I'll have to try this because viewing online video causes the fans on my Core 2 Duo, i5 and even i7 machines to make a good attempt to rival the "wind tunnel" of my Quicksilver.
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What have you done with an early Intel recently?
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I'll have to try this because viewing online video causes the fans on my Core 2 Duo, i5 and even i7 machines to make a good attempt to rival the "wind tunnel" of my Quicksilver.
BTW, I was quite wondered when installed MacsFanControl on my A1342 macbook. Never even imagined that it's highest speed is far higher than 3K RPMs as I supposed 
(I new Apple installs high-rpm fans, as in my Quad, but this surprised me). Tuned up it a bit, full throttle at 55 degrees (Celsius). Let it cool more than keep itself quiet & hot.
(I new Apple installs high-rpm fans, as in my Quad, but this surprised me). Tuned up it a bit, full throttle at 55 degrees (Celsius). Let it cool more than keep itself quiet & hot.If the readings are correct, the tiny fan in a 1.5 GHz 12” PowerBook can do 9,000 RPM.Never even imagined that it's highest speed is far higher than 3K RPMs as I supposed
Sometime ago I've watched youtube video. There was around 14 (!) fans in MacsFancontrol (or similar software), highest RPM was around 6200, if memory serves me well.
Used my 2007 17” MacBook Pro + NVIDIA NVS 510 + Delock 62735 to test the limits of my Dell P2415Q’s HDMI 1.4 port…
339.3 MHz pixel clock — good enough for 39.344 Hz refresh at “4K” using CVT-RBv2 timings. That’s just about bearable.
Higher pixel clocks make it black out.
339.3 MHz pixel clock — good enough for 39.344 Hz refresh at “4K” using CVT-RBv2 timings. That’s just about bearable.
Higher pixel clocks make it black out.
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Max pixel clock for 8bpc RGB for HDMI 1.4 is 340 MHz so that makes sense.
RGB or 4:4:4 is the way to go for text clarity. For higher refresh rate 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 may be options. macOS driver doesn't allow selecting manually 4:2:2 or 4:2:0. What about Windows driver?
HDMI 1.4 (and DisplayPort 1.2) should support 4:2:2 so you could use a pixel clock up to 510 MHz with 8bpc 4:2:2 in that case.
8bpc 4:2:0 would allow you 4K60. wikipedia.org says "Although HDMI 1.4 does not officially allow 4:2:0 chroma subsampling, NVIDIA and AMD have added 4:2:0 support to their HDMI 1.4 graphics cards via driver updates"
Actually, NVS 510 doesn't have HDMI ports and is limited to DisplayPort 1.2 so maybe 4:2:0 is not an option. Does NVS 510 support DisplayPort Dual Mode? In that case, a passive adapter could be used to bypass the limits of the active Delock adapter.
Does your Dell P2415Q have the HDMI 2.0 option enabled? My P2415Q does. I can disable and enable. I'm not sure if this also enables 4:2:0.
https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/...itors-with-hdmi-2-0-that-support-4k-x-2k-60hz
Yep.
Mine was manufactured in January 2015 according to the EDID and doesn’t have HDMI 2.0.
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Mine says week 35 of 2016. So you didn't get the HDMI menu by selecting the HDMI mode, then holding down the √ button?
Yesterday I spent about an hour to replace the thermal paste on my 15 year old iMac. It had never been replaced and the final straw was the fact that the fans were ramping their speed up to 5000rpm way too frequently. (that only started this year). I know my way around inside this Mac, but I've never been this deep. The iFixit guide didn't help because it was obviously for a different motherboard design as nearly all connectors were in a different spot
Luckily it's just a matter of unplugging everything and remembering which screws go where. Now it runs wayyy cooler too and the fans haven't had the need to go past 1200rpm yet
I recommend everyone to do this if you dare at least
Luckily it's just a matter of unplugging everything and remembering which screws go where. Now it runs wayyy cooler too and the fans haven't had the need to go past 1200rpm yet
I recommend everyone to do this if you dare at least
I did this on my MacBook4,1 but haven’t needed it (yet) on my MacBook5,1, MacBookPro5,5, or my iMac11,3.Yesterday I spent about an hour to replace the thermal paste on my 15 year old iMac. It had never been replaced and the final straw was the fact that the fans were ramping their speed up to 5000rpm way too frequently. (that only started this year). I know my way around inside this Mac, but I've never been this deep. The iFixit guide didn't help because it was obviously for a different motherboard design as nearly all connectors were in a different spot
Luckily it's just a matter of unplugging everything and remembering which screws go where. Now it runs wayyy cooler too and the fans haven't had the need to go past 1200rpm yet
I recommend everyone to do this if you dare at least
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Yesterday I spent about an hour to replace the thermal paste on my 15 year old iMac. It had never been replaced and the final straw was the fact that the fans were ramping their speed up to 5000rpm way too frequently. (that only started this year). I know my way around inside this Mac, but I've never been this deep. The iFixit guide didn't help because it was obviously for a different motherboard design as nearly all connectors were in a different spot
Luckily it's just a matter of unplugging everything and remembering which screws go where. Now it runs wayyy cooler too and the fans haven't had the need to go past 1200rpm yet
I recommend everyone to do this if you dare at least
It’s sage advice. And a good, but not extreme paste is always handy to have. (“Extreme” here would be the metallic pastes which are both tricky to work with and also the province of hardcore overclockers.)
With every computer I acquire, cleaning out the inside of past dust and grime, and re-pasting the CPU and GPU is one of the first things I do. The sole exception so far: a 2013 iMac, for which the act of opening it means buying a new adhesive kit. On that, I’m waiting for when I also upgrade the CPU, RAM, SSD and add in NVMe — best to do it all in one fell swoop.
I’ve been using the same syringe of Arctic Silver for over a decade, meaning I use it infrequent enough that it has lasted this long.
It’s not hard to work with at all.
Which reminds me. I should probably get a new tube. We are not supposed to keep it that long. Then again, it looks perfectly fine in the tube.
About a decade ago, the first paste I ever used was Arctic Silver. It was good. These days, I’m on my second tube of Noctua NT-H2, which I’ve found to be both easier to work with and also which lacks a need for a settling in time for it to do its thing.
Moved @bobesch's 2008 MacBook Pro behind the 30" Cinema display. Gives me more room and does not block the monitor. Screensharing and BT keyboard/mouse are being used while it's in clamshell mode.
I know this Mac isn't really an Early Intel but in the age of M1 its old af anyways and it only has TB1 which is also old af. I can remove this post if needed if the newness offends anyone. I bought a Late 2013 iMac at the GoodWill Electronics store. (I love that store..) When I bought the Mid 2011 iMac I had bought a couple different solutions for TB booting, one of them was a WD Passport TB raid enclosure which is a weird little device with 2 sata slots inside. I took it apart and put 2 WD Blue 1TB SSD's in it and fired up OCLP and went to Monterey. Pretty neat little machine even if its old. This is my 16th Macintosh now in my collection. I have a Mac addiction I think...
I'm definitely not offended - on the contrary
I assume the two SSDs are running independently, i.e. no RAID? The AJA results seem low for SATA-III over TB1... I've yet to test my Samsung 970 EVO NVMe SSD in a M.2-to-PCIe adapter in an AKiTiO Thunder2 enclosure over TB1, but TB1 can do 1000 MB/s.
Maybe the new definition of "early Intel" should be anything that doesn't officially run the latest version of macOS?
P.S. I had been looking for a 2011-2015 Mac for my daughter since she had said the MacBookPro5,1 with Catalina was too slow for some stuff. In the end, she's staying with that old 2009 MacBook Pro. She likes it, and it doesn't actually concern her that much that her web games don't work on it for now since she perfectly happy to use her iPad Air 2 for that. I'm sure her outlook on this will change in 1-2 years, but in the meantime we can just wait, as that MBP is otherwise working great. Perhaps in 2023 I can buy her a 2017 MacBook Pro or iMac for cheap, or pass down my 2017 MacBook or 2017 iMac. Or I can pass down my 2014 Mac mini I just got yesterday.
P.S. I had been looking for a 2011-2015 Mac for my daughter since she had said the MacBookPro5,1 with Catalina was too slow for some stuff. In the end, she's staying with that old 2009 MacBook Pro. She likes it, and it doesn't actually concern her that much that her web games don't work on it for now since she perfectly happy to use her iPad Air 2 for that. I'm sure her outlook on this will change in 1-2 years, but in the meantime we can just wait, as that MBP is otherwise working great. Perhaps in 2023 I can buy her a 2017 MacBook Pro or iMac for cheap, or pass down my 2017 MacBook or 2017 iMac. Or I can pass down my 2014 Mac mini I just got yesterday.
Yeah its not in a RAID right now, I got the same speeds in a R0 so I just broke the raid. I get about the same from my LaCie TB enclosure too. I think because its bus powered or because it originally it shipped with spinners the controller inside doesn't allow it full TB potential. I don't know, I mulled going USB 3 and getting faster speeds but its working fine and I wanted it to have Trim for everyday use its fast enough. I like that the boot drive and my storage drive are all in 1 enclosure and its a easy solution.I'm definitely not offended - on the contrary
I assume the two SSDs are running independently, i.e. no RAID? The AJA results seem low for SATA-III over TB1... I've yet to test my Samsung 970 EVO NVMe SSD in a M.2-to-PCIe adapter in an AKiTiO Thunder2 enclosure over TB1, but TB1 can do 1000 MB/s.