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The Retina MacBook Pro has a completely different gMux circuit, as it uses eDP instead of LVDS. It is actually pretty easy to tell the system to use only Intel HD Graphics on one of these systems, however it is unnecessary as the GPUs in Retinas never fail. The method I've posted in this thread will also work on 2010 15"/17" models, however it is also unnecessary on those machines, as the GPUs in them never fail either.
Hi can share how to tell the system to use only Intel HD Graphics on Retina MacBook Pro as i have problem with mine.
Thank you.
 
Hi can share how to tell the system to use only Intel HD Graphics on Retina MacBook Pro as i have problem with mine.
Thank you.
Repair it properly and apply new solder to U8900 (GPU VCORE regulator IC). This is a very common issue and is relatively easy to repair. No need to disable the dedicated GPU, as it's not defective.
 
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Repair it properly and apply new solder to U8900 (GPU VCORE regulator IC). This is a very common issue and is relatively easy to repair. No need to disable the dedicated GPU, as it's not defective.
I have all ready change it from donor board but no luck MBP boot to black screen and when keyboard backlight comes if i close the lid and open it after 2-3 min i have image on screen but system does not recognize the dedicated GPU only iris.
So please if you know the jumpers for disable it let me know.
 
has somebody figured out, how to make external monitor work with HD3000.
that would be awesome, if that should work...

I remember dosdude1n was talking about a wire mod in his video, maybay somebody got this working and figured out how to wire it.. ?
 
has somebody figured out, how to make external monitor work with HD3000.
that would be awesome, if that should work...

I remember dosdude1n was talking about a wire mod in his video, maybay somebody got this working and figured out how to wire it.. ?
It can't be done, unfortunately, as the DP output lines from the iGPU (PCH) are NC pads... Meaning they're not fanned out on the board, meaning that there's nowhere to solder wires to. So unfortunately, it will never be possible.
 
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Here is my version... No need to take out the logicboard.
Don't forget to remove R8911. I prefer rotating it 90˚ on one of the pins (see picture).
Tested with El Capitan, Sierra and High Sierra (clean install from USB on actual modified MacBook Pro 15).
Same limitations apply:
• External video not working
• Brightness not working


Hello,
I followed your method Matejh well but it doesn't work for me.
I would like to point out that the GPU is unsoldered from the motherboard (820-2915).
the backlight is present but nothing on the screen.
in order to get backlight, I connect U9000 (5 and 6) PP3V3_S5 to LCD_BKL_EN
I performed an SMC Reset and removed R8911
Could you help me?

Thank you
 
Hello,
I followed your method Matejh well but it doesn't work for me.
I would like to point out that the GPU is unsoldered from the motherboard (820-2915).
the backlight is present but nothing on the screen.
in order to get backlight, I connect U9000 (5 and 6) PP3V3_S5 to LCD_BKL_EN
I performed an SMC Reset and removed R8911
Could you help me?

Thank you
Wire your enable lines like so (you should follow the wiring diagram in the OP EXCEPT for the following -- I still need to update it):

- Connect LVDS_IG_BKL_ON to LCD_BKLT_EN
- Connect LVDS_IG_PANEL_PWR to LCD_PWR_EN
- Connect PP3V3_S0 to LCD_BKLT_PWM (only if not using DyingLight for brightness control)
- Connect PP3V3_S0 to LVDS_DDC_SEL_IG (this is probably what you're missing)

Once done, the display should come on and show an image.
 
hello together.
I found this thread from dosdude1 with the hand-drawn schema and was very happy to implement it right at my MBP 17"...
But when I unscrewed my MBP I noticed that everything looks different on the schema of MBP 15" from dosdude1.

Since here in the forum some people have already done the whole thing on a 17" I wanted to ask if you could provide a hand-drawn schema?
 
Wire your enable lines like so (you should follow the wiring diagram in the OP EXCEPT for the following -- I still need to update it):

- Connect LVDS_IG_BKL_ON to LCD_BKLT_EN
- Connect LVDS_IG_PANEL_PWR to LCD_PWR_EN
- Connect PP3V3_S0 to LCD_BKLT_PWM (only if not using DyingLight for brightness control)
- Connect PP3V3_S0 to LVDS_DDC_SEL_IG (this is probably what you're missing)

Once done, the display should come on and show an image.


Hi dosdude1,
Thank's for your answer and it worked perfectly
Is there any schematic for 820-2580 ?
 
That solution will require you to repeat the whole process every time you do an OS update, and when you reset the PRAM. It also requires that all AMD kexts be deleted from Mac OS. Yes, it works, but it is not a permanent solution like this is.

Hi DosDude1!

First off, thank you so much for all your efforts benefiting the legacy Macs community - its been of great help to be able to use your patches for High Sierra on a bunch of my older 2008-2009 Macs.

I finally got around to trying out your software solution for 2011 failing GPUs on a couple of my MacBook Pros 8,2 units running 10.13.6 (without the 2018-002 security update). One of them has a gradually failing AMD GPU, the other one is still reliable.

Despite following all the setup instructions and then running "MacBook Pro dGPU Disabler" v 1.02 (12/27/2017), which reports a success with every step, it actually does not do anything (i.e. remove AMD extensions from the system, or back them up to the root, or add a LaunchDaemon to the Library).

The machine I am on now (the reliable one) does default boot to Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB, however, when I plug in the external display it switches over to the AMD GPU, which runs with full normal acceleration. It does switch back to the Intel GPU once external display is disconnected.

Any ideas on what is going on? Some guidance would be much appreciated, I really hope to disable GPUs on these, and they will not be updated with a newer OS in the future.

Many thanks!
 
@dosdude1

props dude, really enjoyed watching the videos on your YouTube channel, and glad to see you implemented a solution to fix the issue with the display brightness. After a friendly fellow pointed me to your MacBook Pro dGPU Disabler.app I was able to bring an old 2011 15" MBP back to life ‍♂️ which I am pretty stoked on to say the least. That said, other than the brightness not being able to be modified, ie. only having one level of brightness after running the above mentioned app something else that I have noticed is that if the hard drive goes to sleep then the computer never fully "wakes up", and what I mean by that is if I set the screen to go to sleep after 1 minute. The screen will go black, then I can press a shift key on the keyboard and the desktop screen will illuminate. That said, if I set the hard drive to sleep after 1 minute of inactivity along with the display, ie. both display and hard drive have been set to sleep after 1 minute of inactivity, the computer appears to wake from sleep because I can toggle the caps lock and notice how the green LED will light on and off, however the screen remains black. Is this something you have experienced? In closing, thanks again for your efforts, and even more thanks for sharing your findings. I put a little album together of my progress here

Final question, did you performing the disable of the dGPU on Sierra allow you to control the brightness without the hardware mode? I ask because when reading this thread I remember reading someone mentioning that hw brightness worked if the box was running Sierra.

cheers
Chris
 
@dosdude1

props dude, really enjoyed watching the videos on your YouTube channel, and glad to see you implemented a solution to fix the issue with the display brightness. After a friendly fellow pointed me to your MacBook Pro dGPU Disabler.app I was able to bring an old 2011 15" MBP back to life ‍♂️ which I am pretty stoked on to say the least. That said, other than the brightness not being able to be modified, ie. only having one level of brightness after running the above mentioned app something else that I have noticed is that if the hard drive goes to sleep then the computer never fully "wakes up", and what I mean by that is if I set the screen to go to sleep after 1 minute. The screen will go black, then I can press a shift key on the keyboard and the desktop screen will illuminate. That said, if I set the hard drive to sleep after 1 minute of inactivity along with the display, ie. both display and hard drive have been set to sleep after 1 minute of inactivity, the computer appears to wake from sleep because I can toggle the caps lock and notice how the green LED will light on and off, however the screen remains black. Is this something you have experienced? In closing, thanks again for your efforts, and even more thanks for sharing your findings. I put a little album together of my progress here

Final question, did you performing the disable of the dGPU on Sierra allow you to control the brightness without the hardware mode? I ask because when reading this thread I remember reading someone mentioning that hw brightness worked if the box was running Sierra.

cheers
Chris
Yes, if running Sierra 10.12.3 or earlier, you will not have the no backlight after sleep issue, and brightness control will work fine. However, it WILL have these issues when running 10.12.4 or later. With the hardware modification detailed in this thread, though, you will have no issues at all waking from sleep on any OS version (including 10.12.4 and later), and even brightness control will work if you install one of my "DyingLight" backlight control modules.
 
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Hello everybody )
@dosdude1 Thank you for solving this problem )
sorry, may be it was asked before...

This program http://dosdude1.com/gpudisable/ does improve thermal problem after deleting AMD* kexts ?


I mean this article https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/267581/gpu-problem-boot-hangs-on-grey-screen/295805#295805
After these steps the temperature of my mac (MBP late 2011 17") decreases on 7-9 degrees C.

Thank you for answer
It does not. The best option, though, is to perform this hardware bypass, which will involve disconnecting power from the GPU chip entirely, and as such, it won't produce any heat at all.
 
It does not. The best option, though, is to perform this hardware bypass, which will involve disconnecting power from the GPU chip entirely, and as such, it won't produce any heat at all.


Thank you so much for this. Will attempt as soon as I get the chip from Ebay!
 
Do you want replace GPU chip ?
It's not worth it, as the new chips are still the same defective garbage, thanks to AMD being trash as usual. The ONLY good option is to permanently disable the dGPU, as I explain in the OP.
 
It's not worth it, as the new chips are still the same defective garbage, thanks to AMD being trash as usual. The ONLY good option is to permanently disable the dGPU, as I explain in the OP.
that's depends of source, but there is some people who successfully replaced whole GPU chip
 
that's depends of source, but there is some people who successfully replaced whole GPU chip
Yes, and I have as well, but the new chips die after like a year, or even sooner. AMD never actually fixed the manufacturing defect they had.
 
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Yes, and I have as well, but the new chips die after like a year, or even sooner. AMD never actually fixed the manufacturing defect they had.

there is also possibility to upgrade whole logic board to newer 2012 (only 15"), but currently I doubt it's worth investing, because GF 650M has also problems, actually Apple never admitted about problems with GPU in cMBP Non-Retina 2012 15", only Retina models are under Apple program
 
there is also possibility to upgrade whole logic board to newer 2012 (only 15"), but currently I doubt it's worth investing, because GF 650M has also problems, actually Apple never admitted about problems with GPU in cMBP Non-Retina 2012 15", only Retina models are under Apple program
Nope, the GT650M never had any issues. There was an issue with the GPU VCORE regulator IC on the Retina models, which caused no video, but the chip itself never fails.
 
Which chip are you referring to? You don't need any extra hardware, unless of course you get a DyingLight module for backlight control.

Yep, I ordered one of those from the link you provided. Just need a magnifying setup and patience. I solder on my job but the smallest things we work on are 10 pin seacon connectors. This will be fun.

Ive kept this machine in a cover when not in use and never did much more than watch movies and small Photoshop projects so I didn't even track the recall. Fired it up last week, updated it and it just died once it was done.
 
Yep, I ordered one of those from the link you provided. Just need a magnifying setup and patience. I solder on my job but the smallest things we work on are 10 pin seacon connectors. This will be fun.

Ive kept this machine in a cover when not in use and never did much more than watch movies and small Photoshop projects so I didn't even track the recall. Fired it up last week, updated it and it just died once it was done.
I actually have a new hardware solution in the works, utilizing a custom board I designed instead of tiny bodge wires. It's not done yet, but here's a photo of what it looks like. I expect to have it finished and in production in about 3 weeks or so.

46139601_1776032472522629_3631555317336113152_o.jpg
 
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