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Guys - can anybody recommend a reliable USB-C to SATA 3.5 HDD adaptor (just adaptor, don't need enclosure). If it supports Thunderbolt 4/3 to connect to a Mac, even better and of course need large drive support 18TB+. Hoping to get something under $30
Thanks
 
You have a good point, now it's about finding a good cable brand. Anker has been my go-to as well and they never disappointed so far. I'm sure it won't be different for USB-C. I've also had good experiences with Baseus and Aukey.
I bought two Anker PowerPoint III chargers, and one died in a couple of years with minimal usage. One day it just stopped working. I guess that's better than burning up I suppose.
 
I bought two Anker PowerPoint III chargers, and one died in a couple of years with minimal usage. One day it just stopped working. I guess that's better than burning up I suppose.
If you have a failure like this give Anker a call. I did when one of My Anker chargers quit. It was out of warranty but they sent me a 20% off coupon to get its replacement.
 
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Are there any 8TB external hard drives that don't require being plugged into a wall outlet? Because the options seem to be slim. I saw one on Amazon, but from a brand I'm not familiar with. Vecto Tech. And it's a SSD so it's really expensive, $619.
 
Are there any 8TB external hard drives that don't require being plugged into a wall outlet? Because the options seem to be slim. I saw one on Amazon, but from a brand I'm not familiar with. Vecto Tech. And it's a SSD so it's really expensive, $619.
A Western Digital 8TB bare drive (platter drive) consumes a maximum of 6.4 Watts (0.7 W idle), which is less than the 15/7.5 Watts provided by a MacBook Pro’s Thunderbolt ports… so it should be doable. I don’t know who makes the enclosure though.
 
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Are there any 8TB external hard drives that don't require being plugged into a wall outlet? Because the options seem to be slim. I saw one on Amazon, but from a brand I'm not familiar with. Vecto Tech. And it's a SSD so it's really expensive, $619.

You will probably need to go SSD, like a Samsung T5 Evo
 
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You will probably need to go SSD, like a Samsung T5 Evo
Yes, that will work, and it’s far faster than a platter drive, but probably 2-3x the cost. If that’s what he wants, it’ll fit the bill for sure.
 
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You will probably need to go SSD, like a Samsung T5 Evo
Yes, that will work, and it’s far faster than a platter drive, but probably 2-3x the cost. If that’s what he wants, it’ll fit the bill for sure.
Looks good. It’s just so expensive. I use a 4TB external drive now, so part of me wants to just keep using that until I need more space and hopefully they release an 8tb non-SSS one by the time I need it. But I'll lose any time machine snapshots I have if I switch.

I was looking at this one-


Maybe I'll just put up with plugging into an outlet. Its not worth an extra $500 just to bring it anywhere.
 
Looks good. It’s just so expensive. I use a 4TB external drive now, so part of me wants to just keep using that until I need more space and hopefully they release an 8tb non-SSS one by the time I need it. But I'll lose any time machine snapshots I have if I switch.

I was looking at this one-


Maybe I'll just put up with plugging into an outlet. Its not worth an extra $500 just to bring it anywhere.
I think it’s more reliable to plug into a wall anyway.
 
Kindly recommend USB-C hubs that are efficient in power consumption and versatile in functionality for MacBook M1 Pro 14-inch.
 
It’s finally here!

Just ordered my new keyboard and mouse. They arrive on Wednesday!
Here I was thinking most people use an2-button mouse. I still have the very first thinner one-button mouse but no longer use it. Find a 2-button Logitech one so much better. From a feel perspective, I prefer the older one-button mouse compared to the slimmer Magic Mouse though. Felt more full in the hand.
 
Probably going to buy a bad iMac mini for some someplace iMovie projects. Can anybody recommend a good external hard drive so I don't have to spend hundreds of dollars more to store all my video on. TYIA
 
"bad iMac mini" ... what does that refer to?

Get a TB NVMe SSD enclosure and purchase a compatible NVMe SSD. This provides an upgrade path when you want to increase your storage by simply replacing the NVMe SSD. I think there is one company selling a TB5 version now. Pricey but the performance is insane.


If you go the TB5 route you need to purchase the Pro version of the Mini that has TB5 ports.

A TB3/4 enclosure would likely have sufficient performance for what you are doing and they can be purchased these days for less than $50.
 
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"bad iMac mini" ... what does that refer to?

Get a TB NVMe SSD enclosure and purchase a compatible NVMe SSD. This provides an upgrade path when you want to increase your storage by simply replacing the NVMe SSD. I think there is one company selling a TB5 version now. Pricey but the performance is insane.


If you go the TB5 route you need to purchase the Pro version of the Mini that has TB5 ports.

A TB3/4 enclosure would likely have sufficient performance for what you are doing and they can be purchased these days for less than $50.
I'm not sure what a meant to type when I typed "bad". Maybe new? Anyway thanks for the advice!
 
My M4 Mac mini behaves differently with my Huawei monitor and Plugable hub than my M1 Mac mini did.

M1 Mac mini 16 GB / 1 TB
M4 Mac mini 24 GB / 512 GB
Huawei 28.2" 3840x2560 4K+ monitor connected via USB-C
Plugable Thunderbolt 4 / USB 4 hub
Thunderbolt 4 cables

Works: M1 --> monitor
Works: M1 --> hub --> monitor

Works: M4 --> monitor
Fails: M4 --> hub --> monitor. It will display properly when first plugged in but does not consistently wake from sleep.

Also, the monitor only seems to connect through the M4's rear USB-C ports. It does not work with the front ports. Is this normal, given the different port specs?
 
@EugW "...the monitor only seems to connect through the M4's rear USB-C ports.

Absolutely normal. There is no alt-mode DP signal in Mac data USB 3.* ports.
The alt-mode DP signal is 'tunnelled' through the TB3/4/USB4 data stream on Macs.

Alt-mode DP is an optional feature of later USB 3.* specifications, and has only ever been supported by Apple on non-TB3 Macs, like the 2015+ MacBooks.
 
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@EugW "...the monitor only seems to connect through the M4's rear USB-C ports.

Absolutely normal. There is no alt-mode DP signal in Mac data USB 3.* ports.
The alt-mode DP signal is 'tunnelled' through the TB3/4/USB4 data stream on Macs.

Alt-mode DP is an optional feature of later USB 3.* specifications, and has only ever been supported by Apple on non-TB3 Macs, like the 2015+ MacBooks.
Thx. Yep, it works with my non-Thunderbolt 2017 MacBook 12", which is why I was wondering.
 
@samven582
It's either A Laser printer (with toner) or an InkJet printer with ink cartridges.
Or an HP Laserjet printer which is HP's branding for their laser printer.
Which do you want advice on?
 
"bad iMac mini" ... what does that refer to?

Get a TB NVMe SSD enclosure and purchase a compatible NVMe SSD. This provides an upgrade path when you want to increase your storage by simply replacing the NVMe SSD. I think there is one company selling a TB5 version now. Pricey but the performance is insane.


If you go the TB5 route you need to purchase the Pro version of the Mini that has TB5 ports.

A TB3/4 enclosure would likely have sufficient performance for what you are doing and they can be purchased these days for less than $50.
 
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