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Nikon Z50 First Impressions.
- Thread starter OldMacs4Me
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So did the spring changeover of lenses. Managed to get it dust free on the second try. Hopefully good for the summer.
Now if we can just shake the winter blahs I might even find a subject that grabs my attention.
Now if we can just shake the winter blahs I might even find a subject that grabs my attention.
Was out and about yesterday going from A to B, over to C, then back to A. Took along the z50 to shoot something other than copies of negs. These two were not intended to become a panorama. However I missed being able to do a butt tie by just a smidge. Lighting also changed a bit between frames. Any way here is my attempt to put lipstick on a bit of a pig.
Going to add one hopefully final complaint to the list. If the camera has been turned on, but has been idle for more than a few seconds it takes way too long for the EVF to come alive after I put my eye up to it. In fact on a couple of occasions I had to turn the camera off then back before the EVF would wake up.
Going to add one hopefully final complaint to the list. If the camera has been turned on, but has been idle for more than a few seconds it takes way too long for the EVF to come alive after I put my eye up to it. In fact on a couple of occasions I had to turn the camera off then back before the EVF would wake up.
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I do love the camera but there are things I am sure Nikon could and should improve. Most are minor irritants, but nonetheless they do exist. By all means check out the offerings from Canon and Fuji, if they are in your price range. For whatever reason the Canon I looked at just did not feel as comfortable to me, and I can't even say why. Can't recall price on the Canon, but I believe the Fuji would have been somewhat more expensive.
I think APS-c hits a sweet spot when it comes to format size. Lenses are short enough to offer great depth of field even into the normal and mild telephoto range but can still deliver nice bokeh as you get into the true telephoto end of things. Because I bought this mainly to copy 35mm negs and slides, the 50mm Macro is absolutely perfect. Lets me crop in a smidge past filling the frame while still leaving enough headroom for the autofocus to do its thing.
Anyways I hope these ramblings have given you some useful information.
The strap that came with my Z-50 is nothing for Nikon to brag about. I am sure most users will look for & find something more comfortable on the after market. If you decide to use it temporarily or otherwise a few tips.
First: Use it inside out, the topside is more comfortable against the skin than the bottom.
Second: Check the manual to figure out how to make it secure after you adjust it. Otherwise it could just pull out of the plastic stays.
Third: I picked up a couple of small cheap carabiners at the dollar store, makes it easy to remove the strap when I am doing copy work.
Been giving this camera a light workout the past couple of weeks. Some photos taken around Lundbreck Falls here:
forums.macrumors.com
Here's another image that I took there yesterday. Lighting was better which made for wicked contrast. Did a -.667 EBV to be sure I captured the highlights. Then used the Tone Mapping feature in Affinity Photo to recover the shadows. After that pasted the original over top and deleted all but the extreme high lights from that layer. Blended it all together. Finally over to PhotoShop Elements where I used a High Pass filter on a Softlight layer to bring out the lace effect in the water. Needs to be viewed at full resolution.
First: Use it inside out, the topside is more comfortable against the skin than the bottom.
Second: Check the manual to figure out how to make it secure after you adjust it. Otherwise it could just pull out of the plastic stays.
Third: I picked up a couple of small cheap carabiners at the dollar store, makes it easy to remove the strap when I am doing copy work.
Been giving this camera a light workout the past couple of weeks. Some photos taken around Lundbreck Falls here:
The Relaxed Photo Thread
Couple of days ago I was describing taking a few photos at Lundbreck Falls to get used to using the new Z-50. Not the best time of the year and the lighting was nowhere near optimal. The bridge shot took a fair bit of 'tinkering' to show any life whatsoever. For better or worse here they are...
forums.macrumors.com
Here's another image that I took there yesterday. Lighting was better which made for wicked contrast. Did a -.667 EBV to be sure I captured the highlights. Then used the Tone Mapping feature in Affinity Photo to recover the shadows. After that pasted the original over top and deleted all but the extreme high lights from that layer. Blended it all together. Finally over to PhotoShop Elements where I used a High Pass filter on a Softlight layer to bring out the lace effect in the water. Needs to be viewed at full resolution.
Anti shake can cover a lot of territory. In some cases it's little more than the camera grabbing high ISOs to obtain high shutter speeds.
A quick thought on Nikon's VR (Vibration Reduction) built in to most of it's mirrorless lenses. It really works. At the long end of the 18-140, when looking through the viewfinder everything looks rock solid. The minor quivering I would normally expect is completely smoothed out. You know when you squeeze the shutter there won't be any camera motion. I have been leaving this feature on and so far no signs of it having a negative effect on the image, even at absurdly slow shutter speeds.
A quick thought on Nikon's VR (Vibration Reduction) built in to most of it's mirrorless lenses. It really works. At the long end of the 18-140, when looking through the viewfinder everything looks rock solid. The minor quivering I would normally expect is completely smoothed out. You know when you squeeze the shutter there won't be any camera motion. I have been leaving this feature on and so far no signs of it having a negative effect on the image, even at absurdly slow shutter speeds.
VR/IS is only getting better and better. It's really kind of nuts.
Even my first gen 300mm f/2.8VR I'm constantly amazed that I've gotten sharp shots handheld at 1/125 with a 2x TC, and that lens tends to make my hands shake more than even something more moderately sized like a 70-200 2.8 would.
In lens+in body on my X-T5 is unreal, and I don't think it's exactly unique in how well it integrates the two types of stabilization(letting each handle what ti's best at). Using the 16-80mm f/4 lens I bought it kitted with, I have managed 1/2" reasonably sharp across the entire FL range. I don't make a habit of doing that, but it's good to know it's an option.
Of course with anything it's worth testing. Thom Hogan found at least in earlier incarnations of Nikon's VR, it could often hurt sharpness at high shutter speeds. I forget exactly what his range was. In practice, I do often turn it off when my shutter speeds are in the 1/1000 range or faster. I have two lenses with Nikon's first generation VR system-generally identifiable by a brass plate on the lens that IDs what it is, often the letters VR highlighte d in red, and in use they have a comparatively loud "hum"(and also tend to clunk around a lot more than newer lenses). I'm really cautious/selective with whether it's on or off on those lenses. I tend to forget about it on my 24-70 f/2.8E, primarily because I can't hear it(I suspect that newer systems operate at a much higher frequency well outside the range of hearing). I have a few other VR lenses, but those are my most used ones(along with the X-T5+16-80).
Even my first gen 300mm f/2.8VR I'm constantly amazed that I've gotten sharp shots handheld at 1/125 with a 2x TC, and that lens tends to make my hands shake more than even something more moderately sized like a 70-200 2.8 would.
In lens+in body on my X-T5 is unreal, and I don't think it's exactly unique in how well it integrates the two types of stabilization(letting each handle what ti's best at). Using the 16-80mm f/4 lens I bought it kitted with, I have managed 1/2" reasonably sharp across the entire FL range. I don't make a habit of doing that, but it's good to know it's an option.
Of course with anything it's worth testing. Thom Hogan found at least in earlier incarnations of Nikon's VR, it could often hurt sharpness at high shutter speeds. I forget exactly what his range was. In practice, I do often turn it off when my shutter speeds are in the 1/1000 range or faster. I have two lenses with Nikon's first generation VR system-generally identifiable by a brass plate on the lens that IDs what it is, often the letters VR highlighte d in red, and in use they have a comparatively loud "hum"(and also tend to clunk around a lot more than newer lenses). I'm really cautious/selective with whether it's on or off on those lenses. I tend to forget about it on my 24-70 f/2.8E, primarily because I can't hear it(I suspect that newer systems operate at a much higher frequency well outside the range of hearing). I have a few other VR lenses, but those are my most used ones(along with the X-T5+16-80).
After I stopped using auto ISO, my shutter speeds have usually been less than that. I can recall two shots where the SS was 1/3000th. No sharpness issues but both were culled for artistic reasons.
This lens is either noiseless or outside my hearing range. Hopefully that will continue to be so as it ages.
Earlier I complained perhaps a bit bitterly about the 2-step procedure to get in or out of bracketing.
Good news on this. Set it up the way you like in one of the 4 usable modes P, A, S or M. Then save the settings to the U1 or U2 mode. Then return your regular set-up to no auto-bracket and single frame. After that any time you select that U mode you will be set up for auto bracketing.
I ended up doing some extensive menu diving before I conned this one out. Have U1 set up this way and will probably set U2 to my standard copy settings, including auto bracketing.
So one of the three big issues resolved.
EDIT: I was also able to replace the wifi panel in the i-menu with autobracketing, so now I have two fairly quick ways to bracket exposures.
Good news on this. Set it up the way you like in one of the 4 usable modes P, A, S or M. Then save the settings to the U1 or U2 mode. Then return your regular set-up to no auto-bracket and single frame. After that any time you select that U mode you will be set up for auto bracketing.
I ended up doing some extensive menu diving before I conned this one out. Have U1 set up this way and will probably set U2 to my standard copy settings, including auto bracketing.
So one of the three big issues resolved.
EDIT: I was also able to replace the wifi panel in the i-menu with autobracketing, so now I have two fairly quick ways to bracket exposures.
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Got to be honest I never bother with that sort of stuff. I have U1 set up for WB and that's it. Not sure what U2 does 😀
Captured this the other day with the Z50 and the 140mm lens though - very happy
Captured this the other day with the Z50 and the 140mm lens though - very happy
Are you by any chance referring to the Fn1 & Fn2 buttons on the front of the camera?
U1 and U2 are user programmable modes on the same dial where you select P, A, S or M modes.
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Yeah that's the ones. See I have no idea how to use it 🤣
(I mostly shoot in A/M and only S when it's animals and small children)
(I mostly shoot in A/M and only S when it's animals and small children)
Truth is I retired my film cameras in 2007. And for nearly 17 years got by quite nicely with the much despised P&S style cameras. I made the jump into mirrorless well aware that the spending would not be suspended with the original purchase.
First up was a backpack. I will almost certainly be going with one of my smaller cameras when hiking, biking or on the water. However the backpack will be an advantage if I do want to take this camera and don't want it dangling from my neck. Friday the <$50 back pack I ordered from Amazon arrived. Quite the battle getting the dividers properly arranged. Suspect it had something to do with the set being one size fits all, for two sizes of back pack. Probably fits the larger size better. Regardless the shoulder straps are comfortable and everything is secure and well padded. Nice side opening if the camera is the only thing you need to get to. Allowances for a small to medium tripod and water bottle. Big complaint is all the dangling strap ends which I will fix once I am sure everything is adjusted just the way I want it.
Over spent a bit on the neckstrap which should arrive this week. Found it through Etsy and almost backed out when I finally saw the shipping portion of the bill. It will be going back if I am not more than happy with it.
Hopefully the final item is a flash. At over $300 Nikons offerings are a bit over the top for my needs which would be an extremely occasional fill flash. With a guestimated GN≤1 the built in is just not up to that chore! Looking at this one.
Using just 2_AAs I suspect battery life will be very limited, but more than adequate for my needs. Not sure what the GN is with wide angle lenses but it should be up to the task. As near as I can tell the GN-36 is meters at iso-100 and is at telephoto setting. Further info or other suggestions appreciated.
First up was a backpack. I will almost certainly be going with one of my smaller cameras when hiking, biking or on the water. However the backpack will be an advantage if I do want to take this camera and don't want it dangling from my neck. Friday the <$50 back pack I ordered from Amazon arrived. Quite the battle getting the dividers properly arranged. Suspect it had something to do with the set being one size fits all, for two sizes of back pack. Probably fits the larger size better. Regardless the shoulder straps are comfortable and everything is secure and well padded. Nice side opening if the camera is the only thing you need to get to. Allowances for a small to medium tripod and water bottle. Big complaint is all the dangling strap ends which I will fix once I am sure everything is adjusted just the way I want it.
Over spent a bit on the neckstrap which should arrive this week. Found it through Etsy and almost backed out when I finally saw the shipping portion of the bill. It will be going back if I am not more than happy with it.
Hopefully the final item is a flash. At over $300 Nikons offerings are a bit over the top for my needs which would be an extremely occasional fill flash. With a guestimated GN≤1 the built in is just not up to that chore! Looking at this one.
Godox TT350N 2.4G HSS 1/8000s TTL GN36 Wireless Speedlite Flash for Nikon DSLR D810 D800 D750 D700 D610 D7100 D5200 D90 and Mirrorless Digital Camera
Godox TT350N 2.4G HSS 1/8000s TTL GN36 Wireless Speedlite Flash for Nikon DSLR D810 D800 D750 D700 D610 D7100 D5200 D90 and Mirrorless Digital Camera
www.amazon.ca
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Second hand Nikon SB-800 off ebay. Works on the hot shoe and stick it in SU-4 mode and it'll work. Also $40 wireless trigger units can be used if you really want.
As for the neck strap, I don't bother. I have a Garmin GPS strap which gets hung off the right hand side I loop my hand through to stop me dropping it. This is long enough to hook through a bag clip as well so I don't drop it then.
The camera is mostly attached to a Peak Designs capture clip which fits on my bag.
Action shot...
As for the neck strap, I don't bother. I have a Garmin GPS strap which gets hung off the right hand side I loop my hand through to stop me dropping it. This is long enough to hook through a bag clip as well so I don't drop it then.
The camera is mostly attached to a Peak Designs capture clip which fits on my bag.
Action shot...
Wound up with this at <$70US:
Typically I far prefer existing light to flash, but subjects such as this pretty much demand a flash to keep the interior part of the frame from going dark. This one was just camera mounted TTL with wide angle diffuser. Camera set to -2/3rds ebv. Flash set to +1/3rd. On time was very quick as was recycle time, but I only took 3 frames off a fresh charge.
Lens setting was 29mm (43mm equiv) ƒ-11 @1/60th. ISO 400
NEEWER NW645II-N TTL Flash Speedlite GN58
A bit bigger than I would like and I suspect were I using it a lot, it would be a real battery muncher. At the moment I'm working with an older set of Rayovac AA rechargeables. These are nice as they hold their charge over an extended period of time. And time will tell if it's time to replace them.Typically I far prefer existing light to flash, but subjects such as this pretty much demand a flash to keep the interior part of the frame from going dark. This one was just camera mounted TTL with wide angle diffuser. Camera set to -2/3rds ebv. Flash set to +1/3rd. On time was very quick as was recycle time, but I only took 3 frames off a fresh charge.
Lens setting was 29mm (43mm equiv) ƒ-11 @1/60th. ISO 400
Out of curiosity, did you try seeing if the shadows had been recoverable if you'd shot out the window(without flash) and then brought the inside up in post?
Modern sensors have pretty incredible dynamic range especially in the shadows and at or close to base ISO-I'm often amazed at how well I'm able to see "out the window" in a scene like the above just using ambient light.
Modern sensors have pretty incredible dynamic range especially in the shadows and at or close to base ISO-I'm often amazed at how well I'm able to see "out the window" in a scene like the above just using ambient light.
Did not try that particular shot as I was mainly looking for a test subject.
That said I do agree with you about modern cameras and existing light. Simon of AQ Outdoors drafted me on the spot to do a quick photo of the winner of the Pyranha Kayak at our recent river rendezvous. This was shot at an ISO of 800 with my little Oly, just using the regular LED lighting in the pavilion. I did only some minor post image blending to combine the best facial expression with the best image of the boat. Let me add that three seconds is nowhere near sufficent time to set up the perfect product/people shoot, nor would a little Olympus Waterproof be my first camera choice!
Just a note of interest regarding the 18-140 lens. Minimum aperture is ƒ-22 at the wide angle end, and ƒ-40 at the extreme telephoto end. I have noted a slight loss in sharpness when using minimum aperture. Still very acceptable but for best results I would want to open up one stop from minimum regardless of the focal length.
Most modern lenses are really darn good, and it’s not uncommon for even a kit lens to be diffraction limited at f/8 or even f/5.6.
What that means practically is that you can go smaller if you need the dof(and I’ll go to f/64 effective or smaller in macro if needed) but for maximum resolution f/5.6 or f/8 is often best. Of course test your gear to see what’s best
What that means practically is that you can go smaller if you need the dof(and I’ll go to f/64 effective or smaller in macro if needed) but for maximum resolution f/5.6 or f/8 is often best. Of course test your gear to see what’s best
Sorry to interrupt. Been looking at the Z5 instead, and still considering an Olympus E-M1 Mk III that goes with my current lenses. The 50 MP handheld mode looks inviting.
The Z5 is entry level 135 Format and isn't too expensive. Nikon lenses are expensive but I've noticed a lens or two from Viltrox which got my interest: 16mm f/1.8 and 85mm f/1.8 2nd version. Having an Ultra Wide angle lens, especially with a large aperture would be interesting. I had the Olympus 8mm f/1.8 fisheye lens and it was brilliant.
I like the idea of the Z50 and you've shown how good it is, but I still remember fighting with the D7200 to get what I wanted.
Everybodies needs are different, APS-c is perfect for me. Up to the challenge of doing 35mm neg and slide copying. Going with the half frame means the macro lens has head room to auto focus even when I crop in just a smidge. Not so with full frame. I also like the lighter weight and the lighter long term impact on my wallet.
I am perfectly happy using the 18-140 zoom as a Swiss Army knife type of lens. The kit lenses test a smidge sharper but in real world use most of us would be hard pressed to tell the difference, and not having to continuously swap lenses is a true blessing with Nikon mirrorless cameras.
Again I strongly advise against getting hung up with a particular brand when entering the mirrorless world. Find what fills your needs best. For me it was the Z-50, but that plus a second mortgage will get you breakfast at Starbucks.
So Saturday night a regional band 'The Chevelles' was making its last local appearance before folding up the tent at the end of the year. Decided to give the Z-50 a work out at ISO 3200. My first attempt at photographing a band and I was pleasantly surprised at the results. Especially as the local paper has decided to run with some of them.
Here's a taste:
Here's a taste:
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