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Normal? No. An indicator that it needs to be replaced? Yes.
Uh, what? I think he was talking about the memory pressure graph being red.

There is no disk pressure indicator.

Was clearing out some iOS backups from the HDD last night and iMac really slowed down again during this. I opened activity monitor and pressure graph was red. Is this normal when deleting large files from the HDD? Would the addition of an SSD resolve this?
 
Uh, what? I think he was talking about the memory pressure graph being red.

There is no disk pressure indicator.
Yes, it was the memory pressure graph that went red when I was deleting the iOS backups, but it hasn't happened since. I also had the Photos App open at the time which may have had something to do with it. I have also made a few changes like turning off animations, reducing transparency, emptying Safari caches, SMT and PRAM restarts, which all seem to have improved things.
 
I added 8gb ram yesterday also. Now 12 gb total.
It is noticeably faster.
I am holding off on ssd upgrade.
 
Would an SSHD or Fusion Drive be worth considering as a replacement for the HDD?

If you need capacity and have to open the iMac anyway to replace a failed HDD go for it. Otherwise I'm not convinced the gain over a perfectly good 7200rpm HDD is worth the tool expense overhead and upgrade hassle.
 
From my experience, upgrading to an SDD drive provided the most performance increase in my 2011 iMac. Followed by the jump from 4GB to 8GB (upgrading from 8GB to 16GB was negligible with SSD).
 
My iMac used to use 3.xx GB when I had 4GB RAM.
Now it is using 5.XX GB which means it is happier!

Edit: Now it is using 6.66 GB. I am not using more apps but the memory used keeps creeping up.
The computer is getting spoiled..

2cok8s9.jpg
 
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From my experience, upgrading to an SDD drive provided the most performance increase in my 2011 iMac. Followed by the jump from 4GB to 8GB (upgrading from 8GB to 16GB was negligible with SSD).
It all depends on your applications and uses. Mine was unhappy at 24G and fine with 32G.

I don’t know that my wife’s ever need more than the 4G it came with. Putting my surplus 4g sticks into hers bumped it to 12G — no reason to think it made much difference.
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1. Don’t get an SSHD.

2. A Fusion drive is two drives fused in software. Not recommended either.
Agree 100%.

A 2011 27” has two SATA III busses plus a SATA II for the optical drive. Pointless to fuse a pair of SSDs when one larger one is less expensive.

A 2011 21.5” has one of each buss. Retaining the optical drive makes a fusion impossible.

An SSHD still requires opening it up and installing a temp sensor. If a 2.5”, you still need a bracket.

Just install an SSD. You could have done one action per day following the iFixIt guidelines and have been done by now.
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From my experience, upgrading to an SDD drive provided the most performance increase in my 2011 iMac. Followed by the jump from 4GB to 8GB (upgrading from 8GB to 16GB was negligible with SSD).

This. Plus it runs cooler and will last longer.
 
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I've tried to be really clear on that point.

I understand that you're in the UK so I don't know what kind of prices you're looking at. You're asking about spending $99 for a test app and another $60 on a useless "cleaning" app. Although TTP is good, I service a lot of Macs and can justify the cost.

Let's take a look at what things cost: $159 is around £125.

You can get a 1T SSD for £59. It's a Micron 1100
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Docooler-I...e=UTF8&qid=1540948180&sr=8-19&keywords=1T+SSD

An 1100 is the same SSD as a Crucial MX300 (same company) but there's no warranty. It's an OEM and the VARS who use it in their products are expected to handle any customer service issue without sending it back to Micron/Crucial.

Don't buy an MX300 for £179 because there's better value. The MX500 has a 5 year warranty and costs £137, for example
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX...540948806&sr=8-25-spons&keywords=1T+SSD&psc=1

There are less expensive 1T SSDs like the Mushkin but I don't know what the warranty is. My recommendation for you is to go with the 1100. I have never had one go bad but I would get a commitment from the seller on some kind of return privilege in case of a defect.

Do you need the £9 bracket? Not really but it's highly recommended. You can attach it to the foil on the back with double-stick foam tape and people do. I don't.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-De...sr=8-5&keywords=2.5+to+3.5+hard+drive+adapter

The temp sensor on a 2011 iMac. The OWC is the ideal solution and looks like this. The included tape and pick are for the 2012–on but on AmazonUK, it's more expensive without them, oddly enough.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/OWC-OWCDID...ords=owc+in-line+digital+thermal+sensor+cable

Without the sensor, you have to control the fans manually. There are freeware apps that pop up a control panel. I tried that for awhile and hated it.

I know an inexpensive workaround for the 2009–2010 but not the 2011.
I have found this one on Amazon which looks great value at £55 for a 512GB and comes with 3 year warranty.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicon-Po...nce-Internal/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Any comments on this one please?

Would install it internally use it as boot drive and retain existing HDD for storage.

Is it still possible to use one external HDD as a Time Machine backup drive for the internal SSD and HDD?
 
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I have found this one on Amazon which looks great value at £55 for a 512GB and comes with 3 year warranty.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicon-Po...nce-Internal/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Any comments on this one please?

Would install it internally use it as boot drive and retain existing HDD for storage.

Is it still possible to use one external HDD as a Time Machine backup drive for the internal SSD and HDD?
https://wccftech.com/review/silicon-power-a55-512gb-review-is-it-any-good/amp/

It will work but if this is your main machine you may want to consider a more mainstream brand with better performance, if cost permits.
 
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£55 with a 3 year warranty. It's an older NAND design which, in real world performance means nothing by itself but these are more likely to need someone to back up that warranty. The Crucial MX300 is similar.

Those with 3D NAND such as the current Toshiba made WD 3D Blue & SanDisk 3D (same drive), Crucial MX500 and Samsung 860EVO are priced only a little more, are newer technology and have 5 year warranties. That they are also faster in bench tests will not affect affect real world performance in a 2011 iMac.

The Micron 1T 1100 has no warranty at all but it is priced less. Once you've gone into an iMac the first time, doing it again is quite easy. The bracket and sensor are one-time purchases and are re-used if you change SSDs later.
 
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£55 with a 3 year warranty. It's an older NAND design which, in real world performance means nothing by itself but these are more likely to need someone to back up that warranty. The Crucial MX300 is similar.

Those with 3D NAND such as the current Toshiba made WD 3D Blue & SanDisk 3D (same drive), Crucial MX500 and Samsung 860EVO are priced only a little more, are newer technology and have 5 year warranties. That they are also faster in bench tests will not affect affect real world performance in a 2011 iMac.

The Micron 1T 1100 has no warranty at all but it is priced less. Once you've gone into an iMac the first time, doing it again is quite easy. The bracket and sensor are one-time purchases and are re-used if you change SSDs later.
What do you mean by “these are more likely to need someone to back up that warranty”. Also, the Micro 1100 is actually more expensive in the UK.
 
This is probably out of budget but any thoughts on buying a new Mini and using your iMac as the monitor?
 
I've probably installed a hundred or more Micron 1100 and Crucial MX300 SSDs. I've had to eat the drive (Micron) or send in for warranty (Crucial) five times. That's five more than I have had to do with the Sanyo.

When there was a large price difference, it was a consideration. Now that there's very little spread, I tend to recommend the 5 year warranty.

The £ prices I quoted were Amazon UK. They were current the day I posted them. I don't see that a £49 1TB Micron 1100 is more expensive than a £55 512G SSD from another company—it ain't.

You've asked the same question so many times in so many ways that getting the answers confused is understandable.

I've relatives in London and buy from AmazonUK from time to time so it's one of my saved bookmarks.
 
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I've probably installed a hundred or more Micron 1100 and Crucial MX300 SSDs. I've had to eat the drive (Micron) or send in for warranty (Crucial) five times. That's five more than I have had to do with the Sanyo.

When there was a large price difference, it was a consideration. Now that there's very little spread, I tend to recommend the 5 year warranty.

The £ prices I quoted were Amazon UK. They were current the day I posted them. I don't see that a £49 1TB Micron 1100 is more expensive than a £55 512G SSD from another company—it ain't.

You've asked the same question so many times in so many ways that getting the answers confused is understandable.

I've relatives in London and buy from AmazonUK from time to time so it's one of my saved bookmarks.
When I read the small print for the Micron on the Amazon page the £49 only gets you 240GB storage.
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This is probably out of budget but any thoughts on buying a new Mini and using your iMac as the monitor?
Did give it a thought but way over budget at the moment. Just looking to make some improvements that will last me another couple of years with the 2011 iMac hence trying to keep the cost down.
 
I have found this one on Amazon which looks great value at £55 for a 512GB and comes with 3 year warranty.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicon-Po...nce-Internal/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Any comments on this one please?

Would install it internally use it as boot drive and retain existing HDD for storage.

Is it still possible to use one external HDD as a Time Machine backup drive for the internal SSD and HDD?
Have ordered the Silicon Power 512GB and the OWC kit for installing it as a second drive so hopefully it all goes well!
 
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Part way through installation. Have got front glass off and removed the screws for the LCD panel. However, really struggling to get the first cable unplugged (top left vertical sync cable). It looks different from the one in the OWC instruction video. Do I pull it towards me i.e. away from the back of the Mac or pull it to the right.
IMG_0105.jpg
 
Pull the vertical sync (center of picture) to the right. If this is the first time the cable has been disconnected since it left the factory then it will probably be jammed in tight and require more effort than you would expect to work loose.

(Also check if the instruction video is for 21.5" or 27").
 
Pull the vertical sync (center of picture) to the right. If this is the first time the cable has been disconnected since it left the factory then it will probably be jammed in tight and require more effort than you would expect to work loose.

(Also check if the instruction video is for 21.5" or 27").
Thanks, after many attempts finally managed to disconnect it.
 
Okay, so have completed the addition of the SSD. Have powered up the iMac, heard the chime, but display is completely black and then can hear fans running at full speed. What have I done wrong?
 
I now have the new SSD (512GB) set up and I transferred (using migration assistant) everything from my HDD (1TB, but only 400GB used) onto the SSD. So I now effectively have two copies of the same system on each drive. The SSD is now set as the boot drive and has about 100GB spare capacity. Was thinking of wiping the HDD and then moving photos (180GB) and music (35GB) libraries across to it to free up space on the SSD. What is the best way to do this?

Also, on the new SSD I now appear to have two users (both me). One appears to be migrated from the HDD, whilst the other appears to be when I installed the OS (High Sierra) onto the new SSD in recovery mode. Can/should I delete the 2nd user (the one associated with installing the OS)?

I had MS Office 2011 on the HDD and it has migrated over to the SSD. However, when I try to open it it is asking for a product key. Can I transfer the product key from the HDD onto the SSD after I wipe the HDD?

I have an external HDD that I used for Time Machine backups for the HDD. Can I still use this to back up both drives after moving the photos and music libraries?
 
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