that doesn't work? Isn't that like no wire? Like, if there is no wire, is there a surge? Unplugging an appliance in a lightening storm doesn't work?
The surge is, I presume, going into the entrance box, through the circuit breakers, down each circuit and into whatever plugged-in appliances. If one of these appliances is protected by a surge protector, and it shuts off, …
How many times do you ignore what was quoted. How many times did I quote the NIST – and you still post as if you ignored it. Nothing blocks, arrests, absorbs, stops a surge. The electrical concept. A constant current source means voltage increases as necessary to maintain that current flow. Any device that attempts to block (cut off) current means voltage on that device increases destructively. The math: constant current times an increasing voltage means increasing energy that dissipated destructively. Anything that blocks a surge means surge damage exists.

Why did lightning strike wooden church steeples? Because even wood becomes an electrical conductor. Voltage increases as necessary to flow through wood. How does your open switch or a 2 cm part inside a protector stop what even a wooden church steeple must conduct? How many times was this concept posted and reposted – and you still don’t get it?

If something inside a protector stops the surge, they circuit breakers inside the AC electric box do that. Why waste money on a protector when existing circuit breakers already provide that protection. And are rated to interrupt even higher voltages? If protectors work as you have posted, than circuit breakers inside every home make that protector useless.

Why is a church steeple damaged? That constant current times a higher voltage (because wood is not fully conductive) means high (destructive) energy. It is all about where energy dissipates. Anything inside that tries to stop a surge means massive energy is dissipated destructively. Protection is always about energy outside of the building. Again, because you don't seem to get it. Protection is about diverting energy so that it does not enter the building. How many times must I repost that NIST quote? Once inside the building, energy hunts for earth ground destructively via appliances. Yes - energy. Protection is always about where energy dissipates. Either harmlessly in earth. Or destructively inside the building - regardless of human intervention.

Anything that violates these principles is the classic urban myth – the lie that promotes ineffective and obscenely profitable protectors. Bottom line: the NIST says what every protector must do and what your latest post again ignores. The best surge protector in the world is useless if that earth ground is not properly installed. Why do you assume a protector will stop what the best insulator - 3 miles of sky - could not stop? How many times do you ignore the NIST, Sun Microsystems, IEEE, ARRL, or even that sentence? How does it cut off what even 3 miles of sky could not stop? Even wooden church steeples are electrical conductors. How is that 2 cm part inside a protector going to do what you have only assumed - or were told by retail myth promoters?

It is electricity. That means the same current is flowing in everything in a path from incoming wires to earth ground. That means current is flowing through anything that would stop a surge. After current is flowing simultaneously, only then is something in that path damaged. Just another reason why nothing stops or blocks a surge.

You used a number - milliseconds. Learn what a surge is. Microseconds. 300 consecutive surges could pass through any 'blocking' device before that device even starts to open. Please throw away everything taught by scam artists and retail store salesmen. If it violated what the NIST says, then you know your informant was wrong. If it claims to stop, absorb, or block surges, then you know it is a scam. If it will somehow stop what three miles of sky could not, then you know it is a scam. That defines must every plug-in solution.

Again - how to identify an ineffective protector. 1) No dedicated wire for that short connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer avoids all discussion about earthing. If the protector violates either, then the protector is wasted money.

Need I get on my knees to get you to read before posting? This sentence (reposted how many times) says why your assumptions are so wrong: a protector - any protector - is only as effective as its earth ground.
 
I've read through this and other discussions concerning surge protection. I get the MOVs and grounding, as well as cost and short cuts in producing some units. As such, I have been searching for alternatives to the surge protection on the shelves of my local electronic store.

Do I have to start looking at higher price ranges to find a quality product?

Or I did stumble upon the Opti-UPS 2100 Does anyone have an opinion on how well this product would do?

TIA!
 
Did anyone else notice that westom joined specifically to comment on this thread, and has posted nowhere else but this thread? Methinks something is fishy.

To address a couple of the claims:

1. A whole home protector really wouldn't save money. It may take an electrician to install which adds cost (it's not as simple as just plugging in and unless you're comfortable splicing wires, you'll hire help), plus most people need power strips anyway in order to have more plugs than the two on a standard outlet.

2. Surge protectors DO protect equipment, as noted in personal anecdotes even on this thread and industry recommendations from tech:
http://www.intel.com/learn/practical-advice/security/Use-A-Surge-Protector-To-Keep-Your-Files-Safe
to electric utilities:
http://www.kcpl.com/residential/surgefaqs.html#internal
to construction:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=BuyGuide/SurgeProtectorGuide.html

Buying a whole-house surge protector is a worthy suggestion, but it is not the only solution, it is not necessarily a complete solution, and power strips are still worthwhile investments.

Show of hands, who here has actually had a piece of electronics equipment attached to any sort of power strip be destroyed from an electrical surge?

typhoon7, my opinion is not to go overboard.

Most power strip manufacturers warranty the equipment connected to them, just make sure you have every wire (electrical, coax, ethernet/phone) running through the surge protector.

That said, check out the Lowe's buying guide above or this one to learn about joule ratings, clamping voltage, response times, line conditioning, etc
http://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/article/173224/surge_protectors
 
I dislike Monster on general principles. They're the same as the guys that sell wooden stereo knobs that enhance your sound for $150. Real high-end electrical products have proper engineering information and specs on them available. Monster don't..

Bill gates became a billionaire by making one simple observation: There are more people who know nothing about computers then people who are experts. Why not sell to the larger group? He was really the first to try that.

The folks at Monster seem to be copying Mr. Gates and doing well at it.

The plan works well because the target market can't tell crap from the good stuff so they use other non-technical criteria to choose a brand, like package labeling and price.

In anwer to how to install a whole hose system: Call an electrician. If you have to ask you should not be working inside a service entrance box.
 
1. A whole home protector really wouldn't save money. It may take an electrician to install which adds cost (it's not as simple as just plugging in and unless you're comfortable splicing wires, you'll hire help), plus most people need power strips anyway in order to have more plugs than the two on a standard outlet.
Lowes sells the 'whole house protector for less than $50 because you must call an electrician anyway? More nonsense. The 'whole house' protector is sold in Lowes because even homeowners (who can do electrical work) can install one.

If an electrician is hired the homeowner still saves money. To try to do the equivalent with plug-in protectors means maybe $2000 or $5000. And it still does not protect from the typically destructive surge.

Earthing a 'whole house' protector is the only solution in facilities damage cannot happen. Where the purchasing agent is not enthralled by a mythical warranty. Why does your telco not waste money on a plug-in protector? Because it is so grossly overpriced, often so undersized as to create scary pictures (think house fire), and does not even claim to provide essential protection.

What protects your furnace, dishwasher, bathroom GFCI, and dimmer switches? All require protection from a typically destructive surge that may occur once every seven years. Each protected by the one 'whole house' protector. What is the most critical appliance during a surge? Smoke detector. What protects it? Only the 'whole house' protector.

See the scary pictures listed previously. Think house fire and plug-in protectors. Just another problem with protectors that are designed for maximum profits, do not have that always required connection to earth, and do not claim protection in its numeric specs.

BoulderBum has just claimed a protector will magically make surge energy disappear. He does not even try to say what his recommended protector does – that does not even claim protection. Instead he is back promoting sales gimmicks (lies) such as a big buck warranty (chock full of exemptions as to not be honored and an indicator of the most inferior product).

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Do I have to start looking at higher price ranges to find a quality product?
Or I did stumble upon the Opti-UPS 2100 Does anyone have an opinion on how well this product would do?
Read its spec numbers. Opti-UPS SS1200 only claims to do what is already inside every electronic appliance. What does it accomplish? Well, it regulates voltage. What must all electronics power supplies do? Regulate voltage. Provide perfectly ideal power to electronics even when AC mains vary 20%. What does the Opti-UPS 1200 claim to do? Only regulates to 15%. Your computer is required to do better than the Opti-UPS 1200.

Sales propaganda says it offers "one of the highest Energy Surge Rating around". They can say anything in subjective sales paragraphs. View the numbers. It is only 525 joules. That means it will use only 175 joules and never more than 350 joules. How does 300 joules absorb a surge that is hundreds of thousands of joules? The numbers are glaring in your face. It has near zero surge protection. Subjective sales claims call that "ideal protection". Ideal near-zero protection would be more accurate. View the numbers. Do you want surge protection or a scam?

How to identify an ineffective protector. 1) No dedicated wire for that less than 10 foot connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer does not discuss earthing. And in this example, 3) specs do not list any protection from the typically destructive surge. How will that magic box stop a surge that can easily exceed 6000 volts if something tries to stop it? It will not and does not claim to.

Your computer will have protection good to maybe 1000 or 2000 volts. So that protection is not overwhelmed, install one 'whole house' protector. What would the Opti-UPS do? Provide a surge with more destructive paths through your computer. One path might bypass protection already inside the Mac. Anything in that Opti-UPS is already solved inside your computer.
 
I installed my Monster behind the plasma, adjacent the wall. Is my TV going to be featured in those pictures soon?
 
Lowes sells the 'whole house protector for less than $50 because you must call an electrician anyway? More nonsense. The 'whole house' protector is sold in Lowes because even homeowners (who can do electrical work) can install one.

Lowe's sells to electricians, builders, plumbers and all sorts of tradesmen in addition to the DIY crowd. I'd wager the vast majority of people who would buy the protector you mentioned would hire a contractor to do the work, while no one would even think of hiring someone to be able to plug in a surge protector they can also buy from Lowe's for $20.

Again, your arguments that a whole home protector is the silver bullet solution, your arguments that it will in any way save money, and your insistence that plug-in surge protectors have no value are total fiction. As noted, the consensus across electronics industries, electric utilities and Lowe's (who you keep referring to) is to urge consumers to use plug-in surge protectors to guard their equipment (even if they're protected further up the line).

I noticed you conveniently glossed over what I said about most people having to buy surge protectors to provide more outlets even if they have a whole home protector, but let's face it: you're not interested in realism here. Rather, you're interested in pimping a product most people don't need/want using nonsensical, arrogant half-truths in the hopes that someone will be ignorant enough to buy your bogus claims or end up succumbing to pressure and giving in to your bullying out of exhaustion, despite their intuition and better judgement.

If an electrician is hired the homeowner still saves money. To try to do the equivalent with plug-in protectors means maybe $2000 or $5000. And it still does not protect from the typically destructive surge.

Completely ridiculous on multiple points. I defy you to find someone who would have spent even $2000 if they didn't buy the solution you mention. I myself have about $60 invested in surge protectors, all in places where I'd need them anyway, because the two wall outlets I have in the area aren't enough to support everything I connected.

BoulderBum has just claimed a protector will magically make surge energy disappear.

Huh? No I didn't. I did say that some surge protectors have line conditioners which is true, and that surge protectors are absolutely effective at protecting your equipment the majority of the time, as demonstrated even by personal experience in this forum.

He does not even try to say what his recommended protector does – that does not even claim protection.

The surge protector I recommended, the (UL listed) Belkin Conserve (which has the feature of shutting itself off via remote switch), has three big words on the front: Click, Save and Protect. I don't know where you're pulling the "it does not even claim protection" idea from. Actually, I know where you're pulling it from, it just can't be mentioned in polite company.

For the clamping voltage, response time, maximum joules and other stats see the "Specs" tab here (and go to the previously linked-to Lowe's buying guide to see what the stats mean):
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=459516

Instead he is back promoting sales gimmicks (lies) such as a big buck warranty (chock full of exemptions as to not be honored and an indicator of the most inferior product).

The only instance you mentioned of the warranty not being honored was one where a piece of equipment didn't have the coax line going through a surge protector. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure the warranty replacement system gets abused by surge protector manufacturers, but in your example the adjustor was right to deny the claim.

If anyone wants to get real, objective information on how surge protectors work and what you should look for, I recommend ignoring this bozo's slant and go here:
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/surge-protector6.htm

Here's the thing, westom. I called you out before on how your user account didn't exist before this thread existed and noted how you've only posted to this thread. It's clear to me that your interest here isn't talking about Apple products or offering helpful advise. I suspect you simply scour the internet looking for similar discussions to spread good lies about the products you're pumping while spreading bad lies about competing approaches.

You're a spammer. Plain and simple. I'd like you to clarify your background and disclose your employer if you will (not that I'd believe you anyway), but as it stands I trust your advise about as much as the emails and bots that promote hot stock tips as part of a pump-and-dump scam.

I'm reporting you to the moderators.
 
Huh? No I didn't. I did say that some surge protectors have line conditioners which is true, and that surge protectors are absolutely effective at protecting your equipment the majority of the time, as demonstrated even by personal experience in this forum. ...
For the clamping voltage, response time, maximum joules and other stats see the "Specs" tab here (and go to the previously linked-to Lowe's buying guide to see what the stats mean):
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=459516

All those personal experiences are observations based in speculation. Not tempered by basic knowledge. Explained once underlying technical realities were added - such as protection already inside all appliances. And how protectors can earth that surge through any nearby appliance that makes the earthing connection. Even another appliance damaged because it was acting as the surge protection - because a human failure let surge energy inside the building.

Undersizing a protector gets a protector to fail during a surge too small to harm the adjacent appliance. Then the naive will assume, "My protector sacrificed itself to save my computer." Those are your citations: assumptions based in hearsay, observation not tempered by knowledge, and speculation. You could not even cite a Belkin spec number that claims protection. You did not know which number was significant. So you just cited a URL hoping the number might be in there.

Little hint. None of the numbers you cited claim protection. That 1000 joule protector (which means 330 joules and never more than 660 joules) will magically absorb a surge of hundred of thousands of joules? That is your citation? No wonder you never post numbers.

Your spec does not even claim a voltage. So an engineer will take numbers from the component datasheet. A 6,000 volt surge approaches the electronics on one wire. The other wire get a voltage lowered by maybe 500 volts. So the other wire sees 5,500 volts. That is your surge protection? No wonder you will not post the actual numbers. No wonder your Belkin spec will not even provide a voltage. You have no idea what those numbers say. So now you attack me? Routine when one makes claims he cannot back up with facts and citations.

Citing the UL1449 listing also demonstrates no technical knowledge. UL is about human safety. Protectors are tested for sparks and flames. A protector can even fail during that test and still obtain a UL listing. UL is not about transistor safety. UL is about human safety. As long as the grossly undersized protector does not spit sparks and flame as it fails, then the protector gets a UL listing.

Unfortunately, many plug-in protector even with UL listing have created those scary pictures - a fire threat. The reason for that fire hazard was even described by a NC Fire Marshal - or did you also ignore that professional citation. A problem when the protector is designed to maximize profits; not protection.

With basic electrical knowledge, then "HowStuffWorks" would not be cited. That citation is so chock full of classic urban myths as to be removed as a source in Wikipedia. First pages of deception and outright lies are discussed on 17 Nov 2003 entitled "Inside a surge protector" in rec.radio.shortwave at:
http://tinyurl.com/2fy7u
Multiple posters also confront "HowStuffWorks" myths in "Is my surge protector good?" in alt.comp.hardware starting 8 Oct 2002 at:
http://tinyurl.com/3bn64

But again, you have cited subjectively what you do not even understand. You could not even say which number proves your point. "HowStuffWorks" is a benchmark to identify those who can be told how to think - who do not see the obvious technical fallacies. Who cannot see through urban myths by simply asking why.

I post only about things I do know - significantly. We know you do not have basic electrical knowledge. You even cited "HowStuffWorks" and did not understand what a UL listing means. Where is that Belkin manufacturer spec number that claims protection from each type of surge. 6000 volts on one wire and 5,500 volts on the other - that is your protection? A fundamental difference: I even designed these things decades ago. My designs suffered direct lightning strikes - sometimes with very educational effects. How many of your designs were tested? None. Obviously none.

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. But again, the NIST says why your Belkin does not provide and does not claim to provide surge protection:
> A very important point to keep in mind is that your surge protector will work
> by diverting the surges to ground. The best surge protection in the world can be
> useless if grounding is not done properly.

That Belkin has no earthing connection. Is a perfect example of a 600 joule protector that will make hundreds of thousands of joules just magically disappear - because you said so. Protection has always been about earthing surge energy outside a building. For over 100 years (and from one who actually designed these things), a protector is only as effective as its earth ground. That technical reality does not change because your Belkin has no earthing.

Your Belkin citation makes no surge protection claims - in numbers. Did you read a section entitled "Specs" before posting? Apparently not.
 
Hello?

I live in a flat. I can't install a 'whole house protector' even if I wanted to. So thanks for totally ignoring these of us who don't live in self-owned homes.

Further more, I work in IT, and every company I've worked for rents offices - sometimes freestanding, sometimes inside a larger office block. So 'whole house protectors' are clearly not possible for my workplace.

That's what people here are discussing - what to use if you or your company doesn't own the building you live or work in. Which is the situation for most of us.

Furthermore again, I believe you have a financial interest in this product you are pushing.

See http://www.electronicspoint.com/re-whole-house-surge-suppressor-and-lighting-strikes-t187462.html

westom has a vested (financial) interest in whole-house surge
suppressers and nothing he says should be taken at face value. He
frequently posts totally incorrect information (for example, he is
unable to differentiate between a direct lightning strike, which almost
no-one can realistically protect against, and a surge caused by a nearby
lightning strike, which has straightforward, effective and well-proven
counter-measures).

westom (who has also posted as westom1, w_tom and w_tom1, he morphs his
posting ID to evade killfiles) has been abusing Usenet for many years
and a common practice of his is lying and twisting what others say to
suit his own agenda.

Googling on common phrases you use reveal that you've spammed dozens of sites over the internet with your cut-and-paste diatribes, all saying the same thing over and over again.
 
Hello?

I live in a flat. I can't install a 'whole house protector' even if I wanted to. So thanks for totally ignoring these of us who don't live in self-owned homes.

Further more, I work in IT, and every company I've worked for rents offices - sometimes freestanding, sometimes inside a larger office block. So 'whole house protectors' are clearly not possible for my workplace.

That's what people here are discussing - what to use if you or your company doesn't own the building you live or work in. Which is the situation for most of us.

Furthermore again, I believe you have a financial interest in this product you are pushing.

See http://www.electronicspoint.com/re-whole-house-surge-suppressor-and-lighting-strikes-t187462.html



Googling on common phrases you use reveal that you've spammed dozens of sites over the internet with your cut-and-paste diatribes, all saying the same thing over and over again.


Good Find!

Im sure he will come back and say the "how can your plug in device stop what 3 miles of sky could not?" again.. lol

Last time I checked.. 3 miles of sky doesnt stop much of anything.
 
I live in a flat. I can't install a 'whole house protector' even if I wanted to. So thanks for totally ignoring these of us who don't live in self-owned homes.
Please learn from previous posts. Why are you posting without first reading? Solutions even for renters were posted long ago.

Why quote Mike Tomlinson who was caught even years ago by many (including me) posting technical lies. He is a repairman with a large ego. Uses profanity for technical proof. He never even learned a first year electrical concept called impedance. Then when forced to read, he confused wire impedance with characteristic impedance. That is your expert citation? Then I recommend you spend $1000's on plug-in protectors. You need them to sooth your anger.

If posting something useful, quoted are manufacturer spec numbers that claim protection. Why no numbers? Because those numbers do not exist, you attack the messenger? A 'Rush Limbaugh' technique that also proved Saddam had WMDs. You would use Rush reasoning? Why not also post profanity and insults?

Does not matter who quoted the professionals. Facts and numbers come from a long list of reputable source. Cited here, if I remember, were NIST, ARRL, US Air Force, Sun Microsystems, Polyphaser, numerous Ham radio operators, commercial broadcasting engineers who eliminate surge damage even in central Florida, solutions for a radio station after damage kept happening, solution, fixing a nuclear hardened facility from repeat lightning damage, IEEE, and numerous IEEE research papers - to name but a few.

No plug-in protector claims protection. Protectors equivalent to those promoted by BoulderBum even have a history of creating scary pictures - a problem that most every fire department has seen.

Others who ignored personal accusations instead learn form numerous professionals cited previously. Did not let their eyes glaze over when a kludge solution for renters was posted.

If a facility does not need earthing and a 'whole house' protector, then the facility needs no protectors. Protection inside appliances is more than sufficient. Then the facility also need not worry about fire - ie those scary pictures.

The informed learned from numbers, professional citations, and well proven history that every protector is only as effective as its earth ground.
 
I know this isn't to the original discussion but I looked at the first page and then decided to post. The HDMI cables at Monoprice, they don't say if they are THX certified so I was hoping that you can tell me what they mean by CL2 certified?

That and I just use a cheap Rocketfish surge protector from Best Buy.
 
I know this isn't to the original discussion but I looked at the first page and then decided to post. The HDMI cables at Monoprice, they don't say if they are THX certified so I was hoping that you can tell me what they mean by CL2 certified?

That and I just use a cheap Rocketfish surge protector from Best Buy.

CL2 means its rated for in wall use.
 
Westom, if you were god, how big should the sky be to stop a surge? Seems like this is a fatal flaw in engineering.

I'm come now for the diatribe, but I stay for the laughs.
 
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