That too. You can get very good deals on them and I also suspect FCA is fleet dumping.
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That too. You can get very good deals on them and I also suspect FCA is fleet dumping.
I feel like a lot of companies are guilty of that recently. Nissan and Hyundai-Kia especially.
There is no way Nissan is actually selling that many Rogues to consumers
You should have gotten a manual transmission convertible.I do like that a manual transmission was an option.
I have to say the new Camaro wins over the new Mustang although they are pretty similar. Keep in mind while growing up in the U.S. Chevy vs Ford days of the 60's I was an absolute Chevy guy.
I wonder how a ZL1 value holds up against an average Camaro?
A bit too ridgey
The lines of both cars show off better as a hard top, which is pretty typical, but the Camaro convertible wins easily.
The Mustang nose appearance is a nose a bit too long, drooping a bit too much.
When I think of the definitive Mustang...
1968 390 V8 Ford Mustang GT fastbacks (325 hp)
I was out and about today and saw a Camaro parked at a restaurant, I think the regular Camaro's hood and grill looks better than the LZ1. In styling it will give the Challenger and Charger a run for their money. I may have been imagining some of the ridgeyness I commented in on the above post.
A hood doesn't stop flare if you have a point light source coming directly into the lens.
I've been using a decent number of pre-WWII uncoated lenses recently, and with some of them you can't avoid flare in decently high contrast scenes. The lens on my Speed Graphic is coated(137mm f/4.5 Wollenstack Raptar), but shows a lot what I'm told is called "luminosity" where highlights bleed around corners. I'm told this was actually a somewhat desirable property for lenses intended for B&W work from this era.
That's a given, though. They make or made little umbrellas for lenses at one point. I've seen people with long billed hats, too.
Yes, that's correct. It was also favored during the war. The lens added a bit of dramatique to en plaine air photography. It was widely believed that photos could convey more emotion that way than they usually did. It's still true in some applications. I'm usually more drawn to photos of a seascape with a small amount of lens flare than one without, because it feels like I'm there, minus the sand and seagulls divebombing into you, of course.
If they're your lenses, take good care of them. Some of that old stuff is better than what you could get in the 70s-90s.
Indeed the lenses are mine. I also have a couple of both pre and postwar Rolleiflexes with an assortment of Xenars(Schneider) and Tessars(Zeiss) that show this to varying degrees.
BTW, to keep it relevant to the car thread, here's a photo of the MG taken with the Raptar I mentioned earlier
I was given a couple of lenses last week, and among them is a 127mm Ektar in a completely dead Graphex shutter. I need to get it on a Speed board as the dead shutter is of no concern on that camera. The lens does have a bit of fungus, but it's at the edge so shouldn't be a concern when stopped down a bit.
I haven't had this camera out yet, but I'm also anxious to see what the lens look like on it.
Old American(and even German lenses) to some extent MAY lack the clinical sharpness of many modern Japanese and German optics, but they have a certain other charm about them. Of course, that's not to downplay American optics at all, as even most of the old Ektars, Raptars, and the like that came fitted to a lot Graflex cameras are excellent. Their biggest downfall is that the image circle just barely covers 4x5. Wide open at infinity, you might get 1mm or so of shift and maybe 1º of tilt(one or the other, not both). Of course, stopping down and focusing closer than infinity both increase the image circle. The above was taken at f/16 I think, and did have a couple of millimeters of vertical shift.
What car we use,is usually depending on what we use it for.
Luckily I got more than one.
For economic driving,and crawling through snowy dirt roads to work every morning,a Dacia sanders stepway works fine,for vintage car rallies,car shows and similar,my 1943 Willys MB is perfect,for wrecking the egos of BMW and Audi driving kids at stoplights,a supercharged 1969 Chevy sting ray with a Keith black 494,nitro injectors and wheelie bars works just fine.
Nothing beats raw power.....
Luckily I got more than one.
For economic driving,and crawling through snowy dirt roads to work every morning,a Dacia sanders stepway works fine,for vintage car rallies,car shows and similar,my 1943 Willys MB is perfect,for wrecking the egos of BMW and Audi driving kids at stoplights,a supercharged 1969 Chevy sting ray with a Keith black 494,nitro injectors and wheelie bars works just fine.
Nothing beats raw power.....
The lines of both the Charger and the Challenger are the cleanest, most reminiscint of the 60s-70s muscle cars. A hard choice, but I'd probably pick the Challenger.
IMO the 4 door Charger is blasphemy. Badge whoring at its worst.
I feel like a lot of companies are guilty of that recently. Nissan and Hyundai-Kia especially.
There is no way Nissan is actually selling that many Rogues to consumers
Correct, nissan and hyundia are dumping into rental car fleets. Honda and Toyota not.
It makes sense, doesn't it? You can either take care of those cars and keep them in pristine or drive the crap out of them. Either way, their value will plummet like a rock. For the amount of Rogues Nissan sells, I'm thankful I've yet to see one while driving. Nissan, Hyundai and Kia are generous with who they sell a car to, and Nissan has always been known to sell cars to just about anyone with a pulse. It doesn't even have to be human. That's how desperate they are.
Anyway, with the new 4 pot F Type, I suspect the F Type's rareness will go away. It was never about price when it came to the V6 or the V8. It was the fact that everyone here recalls just how awful Jaguar was in the past. They're better now, but they still have their issues and materials quality just isn't up to scratch with the Helmuts or Matthias' of this world. Personally, I hope Jaguar keeps improving year in and year out. They desperately need to get ahead ASAP or risk being ignored by the masses. There was this article which was a total farce.
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/03/jaguar-doesnt-want-get-popular/
That's because your vehicles have always been seen as "****" in the eyes of the public, and you're doing a damn good job not to shed that fact. Jaguar think they're exclusive when their cars are cheaper than the competition. They believe they're exclusive because their vehicles have an air of sophistication about them. I hadn't laughed as hard as I did when I read that article last month. Jags are blown away by the competition and aren't remotely exclusive like a Rolls or Bentley.
Anyway, with the new 4 pot F Type, I suspect the F Type's rareness will go away. It was never about price when it came to the V6 or the V8. It was the fact that everyone here recalls just how awful Jaguar was in the past. They're better now, but they still have their issues and materials quality just isn't up to scratch with the Helmuts or Matthias' of this world. Personally, I hope Jaguar keeps improving year in and year out. They desperately need to get ahead ASAP or risk being ignored by the masses. There was this article which was a total farce.
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/03/jaguar-doesnt-want-get-popular/
That's because your vehicles have always been seen as "****" in the eyes of the public, and you're doing a damn good job not to shed that fact. Jaguar think they're exclusive when their cars are cheaper than the competition. They believe they're exclusive because their vehicles have an air of sophistication about them. I hadn't laughed as hard as I did when I read that article last month. Jags are blown away by the competition and aren't remotely exclusive like a Rolls or Bentley.
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I drove the hell out of the GT last night, holy smokes, it felt fantastic, I'm still in awe at how much difference a tune made and/or how "under-tuned" it was from the factory. I also noticed the connections on the can on my oil separator setup were very loose - that's a closed PCV system that I believe can cause metering/tune issues if air gets into the loop.
Also making a local deal on a Foose rear wing, this model is a perfect balance of more impact vs. the little OEM part (which my GT/PP doesn't have anyway), and some of the "too much" options, many of which don't work well on a convertible.
Also making a local deal on a Foose rear wing, this model is a perfect balance of more impact vs. the little OEM part (which my GT/PP doesn't have anyway), and some of the "too much" options, many of which don't work well on a convertible.
I've spent a couple of years getting free oil changes as part of a warranty. Now I have to pay and the price seems to run $40-60, the high end dictated by synthetic oil. So I'm going to revert to old habits and do my own oil changes. I ordered a small jack, simply because my Fiat 500 is so low to the ground, there is no other way to get under there to remove a panel held on by 6 bolts to get at the drain. This video was helpful. In my experience the Fiat has some unique requirements for oil changes. :
A question about petroleum vs synthetic oil- is synthetic oil vastly superior? I've always resisted because of the higher price.
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What is badge whoring? Are you saying they are using the name for an inappropriate chassis?
Not a bad looking 4 door.
A question about petroleum vs synthetic oil- is synthetic oil vastly superior? I've always resisted because of the higher price.
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What is badge whoring? Are you saying they are using the name for an inappropriate chassis?
Not a bad looking 4 door.
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I use synthetic only on modern engines. On the 153K engine in my Lincoln, you can pull the valve covers and they're clean enough to eat off of-not a trace of varnish or any other issues that seem to happen with dino oil. I run Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles with a Motorcraft filter(rebadge Purolatur Pure-One).
With that said, most modern dino oils are pretty darn good but can sludge.
Synthetics do show their advantage in a few areas, though. One of those is that they tend to hold their viscosity better at temperature extremes. The upper end isn't so much of a concern(although modern engines often tend to balance somewhere around the highest temperature they can get away with) but the lower end can really help cold cranking at low temperatures. I can tell you that my Lincoln cranks almost as easily below 0ºF(which admittedly is generally only a couple of days a year in Kentucky) as it does at 50º.
One area where synthetics CAN be at a disadvantage is if your car tends to sit for extended periods of time, as the residual oil film that you rely on to protect the bearings and cam lobes during the first few seconds of start up while you wait for oil pressure to build will run off faster with a synthetic than with a conventional oil. If you drive your car at least a couple of times a week, this isn't an issue. If, however, your car might regularly sit for a couple of weeks at a time then conventional oil is probably a better choice.
I try to drive my MG at least once a week, but for a variety of reasons I run a high quality conventional oil. Most of the time(i.e. when it's not on clearance at Autozone for $1/qt as it was recently until I cleaned out all the stores in the area) I actually spend more for it than I do for Mobil 1. The oil I use is Valvoline VR-1 20W-50, which I like because it contains plenty of the ZDDP that old engines with flat tappets need. It's usually somewhere around $6-7 a quart-I can get a half case for $30 at Rural King, but the $6-7 price is usually a single quart price at most auto parts stores. A 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 in any weight is generally $28 or so at Wal-Mart, but you might get it for $23 or $24 if you catch it on sale.
I use synthetic. The only car I'd bother with changing oil is the Lexus, but the other cars go to the dealer because I don't have the equipment or patience with the cluster**** setup to drain the oil and refill it and change the filter. My dealer does them for cheap simply because I keep buying our cars from them. I can sit inside the customer center and have cake and an espresso or whatever while I wait. It would be interesting to see how less DIY things become in a decade. Changing oil on that Fiat of yours should be dead simple, Hunt. Though I do ask you to put in place some jack blocks in addition to your jack.
I like to time my oil changes so that new oil goes in at the start of summer.
I like to time my oil changes so that new oil goes in at the start of summer.
I think it also has to with it's unchanged look.
When the three(5th Camaro,S197 Mustang, Challenger) were released all three were sporting a clear retro look. Since then both the Camaro and the Mustang were modernized in looks a lot, some of those buying for the retro looks may have moved to the Challenger.
Also at the end of the day straight up performance isn't everything. Once past a certain power threshold a lot of people think "will i ever use all the extra cornering/quarter mile performance".
That's why there is also a 4 cylinder f-type. A lot of people really like the look of the car but only having 6 & 8 cylinder hurts them in markets with other tax structures. In the US it might be pointless but i read that in the in the netherlands the difference between 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder amounts to more than 25.000euros with tax factored in.
Here in Austria the price starts at 63.800 for the 4 cylinder and at 80.000 for the 6cylinder
That's more than 25% higher price for 40 horsepower more, 11km/H more top speed and being 0.4 seconds faster 0-100 with a worse fuel economy.
Though i have to say it's still a hard sell. The Porsche Cayman starts at 60.200 euro and the S version (which is faster than the 120.000 euro, 400 hp, f-type) starts at 77.500
Isn't that the whole of Europe, though? I'm sure the 4 pot will sound good, too, but it makes no sense to bring it to the US. Even if it comes in at 50K starting, it'll be competing with the Cayman (And I suppose the Boxster), I can't really imagine why anyone would forgo the Porsche and go with the Jag, apart from the warranty Jaguar offers at the moment, unless it's changed since last summer. I think the F Type's a fantastic car, but at that price point, I'd rather go with the Cayman. I'd imagine with some options you could see mid-60s, but it'd make more sense to get a basic Cayman S, especially if driving capability is your main concern and not fancy shmancy doodads and gizmos.
In the end, it's up to the buyer. I personally like Porsche more than Jaguar, especially if purchasing. But I like the styling of the F Type more than the Porsche motorcars in that price range. At the same time, the Porsche cars are without a doubt some of the most reliable vehicles in the world. They'll have far better resale value and if you chose to lease them, they offer better residuals than the Jags. Both vehicles have a nice interior but the Porsche cars are a bit roomier than the Jaguar.
Ideally, what you have to do is get both.
In the end, it's up to the buyer. I personally like Porsche more than Jaguar, especially if purchasing. But I like the styling of the F Type more than the Porsche motorcars in that price range. At the same time, the Porsche cars are without a doubt some of the most reliable vehicles in the world. They'll have far better resale value and if you chose to lease them, they offer better residuals than the Jags. Both vehicles have a nice interior but the Porsche cars are a bit roomier than the Jaguar.
Ideally, what you have to do is get both.
What a glorious palette of colors your family chooses from.
The color of choice used to be silver before I got my Saturn then it went black.... Now I wonder if it will go gray now that I changed it up again....