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Others love to do long exposures (another aspect I also enjoy). So, I would add a good tripod to this list. I don't need my 54 point Servo AI AF system for those long exposure outings, but I sure do like having a sturdy tripod with a good ball head and QR L-plate.

Indeed. Also, a good tripod is a shape-shifting beast. It could be the sturdy but heavy monster that you are not afraid to take into a stormy battle with the elements, or it could be a tiny but oh so useful gorillapod that will make sure everyone gets to be in the photo when you're out and about with friends. ;)
 
Interesting recommendation... aren't you buying into a very limited eco-system with this? The lens choices are limited and generally slow. Their two primes are 50mm and 135mm which require a lot of working distance on an APS-C sensor.

In my case, buying a 35mm wide aperture prime (for my APS-C camera) fundamentally changed me and kept me interested in photography long after I would have got bored shooting with slow zooms.

You are very misinformed, this is one of those myths about Pentax having a lens offering that is too small for the average buyer. In fact they have a lot more than 2 primes, there are at least 18 primes currently manufactured by Pentax covering from 14mm to 300mm (not even including third parties) and these are: 14/2.8, 15/4, 21/3.2, 31/1.8, 35/2, 35/2.4, 35/2.8 macro, 40/2.8, 43/1.9, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 50/2.8 macro, 55/1.4, 70/2.4, 77/1.8, 100/2.8 macro, 200/2.8, 300/4.

If anything I think Pentax have too many primes and should rationalize their offering.
 
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is nikons light beam v.s canons pre flash to focus in low light better then the other?

The focus-assist beam helps the camera focus in the dark (almost in the dark). Nikon includes this beam in its cameras, while Canon does not. Canon flashes include a focus-assist beam. However, there are times when focus-assist beams and flashes are not allowed; in such cases you have to turn the focus-assist beam of the Nikon camera.
 
You are very misinformed, this is one of those myths about Pentax having a lens offering that is too small for the average buyer. In fact they have a lot more than 2 primes, there are at least 18 primes currently manufactured by Pentax covering from 14mm to 300mm (not even including third parties) and these are: 14/2.8, 15/4, 21/3.2, 31/1.8, 35/2, 35/2.4, 35/2.8 macro, 40/2.8, 43/1.9, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 50/2.8 macro, 55/1.4, 70/2.4, 77/1.8, 100/2.8 macro, 200/2.8, 300/4.

If anything I think Pentax have too many primes and should rationalize their offering.

I see... I guess you could say I'm mis-informed... I certainly wasn't aware Pentax had a full modern line up of fast glass. However, I'm not sure if that's my fault or theirs for their lack of effective marketing. I drew my earlier conclusion by simply clicking on the "accessories" for that camera link you provided and that's what came up on the B&H site. Do they offer full-frame setups or just APS-C?
 
Unless you are going to buy L lenses (not all of which are weather sealed, btw) don't bother getting the 60D just because it is weather sealed.

As for nikon vs canon, it's totally subjective because both are pretty much the same and just offer slight differences over each other, and it's your choice as to what differences you want.

Not all L lenses are weather sealed, and the same for other lens brands. But that would not stop me from buying non-wether sealed L lenses. All depends on my budget and the type of photography I get involved with.

For example, I have two Tokina lenses that aren't weather-sealed, one I use on a Canon 7D, and the other on a 5DII. Then I have several L lenses that aren't weather-sealed. What I do is to make sure that I don't get the lenses drenched by rain when shooting outdoors. Other than that, landscapes, night photography of the sky (Auroras and such), and wildlife are my primary subjects. I often take photos in the middle of the winter of dog-sled races around -30 degrees F.

Other than that, I do agree with others in that Nikon and Canon offer cameras with similar features. The lenses is where most of the money will go into :)
 
The focus-assist beam helps the camera focus in the dark (almost in the dark). Nikon includes this beam in its cameras, while Canon does not. Canon flashes include a focus-assist beam. However, there are times when focus-assist beams and flashes are not allowed; in such cases you have to turn the focus-assist beam of the Nikon camera.

is a canon pre flash vs. nikons light beam, one better then the other?
 
So, I would add a good tripod to this list. I don't need my 54 point Servo AI AF system for those long exposure outings, but I sure do like having a sturdy tripod with a good ball head and QR L-plate.

Indeed. Also, a good tripod is a shape-shifting beast. It could be the sturdy but heavy monster that you are not afraid to take into a stormy battle with the elements, or it could be a tiny but oh so useful gorillapod that will make sure everyone gets to be in the photo when you're out and about with friends. ;)

Any recommendations on a good tripod--possibly two: one light and portable and another robust? What should I look for in terms of build? brand? typical cost?
 
Manfrotto is fine. I have one, but I also have a carbon-fiber Gitzo that I like more. OP, you're going to run into cost issues with tripods -- you can easily spend $1000 on a tripod.

Consider getting a ball head, or putting it another way, if you're going to get a tripod you might as well get a proper ball head to go with it. Fortunately, there are some good heads out there for not a lot of money (and some for a lot of money).

You talked about FF. One problem with FF is that the lenses tend to be more expensive than APS-C sensor lenses. In Nikon terms, FX lenses are usually more expensive than DX lenses. You can mount a DX lens on a full-frame Nikon, but you won't get FF coverage. At least with Nikon you can mount any lens on any body, and it will work properly.

I think this isn't true of the Canon line -- I'd be happy to be corrected if I'm wrong. I think the lenses meant for the APS-C cameras cannot be mounted on the FF bodies.

Try to handle the different bodies. Other posters have said this, and I agree. It's really important. Almost certainly, one body is going to feel just right in your hands, and another won't.
 
Need Your Experience with Canon and Nikon DSLRs

Check out,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattijn/

He uses a £150.00 point and shoot (and photoshop)...most dslr's will be a step up from this!

It might be worth considering buying a cheap canon 500/550d or what ever the nikon equivalent is of eBay and just start shooting and learning.

Plenty of people seems to be selling them with 2 or 3 lenses to get you going. Once you have got a bit more experience you will start to figure out which areas you want to focus on, and which bodies/lenses/strobes/tripods etc etc etc will be most useful...

.....heck you may fall in love with film and decide to explore that you just don't know yet..

..don't worry photography will give you every chance to spend your money so there is no need to rush :)

Oh also get a copy of brian pattersons understanding exposure, that's probably one of the best beginners investment there is!
 
is a canon pre flash vs. nikons light beam, one better then the other?

I watched a video on "youtube.com" relating to both the Canon 6D and the Nikon D600, and the Nikon was superior focusing in the dark as long as the focus-assist beam was on. But when the beam was turned off, the Canon did about the same or better than the Nikon. Then with the Assist beam on the Nikon turned on, and a flash mounted on the Canon, both were about equal.

Canon flashes can be programmed so that the beam fires without firing the flash, but some people save some cash by buying some flash triggers such as the Yongnuo YN560 and others that have focus-assist beams. But the Wansen RF-602 is said to be a lot cheaper.

It is a matter of preference. For example point-and-shoot cameras have a focus-assist beam you can clearly see when someone is taking a photo of you in low light. The same with the Nikon focus-assist beam. But I prefer not to have that light projecting out of the camera unless I want it to.
 
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I would look at the D7000 or D7100... (Disclosure: I shoot with a D7000)

The lower end camera drive me batty with having to make all the adjustments thru menus on the LCD. The mid range camera add a few more buttons to the back and am extra dial on the front and most adjustments can be made with the camera in the shooting position, instead of staring down at it in your lap.

You will also get more of the high-end features (higher ISO, internal AF motors, internal metal frame, sealed frame, etc)

I would purchase frame only (kit lenses are junk) and save the extra to buy high quality glass. That is what will make a huge difference in the quality of your shots.
 
Manfrotto

Agreed. I have the 190 which is a great bit of kit.

----------

Check out,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattijn/


..don't worry photography will give you every chance to spend your money so there is no need to rush :)

Oh also get a copy of brian pattersons understanding exposure, that's probably one of the best beginners investment there is!

So true! Brian's book on composition is also a good read.

----------

I would look at the D7000 or D7100... (Disclosure: I shoot with a D7000)

The lower end camera drive me batty with having to make all the adjustments thru menus on the LCD. The mid range camera add a few more buttons to the back and am extra dial on the front and most adjustments can be made with the camera in the shooting position, instead of staring down at it in your lap.

You will also get more of the high-end features (higher ISO, internal AF motors, internal metal frame, sealed frame, etc)

I would purchase frame only (kit lenses are junk) and save the extra to buy high quality glass. That is what will make a huge difference in the quality of your shots.

I have just bought a D7100 (not been out with it yet) after starting out with a D3200. Looking through all the menus to find a feature is a real pain! I'm looking forward to having everything I need at the touch of a button. That said, I think I would have found all those extra controls overwhelming when I started.
 
Any recommendations on a good tripod--possibly two: one light and portable and another robust? What should I look for in terms of build? brand? typical cost?

Volumes have been written about this subject (and I'm about to add to it) :)

Besides recommendations here, be sure to read up in other gear related forums. POTN is a great resource for Canon shooters (although their accessories forum is valuable to anyone). I assume Nikon fans have a similar forum you can leverage if you go that route.

I initially had two tripods, just like you say... one light for travel, the other one built like a tank for use out of the trunk of my car. If I only knew then what I know now. :eek:

Long story short, I believe you can get a tripod now that will cover both tasks without compromise.

Popular tripods basically come from either Italy or Asia...
- Italian products include Gitzo and Manfrotto. Well known and respected products with Gitzo clearly at the top of the price range. Manfrotto is more of a working professional brand.
- Respected Asian products include Feisol, Surui, Benro, Giottos. Recently these brands seem to have come into favour with enthusiasts for having outstanding specs, build quality, at comparable if not better price points than their Italian counterparts.
- There's also Really Right Stuff in the USA (also premium priced).

I wouldn't say any of these brands is superior to any other. You can find threads of broken tripods for any and all brands.

They can be made of two materials...
- Aluminum is cheaper but slightly heavier
- Carbon Fiber is more expensive but lighter

They come in a variety of sizes... with the key considerations being...
- How compact is it when folded? Will it fit in your suitcase? Your backpack?
- How high is it when extended? - without the center column since you want to avoid that in all but the most extreme situations
- How many leg segments are there (avoid 5 segments) and how thick are the legs (both first segment and last segment) since this can influence stability.

In my case, I wanted something that collapsed under 20" to fit in my suit case, was light, extended to my normal eye height without using the center column, with the biggest diameter legs possible. I ultimately zero'd in on the well reviewed Feisol and the legs that met my requirements were their 3441T. What's best for you will depend on your particular size/weight requirements.

When it comes to ball heads, every tripod manufacturer makes their own heads in a variety of sizes and weight bearing capacities. The general rule of thumb is to multiply the weight of your gear by 3 when evaluating the holding capacity of a ball head. But I would basically ignore the load specs, and focus on the ball diameter. 35-40mm is probably ideal for an average SLR/lens combo. Smaller and you'll likely have droop, larger and you're just packing more weight than you need to. The other key consideration in a ball head is the clamping mechanism. The most popular these days is the Arca-swiss style which has been widely adopted by many vendors so there are a ton of relatively interchangeable plates and clamps to choose from. Markins, Photoclam, and Benro are well respected enthusiast ball heads.

In my case, I went with a Markin's Q3T ball head with Arca-Swiss style Quick Release. It offered great capacity, small size, low weight and is well reviewed. To go along with it, I got an L-plate off ebay that fits my 5D3 perfectly and allows me to quickly switch from landscape to portrait without moving the ball head into an awkward position (often putting the whole camera off balance).

So while I can't recommend something for you without better knowing your requirements, this is what I ended up with that is both super light, compact, easily stowes in my suitcase, and sturdy enough to withstand a tornado :)...
- Feisol CF tripod legs (eg. 3441s or 3441T depending on height)
- Markins Q3T ball head with QR clamp
- Generic chinese L-plate off ebay

If I can offer one piece of advice... it's similar to what I mentioned earlier about camera bodies... if you can afford it, skip the step of buying cheap crap now and just buy a top shelf tripod and ball-head right out of the gate. :eek:

----------

The lower end camera drive me batty with having to make all the adjustments thru menus on the LCD. The mid range camera add a few more buttons to the back and am extra dial on the front and most adjustments can be made with the camera in the shooting position, instead of staring down at it in your lap.

This is absolutely true. In the higher-end cameras, you're getting a lot of added convenience along with the potential for better images.

I would purchase frame only (kit lenses are junk) and save the extra to buy high quality glass. That is what will make a huge difference in the quality of your shots.

Another benefit to going with a higher-end (FF) body is that the kit lens is actually respectable... with Canon you get the 24-105L which is a fantastic lens.
 
A lot of great information posted here Val-kyrie and I won't muddy the water by adding more other than to suggest you check-out Photographylife.

The site and is weighted towards Nikon but I find the reviews, tutorials and opinions to be clear, concise and informative with something everyone - beginners to enthusiasts.

~ Peter
 
Thank you all for your suggestions. I will be frequenting this forum as I begin to explore my new hobby.

I have also enrolled in an online introductory course to digital photography. It should be a good introduction and the price can't be beat--FREE. I found it in another thread in this forum.

Oh also get a copy of brian pattersons understanding exposure, that's probably one of the best beginners investment there is!

Will do.
 
Buying an SLR for a vacation trip when you don't know much about cameras is always a mistake. The other mistake is to look at SLR bodies so early in the selection process. Buy the camera weeks or moths BEFORE the trip and think "Camera System" not "SLR Body"

First think about the system you might want to own in five years. You might have a body likely a couple lenses and maybe a flash. Then down the road you decide to buy another lens. Are you the type of person to buy used gear or do you buy only new gear locally from camera shops?

Canon offers a wider range of quality. Lenses range from cheap to quite good. Nikon offers a more narrow range with bold quality starting a little higher up. At the professional level high end that are both quite good. As a general rule Nikon is a more conservative company and makes changes slowly Canon seems to jump on new technology faster. There are pluses and minuses both ways. The Nikon used market is huge because they did not change the lens mount when they moved to autofocus. So lenses made in the 1960's still work. But you may not care if you are building a new system with all new gear.

In the end it hardly matters. What's more important is that you study images and how to make good ones. And work at it in some systematic way.

Also never buy a new camera for an upcoming trip unless you have 6 to 8 weeks to shoot photos near your home first. Shoot a dozen or so sessions of 30 to 100 frames each near home. process and edit those. Then you'll know if you like the lenses, that bag and how to use all the equipment and which pieces of gear you can leave at home.

You will take the best shots near where you live. You will rarely do your best work while on a vacation. The reason is that you KNOW the area yo live in and you can come back when the lighting and weather is "perfect" and you have time to re-shoot if even better lighting happens. Most vacationers are in rush and never have time to wait for the perfect time to take each shot or to move the tripod over 8 inches to fix a problem in the background. Mostly you can't even cary a tripod with you. So you sand up with a million quick snapshots. Near home you have all the time you need and can even recruit an assistant to hold reflectors and your model can take a few change of cloths.

One fun pre-trip exercise is to pretend you are a tourist visiting your home town. Shoot many travel type shots and then go home, edit them and think of some way to do better then go and shoot more. Do this 8 to 10 times.

Be sure to take small pocket size camera with you even if you do buy an SLR.
 
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I haven't read all the other posts and know you said you wanted a DSLR... I'm a big Nikon fan when it comes to DSLR 's, however I had a Canon S110 point and shoot and it was a great camera. Now they have the Canon S120. You may want to take a look at it.
 
Shot SLRs since '72 with a Rebel as my first DSLR many a year ago. Not the wife and I retired and we have decided to downsize from each of us with 40lb rolling bags with 5D3, 7D, and a collection of glass.

We are going M43 with Olympus EM-1 with 43 and M43 lenses. The cost, size, and weight is around 1/3 to 1/2 depending on item. The EM-1 and Olympus lenses are wether sealed. Wish the kits had have been years ago in Antelope Canyon in a wind storm!

With small and lighter equipment, we can go further, shoot more and regret less. ;)

Scroll down this page and watch the movie of the camera and lens in the sink. Tell me how many would do that to their high end Canon or Nikon DSLRs and high dollar lenses.

http://www.thephoblographer.com/2013/09/30/review-olympus-omd-em1-micro-four-thirds-slightly-nsfw/
 
Any recommendations on a good tripod--possibly two: one light and portable and another robust? What should I look for in terms of build? brand? typical cost?

We use a Manfrotto for the studio and I recently purchased a travel tripod, the Roadtrip model from MeFoto. It's super compact, very light - yet sturdy (can handle my Nikon with 200mm lens,) and easily converts into a mono pod. Bonus. It worked really, really well at Disneyland.

MeFoto - Roadtrip
 
I watched a video on "youtube.com" relating to both the Canon 6D and the Nikon D600, and the Nikon was superior focusing in the dark as long as the focus-assist beam was on. But when the beam was turned off, the Canon did about the same or better than the Nikon. Then with the Assist beam on the Nikon turned on, and a flash mounted on the Canon, both were about equal.

Canon flashes can be programmed so that the beam fires without firing the flash, but some people save some cash by buying some flash triggers such as the Yongnuo YN560 and others that have focus-assist beams. But the Wansen RF-602 is said to be a lot cheaper.

It is a matter of preference. For example point-and-shoot cameras have a focus-assist beam you can clearly see when someone is taking a photo of you in low light. The same with the Nikon focus-assist beam. But I prefer not to have that light projecting out of the camera unless I want it to.

I just upgraded from a Nikon D5200 to a Canon 70D. The one thing i miss from the nikon is the focus light beam. i ahve yet to try canons pre flash auto focus in low light on people yet so im concerned how different it may be :S
 
Lots of great information here OP, as I am sure you have seen. You won't go wrong with either the Nikon or Canon system and with practice (lots of it), you'll begin producing images you like as well.

I'm a Nikon guy myself, but my original decision came down to their strobe/lighting system, ergonomics, backwards compatibility to decades of obscenely great lenses (I'm a glutton for manual focus punishment) and, at the time, their low light capabilities. Any great image you see from either system (or any system) is really down to the photographer's skill in capturing the image and perhaps in any post processing skills. It's not going to be related to brand of camera.

For support, I've got a RRS tvc-33 with BHS-55 ball head as well as a Wimberley head. Expensive, but thankfully not something you go out and buy frequently and the products, I find, are very well made. I also spend a fair amount of time between 300 and 500 mm so for me support was critical.

You'll be happy with either. You'll have fun, too.
 
Lots of great information here OP, as I am sure you have seen. You won't go wrong with either the Nikon or Canon system and with practice (lots of it), you'll begin producing images you like as well.

I'm a Nikon guy myself, but my original decision came down to their strobe/lighting system, ergonomics, backwards compatibility to decades of obscenely great lenses (I'm a glutton for manual focus punishment) and, at the time, their low light capabilities. Any great image you see from either system (or any system) is really down to the photographer's skill in capturing the image and perhaps in any post processing skills. It's not going to be related to brand of camera.

For support, I've got a RRS tvc-33 with BHS-55 ball head as well as a Wimberley head. Expensive, but thankfully not something you go out and buy frequently and the products, I find, are very well made. I also spend a fair amount of time between 300 and 500 mm so for me support was critical.

You'll be happy with either. You'll have fun, too.

I chose canon for one of the reasons that their bodies are made in japan vs. nikons being made in thailand. Ive had many made in japan electronics and they neve rlet me down. for example I have a RCA VCR from 1991, mad ein japan, still works, and a pioneer stereo reciever from 1982, looks new and works like new. japanese quality or atleast reliabiliy seems much better than being made in china, etc
 
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