That will be a new world also - thus far I use the native iPhone/Mac apps and experiment with a couple of other apps.
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Thinking of buying a digital camera, prob s/h
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Yes, there was and apparently still is some issue with DXO and RAW processing/conversion of Fuji.....? I'm not sure exactly what the problems were and maybe still are, but my guess is that since Fuji uses a somewhat different process than most of the other camera manufacturers there's something in there which hasn't worked out well with DXO. Maybe it's all those film simulation modes? I think it has only been in the last update of DXO PhotoLab (v.6) that they are now including Fuji in their list. Other software programs have apparently not had the same issues, so it would seem that the issue has been pretty much limited to DXO PhotoLab. ??
I agree with Darmok that Apple's Photos would probably work just fine for JPGs but when shooting RAW it really is a good idea to look around, try out different editing programs, find what works most intuitively and comfortably for you and brings you the results you desire. I think most programs, including the popular Adobe subscription Lightroom, now are able to handle Apple's M1 and M2 silicon platform comfortably, but that is something to check, along with compatibility with the camera model. Rosetta does a surprisingly good job, though, so it's not a huge issue. More of an issue is being sure you've got plenty of storage on the machine and also at least a couple of external drives to back up/store/use as supplemental drives rather than filling up your machine's internal SSD with image files.
Definitely in the beginning it will work out more easily for you to tackle one new thing at a time, and shooting in AUTO, shooting JPG and taking the time to sort out the camera so that you feel comfortable with it before then jumping into other new challenges straightaway makes the most sense.
So much new stuff to have fun learning about and exploring, so much to challenge you -- but the good news is that we'll be here right with you to answer the questions you'll have and offer suggestions as needed....
I agree with Darmok that Apple's Photos would probably work just fine for JPGs but when shooting RAW it really is a good idea to look around, try out different editing programs, find what works most intuitively and comfortably for you and brings you the results you desire. I think most programs, including the popular Adobe subscription Lightroom, now are able to handle Apple's M1 and M2 silicon platform comfortably, but that is something to check, along with compatibility with the camera model. Rosetta does a surprisingly good job, though, so it's not a huge issue. More of an issue is being sure you've got plenty of storage on the machine and also at least a couple of external drives to back up/store/use as supplemental drives rather than filling up your machine's internal SSD with image files.
Definitely in the beginning it will work out more easily for you to tackle one new thing at a time, and shooting in AUTO, shooting JPG and taking the time to sort out the camera so that you feel comfortable with it before then jumping into other new challenges straightaway makes the most sense.
So much new stuff to have fun learning about and exploring, so much to challenge you -- but the good news is that we'll be here right with you to answer the questions you'll have and offer suggestions as needed....
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They’re small, not bright, and the GX85 lens typically showed distortion. Mine did, used to hear a lot of people mentioning it. My GX9 is not nearly as bad but I would not want to depend on it for metering, bokeh or manual focus. But they work fine for composing a shot, what angle, what framing. I'm fine with mine as they both do/did what I need, composing.
The GX85 evf did not tilt, the tilting evf on my GX9 is taped down. It’s of no use to me and when carried on a shoulder strap is incessantly tilting all over the place. The LCD on the GX9 is gorgeous. The high dpi screen as well as some thought as to fonts, size and colors.
There’s a lot of common sense built into Panasonics that don’t show up in statistics. I thoroughly enjoy shooting my GM1 and GX9. Probably more than the 8 Fuji's I’ve had so far as they have a consistent UI and excellent flexibility in dynamic shooting scenarios (profiles, virtually no menu diving).
On the other end of the spectrum is my Oly E-P7 which I find so frustrating in its shooting algorithms I shoot manual only and relegate the camera to day time use only. The downside of buying a camera not sold in the USA is you can’t find a copy to test before purchase.
But I still suggest an RX100. It will prevent you from diving into the rabbit hole of lenses and other gear and make you focus on captures.
At one time, it was because they didn't know what to do with the RAFs (Fuji's RAW file extension) coming off the X-Trans sensors. They have a different RGB pixel layout over the classic Bayer model. On my M43 RAW files, DXO Noise Reduction AI turns every lens into a better one. On Fuji, I often can't tell the difference with it on or off, and that's using a trial of Photolab 6. The only plus I can see with DXO PL6 is that t will let you pick the film sim you shot with as your base. Beyond that, On1 2023 does much better.
Yeah, Panasonic really puts a lot of thought into their designs. The G9's layout is fantastic, and the menus are good enough without my up-close glasses. The FF Panny's are amazingly capable. In another forum, I've been following a member who shoots with the S5 and S1R, and the results are incredible. He's amazed at how much he's able to push shadow recovery. His pre-processed landscapes look so dark, but the final results are incredible and no highlights are blown. If I went FF, I'd probably get the S5.
Thanks, Darmok, for clearing up the mystery (for me) about DXO and Fuji! Now I have a better understanding of what the issues have been. If I had a Fuji camera I definitely would choose an editing program other than DXO! I like it well enough for what I do with my Sonys.....I'm not into elaborate retouching/editing/layering, whatever.
That said, I have been seeing that ON1 has been doing interesting things and one of these days when I get around to it I'm going to give it a trial, see if I like it.
That said, I have been seeing that ON1 has been doing interesting things and one of these days when I get around to it I'm going to give it a trial, see if I like it.
The Fuji film sims* only affect jpeg images; they do nothing for raw and are overridden when working in a raw editor**. They are great for people who want to use a Fuji like an old fashioned film camera (and many of their cameras are styled with film camera dials, rather than being menu driven) OR who want a true point and shoot, no editing approach (or some combination thereof).
I personally haven't really played with the sims much, other than switching between color and bw for the LCD rendering because I my workflow attempts to match Fuji, Nikon, and real film together, so I raw edit everything. I definitely see the appeal of using the film like (or even non film like, but custom) jpegs, but I am too much of a control freak not to shoot in raw all the time, and I like the latitude of raw files for editing.
But for someone coming from an iPhone approach and not being comfortable with manual mode and raw editing, I can see how it might be nice to set up several different jpeg styles in camera to have finished images straight out of the camera.
*This is for custom sims you can program in camera. There are some default sims that most raw editors can read and approximate.
**There is a Fuji program that allows you to apply custom film sims in post, but it requires a (free) Fuji software (Fuji Raw X Studio) and for the camera to be attached to the computer, and the program uses the camera as the editing engine. I haven't personally tried this either as it seems like more of a hassle than just shooting raw and applying a preset of my own. But it is technically possible to post-edit RAF files and apply sims to raw files.
I personally haven't really played with the sims much, other than switching between color and bw for the LCD rendering because I my workflow attempts to match Fuji, Nikon, and real film together, so I raw edit everything. I definitely see the appeal of using the film like (or even non film like, but custom) jpegs, but I am too much of a control freak not to shoot in raw all the time, and I like the latitude of raw files for editing.
But for someone coming from an iPhone approach and not being comfortable with manual mode and raw editing, I can see how it might be nice to set up several different jpeg styles in camera to have finished images straight out of the camera.
*This is for custom sims you can program in camera. There are some default sims that most raw editors can read and approximate.
**There is a Fuji program that allows you to apply custom film sims in post, but it requires a (free) Fuji software (Fuji Raw X Studio) and for the camera to be attached to the computer, and the program uses the camera as the editing engine. I haven't personally tried this either as it seems like more of a hassle than just shooting raw and applying a preset of my own. But it is technically possible to post-edit RAF files and apply sims to raw files.
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Or run the raws through Iridient's XTransformer first and edit DNG's. Spend the time to understand and set the prefs you want and magic! Other than spending a bundle on C1, I feel XTransformer is a must for Fuji shooters.
Thanks for clarifying the evf comment.
I have seriously considered the RX100 route. Appreciate the warning about the lens rabbit hole but it’s one of several rabbit holes ahead of me. I intend to tread carefully … The cost of entry similar.
The comments made on software for RAW/RAF from all here obviously v useful - thanks - will return when I’m ready to explore that warren 
No more faffiing around - I've bought the s/h Fujifilm X-T2. local store offered to order it for me from their branch in Norwich to have in hand before committing, but there is a 45 handback deal anyway. And I had already handled the sales consultant's own X-T5. Added the pancake lens as is and an extra battery @ £18 offer.
So now hoping to be up and running for weekend use - excited
Thanks to all who commented.
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Congrats on your choice of camera. I have an XT3 that I’ve been shooting exclusively with for a few years now.No more affixing around - I've bought the s/h Fujifilm X-T2. local store offered to order it for me from their branch in Norwich to have in hand before committing, but there is a 45 handback deal anyway. And I had already handled the sales consultant's own X-T5. Added the pancake lens as is and an extra battery @ £18 offer.
So now hoping to be up and running for weekend use - excited
Thanks to all who commented.
Its a great system!
Congratulations!No more affixing around - I've bought the s/h Fujifilm X-T2. local store offered to order it for me from their branch in Norwich to have in hand before committing, but there is a 45 handback deal anyway. And I had already handled the sales consultant's own X-T5. Added the pancake lens as is and an extra battery @ £18 offer.
So now hoping to be up and running for weekend use - excited
Thanks to all who commented.
If you'd like additional support on your Fuji climb, there's a Fuji subforum over at Cameraderie where many Fuji-X.com refugees have landed. You can learn a good deal from observing what's going on, or just ask a question and I'm sure you'll get help. The other bonus is the EXIF is below each photo, so you can start seeing what settings folks are using for their exposures.
so exciting!No more faffiing around - I've bought the s/h Fujifilm X-T2. local store offered to order it for me from their branch in Norwich to have in hand before committing, but there is a 45 handback deal anyway. And I had already handled the sales consultant's own X-T5. Added the pancake lens as is and an extra battery @ £18 offer.
So now hoping to be up and running for weekend use - excited
Thanks to all who commented.
I've not used one of the current X-trans sensor Fujis(I've looked at them more than once) but love the now ancient Super CCD in the Finepix DSLRs(especially the S5-and in fact I was just playing with mine a couple of days ago).
Fuji has always kind of thought outside the box on how to put their own twist on "conventional" sensors and get their own unique properties out of them.
The SuperCCD does two odd things-each photosite contains two pixels(called the "r pixel" and "s pixel") with different sensitivities, something intended to improve the sometimes limited DR of CCD sensors. They are also arranged in a "honeycomb" pattern. The Super CCDs may be a bit dated now, but they give results unlike anything else and are very film-like especially in their highlight roll-off(something that was a big deal in the mid-2000s when each channel would often clip differently and abruptly so you'd get ugly banding).
The X-trans has its own look and I rather like it even though I don't use it, but the layout does give some software trouble. If it amounts to anything, Lightroom handles SuperCCD images just fine...
Fuji has always kind of thought outside the box on how to put their own twist on "conventional" sensors and get their own unique properties out of them.
The SuperCCD does two odd things-each photosite contains two pixels(called the "r pixel" and "s pixel") with different sensitivities, something intended to improve the sometimes limited DR of CCD sensors. They are also arranged in a "honeycomb" pattern. The Super CCDs may be a bit dated now, but they give results unlike anything else and are very film-like especially in their highlight roll-off(something that was a big deal in the mid-2000s when each channel would often clip differently and abruptly so you'd get ugly banding).
The X-trans has its own look and I rather like it even though I don't use it, but the layout does give some software trouble. If it amounts to anything, Lightroom handles SuperCCD images just fine...
OK, this boy still asking questions ... on SD card choices
A quick look around suggests that I could buy two of the following:
SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro SDXC having 200MB/s
Put both in and then choose from
a) write to both - prob overkill
b) write to slot 1 and overspill to slot 2
c) write jpg to 1 and RAW to 2 - not needed yet but prob will
d) ? write stills to 1 and video to 2 - is that a thing?
A quick look around suggests that I could buy two of the following:
SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro SDXC having 200MB/s
Put both in and then choose from
a) write to both - prob overkill
b) write to slot 1 and overspill to slot 2
c) write jpg to 1 and RAW to 2 - not needed yet but prob will
d) ? write stills to 1 and video to 2 - is that a thing?
Everyone's needs are different, but for the cameras I have that have two card slots, I just use the second as overflow (not backup)...I don't shoot clients and in 15 years I've never had a card or slot go bad (okay, once I had an image or two corrupted, but I just threw that card away). Way back when we all only had one card slot and we all managed then.
However, I have had more instances than I can count of forgetting to put my card back in the camera, so having the second card open has saved me more than once.
You'll just have to assess where your priorities are and go from there; we are all paranoid about different things. 🙂
However, I have had more instances than I can count of forgetting to put my card back in the camera, so having the second card open has saved me more than once.
You'll just have to assess where your priorities are and go from there; we are all paranoid about different things. 🙂
Do you mean size wise? I pick the largest card that is reasonably priced. My most recent card for the X100V is 256GB and it was only like $70 (Lexar). I think I can get over 4,000 image on that card, and I will use it when we travel, so I like having that space, rather than worrying about taking and swapping cards on vacations - which I have done in the past, but I prefer keeping everything in camera if possible.
When I got my GFX last year I got two 128 Sandisk cards (so obviously 256 total) and they were $60 for the both of them. The GFX is also 50MP so much larger file sizes. My Nikon cards are 64GB because when I got those cameras, card prices were more expensive.
I don't really pay attention too much to the write speed for either of my Fujis as the GFX is a slow camera to start with and I'm not shooting burst mode. The X100V is just a daily knock around camera and nothing fast paced. My Nikons get the workload with shooting sports - I typically take 300-400 images at a single lacrosse game.
For the stuff that you have indicated you wish to shoot, I don't think you need a super high performance card as long as the read/write speed is relatively decent. Again, years ago we were shooting sports on much slower cards and we all survived.
Fuji typically posts a compatibility chart with which cards they recommend for their cameras, so I would look at that first and go from there. Like I'm pretty sure I can't use a 256 card in the GFX for some reason.
FWIW Every one of my camera cases has a little pocket where I keep a spare card. The Lumix also caries a spare battery. Could do that spare battery bit with the little Fuji Waterproof, but the new Oly battery is too big to fit the old case.
Congratulations! You'll have a fun weekend! Very pleased for you!No more faffiing around - I've bought the s/h Fujifilm X-T2. local store offered to order it for me from their branch in Norwich to have in hand before committing, but there is a 45 handback deal anyway. And I had already handled the sales consultant's own X-T5. Added the pancake lens as is and an extra battery @ £18 offer.
So now hoping to be up and running for weekend use - excited
Thanks to all who commented.
I just have a 64gb card for RAW in slot 1 and 32GB for JPG in slot 2. We’re talking 1700 photo capacity, which I’m never going to fill before offloading to PC.
I would also agree that write speed isn’t the end of the world, and even occasional burst shooting isn’t a problem. The camera has a buffer and will write in the background. For stills, you just won’t notice on something in the 20-30MP range. I imagine 50-100MP cameras it might matter more.
I would also agree that write speed isn’t the end of the world, and even occasional burst shooting isn’t a problem. The camera has a buffer and will write in the background. For stills, you just won’t notice on something in the 20-30MP range. I imagine 50-100MP cameras it might matter more.
I use my two slots in my cameras as described in your option b: writing to slot 1, automatically rolling over consecutively to slot 2. Been doing that for a number of years. Both cards are formatted to RAW Uncompressed.
No idea of whether or not one can use the slots as one for stills and the other for video. Somehow I doubt it., though. The printed manual if you'll be getting one with the camera, should tell you that, or you could consult the manual online. People do use RAW in one slot and jpg in the second slot, but I've never done that.
Definitely check compatibility of brands and capacities of any SD cards you are considering purchasing, as not all cameras are compatible with all capacities. Older cameras are less likely to be able to use newer, super-fast, super-capacity memory cards. Also, don't buy a bargain, unknown brand -- stick with the known brands: Lexar, SanDisk, Sony, etc. Buy them in the camera shop, too, not through Amazon Marketplace or eBay online, as there have been issues with people selling and buying counterfeit cards.
As for capacity of cards: I shoot macros and I shoot wildlife -- two different types of shooting. I primarily use 64 GB CFE cards in the A7R V, as that camera is the one I shoot most frequently for macro and I'm not likely to even fill one card, let alone both. That second card is in there just in case I neglect to put the first memory card back in there after having transferred the images to the computer. It can happen from time to time!
. Oh -- Don't forget to pick up an SD memory card reader, too, when choosing your cards. Much better all the way around than fiddling with cables and plugging the camera into the computer, etc.The A1, on the other hand, is loaded with two 128 GB CFE cards since that's the camera I use when shooting wildlife and action, using Continuous High (burst mode) and I have been known to fill up both cards or come close to it. I also always carry a spare memory card or two along with a spare battery in a small pouch that slips into my pocket, even when just walking around the lake.
My other cameras use SD cards, and again those are formatted in RAW. Those cameras each have just one memory card slot so again when using one of them I always make sure I've got a spare with me.
Speaking of formatting: always format the memory cards in the camera, not in your computer!
In the beginning, it's all going to be so exciting and also probably a bit frustrating -- be prepared for that! It takes a little time to learn one's way around a new camera and its menu system, but we all go through that necessary learning curve. Since you're getting a Fuji, which bristles with buttons and dials and wheels, you probably won't need to do much menu-diving once you've got things set up the way which works for you.
This is going to be an exciting weekend for you!
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Yes, the Sony RX100 series but especially the M VII (current model) is much better than current iPhones, for the simple reason that the user has much more control over the images, and the sensor is larger, which provides more detail in images. It's an excellent camera for travel as well as for carrying with one every day if desired.