MP 1,1-5,1 Opened up Mac Pro 3,1 - found disturbing scene. Help please Apple gurus!

[dMajor]

Use solder for electronics, which has a core of resin to make the solder flow well.
Solder for copper waterpipes etc is not adequate for the job.
Dont use liquid for cleaning surfaces (like for copper).
Use a soldering iron with a clean tip (you can sand it/use a file to clean it before plugging it in).
I'd use a soldering iron with a power of ~25-80 Watts.

Once soldering keep the parts absolutely still when the solder flows ,and check after cooling down that the solder is still a bit shiny, not dull.

Thanks mate. I got this little kit from Aldi, I think it meets all those requirements. Just watching this dude making up these practice PCB kits on youtube. Looks pretty straight forward. Small, sharp, tip on iron. Tin the tip. Contact both the component and board. Flow solder. Bob's your uncle.
Lol - I bet ya I screw it up...

 

[KeesMacPro]

Even with an Aldi kit ,it should be possible I guess...
Good contact between tip+parts is crucial= > the right Temp to make the solder flow naturally.

BTW: it's recommended to use "fresh" solder, solder oxidates and old solder will not work well .
Don't use Aldi solder it's crap

Bob's your uncle.

?

 

[dMajor]

Even with an Aldi kit ,it should be possible I guess...
Good contact between tip+parts is crucial= > the right Temp to make the solder flow naturally.

BTW: it's recommended to use "fresh" solder, solder oxidates and old solder will not work well .
Don't use Aldi solder it's crap

?

Thanks for further tips. I will check in with my assembled tools/materials tomorrow before commencing operation. Read all the service manual now. Still got to pull the Main heatsinks and few other bits before motherboard it seems. Being locked down ain't so bad if you got stuff to do and can get gear delivered. Some tunes to keep me company helps aswell...

 

[KeesMacPro]

Freddie Hubbard, SME, Thorens?
Could be a lot worse

 

[dMajor]

Freddie Hubbard, SME, Thorens?
Could be a lot worse

Yamaha YP-701 - Same vintage.
Thorens TD160 next on my list to try.

 

[dMajor]

Pushing ahead with disassembly here.
Can I leave the bluetooth card on the motherboard, and just disconnect the antenna from the card?
If so, how does it come off - sideways (parallel to board) or straight up away from card?
Trying hard not to break anything by applying force in wrong direction...

 

[KeesMacPro]

Disassembling a MP 3,1 is a while ago for me...
http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/macpro/macpro_early2008.pdf

 

[dMajor]

Disassembling a MP 3,1 is a while ago for me...
http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/macpro/macpro_early2008.pdf

That's the doc I'm working from.
They just say "disconnect".
Being cautious...

 

[dMajor]

Got the northbridge and both CPU heatsinks out!
Not bad going considering I'm working with this:

Motherboard looks a lot smaller all of a sudden, and job a lot less daunting.
Melbourne just went into stage 4 lockdown middle of this week. Bad timing. Think I can pick up some thermal paste on Monday, via click & collect. Will have to make do with what I've got otherwise. Including pissy little allen keys.

 

[dMajor]

Pair of tweezers to pry bluetooth antenna off. Up and away from card.
Kickin ass.

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

Pair of tweezers to pry bluetooth antenna off. Up and away from card.
Kickin ass.

You will need a lot of force to get them back in.

With a very short Hex-driver, it's a headache to assemble/disassemble the CPU heatsinks.
On the third time struggling with a short Hex-driver, I gave up and cut it down, then weld it to a long screwdriver. Motobike repair shops here are quite friendly, they helped me with the welding for less than a dollar.

 

[dMajor]

You will need a lot of force to get them back in.

With a very short Hex-driver, it's a headache to assemble/disassemble the CPU heatsinks.
On the third time struggling with a short Hex-driver, I gave up and cut it down, then weld it to a long screwdriver. Motobike repair shops here are quite friendly, they helped me with the welding for less than a dollar.

Thanks for the tip - will keep that in mind.
Service manual doesn't mention extra torque being needed for re-install:

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

I meant the force needed to re-install the antenna to the Blue-tooth or Wifi-card.
Not a lot of torque is required to install CPU heatsinks, but getting through the surrounding to the screws is trouble-some. It will be much easier and faster with a proper tool. Of course, if you can't obtain the proper tool for less cost (time/labour), then I guess you'd have to make do with whatever in hand.

 

[dMajor]

I meant the force needed to re-install the antenna to the Blue-tooth or Wifi-card.
Not a lot of torque is required to install CPU heatsinks, but getting through the surrounding to the screws is trouble-some. It will be much easier and faster with a proper tool. Of course, if you can't obtain the proper tool for less cost (time/labour), then I guess you'd have to make do with whatever in hand.

Ok, cool. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[FarmerBob]

http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/macpro/macpro_early2008.pdf

"Ooooooo!" "THANK YOU!!!" "Christmas . . .

 

[dMajor]

13 cables disconnected - 1 to go. This one looks delicate:

Does it disconnect in this direction?

Is there a clasp, or button or release that I'm meant to be pressing?

 

[DFP1989]

Being locked down ain't so bad if you got stuff to do and can get gear delivered.

#ThanksDan

 

[dMajor]

#ThanksDan

I hope that's sincere. I'm a big fan of the Premier and won't have him disparaged in my thread. Serious.

 

[Ludacrisvp]

13 cables disconnected - 1 to go. This one looks delicate:

View attachment 942382

Does it disconnect in this direction?

View attachment 942383

Is there a clasp, or button or release that I'm meant to be pressing?

This is the cable that passes data to all 4 of the drive bays. Known as a miniSAS SFF8087 connector.
the metal tab does need to be depressed on the left side in the Photo (cable side) To be able to be removed. It does slide towards the front of the case. You can see the two small metal hooks that clip in through those slotted holes near the connector.

 

[dMajor]

This is the cable that passes data to all 4 of the drive bays. Known as a miniSAS SFF8087 connector.
the metal tab does need to be depressed on the left side in the Photo (cable side) To be able to be removed. It does slide towards the front of the case. You can see the two small metal hooks that clip in through those slotted holes near the connector.

Sweet - got it off. Thanks buddy.
About to order some Thermal paste. This is the stuff I want yeah?

Price is a rip off - but they're the only people in my lockdown perimiter and they do contactless pick-up. And I have to get on with this job.
Is 3.5 grams going to be enough to reinstall my repaired SouthBridge, Northbridge, and 2 x CPU Heatsinks?

 

[DFP1989]

Price is a rip off - but they're the only people in my lockdown perimiter and they do contactless pick-up. And I have to get on with this job.
Is 3.5 grams going to be enough to reinstall my repaired SouthBridge, Northbridge, and 2 x CPU Heatsinks?

It is a rip off, but you shouldn't have any trouble covering those four.

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

Sweet - got it off. Thanks buddy.
About to order some Thermal paste. This is the stuff I want yeah?

Price is a rip off - but they're the only people in my lockdown perimiter and they do contactless pick-up. And I have to get on with this job.
Is 3.5 grams going to be enough to reinstall my repaired SouthBridge, Northbridge, and 2 x CPU Heatsinks?

If you don't waste it too much, and success in the first run, then 3.5g is enough for 4~5 sets at least.
I bought only 2g tiny bag, and still have a lot in the bag after applying to 2 CPUs.

 

[dMajor]

Beset by problems - my soldering iron is buggered and won't heat up.
Borrowed neighbours - gets plenty hot but can't tin the tip - solder just balls up against itself and won't stick to the iron. Have given it a bit of a sand, but didn't make any difference. Tried 2 different types of solder. Same result.
Any suggestions?

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

Beset by problems - my soldering iron is buggered and won't heat up.
Borrowed neighbours - gets plenty hot but can't tin the tip - solder just balls up against itself and won't stick to the iron. Have given it a bit of a sand, but didn't make any difference. Tried 2 different types of solder. Same result.
Any suggestions?

Apply some flux, perhaps?

 

[dMajor]

Apply some flux, perhaps?

What is flux? Learnt how to solder with rosin wire. Never used it?