The Car Thread ... !

[MacBH928]

My idea behind lease vs buy is that you get to enjoy a wider range of cars. You can have a BMW 5 series for 6 months and then Jeep Wrangler for 3 months. You get to experience both cars for about what you pay in loan installments. When you buy it you have this big loan or cash negative on your hand, and when you sell it there is a huge drop in new vs used price.

There is another method where you would buy a used car and drive it for 6 months then you can sell it for about the same price of purchase if not more and you can just keep doing that. Though this method probably takes out any car that is 4 years or younger out of the choice pool as those will probably drop more in price for every extra year of usage and another exchange of hands.

@Relentless Power

If you want to take a vehicle, modify it, use it to its maximum, do road trips...sure buying outright is the only choice but for most people who usually just drive their car to work...leasing works great to drive Audis, BMW, heck even something more exotic like a Maserati.

Sadly many don’t. Someone I used to work with got made redundant recently. Between her car lease, rent, phone bills and the rest I’m really not sure she’ll survive for long. Credit card debt on top of that as well.

I now consider debt as an addiction. Take a loan responsibly. Seriously, while I can't explain how the human brain works, some people are very careful with their money and debt decisions and its just second nature to them while others seem unable to stay debt free. In fact, they seem to have an urge to take even more debt.

We need debt addiction institutes just like gambling and alcoholic addiction. My guess only is that its just too tempting to them to spend money they don't have on the hopes of paying it some how in the future.

Ahh, good for you! Some people get way too into debt.

I don't mind floating some money for a vehicle at a trivially low interest rate (or none at all) to: 1) reduce my concern over the vehicle (i.e., keeping it new, safe, maintenance cost free), and 2) increase my enjoyment of vehicle, plus at any given time I could pay off all our debt, including our house, so might as well keep the cash handy for _whatever_, i.e., cash is king, I can afford to pay cash, I choose not to.

I heard this before, where seriously rich people would still take a loan on stuff they can pay out right like cars and houses. I still don't understand it and is it really better to pay $50K in cash or $50K+7% per annum just on a longer period of time. Supposedly its a cash flow thing, but I guess if the rich does it then it is the better choice. But finance is not a topic to be discussed in this thread.

 

[Apple fanboy]

My idea behind lease vs buy is that you get to enjoy a wider range of cars. You can have a BMW 5 series for 6 months and then Jeep Wrangler for 3 months. You get to experience both cars for about what you pay in loan installments. When you buy it you have this big loan or cash negative on your hand, and when you sell it there is a huge drop in new vs used price.

There is another method where you would buy a used car and drive it for 6 months then you can sell it for about the same price of purchase if not more and you can just keep doing that. Though this method probably takes out any car that is 4 years or younger out of the choice pool as those will probably drop more in price for every extra year of usage and another exchange of hands.

@Relentless Power

If you want to take a vehicle, modify it, use it to its maximum, do road trips...sure buying outright is the only choice but for most people who usually just drive their car to work...leasing works great to drive Audis, BMW, heck even something more exotic like a Maserati.



I now consider debt as an addiction. Take a loan responsibly. Seriously, while I can't explain how the human brain works, some people are very careful with their money and debt decisions and its just second nature to them while others seem unable to stay debt free. In fact, they seem to have an urge to take even more debt.

We need debt addiction institutes just like gambling and alcoholic addiction. My guess only is that its just too tempting to them to spend money they don't have on the hopes of paying it some how in the future.



I heard this before, where seriously rich people would still take a loan on stuff they can pay out right like cars and houses. I still don't understand it and is it really better to pay $50K in cash or $50K+7% per annum just on a longer period of time. Supposedly its a cash flow thing, but I guess if the rich does it then it is the better choice. But finance is not a topic to be discussed in this thread.

Definitely don’t want to get into more car finance discussions, but I will say I’ve never owned a new car. Yes I can see the attraction, but nearly new is good enough for me. Buying new probably makes leasing more economic as you don’t lose the big depreciation if you buy. But if you buy nearly new the sims (for me) work out better to buy rather than lease.
Never taken a car loan either. I just drive what I can afford.

 

[D.T.]

My idea behind lease vs buy is that you get to enjoy a wider range of cars. You can have a BMW 5 series for 6 months and then Jeep Wrangler for 3 months. You get to experience both cars for about what you pay in loan installments. When you buy it you have this big loan or cash negative on your hand, and when you sell it there is a huge drop in new vs used price.

Well, yeah, you don't really do 3 or 6 month leases, generally they're 24-36 months.

Here's the basic gist of a lease vs. finance, let's assume a $50K car, new, for 36 months. FYI, you can negotiate everything in a lease, just like a finance, the purchase price, the interest rate, etc.

The lease projects the value of the car (called the residual) at the end of the contract period, i.e., 36 months, So let's say that's $30K. You pay for the $20K worth of value that's lost over that period, plus some interest. This is also something to note: in many states, including FL, you only have to pay tax on the amount you're leasing, so in this example, $20K vs. $50K.

So at the end of 36 months, we just hand the car over to the dealer. Leases also have a specific mileage allowance built into the contract, with usually a fee-per-mile if you go over. It's expressed in miles-per-year, however (some people don't realize this), it's only considered as a cumulative total vs. the lease duration, i.e., 15K miles/year, really means, 45,000 total miles at the end of 36 months. To be clear, there's a "penalty" in a finance for mileage, as it affects the value of the car at resale, so it's not a totally unique concept to leasing.

So let's just say it was $600/month.

With a finance, same car, 60 months let's say the payment was $800 (it would be higher since you're financing the entire amount) and look at what happens at 36 months vs. the lease if this was the period you wanted to own the car:

Let's say the amount owed on the finance is less than the current KBB value, it's not totally unlikely, you've been paying more. So you might sell your $50K car in 36 months, for $30K, and only owe $23K, however, you've also been paying $200 more a month, so you've spent an additional $7K over that same period, so now it's a wash.

Plus, you still have to sell it, or deal with a dealer trade-in, and you're also dealing with sudden market shifts, maybe the vehicle doesn't depreciate as fast as predicted, bonus, you're making $3K on the sale, or, maybe it depreciates even faster, there's a new model, a bunch of recalls hit that reduces sales of the model, well, now you actually in worse shape vs. a lease.

Of course, this is where it would start tipping towards the finance being better, now, every year, as the depreciation rapidly slows, you're getting more and more ahead of the value vs. money spent (in a positive way), and of course, if you then keep the car after it's paid off, you're, "driving for free", but this is when the long term costs get trickier, now you're dealing with possible repairs.

We know what our mileage will be, and it's generally lower-ish (we fall into 12K/year), I want my family vehicle to always be relatively new, under warranty, be less prone to issues, we like to "re-evaluate" our lifestyle every 3 years or so, so I like to know I have a zero-hassle escape mechanism for the vehicle, I do 0 down, our current lease is 0.025% finance (yes, 2 zeroes ...), and they were offering crazy good residuals (sometimes they'll see a big upwards spike the used market for a certain model). We also put this vehicle on the business books, so there's some compelling reasons to use a leasing model for it.

I consider all the parameters, use cases, money working for me, money into a car, etc., I've been buying cars for a _long_ time, I've leased, I've financed, I've done cash purchases - our other vehicle is not leased

 

[Apple fanboy]

Well, yeah, you don't really do 3 or 6 month leases, generally they're 24-36 months.

Here's the basic gist of a lease vs. finance, let's assume a $50K car, new, for 36 months. FYI, you can negotiate everything in a lease, just like a finance, the purchase price, the interest rate, etc.

The lease projects the value of the car (called the residual) at the end of the contract period, i.e., 36 months, So let's say that's $30K. You pay for the $20K worth of value that's lost over that period, plus some interest. This is also something to note: in many states, including FL, you only have to pay tax on the amount you're leasing, so in this example, $20K vs. $50K.

So at the end of 36 months, we just hand the car over to the dealer. Leases also have a specific mileage allowance built into the contract, with usually a fee-per-mile if you go over. It's expressed in miles-per-year, however (some people don't realize this), it's only considered as a cumulative total vs. the lease duration, i.e., 15K miles/year, really means, 45,000 total miles at the end of 36 months. To be clear, there's a "penalty" in a finance for mileage, as it affects the value of the car at resale, so it's not a totally unique concept to leasing.

So let's just say it was $600/month.

With a finance, same car, 60 months let's say the payment was $800 (it would be higher since you're financing the entire amount) and look at what happens at 36 months vs. the lease if this was the period you wanted to own the car:

Let's say the amount owed on the finance is less than the current KBB value, it's not totally unlikely, you've been paying more. So you might sell your $50K car in 36 months, for $30K, and only owe $23K, however, you've also been paying $200 more a month, so you've spent an additional $7K over that same period, so now it's a wash.

Plus, you still have to sell it, or deal with a dealer trade-in, and you're also dealing with sudden market shifts, maybe the vehicle doesn't depreciate as fast as predicted, bonus, you're making $3K on the sale, or, maybe it depreciates even faster, there's a new model, a bunch of recalls hit that reduces sales of the model, well, now you actually in worse shape vs. a lease.

Of course, this is where it would start tipping towards the finance being better, now, every year, as the depreciation rapidly slows, you're getting more and more ahead of the value vs. money spent (in a positive way), and of course, if you then keep the car after it's paid off, you're, "driving for free", but this is when the long term costs get trickier, now you're dealing with possible repairs.

We know what our mileage will be, and it's generally lower-ish (we fall into 12K/year), I want my family vehicle to always be relatively new, under warranty, be less prone to issues, we like to "re-evaluate" our lifestyle every 3 years or so, so I like to know I have a zero-hassle escape mechanism for the vehicle, I do 0 down, our current lease is 0.025% finance (yes, 2 zeroes ...), and they were offering crazy good residuals (sometimes they'll see a big upwards spike the used market for a certain model). We also put this vehicle on the business books, so there's some compelling reasons to use a leasing model for it.

I consider all the parameters, use cases, money working for me, money into a car, etc., I've been buying cars for a _long_ time, I've leased, I've financed, I've done cash purchases - our other vehicle is not leased

That’s a very comprehensive description. I think it’s fair to say buying cars cost you whatever way you do it.
Leasing, financing, depreciation, maintenance, running costs.
I buy a year or two old. That way you negate the majority of the depreciation.
I pay cash rather than finance so you don’t pay interest.
Maintenance is a gamble. But generally I’ve had no big hits. When I was younger I’d do a fair bit of servicing myself. But these days I don’t really have the time. Plus older cars were more mechanical and easier to work on (just ask @bunnspecial!). These days it’s not like you are adjusting your points with a set of feeler gauges!

 

[44267547]

Looking ahead at current options to trade in my 2014 2.0 T Sonata as follows :

1.) Tesla Model 3 Perfm.
2.) 19’ Camaro 2SS
3.) Camry XSE 3.5 or Avalon TRD

Change of Plans:

So I ruled out the Tesla model three, simply because I don’t have enough superchargers in my area. Actually, I was very close to buying one, I bookmarked three of them (All in white), but I just I’m not quite ready for an EV yet due to my region. I really don’t have any other qualms with the Model 3 (The interiors are...different to say the least), as it was something that I would gladly welcome into my garage, but it Definitely Will be part of my future.

So the Avalon TRD that I looked at is also ruled out. The only problem I have with the TRD, it’s overpriced, and here’s why, it’s the same performance numbers as the 3.5l/ 301HP Camry, except with with an upgraded suspension and bigger brakes. If Toyota had added a supercharger to enhance the experience, I think it would’ve been a ‘sealed-deal’ for me, (even though they couldn’t even put a freakin’ remote start on the key fob). But still, The TRD ‘As is‘, I’d probably be able to score it for 38K off the lot [It starts at $45k], as it just doesn’t appeal To the majority of the consumers, where the Camry is probably the better option.

So............

For the first time ever, I’m purchasing a Camaro!

I’m narrowing it down to a ‘Red hot’ 19’ 2SS, The looks I actually don’t have an issue with to much, I still however, would like a boosted Camaro, so I’m looking at ZL1 or a Camaro that is aftermarket Supercharged with quality mods and professionally installed is a must. At this junction, I’m likely spending the extra money to get something boosted, because, well, why not? 😁. My prerequisites are it has to be a one owner car and less than 5,000 miles on the odometer, with Leather, remote start, HIDs, ect.

The Prius and SHO are the dailies, as the Scat, Cobra and Camaro will be the performance/track rides. (The Tri-fecta will be complete!)

I’m a supporter of all V8’s, and I’m not loyal to any auto-manufacturer, as I have been an owner across the board of all makes/models.

More later....:

 

[cyb3rdud3]

That’s a very comprehensive description. I think it’s fair to say buying cars cost you whatever way you do it.
Leasing, financing, depreciation, maintenance, running costs.
I buy a year or two old. That way you negate the majority of the depreciation.
I pay cash rather than finance so you don’t pay interest.
Maintenance is a gamble. But generally I’ve had no big hits. When I was younger I’d do a fair bit of servicing myself. But these days I don’t really have the time. Plus older cars were more mechanical and easier to work on (just ask @bunnspecial!). These days it’s not like you are adjusting your points with a set of feeler gauges!

You make your money when you buy, not when you sell Buy smart and you don't have the majority of the depreciation

I'm not buying these rose-tinted glasses that older care was easier to work on. The principles are all the same, they haven't changed at all. Whether I work on my daughters 1987 VW 1.8 4 cylinder with Digifant fuel injection, or on my Range Rover V8 Super Charged with active air suspension and a fiber optic network. They still all do the same thing. The mechanical principles haven't changed at all. Ok, so there is a bit more security and you'll have to code in a few parts with a computer, really no big deal to just hook it up.

 

[bunnspecial]

I'm not buying these rose-tinted glasses that older care was easier to work on. The principles are all the same, they haven't changed at all. Whether I work on my daughters 1987 VW 1.8 4 cylinder with Digifant fuel injection, or on my Range Rover V8 Super Charged with active air suspension and a fiber optic network. They still all do the same thing. The mechanical principles haven't changed at all. Ok, so there is a bit more security and you'll have to code in a few parts with a computer, really no big deal to just hook it up.

When your "ECM" consists of a carburetor(with two adjustments-idle and mixture) and distributor with points and a handful of moving parts, it's not hard to wrap your head around what's going on, to isolate a problem using relatively simple tools, and to fix that part with other simple tools.

Not too long ago, someone in a TR-6 stalled on the road in front of my house. Of course, I wasn't particularly surprised given that it was a Triumph, but I held my nose and offered my assistance. The guy had no idea what was going on. In about two minutes with him cranking the engine on my command and me using a neon spark tester, I isolated it to the ignition side(no spark), then used a test light to confirm closed up points. I used a screwdriver and a business card to set point gap, then put the distributor cap back on and told the guy to crank while flooring it. The engine coughed twice, caught, and after a quick up and back the road the owner declared it "running better than it ever had"(which, again, isn't saying much given that it was a Triumph ).

Yes, systems like that aren't going to go 100K+ without maintenance, but the maintenance is simple.

There's also the fact that often part replacements don't require you unbolting a half dozen other things. I can remove spark plugs, gap a new set, and have them installed in the MG in far less time than it takes me to even SEE a spark plug on a typical modern engine.

If you can read codes(I use to be able to pull most all of them-I haven't updated my software in a while so can miss them on newer vehicles) and more importantly have the know-how to do a "big picture" interpretation, you can usually pinpoint the problem or just where to look for it. If course then you still have to get there....

Plus, new cars just have a whole lot more that can go wrong.

 

[44267547]

I'm not buying these rose-tinted glasses that older care was easier to work on. The principles are all the same, they haven't changed at all.

Sounds like you’re overstating a bit. Apple fanboy said “Plus older cars were more mechanical and easier to work on.” That’s entirely accurate compared to a modernized vehicle today. Think about it, older cars were far less reliant on computerized mechanics. Case in point, I have a Prius, and I was told that it has four onboard ECM modules, and that only Toyota would be able to service this particular car for certain fault codes for mechanical repairs, as compared to a 1965 Chevy Nova, where you could bring that car anyone to work on because it doesn’t rely on computerized technology where it’s Predominately mechanical, which would be far less time consuming without the need for computerized diagnostics.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

Sounds like you’re overstating a bit. Apple fanboy said “Plus older cars were more mechanical and easier to work on.” That’s entirely accurate compared to a modernized vehicle today. Think about it, older cars were far less reliant on computerized mechanics. Case in point, I have a Prius, and I was told that it has four onboard ECM modules, and that only Toyota would be able to service this particular car for certain fault codes for mechanical repairs, as compared to a 1965 Chevy Nova, where you could bring that car anyone to work on because it doesn’t rely on computerized technology where it’s Predominately mechanical, which would be far less time consuming without the need for computerized diagnostics.

Sounds like you are "scared" of computers. The Prius has a lot more module, but that doesn't matter, they are just modules, you can address them, you can read them. And don't believe everything a dealer says, they are talking out of their backside. There really isn't some big mystery when there is a computer involved, just read it and follow it up. Mechanically exactly the same things are happening and the laws of physics don't change all of a sudden.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

When your "ECM" consists of a carburetor(with two adjustments-idle and mixture) and distributor with points and a handful of moving parts, it's not hard to wrap your head around what's going on, to isolate a problem using relatively simple tools, and to fix that part with other simple tools.

Not too long ago, someone in a TR-6 stalled on the road in front of my house. Of course, I wasn't particularly surprised given that it was a Triumph, but I held my nose and offered my assistance. The guy had no idea what was going on. In about two minutes with him cranking the engine on my command and me using a neon spark tester, I isolated it to the ignition side(no spark), then used a test light to confirm closed up points. I used a screwdriver and a business card to set point gap, then put the distributor cap back on and told the guy to crank while flooring it. The engine coughed twice, caught, and after a quick up and back the road the owner declared it "running better than it ever had"(which, again, isn't saying much given that it was a Triumph ).

Yes, systems like that aren't going to go 100K+ without maintenance, but the maintenance is simple.

There's also the fact that often part replacements don't require you unbolting a half dozen other things. I can remove spark plugs, gap a new set, and have them installed in the MG in far less time than it takes me to even SEE a spark plug on a typical modern engine.

If you can read codes(I use to be able to pull most all of them-I haven't updated my software in a while so can miss them on newer vehicles) and more importantly have the know-how to do a "big picture" interpretation, you can usually pinpoint the problem or just where to look for it. If course then you still have to get there....

Plus, new cars just have a whole lot more that can go wrong.

Sure in 2020 a computer is a simple tool as well A quick diagnostic scan and it can point you in the right direction as well as to which sensor is the culprit. Alternatively, you can spend an hour with the multi-meter to try the various sensors. A combustion engine is a combustion engine, the principles are all the same.

The spark plug example is a nice story but that is just what it is. It really isn't any more difficult to change the spark plugs on a modern Audi A3 or Range Rover. They are still in the same place

It sounds like a few of you guys get overwhelmed and forget that they are still just engines and work on the exact same principles, same as the cooling, steering, suspension, etc.

 

[Matz]

Sure in 2020 a computer is a simple tool as well A quick diagnostic scan and it can point you in the right direction as well as to which sensor is the culprit. Alternatively, you can spend an hour with the multi-meter to try the various sensors. A combustion engine is a combustion engine, the principles are all the same.

The spark plug example is a nice story but that is just what it is. It really isn't any more difficult to change the spark plugs on a modern Audi A3 or Range Rover. They are still in the same place

It sounds like a few of you guys get overwhelmed and forget that they are still just engines and work on the exact same principles, same as the cooling, steering, suspension, etc.

In addition to the need for a different approach to both diagnosis (computer) and repair (module replacement), there is typically much less room in the engine compartments of newer vehicles than there is in older vehicles. I find that to be more of an issue than the electronics, but not that much of an issue. All that plumbing, engine cover, what have you, can be visually overwhelming.

On my car, a 2014 with a V8, maintenance is still straightforward. It may take a bit longer, but I change the plugs (there are 16 of them), oil, filter, etc. Very little has changed in that regard. Fortunately I haven't had any significant problems with it, yet. But as you say, assuming a basic understanding of an IC engine, it's basically a matter of using a different tool to find out what's going on.

I am truly grateful that, as lad, I had a job pumping gas at a station that did actual mechanical work, including engine and transmission rebuilds, and even built drag racing cars (including an 11 second VW Bug, of all things). Those mechanics taught me a lot; I learned a lot about how cars work, and that's when I started modifying and racing my own.

But my older cars and motorcycles had a much greater tendency to run poorly or strand me, without my or professional intervention, than any of my newer vehicles have. Sure, I could usually fix them, sometimes on the side of the road, and feel great satisfaction at being able to do so. I used to carry tools and a manual with me for such occasions. Sometimes it was fun.

For the past couple of decades, I've preferred modern cars, in part, because they typically involve much less drama, and do what I want a car to do much better than the older ones did.

That said, I still own a pretty good set of tools. When I retire, assuming I have more time available than I do now, I may take on an older car or motorcycle as a project, just for fun. As a hobby, though. Not as a daily driver.

 

[Apple fanboy]

In addition to the need for a different approach to both diagnosis (computer) and repair (module replacement), there is typically much less room in the engine compartments of newer vehicles than there is in older vehicles. I find that to be more of an issue than the electronics, but not that much of an issue. All that plumbing, engine cover, what have you, can be visually overwhelming.

On my car, a 2014 with a V8, maintenance is still straightforward. It may take a bit longer, but I change the plugs (there are 16 of them), oil, filter, etc. Very little has changed in that regard. Fortunately I haven't had any significant problems with it, yet. But as you say, assuming a basic understanding of an IC engine, it's basically a matter of using a different tool to find out what's going on.

I am truly grateful that, as lad, I had a job pumping gas at a station that did actual mechanical work, including engine and transmission rebuilds, and even built drag racing cars (including an 11 second VW Bug, of all things). Those mechanics taught me a lot; I learned a lot about how cars work, and that's when I started modifying and racing my own.

But my older cars and motorcycles had a much greater tendency to run poorly or strand me, without my or professional intervention, than any of my newer vehicles have. Sure, I could usually fix them, sometimes on the side of the road, and feel great satisfaction at being able to do so. I used to carry tools and a manual with me for such occasions. Sometimes it was fun.

For the past couple of decades, I've preferred modern cars, in part, because they typically involve much less drama, and do what I want a car to do much better than the older ones did.

That said, I still own a pretty good set of tools. When I retire, assuming I have more time available than I do now, I may take on an older car or motorcycle as a project, just for fun. As a hobby, though. Not as a daily driver.

Yes it’s always okay to run an older vehicle if you have a back up. I can remember having to take the bus to get an oil filter because the shop had sold me the wrong one. Of course the old one was stuck on, so I removed it by sticking a screwdriver through it (yes my Dad taught me that trick!).
Of course these days you have YouTube and the like to assist. In the days when I did my own servicing etc, it was the Haynes manual and nothing else. I started working on cars with my dad. And he was always around if I got stuck.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

Yes it’s always okay to run an older vehicle if you have a back up. I can remember having to take the bus to get an oil filter because the shop had sold me the wrong one. Of course the old one was stuck on, so I removed it by sticking a screwdriver through it (yes my Dad taught me that trick!).
Of course these days you have YouTube and the like to assist. In the days when I did my own servicing etc, it was the Haynes manual and nothing else. I started working on cars with my dad. And he was always around if I got stuck.

A Haynes or preferably a Bentley workshop manual comes in handy. Although we found that more so to get the manufacturers torque settings correct opposed to anything else.

But granted having the parts catalogues online to search by exact part numbers makes it easier to find some of the more difficult parts. Especially so before you take them off.

Luckily my daughter (17) is pretty good at fabricating now; both plastic parts and even welding. For the rest we figure it out, be organised when taking it off and put it back on in order opposed to chucking the parts in a pile in the corner ?

 

[MacBH928]

When it comes to consumer luxury cars, the battle is always BMW vs Mercedes while mostly people will look at Audi as the lesser although I feel like the Audi designs is the better in the interior while Mercedes wins for exterior. Historically, I don't recall hearing much of Audi as in the past it might have been just another VW and not a luxury car. Somewhere around 2002 it started to appear as if its a BMW/Benz competitor. I never heard of luxury Audi's 70s->90s. Anyone willing to explain I am willing to hear.

@cyb3rdud3

New cars are purposely made more difficult to repair on your own so you are more likely have to take it to the dealership. Weird bolts and screws, tight corners, hard to reach areas...etc for example I heard if you replace the battery on newer BMWs you have to...re-program the car! Also cars are more sensitive they probably have to work with specific grade oil or fuel with specific octane level. Each car has its own spec and systems, unlike in the older days where one mechanic can program fix and repair any brand of car. There is a video where Scott Kilmer on YouTube explains how in the past you only needed simple cheap tools to be a mechanic but now tools only can cost up towards 10s of thousands.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

True, as there are several types of battery you and many more demands made on it you’ll have to let the battery management module know what you’ve got in the car.

Relatively easy to do, just plug itin the OBD port and configure the car. Sure you need the tool but there are plenty on the market. I’ve got the specific tool for my Range Rover where on my mobile phone I can configure it. Also got a tablet I plug in to any car. Heck even can read the security codes and match a new key from eBay and the likes. Then have the blade copied at a local shop for a few coins and job done.

Really not that difficult at all.

 

[JohnR]

Change of Plans:

So I ruled out the Tesla model three, simply because I don’t have enough superchargers in my area. Actually, I was very close to buying one, I bookmarked three of them (All in white), but I just I’m not quite ready for an EV yet due to my region. I really don’t have any other qualms with the Model 3 (The interiors are...different to say the least), as it was something that I would gladly welcome into my garage, but it Definitely Will be part of my future.

Where are you from? I don't have any superchargers in my town, but that's ok because I charge at home

 

[bunnspecial]

The spark plug example is a nice story but that is just what it is. It really isn't any more difficult to change the spark plugs on a modern Audi A3 or Range Rover. They are still in the same place

Yes, and on my Lincoln I have to pull the intake manifold and a handful of other parts just to see the top of the plugs.

I know yes they're "just" computers, but at the same time there's a lot to be said for really ONLY needing simple tools to diagnose a problem.

Some things haven't changed. The brakes on my MG, at the end of the day, aren't really different from my Lincoln. The MG does have those work-of-the-devil mousetrap contraptions on the back that fortunately are happy with an annual clean out and maybe a new wheel cylinder every 10 years or so. The front calipers are somewhat different in construction(2 piston fixed on the MG, one piston floating on the Lincoln), and a fixed caliper can cause you to scratch your head the first time you're around one if you've only dealt with floating. The only other appreciable difference(and this is a big one) is the ABS module between the M/C and the brakes, but that's reliable and probably won't need attention in the life of the car(I just am extra careful to always retract pistons with the bleeder open so I'm not forcing fluid back through the ABS module). Of course an M/C change is...a lot more involved...on the Lincoln than the MG.

But, as mentioned, space to actually work on stuff is nice. I've done plenty of moderately intense repairs on modern cars, and half the time is spent taking off stuff to actually access what you nee.

To the sparkplug example, again a bit extreme, but I could have the engine out of my MG in less time(~4 hours give or take) or the head off the engine without pulling it in less time than it took me to do a spark plug job on the 98-02 Continentals my dad use to love-and I did enough of them to know what to do without consulting a book.

 

[PowerMac G4 MDD]

[deleted]

 

[44267547]

Where are you from? I don't have any superchargers in my town, but that's ok because I charge at home

It’s nothing personal, but I never provide my location to anyone online for safe-guarding. I do live in the Midwest.

The problem is where I live, We just started adding superchargers about three years ago, and in order to actually have a supercharger ‘designated station’, It’s ‘ordinance related‘ where we have to have a council consensus when superChargers are installed, due to cost, location sites and implementation. It’s Really weird, because the city north of me which has over 100,000 POP, has seven supercharger stations, and the city below me has 10 supercharger stations, and we have none in our location between both of those cities. So as you can see, it’s based on the region where you are.

I definitely know I could upgrade the charging frequency in my garage if I had chosen the Model 3, but that’s also another problem in itself, because I have multiple cars in my garage that I would have to shape-shift around where the Tesla would have to be in a designated spot, as I also am contemplating installing a hydraulic lift in my garage, and I’m not sure how that will all play out.

 

[44267547]

Haven't posted here in a long time.
Here's a 2006 Maserati GranSport Spyder with under 16,000 miles.

View attachment 952281

Fun. Yours? A friends?

Edit:

@PowerMac G4 MDD edited his post after- the- fact of my response.

 

[MacBH928]

I stumbled upon this "Mansory" Lamborghini Urus... it looks so good. Haven't seen a car that looks so good in some time. Very impressed with the interior, much improvement on the original design. They all should be coming out of the factory looking like this.This looks like some space vehicle from Microsoft's Halo game.

That being said, I will never pay for it because its about $500K from what I hear. I mean even if I was a millionaire you would double think paying so much into a car. Not because of the price, just thinking of all the poor and needy people around the world.

Venatus - wide body

The limited edition called Mansory Venatus based on Lamborghini Urus fulfills the dreams of the rich who love to put the pedal to the metal. At Mansory we like to push the limits, not only when it comes to speed, but also your fantasies.

www.mansory.com

OK, this is very interesting ...

Nikola's Badger Is Dead as GM-Nikola Agreement Is Scaled Back

GM and Nikola have revised their earlier agreement; in this smaller deal, GM will only be supplying Nikola with fuel cells rather than building the Badger.

www.caranddriver.com

View attachment 951600



Hahaha, the company name, Nikola ... somewhere, Musk is filled with rage

Thats a nice truck! But I care for the interior more than the exterior and for now this is vaporware for me. I have seen many people bring big promises. On the other hand, many people indeed delivered. We will have to wait and see. One thing I don't like with electric cars is that they tend to make them look like from Startrek... not exactly ugly but I don't want to be the show-off driving in a sci-fi car. Seriously that thing looks like what in the 70s people would imagine us driving in the year 2000. Tesla truck is a joke compared to this...if they are serious about what they showed.

I am just happy for Nikola Tesla he is finally getting the right recognition and "Nikola" AND "Tesla" make a great brand name...especially for an electric centered product.

 

[JohnR]

OK, this is very interesting ...

Nikola's Badger Is Dead as GM-Nikola Agreement Is Scaled Back

GM and Nikola have revised their earlier agreement; in this smaller deal, GM will only be supplying Nikola with fuel cells rather than building the Badger.

www.caranddriver.com

View attachment 951600



Hahaha, the company name, Nikola ... somewhere, Musk is filled with rage

interesting read: https://hindenburgresearch.com/nikola/

I think that Nikola is smoke screen for nothing

 

[D.T.]

New cars are purposely made more difficult to repair on your own so you are more likely have to take it to the dealership.

There's not a ton of business value for a manufacturer to spend engineering cycles, to "make it more difficult to repair" when they're doing a repairs for free, under warranty. I think the complexity of repair is purely a side effect of the increasingly complexity of vehicles, combined with no proactive "repairability" effort spent on designs (not unlike most modern electronics/devices/computers ...)

interesting read: https://hindenburgresearch.com/nikola/

I think that Nikola is smoke screen for nothing

Thanks! Yeah, I like the idea of the majors engaging the EV industry, including, by way of partnerships/acquisitions of startups without the fab/build/delivery mechanisms in place - but until I can walk in and buy something, it may be a "back of the napkin" product.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

For those who love simplicity The 1987 VW Golf MK2 1.8 8v GTI Engine bay....

Before...

And after Corona lockdown

 

[Matz]

That’s great! Reminds me of my 87 Jetta GLI I bought used and modded.
Mine had an upgraded cam, upgraded exhaust, stainless brake lines, performance rotors and pads, Bilsteins, and urethane suspension bushings.

It was a lot of fun to work on and to drive.