Well, for me a keeper is more or less a picture which goes into my initial album, where almost all images are ready to be shown to other eyes (not everything for everybody, of course) or can be adjusted for specific needs when sharing, and where images are quite mostly of size which I can print when necessary...Except some specific photos of personal value or something other - there can always be some exception...
Than, besides this list there is another - Favourite list, where only ‘best’ get in
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What is the lowest shutter speed you still feel comfortable with when RIII is handheld for portraits, some not really fast moving subjects?
My usual process when reviewing a series is to make a first pass and assign one star in LR for things in focus and a potentially acceptable composition/exposure. I'd say roughly 90% of pics get a star on this first pass. I like to see everything I shot before I start making decisions about potential keepers.
The second pass is to determine which ones I might spend more time with. In this pass I am really thinking about composition (and expressions if the subject is people). Some tweaking happens here (large exposure adjustments if needed, large WB corrections). This pass involves assigning two stars.
The third pass involves tweaking as these are images I consider keepers. I like the composition (and expressions if people pics). Assigning the third star means I like it enough that I will be sharing it or possibly printing it. Either at the 2 star or 3 star stage I've done a generic B&W conversion in LR and if the image had potential I may have done a conversion in Silver Efex Pro. At the 3 star stage I am cloning out/healing any sensor dust or other artifacts. I may be adding exposure gradients in LR. Masking certain areas for local edits. Making duplicates in LR (the copy image function) to try out different processing (either in LR or by exporting into Silver Efex Pro, Viveza, or other programs in the Nik suite). I often export 3 star pics to my desktop for either sharing or posting on MR. 4 star pics are ones I would consider printing (and I estimate them to be maybe 1% or less). 5 star pics are ones I consider my absolute best.
My 10-20% keeper rate refers to pics that get at least 3 stars. My standards for what gets the third star aren't totally constant, so it might be a little higher (or lower). But sorting LR by 3 stars means I am only seeing things that are at least "good" by my standards and have been processed in post. It's a good starting place looking for pics to print/share or for pics that I might want to look at again and process differently.
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Your second question is a little harder to answer as my reasoning may not be the answer you were expecting. I have my A7R3 set up to use 1/125th sec as a cutoff for upping the ISO (with ISO set to auto). This has nothing to do with lens/body image stabilization and everything to do with subject motion. In the past I had used a cutoff of 1/60th sec which was fine from a "compensate for camera shake" perspective. It wasn't fine from capturing a rarely-sitting-still little boy perspective
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With 1/60th sec I can get sharp photos if he isn't moving (and would likely be true at 1/30th sec or maybe even 1/15th sec). However, more often than not he isn't sitting still. Even for sedate pics (with him eating for example) there can be random bursts of movement that often involve the interesting expressions that I want to capture. At 1/125th sec I can freeze most movement unless he is really active. At 1/60th sec, his face may be sharp but any hand movements will be blurred. This can still result in a pleasing pic however. With experience shooting him over the years, I've had too many blurry pics at 1/60th sec or slower, not because of camera shake or focus miss but because of subject motion blur.
Image stabilization allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds to avoid camera shake but still creates blur if the shutter speed is too slow to freeze subject motion. It's certainly helpful, but doesn't obviate the need for a faster aperture, higher ISO, or better light (i.e. flash) to freeze motion.
In regard to the latter, I've been using off-camera flash quite extensively recently in indoor people pics (usually bouncing off the ceiling and not using an umbrella). The Sony system isn't the cheapest solution, but it works really, really well. Requires a commander unit in the flash shoe on the camera, but then the flash(es) can be placed anywhere. TTL exposure is usually solid without having to make any adjustments. It's also really easy (and intuitive) to make any flash output changes on the commander unit without having to dig through menus (even if using the flashes in manual mode and not TTL) or without having to touch the flashes themselves. It's the easiest to use flash system I have ever used.
For me, the ease of use (like an order of magnitude better compared to third party solutions or the Nikon flash system) and excellent quality of the output justify the increased cost.
