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Photo of the Day: July 2014
- Thread starter Designer Dale
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Thanks. I still have most of the Red Arrows to process, but its been far to warm to sit inside every evening at the moment.
Superior Brewery by ALXPhotog, on Flickr
I'm a little bummed that I chopped off the top right corner of the building, but eh, I still like the photograph.
You hardly notice these medieval farming strips (known as lynchets), unless the sun is low in the sky. Appletreewick in Wharfedale...
Haven't been posting much, too busy getting myself in and out of trouble. Exhibit A:
Spent lots of time in the local woods, but not a lot of stopping for photos, as beautiful as it often is. I might spam you with photos that include motorcycles, if no one minds
That pic sort of brings back memory of the Morning in a Pine Forest painting. Just gotta catch it in a nice morning fog next time.
Spent lots of time in the local woods, but not a lot of stopping for photos, as beautiful as it often is. I might spam you with photos that include motorcycles, if no one minds
That pic sort of brings back memory of the Morning in a Pine Forest painting. Just gotta catch it in a nice morning fog next time.
Been a while since I've posted around here. So here's something from a recent nighttime shoot in downtown Los Angeles.
Hah! That's my local beach/longexposure/sunset spot. I know those rocks all too well (check out my flickr and you'll see several choice captures from that same spot). hehe.
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Thank you.
Nothing outlandish.
Canon 6D, EF16-35/f4
EXIF: ISO100, f11, 16mm, 30 second exposure (tripod, of course).
It was shot from the 4th street bridge, overlooking the 110 fwy (for those familiar with downtown LA).
The long exposure takes care of the car lights and turns them into those trails.
The photo was fairly minimally processed in Lightroom (i'm not one to spend too much time on PP) to adjust perspective (lens correction, getting the verticals vertical, which is a bit of a challenge when shooting at 16mm). And a teeny bit of saturation and sharpening, to make the colors pop.
And an extra bonus point for you for the LA Kings avatar. I'll be near Oceanside tomorrow (heading out to Del Mar for the races, hoping to get some interesting shots).
Honestly, forget the post-processing bit if you're just starting out.
The rest is pretty simple if you have a tripod (kinda necessary for long exposures, to avoid camera shake).
Just set your camera on a tripod (or a still surface). Set to delayed trigger (2 second delay or 10 second delay, to avoid shaking the camera with your finger).
Then point it at a nighttime scene.
I shoot in Av mode (Aperture Priority mode) and therefore, I set the aperture to f11 or so (for maximum depth of field, ie, a sharp image all the way from close to far) and let the camera pick the appropriate shutter speed.
If you're shooting at night, said shutter speed will inevitably be quite long to let in enough light (mine worked out to 30 seconds by the camera) which will blur the cars or any movement happening in the frame.
Sorry if that is all pretty obvious to you. Otherwise, happy to help.
Get yourself a tripod and have an experiment. They are quite cheap (compared to other camera equipment) and can improve the range of shots you can try. For landscape/long exposure effects its a must.
PS: All my technical mumbo jumbo aside, take all that as a starting point. Nothing like experimenting yourself and discovering what works for you for a given shot.
And if you haven't done so yet, I strongly suggest reading Brian Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". It will pretty much explain all the relationships between ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture, which is 99% of what you need to know to be well on your way.
And if you haven't done so yet, I strongly suggest reading Brian Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". It will pretty much explain all the relationships between ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture, which is 99% of what you need to know to be well on your way.
Also if you click on the photo and go to the Flickr page, you can see the camera settings below the photo if you click on show more.
With some photos (depending on how they are posted) you can just use a show EXIF data Safari extension.
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I know I've mentioned it before, but his book on composition is pretty good to.
Thanks. No grain effect in PP, that's what it does at 1600. Didn't bother trying to fix it as I was just screwing around using the 135mm lens with an EVF. Easier to achieve focus at that focal length compared to the rangefinder.
It is and I've read both (and go back to them now and again, when I need some inspiration). I suggested Understanding Exposure first because a lot of newbies (including myself, when I started) feel a bit lost when the rest of us start throwing around EXIF info (and don't even get me started on strobist info! That can make one's head spin) that doesn't really MEAN anything to someone who has no idea how ISO, Shutter speed and Aperture interact to produce things like long exposures, DOF, etc.
I think once a newbie understand that "triangle" of exposure, the rest becomes a matter of practice and patience and creativity. And at that point, it makes sense to start understanding good composition, etc.
love it, will always take in help. thanks for all that.
done, ordered one on amazon.
im sure ill have bought the rokinon 8mm within a week. damn amazon and their prime!
no shot today, busy doing baby nursery stuff, maybe a shot after?!
Yup. Digital Ms aren't great low-light performers in general. The M9 is worse by about a stop. A fast lens can somewhat compensate for this.
The 135mm lens I used for this cat pic has a maximum aperture of f/3.4. I also needed a shutter speed of 1/180th sec to shoot it handheld without camera shake. Had I used a 50mm lens @ f/1.4 I could have shot it at 1/60th sec. That's 1.5 stops faster from the shutter speed and close to 3 stops faster from the aperture for a total of around 4 stops. The same exposure with the 50mm lens would have been at ISO 100 rather than ISO 1600 (not possible as the M(240) only goes to ISO 200). So I would have had about one full stop at ISO 200 and the same exposure to either increase shutter speed or stop down. Some wiggle room for creative purposes to either change DOF or shoot faster to prevent blur. Allowing the ISO to creep up to 400 or even 800 would have provided more creative wiggle room while still keeping noise to a relative minimum.
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Amazon Prime will be the death of me one of these days (or of my bank account, rather).
But yeah, a tripod is a great and cheap first step (when I say cheap, of course, I mean relatively speaking).
I'm wondering why you're looking at an 8mm lens. Seems a rather unusual focal length for a beginner. Something like that is used for a very very particular (and narrow) effect and seems a bit out of character for someone who's just starting out. Just curious.
But yeah, a tripod is a great and cheap first step (when I say cheap, of course, I mean relatively speaking).
I'm wondering why you're looking at an 8mm lens. Seems a rather unusual focal length for a beginner. Something like that is used for a very very particular (and narrow) effect and seems a bit out of character for someone who's just starting out. Just curious.
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