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katbel

macrumors 68040
Aug 19, 2009
3,633
32,594
1924 Vauxhall, 4.2 litre engine, found on the UK vehicle database ;)

Cheers :)

Hugh
Thanks for the quick response! Do you know if it's one of a kind or they produced few of those?
My photo was taken few years ago
 

cdcastillo

macrumors 68000
Dec 22, 2007
1,714
2,672
The cesspit of civilization
And another instance of Callistemon citrinus (thanks @katbel )
IMG_1354.jpeg
 

Hughmac

macrumors 603
Original poster
Feb 4, 2012
6,001
32,566
Kent, UK
Thanks for the quick response! Do you know if it's one of a kind or they produced few of those?
My photo was taken few years ago
Sorry, but the information from the government database is very sketchy and doesn't give a model name; just enough for a potential buyer to verify that road tax is paid up and the relevant safety checks are up to date.
It does however show that the vehicle is still roadworthy in the UK today, and that ownership last changed in 2012.

Cheers :)

Hugh
 
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tizeye

macrumors 68040
Jul 17, 2013
3,241
35,935
Orlando, FL
Not a great picture, but an unscheduled DIY - and took the picture as a shopping reference. Discovered slight stream of water on garage and identified source was cold water intake of hot water heater with sticker showing install date of 7/2004. Still works, so definitely got my money worth out of it, and even if replaced would still have the current problem to resolve. The problem is that the connectors, one of which split causing the leak, are no longer made, so have to "modernize" the connection. Thought I had it with two 3/4" female threaded to PEX connector, one of which fit fine at the hot water heater, but the pipe elbow connection needs a 1" to 3/4" reducer. They do make it, but note stocked by anyone, including local dedicated plumbing supply warehouse and Amazon overnight, with order delivery next week for each source. Too long to wait, so back to the drawing board today.

On a side note, I have no idea why they design, even today, the electrical connection without waterproof sealing since top leaks are not that uncommon. It was filled with water that I sucked out with a shop-vac and cleaned the connections.

IMG_0246.jpg
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
2,210
12,757
Denver, Colorado, USA
Even after the leaves fall from Aspens, they're lovely (I think) in early morning light. In fact, I love trees in winter.

Edit with additional note: This is a "practice" image where I'm trying to learn both the art and science of lens tilt. It's fascinating to watch the focus plane shift in live view. The upper parts of this image are not in sharp focus as a result of my particular tilt settings. This is a cropped image that has a set of logs in the foreground that I wanted to get acceptably sharp. Perhaps I'll post that one tomorrow.



P0001198.jpg
 
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Clix Pix

macrumors Core
Yesterday I went to Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, another wonderful gardens near where I live. There weren't many flowers still in bloom but the staff was busy anyway, putting lights on the trees and foliage and getting out various metal sculptures to also light up -- this is in preparation for their annual holiday season "Walk of Lights," which they do between Thanksgiving and just after New Year's each year.

When it's actually dark and everything is lit up, it should be a spectacular sight. In the meantime I got an unexpected preview:

Purple Lights in the Trees.jpeg
 
Last edited:

MacNut

macrumors Core
Jan 4, 2002
22,998
9,976
CT
Not a great picture, but an unscheduled DIY - and took the picture as a shopping reference. Discovered slight stream of water on garage and identified source was cold water intake of hot water heater with sticker showing install date of 7/2004. Still works, so definitely got my money worth out of it, and even if replaced would still have the current problem to resolve. The problem is that the connectors, one of which split causing the leak, are no longer made, so have to "modernize" the connection. Thought I had it with two 3/4" female threaded to PEX connector, one of which fit fine at the hot water heater, but the pipe elbow connection needs a 1" to 3/4" reducer. They do make it, but note stocked by anyone, including local dedicated plumbing supply warehouse and Amazon overnight, with order delivery next week for each source. Too long to wait, so back to the drawing board today.

On a side note, I have no idea why they design, even today, the electrical connection without waterproof sealing since top leaks are not that uncommon. It was filled with water that I sucked out with a shop-vac and cleaned the connections.

View attachment 1874547
Why are those not copper or hose lines?
 

tizeye

macrumors 68040
Jul 17, 2013
3,241
35,935
Orlando, FL
Why are those not copper or hose lines?
Copper is a sore subject as the prior owner removed all copper (corrosion/pitting/pinhole leaks etc) and had the house replumbed...using the #1 material at the time, polybutylene. With my updating kitchen, baths, etc have been ripping the poly out and replacing with 1/2" PEX and just have the main 3/4" lines to go on that project. I am actually happy that the supply line to the water heater is PEX as I took that portion in from the cutoff valve to Home Depot, the white pipe is 3/4" PEX (not PVC or CPVC). Those schedule 80 fittings were what was used back then and impossible to find. Also, looked at shielded supply line but 18" with screw threads at each end was too long, and the 12", while the correct length had push compression connection at one end that I am trying to keep away from, plus the need for it to turn down would put pressure on on connection.

Really simplifies as now don't have to deal with size reduction - straight 3/4 inch. Though about replacing the cutoff valve as well but have to cut off water to house, and if had a problem with the old PEX pipe could really be a problem. Will retain the current cutoff valve and cut along the white pipe to insert straight connector then with pipe to elbow turning down and have a female threaded connector to attach to water heater. Using the far more secure clamps rather than push connect. If no problems, the same exact material can update the hot side. Then, if no problem with both would consider cutting the clamp at the elbow and replace the top line including the cutoff valve, clamping it into the existing (old) PEX.

What I was really happy about was the electrical as they my have upgraded it during the install, however the water hearer elements and power draw would have supported the older 20 amp 12 gauge standard. The 30 amp 10 gauge wires will support current water heaters with the higher wattage elements. Also happy that the circuit was copper as my hose was built in 1973 during the few years aluminum was allowed. And yes, I have gotten rid of all Federal Pacific crap which was the cause of fires giving aluminum a bad name, and my "Covid DIY Project" was converting all switches and outlets with Alumniconn adapters and copper pigtails. Now it is finishing up the plumbing conversion exercise.
 

MacNut

macrumors Core
Jan 4, 2002
22,998
9,976
CT
Copper is a sore subject as the prior owner removed all copper (corrosion/pitting/pinhole leaks etc) and had the house replumbed...using the #1 material at the time, polybutylene. With my updating kitchen, baths, etc have been ripping the poly out and replacing with 1/2" PEX and just have the main 3/4" lines to go on that project. I am actually happy that the supply line to the water heater is PEX as I took that portion in from the cutoff valve to Home Depot, the white pipe is 3/4" PEX (not PVC or CPVC). Those schedule 80 fittings were what was used back then and impossible to find. Also, looked at shielded supply line but 18" with screw threads at each end was too long, and the 12", while the correct length had push compression connection at one end that I am trying to keep away from, plus the need for it to turn down would put pressure on on connection.

Really simplifies as now don't have to deal with size reduction - straight 3/4 inch. Though about replacing the cutoff valve as well but have to cut off water to house, and if had a problem with the old PEX pipe could really be a problem. Will retain the current cutoff valve and cut along the white pipe to insert straight connector then with pipe to elbow turning down and have a female threaded connector to attach to water heater. Using the far more secure clamps rather than push connect. If no problems, the same exact material can update the hot side. Then, if no problem with both would consider cutting the clamp at the elbow and replace the top line including the cutoff valve, clamping it into the existing (old) PEX.

What I was really happy about was the electrical as they my have upgraded it during the install, however the water hearer elements and power draw would have supported the older 20 amp 12 gauge standard. The 30 amp 10 gauge wires will support current water heaters with the higher wattage elements. Also happy that the circuit was copper as my hose was built in 1973 during the few years aluminum was allowed. And yes, I have gotten rid of all Federal Pacific crap which was the cause of fires giving aluminum a bad name, and my "Covid DIY Project" was converting all switches and outlets with Alumniconn adapters and copper pigtails. Now it is finishing up the plumbing conversion exercise.
I would cut back all the pipes from the heater to the wall and replace it. Either with PEX or copper to the heater. Those elbow connections are just a huge point of failure.
 
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