The Car Thread ... !

[JoeG4]

The 2011-2013 V6 Grand Cherokees have a Mercedes transmission that is tried and true. The 2014 models have a ZF transmission, who is generally well regarded for making some of the best transmissions in the world (with a few exceptions). The Cherokee (not GC) has a 9-speed ZF shared with other new Fiat vehicles, is one of those exceptions.

The Wranglers are also using that Mercedes transmission! I was pleased when I was shopping for my 2015 and realized that. Our 300 has the ZF 8 speed, which has been great too. In some ways, I think the 5 speed is easier to coax into the gear you want though. I'm surprised how few people consider a 300/charger when they want a large, inexpensive RWD car. They're terrific.

 

[A.Goldberg]

What is everyone's thoughts on the new Camaro? I like it. I know people are deriding it for it's evolutionary redesign, but the Mustang is evolutionary, Porsche's are evolutionary, BMW's, etc which everyone seems to love...... Switching over to the Alpha platform( ATS, CTS) will make it quite a handler too along with it losing 200 lb.

It looks like a good aesthetic improvement from the old model. I prefer when vehicles find a look and stick with it. Drastic aesthetic redesigns seem to devalue older models/decrease residual value. The interior is a nice improvement over the original. I've never been a fan of this segment, but I too would probably chose the Mustang. Chevy's look too toyish and dodge's are too aggressive (but cheap) looking, but I think the ford has a good, balanced look. That said, I've only personally driven the Camero.

 

[puma1552]

the new camaro looks better than the old one, but still looks too similar to the outgoing one, its hard to see that thats actually a completely new platform and not a mid cycle refresh. i see in typical gm fashion they didnt listen to their customers and built another car with garbage visibility, much like how the fourth gen camaros still had the terrible catalytic converter hump in the passenger footwell that the third gen endured for 11 years, much like how they didnt listen to any input from 3rd or 4th gen owners when building the 5th gen.

the interior is better, looks like 15 years later gm is finally getting the hint that gaudy oversized bulbous plastic knobs that look cheap as hell from the mid 90s are out - at least here and on the corvette

all in all, glad they are still building them, but still last place of the three muscle cars in my book.

 

[MatthewLTL]

since the topic of A/C came up.... I gotta say, mine has never worked sure here in MN the hottest its ever been in Rochester is 113F, on average it never gets above 80 so i just drive with the windows down which saves the MPGs anyway... Even in the Impala which has a working A/C we rarely ever use it.

 

[A.Goldberg]

since the topic of A/C came up.... I gotta say, mine has never worked sure here in MN the hottest its ever been in Rochester is 113F, on average it never gets above 80 so i just drive with the windows down which saves the MPGs anyway... Even in the Impala which has a working A/C we rarely ever use it.

How are your cars these days? Any improvements in the list of issues?

 

[MatthewLTL]

How are your cars these days? Any improvements in the list of issues?

nope no improvements.... but i do plan to do self-operations on it next month i have pinpointed the problem with the impala and thats about it. I also got a pair of tyres to put on the front of my Daewoo.... just need to figure out the best way to do that if i should bring in the whole car or take a wheel in 1x1 to have the 2 tyres put on

 

[A.Goldberg]

nope no improvements.... but i do plan to do self-operations on it next month i have pinpointed the problem with the impala and thats about it. I also got a pair of tyres to put on the front of my Daewoo.... just need to figure out the best way to do that if i should bring in the whole car or take a wheel in 1x1 to have the 2 tyres put on

Is the Daewoo not drivable at this point?

 

[MatthewLTL]

Is the Daewoo not drivable at this point?

It's still driveable... but probably not worth doing as the more I drive it the worse it becomes.... the thing now only gets 6MPG thats down from 15MPG this time last year. It kicks out alot of unburned fuel outta the ass-pipe and although it doesnt ever get above normal tempature the entire engine bay gets really hot and the fans kick on more it acts like its overheating without physically doing so. I will gas it up next month and just park it until i can get the CPS replaced from what I have read that can do ALOT with how bad it runs and the horrid MPGs it gets

 

[bunnspecial]

It's still driveable... but probably not worth doing as the more I drive it the worse it becomes.... the thing now only gets 6MPG thats down from 15MPG this time last year. It kicks out alot of unburned fuel outta the ass-pipe and although it doesnt ever get above normal tempature the entire engine bay gets really hot and the fans kick on more it acts like its overheating without physically doing so. I will gas it up next month and just park it until i can get the CPS replaced from what I have read that can do ALOT with how bad it runs and the horrid MPGs it gets

Something is definitely wrong there. My car is roughly the same age as yours, weighs two tons, has over twice the engine displacement in a V8, and can still keep 20mpg around town and 26 or so on the interstate.

Spitting fuel out the tail pipe is a great way to kill your cat-and very quickly at that. I think parking the car until you get it fixed is a good idea-the more you say, the more I'm convinced that there is a very serious problem with the car.

 

[A.Goldberg]

It's still driveable... but probably not worth doing as the more I drive it the worse it becomes.... the thing now only gets 6MPG thats down from 15MPG this time last year. It kicks out alot of unburned fuel outta the ass-pipe and although it doesnt ever get above normal tempature the entire engine bay gets really hot and the fans kick on more it acts like its overheating without physically doing so. I will gas it up next month and just park it until i can get the CPS replaced from what I have read that can do ALOT with how bad it runs and the horrid MPGs it gets

I obviously agree with Bunn there, there's something really not right going on there. Do you have a temperature gauge? My old 4.7L V8 Grand Cherokee with full time 4wd got at worst 11mpg in city driving (bumper to bumper, Boston traffic). My AWD 6-cyl BMW gets at worst 16/17mpg, again that's in bumper to bumper, slow, rush hour traffic. 15mpg to start off with is not right for a car rated at 26/36 city/highway mpg.

If your engine is burning rich (too much fuel to air ratio), then Bunn is right, you're killing your catalytic converter(s)- not something you want to have to replace. You should be getting a OBD code for that, or if I remember your O2 sensors are faulty, which could be screwing up the calculations.

If you have an aluminum engine you want to be especially careful if you're actually overheating. Aluminum engines warp very quickly when overheated and a warped engine is not really repairable/worth replacing.

I'm surprised your car is evening running with a bad cps (crankshaft position sensor) to be honest. Usually when those fail your car will just stop running.

What about that "dragging" issue.

 

[MatthewLTL]

I obviously agree with Bunn there, there's something really not right going on there. Do you have a temperature gauge? My old 4.7L V8 Grand Cherokee with full time 4wd got at worst 11mpg in city driving (bumper to bumper, Boston traffic). My AWD 6-cyl BMW gets at worst 16/17mpg, again that's in bumper to bumper, slow, rush hour traffic. 15mpg to start off with is not right for a car rated at 26/36 city/highway mpg.

If your engine is burning rich (too much fuel to air ratio), then Bunn is right, you're killing your catalytic converter(s)- not something you want to have to replace. You should be getting a OBD code for that, or if I remember your O2 sensors are faulty, which could be screwing up the calculations.

If you have an aluminum engine you want to be especially careful if you're actually overheating. Aluminum engines warp very quickly when overheated and a warped engine is not really repairable/worth replacing.

I'm surprised your car is evening running with a bad cps (crankshaft position sensor) to be honest. Usually when those fail your car will just stop running.

What about that "dragging" issue.

the CPS i am referring to is the camshaft position sensor and according to one of the 6 codes its puking out.... a bad O2 Sensor is one of them but then again all 5 sensors throwing codes could all be contributing to the bad MPGs.... as far as the Cat goes..... not really worried about that i eventually wanna get rid of it completely from what ive been told ill gain about 10HP by taking it out and replacing it with a straight pipe. the temp guage never goes above the halfway mark (although it was overheating last year because of a bad replaced thermostat) the drag is something that only happens in no winter months something to do with the brakes im sure it was taken into the shop after all the brake work pretty much weekly for 2 months in 2013 because of this drag still never fixed. only 2 ways to help it one is to unplg the Idle sensor which with it running at higher RPMs it drives better as far as the drag OR i can up/downshift the automatic tranny. neither one fixes it or helps much but its better than nothing

 

[A.Goldberg]

the CPS i am referring to is the camshaft position sensor and according to one of the 6 codes its puking out.... a bad O2 Sensor is one of them but then again all 5 sensors throwing codes could all be contributing to the bad MPGs.... as far as the Cat goes..... not really worried about that i eventually wanna get rid of it completely from what ive been told ill gain about 10HP by taking it out and replacing it with a straight pipe. the temp guage never goes above the halfway mark (although it was overheating last year because of a bad replaced thermostat) the drag is something that only happens in no winter months something to do with the brakes im sure it was taken into the shop after all the brake work pretty much weekly for 2 months in 2013 because of this drag still never fixed. only 2 ways to help it one is to unplg the Idle sensor which with it running at higher RPMs it drives better as far as the drag OR i can up/downshift the automatic tranny. neither one fixes it or helps much but its better than nothing

Ahh camshaft makes more sense. That explains possible air/gas mixing issues and perhaps even some of the other codes you're getting like the O2 sensor. The CPS sensor is probably the best place to start with your repairs.

I'd be careful removing your CC's
- Removing your cats can cause issues with the ECU sensors and feedback loop, causing additional issues with how the car runs.
- While MN has no emissions testing laws, you are bound by Federal law that mandates catalytic converters on vehicles built with one. If you're caught without a CC, they can fine you $2500, FYI (I suppose it doesn't matter if it works or not though). Cops do have the right to look under the car to see if its there (and a louder than normal sounding car may be hint that it's removed). Other jurisdictions have misdemeanor fines and additional fines. Chances are you'd never get caught, but it's a risk and you might have legal issues selling the car if not disclosed

If the "drag" is related to the brakes and you're overriding it by over-revving the engine, you're likely increasing the damage to the brakes or whatever else is wrong. Not to mention high idling isn't good for the car and may be somewhat to blame for your bad gas mileage, especially considering you have no tachometer.

I hope you're not taking this thing out on the road. I'd forget about the tires until you actually have in running in acceptable, safe condition.

 

[quagmire]

Not to mention you'll be an ass who sends fumes of fuel into cars behind you for a small gain in HP by removing the cat.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Ahh camshaft makes more sense. That explains possible air/gas mixing issues and perhaps even some of the other codes you're getting like the O2 sensor. The CPS sensor is probably the best place to start with your repairs.

I'd be careful removing your CC's
- Removing your cats can cause issues with the ECU sensors and feedback loop, causing additional issues with how the car runs.
- While MN has no emissions testing laws, you are bound by Federal law that mandates catalytic converters on vehicles built with one. If you're caught without a CC, they can fine you $2500, FYI (I suppose it doesn't matter if it works or not though). Cops do have the right to look under the car to see if its there (and a louder than normal sounding car may be hint that it's removed). Other jurisdictions have misdemeanor fines and additional fines. Chances are you'd never get caught, but it's a risk and you might have legal issues selling the car if not disclosed

If the "drag" is related to the brakes and you're overriding it by over-revving the engine, you're likely increasing the damage to the brakes or whatever else is wrong. Not to mention high idling isn't good for the car and may be somewhat to blame for your bad gas mileage, especially considering you have no tachometer.

I hope you're not taking this thing out on the road. I'd forget about the tires until you actually have in running in acceptable, safe condition.

Looking under my car for the cat.... LOL id like to see them try Daewoo's have low ground clearance. AFAIK the only O2 sensor i have is before the cat ive been under the car before all thats there is lines and the ass-pipe. Correct me if im wrong but the MUFFLER is what controls how loud the car is not the cat.

A person I once knew in the MA area said she removed her cat and gained 10HP on her lifted Jeep. however she stated that BECAUSE of the removed cat she has to do all the mechnical work herself because if she took it to a shop..... they would be required to report it for not having a cat.... not sure how true that is and if a mechanic would even care it had one or not..

SELL the car? haha NOPE! its rare as can be! mine is probably the ONLY 2001 Sedan in the entire state. (plenty of hatchbacks)

Running the engine higher doesn't Override the drag.... just slows the drag down and prevents me from NEEDING to up/downshift. I have taken it on the road with it idling high before (Goes about 15MPH without even pressing the gas). Its when i turn the car off and plug the IAC back in that it fits.... itll start and die or itll start idle low and die once put in gear and it makes the coolant boil running it at high RPMs

 

[bunnspecial]

I'd be careful removing your CC's
- Removing your cats can cause issues with the ECU sensors and feedback loop, causing additional issues with how the car runs.
- While MN has no emissions testing laws, you are bound by Federal law that mandates catalytic converters on vehicles built with one. If you're caught without a CC, they can fine you $2500, FYI (I suppose it doesn't matter if it works or not though). Cops do have the right to look under the car to see if its there (and a louder than normal sounding car may be hint that it's removed). Other jurisdictions have misdemeanor fines and additional fines. Chances are you'd never get caught, but it's a risk and you might have legal issues selling the car if not disclosed

I had a college friend(still talk to him occasionally) who had an '88 Supra with a turbo straight 6. He had a straight pipe and a "fart can" on it(it was that way when he bought it). My undergrad college was a small school that occupied about 3 city blocks in a small town. You could pretty much hear him driving anywhere on campus. I can remember sitting in student health service one day(waiting after getting an allergy shot). As I was sitting there, it sounded like someone had started a lawnmower right outside the building. I looked out the window to see his Supra pulling out of the parking lot.

This particular friend ended up with a "bonus semester"(extra semester after a 4 years due to not planning ahead with his schedule). As he was only taking two classes that met on MWF, he lived at home and commuted. He constantly complained about how bad his gas mileage was. I went to lunch with him one day, and as we were walking up to his car I rubbed my finger on the inside of the tailpipe-my fingertip was completely black and I commented to him on how rich his car was running. That, of course, was where his gas mileage was going(even though Supras weren't exactly designed with economy in mind). After finishing up, he finally sold the Supra and bought a Tacoma. The Tacoma worked out well for him, as it had the frame rot issue that plagued a whole lot of them-at least for a while Toyota was buying them back at 1.5x high book value, and that's what he got for it. That's another topic, though.

 

[MatthewLTL]

I had a college friend(still talk to him occasionally) who had an '88 Supra with a turbo straight 6. He had a straight pipe and a "fart can" on it(it was that way when he bought it). My undergrad college was a small school that occupied about 3 city blocks in a small town. You could pretty much hear him driving anywhere on campus. I can remember sitting in student health service one day(waiting after getting an allergy shot). As I was sitting there, it sounded like someone had started a lawnmower right outside the building. I looked out the window to see his Supra pulling out of the parking lot.

This particular friend ended up with a "bonus semester"(extra semester after a 4 years due to not planning ahead with his schedule). As he was only taking two classes that met on MWF, he lived at home and commuted. He constantly complained about how bad his gas mileage was. I went to lunch with him one day, and as we were walking up to his car I rubbed my finger on the inside of the tailpipe-my fingertip was completely black and I commented to him on how rich his car was running. That, of course, was where his gas mileage was going(even though Supras weren't exactly designed with economy in mind). After finishing up, he finally sold the Supra and bought a Tacoma. The Tacoma worked out well for him, as it had the frame rot issue that plagued a whole lot of them-at least for a while Toyota was buying them back at 1.5x high book value, and that's what he got for it. That's another topic, though.

a few cars around where i live have fart cans.... cant stand those not only are the fugly on every car they are put on they also break the sound barrier in the way harleys do when they drive by

 

[D.T.]

I had a college friend(still talk to him occasionally) who had an '88 Supra with a turbo straight 6.

I saw a super clean 3rd gen about a month ago. It definitely had the turbo wheels/wing, I mean, it was like it was a 4-5 year old car (vs. 27-ish). If I would've had time I might have turned around to check it out. A guy who used to work at a tuning shop down in Orlando had a 3rd gen with a 1JZ motor (transplanted from a Japanese spec Supra), it was pretty perky with a little extra boost.

 

[puma1552]

It's still driveable... but probably not worth doing as the more I drive it the worse it becomes.... the thing now only gets 6MPG thats down from 15MPG this time last year. It kicks out alot of unburned fuel outta the ass-pipe and although it doesnt ever get above normal tempature the entire engine bay gets really hot and the fans kick on more it acts like its overheating without physically doing so. I will gas it up next month and just park it until i can get the CPS replaced from what I have read that can do ALOT with how bad it runs and the horrid MPGs it gets

With all due respect, why not just junk both cars since they are basically mechanically totaled and get into something else? If funds are an issue you could probably get a $5k loan to get a decent 10 year old Civic or something.

 

[bunnspecial]

I saw a super clean 3rd gen about a month ago. It definitely had the turbo wheels/wing, I mean, it was like it was a 4-5 year old car (vs. 27-ish). If I would've had time I might have turned around to check it out. A guy who used to work at a tuning shop down in Orlando had a 3rd gen with a 1JZ motor (transplanted from a Japanese spec Supra), it was pretty perky with a little extra boost.

I always really liked my friend's Supra, mechanical quirks and all. He actually had two of them when we were in college together. The first was NA, but it was totaled when campus safety sideswiped him in the parking lot .

I've mentioned previously that I have a little bit of an aversion to forced induction, and personally I never would have bought what(at the time) was a 21 year old Turbo(or a car as old as I am). I know it was a constant source of trouble for my friend, and I think what ultimately led to(among other things) selling it for the truck. The gas mileage wasn't a concern after he got out of school, as his workplace was about 5 minutes from his house, but all the other little things bugged.

The last time I talked to him, he was talking about buying a newer 4th gen to supplement the car he bought to replace the truck. Of course, now that he has a real job and no family, he can afford to do that, whereas he couldn't keep both in college. I need to call him-as I haven't talked to him in a while-and find out if he ever found one.

 

[A.Goldberg]

Looking under my car for the cat.... LOL id like to see them try Daewoo's have low ground clearance. AFAIK the only O2 sensor i have is before the cat ive been under the car before all thats there is lines and the ass-pipe. Correct me if im wrong but the MUFFLER is what controls how loud the car is not the cat.

Removing the the cat will increase the noise of the car. The muffler's primary function is to reduce sound, but the cat will do so as well. Google it if you need evidence. You can still see under a car and generally crawl under most any sedan. I can see under my 5-series very easily. It's not comfortable and it would probably be impossible to work under there, but you can see nonetheless.

A person I once knew in the MA area said she removed her cat and gained 10HP on her lifted Jeep. however she stated that BECAUSE of the removed cat she has to do all the mechnical work herself because if she took it to a shop..... they would be required to report it for not having a cat.... not sure how true that is and if a mechanic would even care it had one or not..

Yes removing cats will increase your hp and mpg. I've read things about mechanics having to report, though I don't know if thats federally or state by state. I'd imagine most would not. Dealers however that sell cars without cats can incur huge fines ($25,000 federally).

SELL the car? haha NOPE! its rare as can be! mine is probably the ONLY 2001 Sedan in the entire state. (plenty of hatchbacks)

Probably for good reason

Running the engine higher doesn't Override the drag.... just slows the drag down and prevents me from NEEDING to up/downshift. I have taken it on the road with it idling high before (Goes about 15MPH without even pressing the gas).

Your having your car idle super high so it sounds like its overcoming whatever is dragging the car down. I'd love to see a video of what is actually happening here.

Its when i turn the car off and plug the IAC back in that it fits.... itll start and die or itll start idle low and die once put in gear and it makes the coolant boil running it at high RPMs

Weren't you going to replace the the IAC valve? Boiling coolant is not a good sign (is it boiling or is it air bubbles). You might have a leak and a low level. If it's air bubbles, then you have air in the system. You might have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or simply another broken thermostat.

You really should not be driving this car. Continuing to drive it may very likely lead to permanent damage, assuming that hasn't occurred yet.

 

[D.T.]

I've mentioned previously that I have a little bit of an aversion to forced induction

I just love factory FI. It's like "free" power to get uncorked - of course, if it's done right, and you add the caveat you might not get warranty work done on the motor (and associated subsystems).

I had a pretty radical 4th Gen Supra TT, though it was overdone to the point of it being a chore (to drive and maintain). Still a 60K mile motor, that had never been apart, handling 31-32PSI of boost is pretty amazing.

My next ride will almost certainly be FI (even though it sounds a touch odd, I'm cross shopping the GT-R and GT500 Convertible).

 

[MatthewLTL]

Removing the the cat will increase the noise of the car. The muffler's primary function is to reduce sound, but the cat will do so as well. Google it if you need evidence. You can still see under a car and generally crawl under most any sedan. I can see under my 5-series very easily. It's not comfortable and it would probably be impossible to work under there, but you can see nonetheless.


Yes removing cats will increase your hp and mpg. I've read things about mechanics having to report, though I don't know if thats federally or state by state. I'd imagine most would not. Dealers however that sell cars without cats can incur huge fines ($25,000 federally).


Probably for good reason


Your having your car idle super high so it sounds like its overcoming whatever is dragging the car down. I'd love to see a video of what is actually happening here.


Weren't you going to replace the the IAC valve? Boiling coolant is not a good sign (is it boiling or is it air bubbles). You might have a leak and a low level. If it's air bubbles, then you have air in the system. You might have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or simply another broken thermostat.

You really should not be driving this car. Continuing to drive it may very likely lead to permanent damage, assuming that hasn't occurred yet.

1. I'll get to a video eventually, damn camcorder keeps saying that my brand new fresh set of batteries are low after 1 minute of video......

2. no the IAC Valve works perfectly well. It, and the TPS are probably the only sensors not showing codes...... it boils and surges..... coolant will purge all the way to the top of the expansion tank and back down, no air in the system i bled that when i changed the thermostat, no coolant leaks as i never have to add any coolant, headgasket at 45k miles? unlikely (it's not a Saturn) and i dont have coolant in the oil, engine would overheat with a cracked head, blown head gasket (which would also have the car shooting thick smoke out the back) or a bad thermostat as the Engine temp gauge never gets above its normal range, when the Thermostat blew (literally) the 1st time in 2013 the car hesitated badly, I gave it gas then white smoke came out the driver's side of the hood as well as the front of the car, popped the hood the thremostat housing spit in 2 and a 1/4 mile trail of green piss was behind me.... when it failed again in 2014 the gauge simply started to climb but DID do the same thing (boiled coolant and surged the expansion tank)

 

[A.Goldberg]

1. I'll get to a video eventually, damn camcorder keeps saying that my brand new fresh set of batteries are low after 1 minute of video......

2. no the IAC Valve works perfectly well. It, and the TPS are probably the only sensors not showing codes...... it boils and surges..... coolant will purge all the way to the top of the expansion tank and back down, no air in the system i bled that when i changed the thermostat, no coolant leaks as i never have to add any coolant, headgasket at 45k miles? unlikely (it's not a Saturn) and i dont have coolant in the oil, engine would overheat with a cracked head, blown head gasket (which would also have the car shooting thick smoke out the back) or a bad thermostat as the Engine temp gauge never gets above its normal range, when the Thermostat blew (literally) the 1st time in 2013 the car hesitated badly, I gave it gas then white smoke came out the driver's side of the hood as well as the front of the car, popped the hood the thremostat housing spit in 2 and a 1/4 mile trail of green piss was behind me.... when it failed again in 2014 the gauge simply started to climb but DID do the same thing (boiled coolant and surged the expansion tank)

Boiling coolant is not a good sign. If your coolant level is good, then it's not leaking. If you're sure the boiling is not actually air, it means your coolant is too hot, which means either your engine is too hot or your coolant is not properly circulating. The replacement thermostat could be bad, clogged radiator, issue with the water pump. Or your system could be over pressuring, which could be as simple as problem with the radiator cap.

If it's air, it could be you did not properly refill the coolant, some cars are very temperamental with "burping" out the air.

How do you know the IAC valve works, I thought you had a code for that? Given your idle issues, that could be a culprit.

45,000 for a head gasket isn't normal, but with age and especially if you don't properly maintain your car (which we've already established), anything is possible. You can have a blown head gasket without coolant in the oil, the coolant would burn off as white exhaust smoke with a sweat smell. As long as your coolant isn't low/you haven't been needing to top it off, then that should not be your problem.

I'd start by checking your radiator cap.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Boiling coolant is not a good sign. If your coolant level is good, then it's not leaking. If you're sure the boiling is not actually air, it means your coolant is too hot, which means either your engine is too hot or your coolant is not properly circulating. The replacement thermostat could be bad, clogged radiator, issue with the water pump. Or your system could be over pressuring, which could be as simple as problem with the radiator cap.

If it's air, it could be you did not properly refill the coolant, some cars are very temperamental with "burping" out the air.

How do you know the IAC valve works, I thought you had a code for that? Given your idle issues, that could be a culprit.

45,000 for a head gasket isn't normal, but with age and especially if you don't properly maintain your car (which we've already established), anything is possible. You can have a blown head gasket without coolant in the oil, the coolant would burn off as white exhaust smoke with a sweat smell. As long as your coolant isn't low/you haven't been needing to top it off, then that should not be your problem.

I'd start by checking your radiator cap.

1. Expansion Tanks generally bleed themselves that is how they are designed i dont have intermetient heat so there is no air in the system
2. because the IAC when unplugged (engine off) will make the engine rev once started. If plugged in when off the car will run virtually silent for a few seconds and stall as the computer has to re-establish the readings. Idle issues arise only when plugging the IAC back in if left unplugged or once the ECU re-establishes the readings there is no issues.

3. Expansion Tank..... Radiator don't have a cap. I do smell a sweet smell i have since the thermostat blew in 2013 and i replaced the thermostat the sweet smell (smell of burning coolant) has never left.

 

[A.Goldberg]

1. Expansion Tanks generally bleed themselves that is how they are designed i dont have intermetient heat so there is no air in the system
2. because the IAC when unplugged (engine off) will make the engine rev once started. If plugged in when off the car will run virtually silent for a few seconds and stall as the computer has to re-establish the readings. Idle issues arise only when plugging the IAC back in if left unplugged or once the ECU re-establishes the readings there is no issues.

3. Expansion Tank..... Radiator don't have a cap. I do smell a sweet smell i have since the thermostat blew in 2013 and i replaced the thermostat the sweet smell (smell of burning coolant) has never left.

Ok, suit yourself