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Thanks! Did the shop propose Samsung blades? Everybody writes Sintech is the way to go - did they say why Sintech was not their choice?
Important question to all about Sierra: Will the adapters and blades work with it?
Last but not least: Maybe someone could confirm Crucial P3 / 4TB working with an adapter in an 2017 18,3 Imac.
AFAIK only one user successfully put it into his 2019 Imac, another warned of it. BTW, the boot recovery is on the original blade SSD, correct? Mine is only 32gb as far as I remember.
 
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Thanks! Did the shop propose Samsung blades? Everybody writes Sintech is the way to go - did they say why Sintech was not their choice?
Important question to all about Sierra: Will the adapters and blades work with it?
Last but not least: Maybe someone could confirm Crucial P3 / 4TB working with an adapter in an 2017 18,3 Imac.
AFAIK only one user successfully put it into his 2019 Imac, another warned of it. BTW, the boot recovery is on the original blade SSD, correct? Mine is only 32gb as far as I remember.
HI

Here in Brazil Samsung Blades are more expensive than Kingston ones. Also the need to update the firmware (970pro and 980 pro) if it's a older stock one didn't feel good to me.

Don´t know about Sierra.. I´m using ventura.

There are forum posts here and on LTT with people that used Crucial P3 and P5 with success.

The boot recover is on the UEFI BIOS, just hit command + R on the startup and enter your network credentials and it will download everything.
 
I would go for a Crucial P3 4TB M.2 PCIe Gen3 NVMe (CT4000P3SSD8).
Can anyone confirm that it works? Or should I stick with el.rafars 1tB version?
You'll be fine up to 4TB with the NVMe 3 x4. The 4 x4 version should work but it's a waste of money since your iMac has a PCIe 3 bus.
I've seen several dozens iMacs with broken glasses or even damage LCD panels because of this SSD upgrade process.
I'm sorry but I don't believe you. One or two people not being patient and trying to force the panel off before it was ready is possible—keep working through the tape and this cannot happen. Someone not using the right tape on reassembly causing the screen to fall off is possible but several dozens? No. I've done hundreds of these.

So partitioning into APFS (Current OS) and HFS+ (Sierra) will work on an SSD?
No. APFS is your only choice. High Sierra is the minimum MacOS you can use when booting from an NVMe blade. Do not partition. Learn how to create Volumes instead — far better and there is plenty of info on that from Apple. You will need to boot from a High Sierra or later external to install the MacOS after install. Apple has instructions for making one from an 8GB thumb drive. You may need to use Terminal to reset your clock before the first OS install but this will fix itself when you reboot.
The big adapter was not recommended by the shop that I took my iMac.
Correct. It interferes with the cooling and will cause interference with the speaker that you'll need to loosen to slide the small adapter in, then re-tighten but no need to remove.
changing the motherboard battery just in case.
Absolutely. The original is now 6 years old. A CR2032 battery is fine once you get rid of the HDD. No need for the high-heat BR2032
 
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High Sierra is the minimum MacOS you can use when booting from an NVMe blade. Do not partition. Learn how to create Volumes instead — far better and there is plenty of info on that from Apple. You will need to boot from a High Sierra or later external to install the MacOS after install.
I remember going through the process creating volumes about 2 years agowhen I tried APFS with a newer OS, not knowing it slows platter drives dramatically. This is why I had to go back to Mojave as the most recent OS. If Apple had cared to support both kinds of drives with newer OS, there would be no need for me to swap the internal 1TB Fusion Drive. Question:
Though I may run my mac with a recent OS and create a volume for Sierra on the Blade SSD, will it boot?

As I will also put in a Samsung 870 EVO SSD into the SATA bay, will a boot into Sierra be possible from there,
I assume again by greating a volume?

You'll be fine up to 4TB with the NVMe 3 x4. The 4 x4 version should work but it's a waste of money since your iMac has a PCIe 3 bus.
I know. But the crucials seem to be the largest SSD to get. So I would like to have a confirmation that someone tried it with success.
But while doing research, I stumbled over new Blade SSDs that run natively without an adapter on a Mac. What's that?
 
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I've already answered your question about the P3. There are 8TB blades out there but you don't have enough space for adequate cooling.

Only the mid-2017 iMacs can run Sierra. Late 2017 iMacs must run high sierra or later. Formatting the blade other than APFS is not an option. The last MacOS without a hack is Ventura in both cases.

When booting from the Sierra drive, you will not be able to view files on the blade but you will be able to see the SSD when booted into the blade.

To change from one to the other, first Option Boot. Then change the Startup Drive in System Preferences or you'll need to Option Boot every time.

Unless you have a compelling reason to install Sierra on that SSD, don't install any OS on it and just use it for storage or even Time Machine. You can install an 8TB SSD without a problem.

To enable TRIM on the SSD, run the following in Terminal and enter your Admin password when prompted.

sudo trimforce enable

Yes, you want to do this. TRIM is enabled on the blade when you are booted from it and that cannot be changed nor would you want to.
 
I've already answered your question about the P3.
Did you build in a Crucial 4TB P3 into your Imac?
Only the mid-2017 iMacs can run Sierra.
This is why I bought one in 2018. So booting a Sierra Volume from an NVMe Blade is possible?
Unless you have a compelling reason to install Sierra on that SSD
As I wrote, Final Cut Studio and many, many video and audio plugins. Not outdated at all in 2023, even 4k works.
To change from one to the other, first Option Boot. Then change the Startup Drive in System Preferences or you'll need to Option Boot every time.
Don't get it. Option Boot OR choosing the Startup Disk from System Preferences like before with a partitioned drives does not work? All the best, Frame2023
 
Did anyone who did this upgrade - new Crucial P3 blade SSD in a 2017 iMac - have a problem after upgrade of out-of-control fast fan speed?

I'm mid-install of a 2TB Apple blade to 4TB Crucial (using Sintech adapter). Having completed the upgrade install and reconnected all the boards and cables - except the display - I applied power to the iMac but I get a super-speedy fan.

So, before I glue it together, I'd like to know if I need some additional cable or sensor to manage the fan speed.

Thanks all!
 
I'm sorry but I don't believe you. One or two people not being patient and trying to force the panel off before it was ready is possible—keep working through the tape and this cannot happen. Someone not using the right tape on reassembly causing the screen to fall off is possible but several dozens? No. I've done hundreds of these.

You are a professional for that job.
Others (including the OP and me) are not. Because you can do it without flaws is not the reason anyone else can do it.
The broken glasses are normally the outcome of reckless beginners' work.
I just send my iMac to a repair shop for SSD upgrade. (This is the place where I saw those broken glasses, some got even worse, totally damaged LCD panels)
They break it, they fix it or replace it at no cost for me. It's my fail-safe option. Their price are reasonable, too.
 
Did anyone who did this upgrade - new Crucial P3 blade SSD in a 2017 iMac - have a problem after upgrade of out-of-control fast fan speed? Having completed the upgrade install and reconnected all the boards and cables - except the display - I applied power to the iMac but I get a super-speedy fan.
Looks like the LCD has a heat sensor built in, maybe this is the reason, no signal, fans at full speed as safety measure. See the screen grab sensors Mac Fan control reads out.
I'm mid-install of a 2TB Apple blade to 4TB Crucial (using Sintech adapter).
Could you give me the exact model numbers? Is it CT4000P3SSD8 for the Crucial and ST-NGFF2013C for the Sintech?
 

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Looks like the LCD has a heat sensor built in, maybe this is the reason, no signal, fans at full speed as safety measure. See the screen grab sensors Mac Fan control reads out.

Could you give me the exact model numbers? Is it CT4000P3SSD8 for the Crucial and ST-NGFF2013C for the Sintech?
Try SSD FanControl Software....
Its what I now use since I've installed an 860 Evo in my 2011 iMac.
Fans work perfectly.
 
But while doing research, I stumbled over new Blade SSDs that run natively without an adapter on a Mac. What's that?
A little less expensive than similar blades at OWC. These have the same form and pin-out as the ones Apple uses.

OWC OWC Aura Pro X2

They do not exist in a 4TB version. Apple stopped using that after 2019 and 4TB blades were not in current use yet so no one has made them in the Apple form. The 4TB P3 is $200 on Amazon. The SINTECH Short adapter used to be the only one that worked consistently, but nowadays, all do.

As for the other: You want a spoon-fed ironclad guarantee. No one is going to give you that unless they are providing the parts and doing the installation. If you are good with your hands, follow instructions well, buy a good tool/tape kit and use name parts with a warranty such as the 5 year from Crucial on the P3, you should be successful.

OWC tape and tool kit with thermal sensor

You'll also need a CR2032 battery.

If you cannot accept the fact that many, many others have done this, then please take it to a local tech and have him/her do the work.
 
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So, before I glue it together, I'd like to know if I need some additional cable or sensor to manage the fan speed.
There are many threads about how the heat sensor is not necessary on the 2017 iMac. Believe them or not. I don't care—I use it. Software hacks that require you to control the cooling system manually are not acceptable, IMO.

This kit from OWC includes the sensor and the rest of the necessary tools. You will see options to order the sensor separately.

OWC Tool, Tape and sensor kits for iMac
 
Don't get it. Option Boot OR choosing the Startup Disk from System Preferences like before with a partitioned drives does not work? All the best, Frame2023
I can't explain it better but I'll try.

A non - APFS drive cannot see any files on an APFS volume. Period. If you have both in the same Mac, you must Option-boot into the drive or volume you want. You then select it as your startup drive or it will reboot into the previous drive.

Unless you have an absolutely compelling need for a drive with Sierra on it, do not install it—it can't be installed on the m.2 blade. Leave the 2.5" SSD as additional storage — if you have to have one because you need more than 4TB onboard.
 
Hi there, I also have a 2017 iMac (with 2T fusion drive) that I'm thinking to upgrade with blade SSD. I've got some adhesive strips, opening wheel, a cheap adaptor (the long version) from aliexpress, a blue WD SN570 2T, and a black WD SN770 2T. I've also prepared the usb installer of Monterey.

Right before I was going to open the iMac, I noticed that some adapter sellers have explicitly excluded support of WD SN570 and SN770 in their product description. After I read this threads, even more questions come up:

1) Shall I return the WD SNx70 and switch to something else?
2) Shall I return the long adapter and get the short one instead, how bad it would be if I just use the long one?
3) is insulation tape necessary?
4) if i only upgrade the blade ssd, do i still need the thermal paste?
5) is replacing motherboard battery a must?
 
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A non - APFS drive cannot see any files on an APFS volume. Period. If you have both in the same Mac, you must Option-boot into the drive or volume you want. You then select it as your startup drive or it will reboot into the previous drive.
Ok. So Option-Boot after the upgrade and I will not be able to use the faster SSD Blade as scratch disc i.e. for render files
while running Sierra 10.12.6.
If you cannot accept the fact that many, many others have done this, then please take it to a local tech and have him/her do the work.
This is not the reason. If the newer Macs were as upgradeable as the older ones (without glued parts), threads like this would be shorter. No one wants to mess around with the fragile front glass for testing or even be forced to have the opened IMac lie on its back for days simply because a part does not work and a replacement had to be ordered. Apple had to be forced by the EU to provide spare parts. I also get upset when they taunt their recycled aluminium. On one hand, recycled aluminium is 70% of the world market anyway. On the other hand, if you want to anodize your goods in fancy colors like Apple does, you need fresh aluminium, because the alloy has to be extremely pure to get a good looking surface. Recycled aluminium does not provide that, though it might fulfill the physical parameters. Fresh aluminium must be made from bauxite - this is 80% more energy for the process, beside extremely poisenous chemicals that need to be used to extract the aluminium from the bauxite.
 
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Hi there, I also have a 2017 iMac (with 2T fusion drive) that I'm thinking to upgrade with blade SSD. I've got some adhesive strips, opening wheel, a cheap adaptor (the long version) from aliexpress, a blue WD SN570 2T, and a black WD SN770 2T. I've also prepared the usb installer of Monterey.

Right before I was going to open the iMac, I noticed that some adapter sellers have explicitly excluded support of WD SN570 and SN770 in their product description. After I read this threads, even more questions come up:

1) Shall I return the WD SNx70 and switch to something else?
2) Shall I return the long adapter and get the short one instead, how bad it would be if I just use the long one?
3) is insulation tape necessary?
4) if i only upgrade the blade ssd, do i still need the thermal paste?
5) is replacing motherboard battery a must?
The Adapter is only a electrical connection adapter, no data transformation is done.

The long adapter may not fit, everywhere I looked only the short one is recommended. It also helps with cooling.

No insulation tape is necessary in the whole process.

Thermal paste replacement and battery replacement are "good things to do" because opening an iMac is not a trivial thing. Remember that battery and paste have more than 6 years by now...
 
The Adapter is only a electrical connection adapter, no data transformation is done.

The long adapter may not fit, everywhere I looked only the short one is recommended. It also helps with cooling.

No insulation tape is necessary in the whole process.

Thermal paste replacement and battery replacement are "good things to do" because opening an iMac is not a trivial thing. Remember that battery and paste have more than 6 years by now...

Thank you so much for the answer @el.rafar, that's helpful.

Now I remember that I do have alot spare CR2032 available, bought for other purposes months ago.

The long adapter was bought after I read somewhere else someone saying he got a better results with longer one (but I forgot where I read it exactly), I hope both would work.

So I guess I am set to open it now, finger crossed!
 
Reporting back that on my 2017 iMac18,3 there was no need for sensor cable, nor for Fan control software after simply swapping out the Apple 2TB for a Crucial 4T replacement blade.

The long Sintech adapter, and even a thin heatsink fit easily on the logic board. Be sure to snap the blade into the adapter, and the adapter into the board. They press in with a click (more deeply than you might assume).

I installed the
- Crucial P3 4TB CT4000P3SSD8 - $199 AMZN
- Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card "for Upgrade 2013-2015 Year Macs(Not Fit Early 2013 MacBook Pro)" $14 AMZN
- OWC kit for disassembly and adhesive strips - also ordered from AMZN
(I also added a copper heatsink to the Crucial, $7 from AMZN. amazon com/gp/product/B07QNRP9HK
"SGTKJSJS M.2 Heatsink Copper, m2 pcie NVMe Laptop PS5 Heatsink Copper,with Silicone Thermal Pad, for M.2 2280 SSD Laptop")

Thank you for the earlier replies!

My concern was that I was having a runaway fan in testing with power before sealing it up. Based on the reply above that there's a temp sensor on the LCD panel I assume that my failure to reconnect the display cables led to that problem. Once I connected everything the fan was well behaved and has been controlled correctly by MacOS.

So, again thanks to those who commented earlier.

This 4TB upgrade gives my iMac another few years of useful life on my desk.
 
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The Adapter is only a electrical connection adapter, no data transformation is done.
Whoa, now this is really useful information! But why the heck do they designate the adapters to certain models?
Pin configuration?
 
A quick update, installed the Monterey, tested the speed, W/R=2668MB/2802MB, much better than the original one W/R=~560MB/~2100MB.

I'm doing some final test before applying the tapes.
 
All done! My original iMac 2017 27'', 2T+128G fusion drive, GPU R-580, CPU i5. I upgraded it by only swapping the fusion drive with 2T blade drive SN570.

What I did:
- Removed 2T HDD + 128G SSD
- Installed WD SN570 + long adapter (cheap one from aliexpress, more than enough space to install long adapter)
- Replaced BR2032 with a new CR2032
- Applied cheap adhesive strips (not perfectly aligned but should be ok, from aliexpress)
- Installed Monterey using a usb stick

What I use:
- cheap open kit
- screwdriver set for phone repairing

What I didn't use:
- thermal paste
- insulation tape
- heat sink
- heat sensor

Overall cost: ~US$110
Time cost: ~4.5 hrs
- disassemble (1.5h), ssd replacement, CR2032 replacement, partial assemble for test (0.5h), os installation & test (1.5h), re-assemble & final-test(1h)

Now my old iMac can boot in ~8s, the ssd speed:
Screen Shot 2023-06-29 at 7.19.48 PM.png


I'm really happy about this result! Hope this could be a reference to others. Thanks all you guys!
 
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Whoa, now this is really useful information! But why the heck do they designate the adapters to certain models?
Pin configuration?
The long adapter was the first but it brings nothing to the table. It blocks cooling to the back of the blade and, on some Macs (including the Mac Pro 6.1 and certain laptops), can cause it to overheat — so don't use it. The short one does the exact same job. Both add length and change the pin-out so that an m.2 will fit in place of the Apple AHCI (used 2013–2016 in the iMac) and NVMe (2017–2019) blades. That's all they do so go with the one that lets air flow over both sides of the blade. Some year iMacs have tighter spaces than others.

Performance increase depends on the year. Everything's a lot faster than the 2.5" HDDs and SSD replacements. The 2013–2014 have a 2 Lane bus—expect about 3x speed over an AHCI blade. Those built 2015–2016 have a 4 Lane bus but also used an AHCI blade—expect nearly 6x increase.

The 2017—2019 have a tiny NVMe 3 x4 blade controlling the Fusion — performance will depend on many factors. Bootup is already damned fast but large data transfers are sloooooooow. If you have an SSD only Mac from those years, you will see no speed increase ar all but you can increase data storage capacity going to a larger blade. Apple topped out at 2TB but you can go to 4 using a P3 or half a dozen others on the market.

Those contemplating installing an NVMe blade into a 2013–2014 iMac must look up and run a Terminal Command that disables Deep Sleep. Not an issue from 2015 on.

The 2020 27" iMac uses NVMe NAND but the controller is on the T2 chip. Apple is the only source for upgrade kits for these and it's the same ones used by the Mac Pro 7.1 and the iMac Pro. An 8TB kit costs just under $2,800 which is why I never upgraded my 2020 iMac or iMac Pro. Less expensive to buy a Studio or M2 Pro Mini with 8TB onboard and sell my iMac Pro.
Mac Pro 1–8TB Storage Kits
 
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The long adapter was the first but it brings nothing to the table. It blocks cooling to the back of the blade and, on some Macs (including the Mac Pro 6.1 and certain laptops), can cause it to overheat — so don't use it. The short one does the exact same job. Both add length and change the pin-out so that an m.2 will fit in place of the Apple AHCI (used 2013–2016 in the iMac) and NVMe (2017–2019) blades. That's all they do so go with the one that lets air flow over both sides of the blade. Some year iMacs have tighter spaces than others.
Alredy bought a long one - they are completely passive, correct? So I would simply take a saw and cut it...?
 
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