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I hear that's quite messy work.
Not if you break it into sections. The pressure washing, at least. You simply rent a hot water pressure washer capable of exerting over 3,000 PSI. I recommend renting because to buy a unit for a few uses is silly and not smart. Using hot water, you can avoid having to use stronger detergents as you would with cold water. Additionally, there's some earth safe detergents out there made for hot water use. You'll use less water to clean grime off. Once everything's done, you wait a few days for it to dry out. Then use a stiff nylon brush and sweep everything down. Pour sealer and use associated tools to move it around. You could do it in sections, too, provided you feather the end portions of the section you last completed. Stone tinting is tricky. You don't have a lot of choice because of the original color of your stonework. A dark tint solution will enhance the natural color while also affecting the grout or filler material in between, so that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

These days you could think of anything and it can be done. Stone's been on the back burner for years now as concrete tech and application has advanced. It's stronger, flexible under pressure to resist cracking, and it can be designed any way you would want. What I like about pavers or stone is if they do break or crack, you can chisel them out and replace them with a similar looking stone.

Doing a really good concrete patch and aging it to blend in takes skill and hours of resurfacing. A simpler method is to have it patched and resurfaced using a slurry. These slurries use resin compounds to give flexibility where fiberglass in the original pour may have failed. It's cool stuff but as you said, messy for a first timer.

It'd be easier to pay a company 15-20K to redo your driveway depending on its length, but the experience of doing it yourself makes it worthwhile. There are things I'd never do; pipes, electrics, gas, sprinklers, etc.
 
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I want this car to last forever.

But it's not a Toyota :p (Congrats on the car though. You finally got it!)

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I'm not a huge fan of the GT3. I like the GT2s way more. Granted their sole mission is to kill you. Have you convinced Gold to get a Macan Turbo yet?
 
@quagmire Congrats on the new ride-it looks and sounds great!

@Zenithal

As said, there's a lot that goes into acoustics but one of the things you'll find consistently on domestic V8s with true dual exhaust is that they tend to have a "burble" at idle. You can mostly pin this on the the typical uneven firing order.

As said, though, things like exhaust valve configuration, valve timing, valve duration, and valve lift all go into it. And, as @D.T. said, get too aggressive on your camshaft(increase the duration and/or lift too much) and you'll find that you have an engine that won't idle at "normal" speeds comfortably. A typical American V8 idle is in the 600-700 rpm ballpark, and more aggressive cams just aren't happy running that slow-you'll tend to get more of a "loping" sound as the engine hunts for a steady idle.
 
There are a ton of factors in a vehicle audio dynamics: general design (OHV vs. DOHC), crank, cylinder bank angles, displacement, stroke, cams, firing order, exhaust, etc. More to your point, families tend to have some likeness, i.e., Chevy small blocks, so if there's an appeal of some brand, it's due to design consistency (like all the LTx/LSx derived motors).

Funny enough, one of the things I always liked better on late[r] model Mustangs (the 32v DOHC motors) vs. my LXx motored cars (Vettes) was the exhaust - the latter has a nice classic musclecar sound, but the Ford 5 liter has that plus this extra exotic burble that I just love.

It's interesting how different tuning states affect the sound too - you can put in a big cam in a LT4 and you _will_ hear it, the clucky/lopey sound, it's fun (depending on the overlap/duration, I over-cammed a Corvette, was +not+ fun). Swap out cams to fairly stout specs in a 5.0L and they sound about the same as stock due to the massive heads/valves (and remember, the 5L has 4 cams!)

As said, there's a lot that goes into acoustics but one of the things you'll find consistently on domestic V8s with true dual exhaust is that they tend to have a "burble" at idle. You can mostly pin this on the the typical uneven firing order.

As said, though, things like exhaust valve configuration, valve timing, valve duration, and valve lift all go into it. And, as @D.T. said, get too aggressive on your camshaft(increase the duration and/or lift too much) and you'll find that you have an engine that won't idle at "normal" speeds comfortably. A typical American V8 idle is in the 600-700 rpm ballpark, and more aggressive cams just aren't happy running that slow-you'll tend to get more of a "loping" sound as the engine hunts for a steady idle.

I was wondering what you were talking about until I realized I hadn't seen DT's post earlier today. :oops: My bad!

So essentially what you two are saying is that an aggressive cam setup is all but one part of a complex setup that causes that loping sound that's so awesome, right? From firing order, which I know can affect exhaust sound, to exhaust setup (which I guess means mainly the heads and the lengths as well as the path taken throughout the underside?) and other minute changes? There's been examples in the past of Chevy updating an engine with a bit more displacement and it sounds completely different. I've always liked the loping sound, and they're a little more prominent on old Chevy trucks from the 80s and 90s.

I've never really liked 'Vette exhausts other than the C7. I like the styling, too. I really love the exhaust on the GT350/R. Ford really did a great job making it sound like an exotic, from engine to exhaust. It's a mix of high pitch and low burble. Reminiscent of old European high end sports cars. Sadly, they're really pricey because dealers love to over price. Base GT350 has been selling for 20-30 over MSRP. If the kids were older and I could possibly build onto the garage, I'd love to get a C-whatever comes along next or pick up the next iteration of a GT. Garage space is what's needed. Unlike the east coast, garages seem to be an afterthought here in the west coast. It's almost as if they're an afterthought. I suppose this makes me a hoarder of cars. I hate selling cars unless I hate them.

Going back to domestics, any news on this mystery C8 mid-engine Corvette?
 
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So essentially what you two are saying is that an aggressive cam setup is all but one part of a complex setup that causes that loping sound that's so awesome, right?

Yes. Though, for the record, I wouldn't classify any of the cams used in modern muscle/performance as aggressive.

I'd call this "pretty stout" (but still not radical):

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I really love the exhaust on the GT350/R. Ford really did a great job making it sound like an exotic, from engine to exhaust. It's a mix of high pitch and low burble. Reminiscent of old European high end sports cars. Sadly, they're really pricey because dealers love to over price. Base GT350 has been selling for 20-30 over MSRP.

You can definitely score a non-R GT350 for MSRP or even a few hundred under. When they went into an additional year of production (MY17), things started balancing out, and the '17s "base" model is now equivalent to a '16 + Track Pack, for ~$54K, and if you want electronics and some other nice convenience items, that's $3K, so you're right around $57K.

The screaming 8200RPM 5.2 motor is amazing, both in performance and sound. I mean, 5.2L producing 526HP? And it's a tune and headers away from 600.

RPM range is _so_ fun, especially with lower gearing like 3:73s, if I follow an NA build, I'll wind up with somewhere in the 7500-7600 RPM :cool:
 
That my friend is the picture of 40% depreciation :p

I love the exterior color. Looks good.

For how long I plan to own the Camaro, I don't care about resale value. :)

Thanks! I like the nightfall gray paint. After a streak of black cars in the family, it is actually nice to have another color.

But it's not a Toyota :p (Congrats on the car though. You finally got it!)

It is a Chevy Small Block V8 though and those do last forever.... :p


@quagmire Congrats on the new ride-it looks and sounds great!

Thanks guys!
 
You can definitely score a non-R GT350 for MSRP or even a few hundred under. When they went into an additional year of production (MY17), things started balancing out, and the '17s "base" model is now equivalent to a '16 + Track Pack, for ~$54K, and if you want electronics and some other nice convenience items, that's $3K, so you're right around $57K.
Highly dependent on region and how many cars a dealer can score. There's a few dealers selling lightly driven, under 7K miles, for around $58-60,000. Most dealers are asking for way above MSRP. A PP has one for 55K, most packages including track pack, the car has been hit though.

I suppose if you do a factory order, you can get it for around MSRP before the dealer upsells you maintenance and other goodies. The problem is that most guys (and I suppose a gal or two) don't want to wait and will get the car that's closest to what they want.

The increased pricing does affect the 2nd hand market. There was a discussion on a Merc forum I post on where some yokel was trying to offload his GT350R in some color combination he thought was 1 of 4 in for 2016, for a huge sum of money. It was over $180,000 IIRC.
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I actually found him one the other day

http://www.primeporsche.com/invento...2FLB96117/Used-2015-Porsche-Macan-Westwood-MA

Not sure why it's priced so low though...
Luxury SUV depreciation, high mileage for its year, nearly base Macan Turbo, less aesthetic wheels etc. Unlike the Cayenne and the Macan, they're not a dime a dozen and they're made in greater numbers affecting their depreciation rate. 911 GTS suffers from serious depreciation. 911s with few options depreciate hard and get "stuck" in price limbo and later on appreciate. 911s with options will remain at a higher "stuck" price.

996s were awful and depreciated quickly, but people are realizing how good these cars are now and they're slowly appreciating, even base cars. Boxsters of that era will continue to depreciate, though.

I recall recommending he get the Macan a while back, but as it stands, a loaded F Pace makes more sense, especially if he plans on leasing which would make sense with any small luxury SUV. Though he could get that new Land Rover Volero (I think it was...), except I don't recall him liking it.

Being very frank here, regardless of how much or how little financial sense it makes, if I were living on the East Coast, where you're at, I'd lease and not finance simply because of how snow and salt wreck havoc on cars. Let that be someone else's problem.

With financing, the worst I have to worry about is the sun baking our cars into nothing. While the Volero may look like the cripple bastard child of the Range Rover on the outside, it's rather nice on the inside and those new controls look very pleasing to use, even if they're a little too futuristic. After a long day of writing 'scripts, I can see Gold relaxing in his Volero, some nice music playing and gently tapping a screen to get things done. No need to fiddle with anything.
 
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Again on the exhaust sound, I'd still give a lot of the V8 "burble" to the uneven firing order. Even on a overly muffled car like my Lincoln, it still makes a beautiful V8 sound even at idle albeit you can really only hear it when you're right behind the car.

My comment on the "loping" sound was more in line with what D.T. said on putting too aggressive of a cam in an engine. Every thing in engine design is a compromise, and your typical aggresive cams will idle very poorly. In addition, a more aggressive camshaft profile will typically develop more power overall, but it will move the power band up to higher RPMs. On a racetrack where you're at WOT most of the time, this isn't an issue. On the streets where you probably can't legally sustain WOT, it's not ideal. This is one of the things that VVT does-it allows you to use more aggressive cam profiles at higher RPMs.

As I'm planning the engine build for my MGA, I've been looking at camshafts. There are two popular street performance cams for the B series engines. They are made by APT, and are models VP-11 and VP-12. The folks I've talked to who have put a VP-12 cam in regretted the choice-it ups the redline to 7.5K, but also shifts the power curve up to where the engine doesn't really start going until 2900 or so. It also wants to idle at 1200-1300 rpms. The VP-11 keeps the redline more or less stock, but starts making power at ~1900rpms(about the same as a standard cam). It can comfortably idle at ~900-1000rpms(as opposed to 800-900 for stock), but that's manageable. The general rule is that folks love the VP-11 and really dislike the VP-12 for driving on the street.
 
I'll take that challenge.

Alright, I've done it for a couple of miles in the MG. The engine will quite literally give all it has-to the point where resting against the pedal stop or being a half inch above it actually makes no difference on a stock engine(you're at the limit of how much air the engine can pump in and out). The only way to get it beyond there is to port and polish the head and then move to a more aggressive cam to get a bit more duration. BTW, with the top up and windows rolled up, the car is going 100-105(GPS verified) depending on just how well I have the tuning dialed in. That put the engine between 5300 and 5600rpms, which straddles the "yellow line"(5500). Top down and with a half tonneau or a fastened down full tonneau over the top frame, WOT will get about 95 with the visors down, or 92 if the visors are flipped up(over the windscreen). Leave the top boot off and you'll lose another MPH or two. The full tonneau folded down and secured properly actually is a bit better due to the way it deals with the shoulder strap. BTW, it never fails to amaze me little things like this can make that much of a difference, but when you're on the edge of what the engine can do, every little bit makes a difference.

I've hit WOT many times in every car I drive regularly, but it's generally for situations like getting on the interstate and again not sustained.
 
Nice. I take it the nearly all glass building in the top left is also a house? Is the boat right in front of yours or did it come with the rental?

Sorry, missed this, rental separate from the house, ours friends have roughly the same, but trailering that distance is a _drag_ (pun, kind of intended ...) so we just scored one locally. All houses on a side channel, we just about stayed permanently :D Had daily manatee visits :)

After a streak of black cars in the family, it is actually nice to have another color.

Yeah, you went really out there with the color choice, from black to dark gray with a black interior ... :D

(FTR, I love the color :cool: I've had/have multiple cars in that same sort of metallic dark gray)

My comment on the "loping" sound was more in line with what D.T. said on putting too aggressive of a cam in an engine. Every thing in engine design is a compromise, and your typical aggresive cams will idle very poorly. In addition, a more aggressive camshaft profile will typically develop more power overall, but it will move the power band up to higher RPMs.

Yep, yep and yep! I actually downgraded a cam in a car once, from factory to a beastly cam to a milder cam, it only gave up like 30HP on the top end, but resulted in way better street manners (also went from catless to HFC on the headers).
 
Sorry not sure how I missed this. You bought an MGA?! (The one you had pics of?)

It's been an ongoing project :)

I have the title but haven't had my guy start on anything yet. He sold me the title for $1, but he needs some money to get started.

Once I hand over some money, too, I am going to go through the boxes of stuff and pull out the engine parts. Just in some casual digging, I found one carburetor, the flywheel, and the dynamo. I need to find the other carb(it should be there) and send them off for rebuild. I'm not ready for this, but I need the flywheel to make the 1800 engine mate to the MGA gearbox(I also need the engine back plate and starter). I'll probably go ahead and prep it, though, by having the machine shop turn it down to ~12lbs or so(from 16) and install a new ring gear. I'll rebuild the dynamo myself. I'll probably go ahead and grab the head, but I don't know if I want to deal with the block-it's missing enough parts that it will likely never be a viable engine again. I'm tempted to get my 300lbs of scrap cast iron out of it.

In any case, we're going-slowly. Old English White and a red interior. This will be down the road a bit, but I have 5 wire wheels an need to decide if I'm going to paint them(OEM) or chrome them. I also need to make the white wall/no white wall car. I'd normally say no to whitewalls on a sports car, but I've seen a few Old English White MGAs with them and I have to admit it looks sharp.
 
Holy Sheetz! More photos and information please :D

There's a couple more pics in the current "Picture of your Car" thread.

I drove it quite a lot the first week but it's not really a suitable car for driving a lot. I've got a nice list of things I want to do to it. The interior can use some help and I'm hoping there are ways to make it a better driving experience without ruining the low low look.

It's got a built 351W stroker and Tremec 5 speed with a 3.50 rear. The engine was built by a race car builder in NC and clearly was assembled with the goal of riding the edge between performance and street manners. The suspension has all been replaced in an attempt to do the drop while keeping the car drivable and they've mostly succeeded. It does rub the front tires at full lock, but I think I can mitigate that. One of the first things I want, though, is an electric power steering mod.

A dyno day is on my list of to-dos and I foresee occasional trips to the drag strip also.

Here's a short video of startup and idle.

The only other thing I've done of note so far is get rid of the Mopar pistol grip shifter handle in favor of a standard Hurst flat stick. Making this car "mine" is going to be the work of years.

IMG_4076.jpg
 
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Can't say I'm a fan of the black wheels, but the color is gorgeous.
I always did like the notchback 'stands more than the fastbacks.

I've had a fastback 69 Mustang in my past and truth be told that's what I was looking for before I bought this one. I think this works - the combo of notchback and lowered with modern wheel/tire geometry makes it a fairly unique car. One nice thing about the coupe is visibility. So so much better than the fastback.
 
Looks like General Motors is back up to their old shenanigans of massive incentives to sell cars

http://www.carsdirect.com/deals-articles/chevy-offering-up-to-8-000-off-select-corvettes

Starting April 1, GM is offering a $5,000 bonus on Corvettes equipped with carbon-ceramic brakes identified under GM option code J57. Made by Italian manufacturer Brembo, the brakes feature 15.5" rotors up front and 15.3" in back and are designed to handle extreme temperatures.

On a 2017 Corvette Z06 coupe with 6.2-liter supercharged V8 rated at 650 hp, the option normally adds $7,495 for a configured MSRP of $87,940 with the 7-speed manual or $90,965 with the 8-speed automatic (prices include a $995 destination charge).

Current Corvette owners and lessees are also eligible for a $2,000 loyalty bonus, an offer we've seen for quite a while. You don't need to trade-in your current car, and the discount can be transferred among members of the same household.

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/artic...-on-truck-turf

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