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mtbdudex

macrumors 68030
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Aw.... mtbdudex, sorry that the Canon RF 16mm f/2.8 STM lens is so disappointing and that you're not at all happy with it after you tried it on your camera. That kind of situation really sucks, doesn't it? Are there any other lenses within that general range that you could try out?

Assuming this is still not just a Canon-only thread, I'm poking my head in here in the first place to agree that shooting in wide-angle is a whole other world of its own. Just recently I bought the new Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM II lens, and so far I've been pretty happy with it but since shooting wide does not come naturally to me I definitely am still needing improvement in my technique when working with wide-angle or ultra wide-angle lenses..... It's challenging! The best way to learn is of course, regardless of brand, to spend some serious time with a given lens!

Hope you have no difficulties in returning this lens and can find something else which will suit your needs, usage and shooting patterns much more satisfactorily.

My post was not worded clearly .. the review was not mine, (I added quotation marks to it just now.)
I did research, and then placed the order .. then did more research and found enough concerning negative reviews I cancelled my order.

I truly wanted to just shoot and play with this lens, but not waste $250 in doing so for so-so results.

I’ll wait till the $2k Canon 10-20 f2.8 L comes in stock and order that, trusting L lens for tack sharp reputation.
 
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Abdichoudxyz

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This is really important for people to understand. The sensor image quality, at least in the new Nikons, still isn't really any better than the DSLRs were. In fact the dynamic range on the Z8 and Z9 regressed versus the D850 at low ISO.
The differences are very slight. Nothing that anyone interested in actual photography rather than cam specs would worry about.
What mirrorless offers is features-- AI based detectors in the focus system, 5 axis VR on some lenses and 3 axis sensor based stabilization on all. Higher frame rates, improved video modes. In-the-viewfinder rendering of your camera settings, and data overlays for things like focus peaking.
These have proven to be very important features for me, and I've never been someone all that interested in bells and whistles. Eye detect AF is amazing; I shoot a lot of events in poor lighting, and this has been a Godsend. Even in good light, I get a higher hit rate of spot on AF with subjects' eyes in portraits. VR is also very helpful indeed, for low-light hand held photography; I never carry a tripod these days. Don't need to. The WYSIWYG viewfinder is also a massive boon.

Again looking at Nikon, I'm less familiar with others, the updated lens mount made it easier to design certain kinds of lenses, so there is some weight and size savings in the mirrorless lenses, and some image quality improvements from the optical design as opposed to the camera sensor.
There have been significant improvements across the board with the new Z-mount lenses. All my new Z- lenses are sharper and deliver better IQ than their (already superb) F-mount equivalents. 'Leica' quality has arrived in a Nikon mount. I'm not sure aobut weight and size savings though; Nikon have mostly gone with optimum lens design over size and weight considerations, so things like the WA and standard primes are actually larger. My new 105mm macro is significantly larger than myF-mount version.

So the mirrorless systems offer benefits, but they're mostly visible in the camera electronics and only very subtly visible in the image quality when you're really paying attention.
I beg to differ. The subtle differences in each area add up to an overall improvement, not only for image quality, but also in overall benefits to the photographic process. My Z6 is pretty much the D600/D750 type replacement, but outperforms the D600 in every area bar ergonomics. Were I buying into a new camera system right now, I wouldn't hesitate with going mirrorless. It's the way forward. And I was a long-time ML sceptic; until the Sony FF cams came out, I didn't take ML seriously at all. In fact I amused myself when reading an old forum post (elsewhere) in a discussion about DSLRs v ML cams. I was adamant that ML wasn't about to suddenly overtake DSLRs, as the technology was still pretty new, ML cams were mostly pretty flawed and lacking, and at that point, only Sony had any full frame ML cams out. And they weren't great compared to many good DLSRs. But that was several years ago. And things have changed. For me, it was when Nikon brought out their new ML range, that I finally decided to consider them. I bought a Z6 a few months after it launched, and I haven't looked back.
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
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A low price point super-wide is going to always start with multiple design-decision disadvantages. Correcting for all of the various kinds of distortion you get with that style of lens within the optical design itself is very expensive to do, so they're going to have to rely on correcting those within the raw converter itself via included profiles (usually within the raw file itself). Also, getting sharpness edge-edge on a super-wide at that price point is also an expensive prospect optically. Often they'll go for some degree of center sharpness and call it a day, worrying less about the corners. This is particularly true wide-open. You'll usually get better sharpness the more you stop down until diffraction starts to kick in around f7.1/f8 (this varies of course).

You'll have better luck at the higher price-point of that 10-20 2.8L, I feel. This is one of those "you get what you pay for" things :).
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
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Denver, Colorado, USA
To me one of the best features of a mirrorless system is the ability to meter off of the sensor rather than some separate mechanical path. Most of what I do is manual focus, so while all of the AF is awesome and useful, it's really this capability that's been the most valuable asset to me. I shoot a lot with a rangefinder system ("mirrorless for 100 years" :D) and being able to control exposure with highlight-weighted metering gives me more control in how I can capture a scene.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors G3
May 3, 2014
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I have purchased a z6 when it comes out, its good but it have limitations in low light and fast action. I bought used D5 with 100k clicks for less than a new z6…the z6 feels like a toy to it..the d5 is now my main camera for everything lol…

I've never talked to anyone who has seriously used a D5 who hasn't absolutely fallen in love with it.

Yes it feels like a solid hunk of metal and I always feel like it's angry with me when I se to single shot mode. Too that point, though, it has one small touch that I wouldn't have thought anything of before using it-I love that when I set it to "Cl" that the frame rate pops up on the small LCD, and I can change it on the fly. On other cameras(even the D4 and D3s, although I've not used the latter in a while) I often compromise and set Cl to 5fps or so, but then rarely use it because so often that "goldilocks" speed for a given situation where you don't want to blast away on high but still find continuous helpful. It's changed the way I operate with the camera so much that I almost always leave it set t Cl.

The biggest selling point to me on the D5, though, is the IQ I get straight out of the camera. I'll pull the files into Lightroom and 90% of them go out without anything other than MAYBE cropping if appropriate. I feel like I'm always tweaking my D850 files. I'll set the two both up with the same picture control settings(which of course can be changed on RAW files, but do impact the initial rendering in RAW processors), shoot them side by side, and see this. The D4 and Df give me much the same.

I had a somewhat high stakes family event yesterday-my MIL had hired a professional Santa to come over to their house for the grandbabies. She had done the same last year. Of course I fall into the unoffical/official photographer role, and took this one as a big enough deal that I haul out strobes and set them up in their living room to get the best I can. I actually tweaked things a bit this year(not to ramble too much, but I also started typing this at 7:00AM here while I was drinking my first cup of coffee, so I'm not fully awake yet :) ) as last year I worked with a single light and couldn't come up with a good way short of using a second power pack that I could run a second light head on the other side of the room, and that was less than ideal as I didn't have great outlet access over there. I have more recently discovered the Quantum Q-Flash, and used that to great effect as my second light.

In any case, last year I did this with my D850. This year, I didn't think twice about using my D5, as it has become my main camera. I had my D4 as a backup, but actually threw an oddball choice in as a 3rd camera. I've been curious about the D3X for a while, and someone actually sent me one, asking me to clean the sensor but encouraging me to keep it for a few weeks and play with it. I had that borrowed D3X set up with a flash(Metz 45CL-4 Digital-my go to these days if I can) and it delivered also.

Granted I get out of camera results as good(but different) with my Fuji X-T5, and there's a lot to like about that including how small it is compared to really any of my Nikon DSLRs.
 
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Abdichoudxyz

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Metz 45CL-4 Digital
Ooh, the Metz hammerheads have to be amongst my own personal most hated bit of photographic kit. But then, my experience was very much soured by using the horrible old things we had in college. Chosen mainly because they were virtually indestructible. And that they had rechargeable battery packs, as using the 6-8 or whatever it was AAs was astronomically expensive. We only had the older manual versions, no TTL, and they were woefully inconsistent in output regardless of what you settings you had. Truly nasty hateful things. I'm so glad I discovered Nikon's Speedlight range. I do hope your experience is somewhat better than mine...

I've never talked to anyone who has seriously used a D5 who hasn't absolutely fallen in love with it.
Nice ergonomics. But so heavy! Solid though. Typcial Nikon build quality. I wouldn't want one to carry around/travel with though. That's why I like the Z6.

A low price point super-wide is going to always start with multiple design-decision disadvantages. Correcting for all of the various kinds of distortion you get with that style of lens within the optical design itself is very expensive to do, so they're going to have to rely on correcting those within the raw converter itself via included profiles (usually within the raw file itself). Also, getting sharpness edge-edge on a super-wide at that price point is also an expensive prospect optically. Often they'll go for some degree of center sharpness and call it a day, worrying less about the corners. This is particularly true wide-open. You'll usually get better sharpness the more you stop down until diffraction starts to kick in around f7.1/f8 (this varies of course).

You'll have better luck at the higher price-point of that 10-20 2.8L, I feel. This is one of those "you get what you pay for" things :).
Canon's own marketing bumph says it's for 'vlogging, filmmaking and travel', so it's aimed mainly at that kind of usage, where ultimate image quality isn't quite so important. It's a relatively 'cheap' lens, wide enough to get a lot in the frame for vlogging etc. Nikon don't do anything quite like that, but they do have a 'cheap' 28mm f2.8 for the Z-mount. It's considered ok by testers rather than brilliant, but ime Nikon haven't made a 'bad' lens. I was a bit narked the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 for the Z-mount was so expensive on release; a lot more than the f1.4 F-mount version even, but I was blown away by the image quality after I'd actually bought one (at an excellent and unrepeated discount!). Nikon seem to have gone with a philosophy more towards image quality with most of their Z-mount lenses, rather than compactness. I think we'll see more 'compact' lenses released now the line-up has matured somewhat.
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
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Ooh, the Metz hammerheads have to be amongst my own personal most hated bit of photographic kit. But then, my experience was very much soured by using the horrible old things we had in college. Chosen mainly because they were virtually indestructible. And that they had rechargeable battery packs, as using the 6-8 or whatever it was AAs was astronomically expensive. We only had the older manual versions, no TTL, and they were woefully inconsistent in output regardless of what you settings you had. Truly nasty hateful things. I'm so glad I discovered Nikon's Speedlight range. I do hope your experience is somewhat better than mine...


Nice ergonomics. But so heavy! Solid though. Typcial Nikon build quality. I wouldn't want one to carry around/travel with though. That's why I like the Z6.


Canon's own marketing bumph says it's for 'vlogging, filmmaking and travel', so it's aimed mainly at that kind of usage, where ultimate image quality isn't quite so important. It's a relatively 'cheap' lens, wide enough to get a lot in the frame for vlogging etc. Nikon don't do anything quite like that, but they do have a 'cheap' 28mm f2.8 for the Z-mount. It's considered ok by testers rather than brilliant, but ime Nikon haven't made a 'bad' lens. I was a bit narked the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 for the Z-mount was so expensive on release; a lot more than the f1.4 F-mount version even, but I was blown away by the image quality after I'd actually bought one (at an excellent and unrepeated discount!). Nikon seem to have gone with a philosophy more towards image quality with most of their Z-mount lenses, rather than compactness. I think we'll see more 'compact' lenses released now the line-up has matured somewhat.
Yep, whenever I decide to take my Nikon kit mirrorless, I'll really be looking forward to the Z-lens lineup. Great stuff.
 

Abdichoudxyz

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To me one of the best features of a mirrorless system is the ability to meter off of the sensor rather than some separate mechanical path. Most of what I do is manual focus, so while all of the AF is awesome and useful, it's really this capability that's been the most valuable asset to me. I shoot a lot with a rangefinder system ("mirrorless for 100 years" :D) and being able to control exposure with highlight-weighted metering gives me more control in how I can capture a scene.
Tbh, as a Nikon user for 30 years now, I've always found that aspect of the cameras to be pretty much spot-on, all the time. My old FM2 had simple centre-weighted metering that I found to be more accurate than an F3. My later SLRs had ever more sophisticated metering patterns, and also excellent. Metering isn't something I ever worry about when using Nikon cameras. As for rangefinders; I've tried them, didn't get on with them. Too much focussing inaccuracy for my liking. Anachronistic and redundant for the kind of pictures I want to take. Far too slow as well. And in the case of Leica; way, way too expensive. So it's very pleasing that the new Nikkor Z-mount offerings are delivering that level of performance, but at a relative fraction of the cost. But that said; in the 'real world' of just taking photos, DSLRs still rock; you can use something like a 135mm f2 DC, and that's a gorgeous and unique lens. Then there's the PC-Nikkors; brilliant at what they do. So a DSLR is still more than viable.

Yep, whenever I decide to take my Nikon kit mirrorless, I'll really be looking forward to the Z-lens lineup. Great stuff.
You won't look back. Nikon's first ML offerings were a great success, so the future'svery bright indeed. I did look at Sony andCanon; Sony of course had the more mature system, but I don't get on with the ergonomics of their cameras. Canon's first ML cams had no IBIS, lens only, so that was a major negative for me. IBIS allows IS with ancient manual focus lenses, so better low light shooting can be achieved. Down to 1/15" or perhaps even lower, with acceptable results. Especially useful with longer lenses. I can shoot at events with say a 70-200, and not worry about keeping the shutter speed up. That, to me, is a massive massive development of modern cams. I only owned a couple of VR lenses prior to buying the Z6, so to now have VR on all my lenses is a real boon.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors G3
May 3, 2014
8,352
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Kentucky
Ooh, the Metz hammerheads have to be amongst my own personal most hated bit of photographic kit. But then, my experience was very much soured by using the horrible old things we had in college. Chosen mainly because they were virtually indestructible. And that they had rechargeable battery packs, as using the 6-8 or whatever it was AAs was astronomically expensive. We only had the older manual versions, no TTL, and they were woefully inconsistent in output regardless of what you settings you had. Truly nasty hateful things. I'm so glad I discovered Nikon's Speedlight range. I do hope your experience is somewhat better than mine...

I know they can be polarizing. The 60 series flashes are bulky when you throw the shoulder pack into them.

I've found plain old auto mode(where you set an aperture on the flash, set the same on the camera, and the sensor on the front of the flash quenches the output when it senses "enough" light( even on the original 45 CT-1 and 60 CT-1 to be amazingly consistent, though. Auto flash, or "Auto Thyristor" in general works well whether it's on a Vivtar 283 or Nikon SB-800, but the Metz flashes also have a great implementation of it and I've found the results very consistent.

The CL-4 Digital was the last hurrah for the 45 series flashes, and with the correct adapters it gives you full iTTL on Nikon DSLRs(and ETTL on Canon). Officially some of the adapters I have isn't supposed to work with anything newer than the D3/D300 era cameras, but I have zero issues with them on my D850 or D5. I'd be curious to try one on a Z camera.

BTW, I use nothing but the rechargeable packs. I have a handful of NiMH packs and a bunch of NiCd packs. I've rebuilt several NiCd packs(a bit fiddly just because of how they go together, and that's coming from someone has made something of a hobby of rebuilding camera battery packs) but it's also surprising how many 20+ year olds I find that are still within spec. The AA basket(takes 6 AA alkaline batteries) is super slow to recharge-something like 15 seconds. Metz specced the NiCd/NiMH packs at 7 seconds, but I find good ones will do more like 6 seconds. Of course if you're so inclined, the Metz P76 pack will do one in 3 seconds and most models of Quantum Turbo will recycle one in 1.5 seconds. If that's still not fast enough, the Lumedyne Megacycler wlll cut it down to 1 second, but I don't like feeling like I'm carrying an 80s cell phone on my belt :)(and the inverter in the one I have sounds like a sick cat, where the Quantums are dead silent).
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
2,210
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Denver, Colorado, USA
Tbh, as a Nikon user for 30 years now, I've always found that aspect of the cameras to be pretty much spot-on, all the time. My old FM2 had simple centre-weighted metering that I found to be more accurate than an F3. My later SLRs had ever more sophisticated metering patterns, and also excellent. Metering isn't something I ever worry about when using Nikon cameras. As for rangefinders; I've tried them, didn't get on with them. Too much focussing inaccuracy for my liking. Anachronistic and redundant for the kind of pictures I want to take. Far too slow as well. And in the case of Leica; way, way too expensive. So it's very pleasing that the new Nikkor Z-mount offerings are delivering that level of performance, but at a relative fraction of the cost. But that said; in the 'real world' of just taking photos, DSLRs still rock; you can use something like a 135mm f2 DC, and that's a gorgeous and unique lens. Then there's the PC-Nikkors; brilliant at what they do. So a DSLR is still more than viable.


You won't look back. Nikon's first ML offerings were a great success, so the future'svery bright indeed. I did look at Sony andCanon; Sony of course had the more mature system, but I don't get on with the ergonomics of their cameras. Canon's first ML cams had no IBIS, lens only, so that was a major negative for me. IBIS allows IS with ancient manual focus lenses, so better low light shooting can be achieved. Down to 1/15" or perhaps even lower, with acceptable results. Especially useful with longer lenses. I can shoot at events with say a 70-200, and not worry about keeping the shutter speed up. That, to me, is a massive massive development of modern cams. I only owned a couple of VR lenses prior to buying the Z6, so to now have VR on all my lenses is a real boon.
Yes, the rangefinders do take some effort and practice and they are certainly anachronistic but I personally find them a lot of fun. I will certainly never spend any amount of time trying to convince people to use them and I stay away from those sorts of discussions anyway, as what we shoot with is 100% personal. Hopefully we all use what we enjoy. Very few people will ever be able to look at an image and say what camera or lens it was shot with.

I find I personally shoot differently with a rangefinder out of necessity and will walk away with a different take on a scene than I might otherwise. Neither here-nor-there, and that doesn't mean that I couldn't shoot something similar with another standard camera (I can and do), it's just that I start from a different frame of reference. Sometimes I find that a good thing.:)

For what I tend to shoot - architecture, some street/travel and plenty of landscape, IBIS and Eye/Animal/etc AF are less critical for me. The systems I use for those are indeed very anachronistic (including the RF in there). When I do photograph birds or other animals on my dSLR, right now it's still holding its own but can definitely see the benefit of using (in my case) the Z system.
 

Abdichoudxyz

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I know they can be polarizing. The 60 series flashes are bulky when you throw the shoulder pack into them.

I've found plain old auto mode(where you set an aperture on the flash, set the same on the camera, and the sensor on the front of the flash quenches the output when it senses "enough" light( even on the original 45 CT-1 and 60 CT-1 to be amazingly consistent, though. Auto flash, or "Auto Thyristor" in general works well whether it's on a Vivtar 283 or Nikon SB-800, but the Metz flashes also have a great implementation of it and I've found the results very consistent.
Ah yes, it was the 45CT series we used. Horrible things. Loads of power, overkill really. Paps loved them because you could flood an entire foyer in light if shooting celebs at red carpet events. But the new breed of Speedlights from Nikon quickly became more popular; they actually worked for one. And offered AF assistance too. But Nikon managed to suss TTL flash like Canon had with AF. Perefect exposure every single time, rather than the lottery of a Metz. I'm sure later models improved, but I'd moved on by then. The Vivitar 283/285s were probably the best non-TTL flashguns of that era, and were very reliable. But the SB-24 was literally brilliant. As has been every TTL flash Nikon has produced since.

The CL-4 Digital was the last hurrah for the 45 series flashes, and with the correct adapters it gives you full iTTL on Nikon DSLRs(and ETTL on Canon). Officially some of the adapters I have isn't supposed to work with anything newer than the D3/D300 era cameras, but I have zero issues with them on my D850 or D5. I'd be curious to try one on a Z camera.
I can't imagine why it won't work. iTTL is the same on every cam that supports it. I have found some more recent 3rd party flashes to be problematic, but I think that's down to poor QC more than anything else. For this reason, I stick to Nikon flashguns.

BTW, I use nothing but the rechargeable packs. I have a handful of NiMH packs and a bunch of NiCd packs. I've rebuilt several NiCd packs(a bit fiddly just because of how they go together, and that's coming from someone has made something of a hobby of rebuilding camera battery packs) but it's also surprising how many 20+ year olds I find that are still within spec. The AA basket(takes 6 AA alkaline batteries) is super slow to recharge-something like 15 seconds. Metz specced the NiCd/NiMH packs at 7 seconds, but I find good ones will do more like 6 seconds. Of course if you're so inclined, the Metz P76 pack will do one in 3 seconds and most models of Quantum Turbo will recycle one in 1.5 seconds. If that's still not fast enough, the Lumedyne Megacycler wlll cut it down to 1 second, but I don't like feeling like I'm carrying an 80s cell phone on my belt :)(and the inverter in the one I have sounds like a sick cat, where the Quantums are dead silent).
Lumedyne! Norman!!! o_O

NiCd and even NiMH batteries are more or less obsolete tech now though. Li-Ion is far better in terms of the high drain required by powerful flash guns. I just use easily available rechargeable; they offer decent run time and are light enough to carry a couple of spare sets. Tbh theMetz guns were way overkill for my needs, and the batteries would be drained too quickly by the gun choosing to use more power than was necessary. As for those Quantum packs; tried a set once, never again. So glad that modern tech has moved on so much.
 
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Abdichoudxyz

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Yes, the rangefinders do take some effort and practice and they are certainly anachronistic but I personally find them a lot of fun. I will certainly never spend any amount of time trying to convince people to use them and I stay away from those sorts of discussions anyway, as what we shoot with is 100% personal. Hopefully we all use what we enjoy. Very few people will ever be able to look at an image and say what camera or lens it was shot with.
True, but the tell-tale slight focussing errors used to give the rangefinders away, especially when most people moved to SLRs. Photography today is generally technically better as a result of improved technology. Rangefinders are a thing of the past.

I find I personally shoot differently with a rangefinder out of necessity and will walk away with a different take on a scene than I might otherwise. Neither here-nor-there, and that doesn't mean that I couldn't shoot something similar with another standard camera (I can and do), it's just that I start from a different frame of reference. Sometimes I find that a good thing.
I just find them slower and less intuitive. The extra work and time involved detracts from gettng a good shot, for me. I don't want it to be about the cam; the less influence that has between me and the image I want, the better. Anything like AF or good metering, fine. A slower and less efficient and accurate focussing system? No thanks.

For what I tend to shoot - architecture, some street/travel and plenty of landscape, IBIS and Eye/Animal/etc AF are less critical for me. The systems I use for those are indeed very anachronistic (including the RF in there). When I do photograph birds or other animals on my dSLR, right now it's still holding its own but can definitely see the benefit of using (in my case) the Z system.
For 'street' (I hate that expression, it's lazy) and travel type stuff, surely speed is a bonus. Architecture and landscape, fair enough. But I want to be able to use a range of different lenses; I have from 14 to 200mm currently, have had a lot longer. RF is practically useless outside of the 28-70mm sort of range, especially for longer teles. But maybe it suits some better. I think you'd have a lot of fun with a Z cam. One thing I found I didn't know I needed until I had it, was the flip-out screen. Acts like a TLR would, but also allows more flexible shooting in terms of the angle and position you choose. Great for candids. Plus; silent shutter is an utter Godsend for such work (I'm not a fan of 'voyeuristic' shots though, as these can be very intrusive and violate someone's personal space), and in very quiet places such as some classical music concerts. The clack clack of a mechanical mirror is very distracting to performers, and I've had to stop shooting more than once. The Z6 is quite simply the best cam I've ever had. And I've had a few...
 

r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
2,210
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Denver, Colorado, USA
True, but the tell-tale slight focussing errors used to give the rangefinders away, especially when most people moved to SLRs. Photography today is generally technically better as a result of improved technology. Rangefinders are a thing of the past.


I just find them slower and less intuitive. The extra work and time involved detracts from gettng a good shot, for me. I don't want it to be about the cam; the less influence that has between me and the image I want, the better. Anything like AF or good metering, fine. A slower and less efficient and accurate focussing system? No thanks.


For 'street' (I hate that expression, it's lazy) and travel type stuff, surely speed is a bonus. Architecture and landscape, fair enough. But I want to be able to use a range of different lenses; I have from 14 to 200mm currently, have had a lot longer. RF is practically useless outside of the 28-70mm sort of range, especially for longer teles. But maybe it suits some better. I think you'd have a lot of fun with a Z cam. One thing I found I didn't know I needed until I had it, was the flip-out screen. Acts like a TLR would, but also allows more flexible shooting in terms of the angle and position you choose. Great for candids. Plus; silent shutter is an utter Godsend for such work (I'm not a fan of 'voyeuristic' shots though, as these can be very intrusive and violate someone's personal space), and in very quiet places such as some classical music concerts. The clack clack of a mechanical mirror is very distracting to performers, and I've had to stop shooting more than once. The Z6 is quite simply the best cam I've ever had. And I've had a few...
Yeah, I totally get your perspective. I'm glad you enjoy your z6 - they're awesome cameras, for sure.
 
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Abdichoudxyz

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Yeah, I totally get your perspective. I'm glad you enjoy your z6 - they're awesome cameras, for sure.
When I read about things like the Z8 and Z9, and the potential for the future, it's reassuring to think that the next cam I buy will be even more awesome!
 

Analog Kid

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Mar 4, 2003
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This is why I avoid photography forums... The "actual photography" versus "specs" debate and the attending attitude. Forgive me if I'm misreading your tone of voice, but I've been in enough "better specs don't make you a better photographer, now let me tell you how great my specs are because I'm good enough to deserve them" conversations.

If you read my post in the spirit it was written, you'd see that my point was (and remains) that while the mirrorless is advancing the state of the art, for actual photographers the DSLRs remain excellent cameras and are more affordable than ever.

The differences are very slight. Nothing that anyone interested in actual photography rather than cam specs would worry about.
Agreed. My point was that the sensors haven't gotten much better, so that shouldn't motivate the change if you're "interested in actual photography".

That said, the Z8/9 have lost a stop or more of dynamic range at some ISOs, particularly the low ISOs where dynamic range would be most coveted, which ain't nothing.

Likewise the same "is it real or is it datasheet drool" argument can be made here:
There have been significant improvements across the board with the new Z-mount lenses. All my new Z- lenses are sharper and deliver better IQ than their (already superb) F-mount equivalents.

Most of the high end F-mount lenses were essentially out-resolving a 25MP sensor such as the Z6 already. Yes the Z mount glass is sharper in most cases but if I were prone to engaging in the "actual photography" debate I'd likely make snide comments about pixel peeping...

The point in both cases is that better equipment takes better pictures, that's why we keep making equipment better. For Nikon Z, some of it is in the glass, but I still think what makes the difference is the features. The F-mount lenses were already fantastic-- so fantastic for the better ones in fact that anything less than perfect technique would degrade them. The Z-mount takes that a bit further, but I'd argue the reason we notice it is because the features (better autofocus, better VR, more focus points, instant phase detect, etc) go a long way toward compensating our less than perfect technique to show what the lens is actually capable of.

If you're well enough experienced with the SLR cameras and aren't spending a lot of time pushing the camera in ways that those features really help, then the "actual photograph" those SLR cameras produce will be indistinguishable from what the current line of mirrorless cameras produce. It's easy to get exited by new gear (I am), but I think at the moment we're just nudging past parity between mirrorless and SLR. SLR isn't going any further, mirrorless is the future, but right now they're still pretty close to each other with tradeoffs that break each way.


I'm not sure aobut weight and size savings though; Nikon have mostly gone with optimum lens design over size and weight considerations, so things like the WA and standard primes are actually larger. My new 105mm macro is significantly larger than myF-mount version.

In general, I think you're right that they've chosen not to compromise image for weight or size (leaving aside the tiny primes), but they did manage to achieve both in some impressive ways:

The Z 24-70 2.8 is 265g (25%) lighter and more than an inch shorter (20%)
The Z 14-24 2.8 is 350g (35%) lighter and a touch shorter
The Z 105 is 90g lighter (but longer)
The Z 100-400 is 135g lighter (also longer) than the 80-400 it replaced.

If you used to carry the two fast zooms in your f-mount bag, you can move to z-mount and include the 105 Micro with no extra weight. That's a win in my book.
 

Abdichoudxyz

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May 16, 2023
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If you read my post in the spirit it was written, you'd see that my point was (and remains) that while the mirrorless is advancing the state of the art, for actual photographers the DSLRs remain excellent cameras and are more affordable than ever.
I'm not disputing that.

That said, the Z8/9 have lost a stop or more of dynamic range at some ISOs, particularly the low ISOs where dynamic range would be most coveted, which ain't nothing.
I haven't used either side by side to compare myself, but many of the videos I've seen don't show evidence of this. if anything, the Z8 looks to be a very very tiny bit better. But it's inconclusive. The consensus (amongst people who've actually tested them side by side) is that there is negligible difference. If you want to continue arguing this then that's up to you; I'm really not interested.

Most of the high end F-mount lenses were essentially out-resolving a 25MP sensor such as the Z6 already. Yes the Z mount glass is sharper in most cases but if I were prone to engaging in the "actual photography" debate I'd likely make snide comments about pixel peeping...
It's not just the sharpness. I've seen improvements in colour accuracy, smoothness of OOF areas and highlights, and just an overall improvement in IQ. And yes; I've tested equivalent lenses side by side. Such things might not matter to you, but they do to me and others.

I'm not all that interested in spec sheets or ratings given by commercial websites to things; I'm interested in equipment which will help improve my photography. This thread is about the OP asking if ML will take over from DSLRs. I'm offering advice based on my own experience. Which is that new ML cams like the Nikon Z6, offer several benefits over DSLRs. Some of those things are dependant on the camera bodies, and others are in things like lens quality.

If people are on a limited budget, or already have perfectly good camera equipment, there is little reason to change. DSLRs like the D850, D5/6 and D750 are as good as most people will ever need. Including myself. But if you're considering a new system, then ML will offer potential advantages both now and in the future. With Nikon, each new Z-mount version has outperformed its F-mount equivalent, pretty much. This to me is a major selling point.
 
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Abdichoudxyz

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It's nice to hear that after their late start Nikon is finally beginning to catch up with Sony and other mirrorless camera manufacturers.
I wouldn't really call it a 'late start'; Nikon and Canon bossed the DSLR market, and Sony had no real foothold in that game, definitely not at the 'professional' end of the market. But both Canon and Nikon realised that the future was in mirrorless tech, as it offered certain advantages. So they spent some time working on their cameras, to get them right. Had they not done so, and brought out flawed cams, then they would potentially have suffered catastrophically in that market, and damaged their reputations for years to come. The first Nikon offerings the Z7 and Z6, were a great succes and complimented their F-mount range, rather than completely cannibalising it. Both companies went with adapters to use old lenses; they pretty much had to really. But now the ranges are maturing, the competition is a lot healthier. As for the 'others'; Pentax have no MILCs, only DSLRs, Fuji only do APS-C and 'medium format', and the rest is mostly M4/3rds stuff. Panasonic made a bold step by bringing out FF MILCs, with a Leica-compatible mount, but Olympus seem to have missed the boat really. There's still something for everyone though, pretty much.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors G3
May 3, 2014
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Kentucky
I just hate how awful the results were in this photo, and I'm sure the biggest issue was how outdated everything I used was.

Nikon D3X(actually on loan to me-not my camera) with an AF 35-70 f/2.8D. The latter is a much-maligned lens, but I tested it quite a bit at one point against by 24-70 f/2.8G(which I no longer have-I sold that one when I bought the "E" version) and basically the only handicap I feel using it is that it doesn't go as wide.

This was a sequence of 6 photos, all lit using the Metz 45 CL-4 digital. It must be some fluke that all were perfectly exposed, and I was able to pick the best one based on expression.

I know, though, I should retire this old rig-every bit of it-since it's not up to the task today.

BTW, I adjusted white balance, straightened it, and applied distortion correction. The exposure and colors are as shot. I could maybe stand to pull the highlights a bit, but overall I'm super happy with how it turned out.

D3X_6310-2.jpg


As another side note, never use a borrowed camera that you haven't spent time setting up extensively to your own preferences when time counts. I use the single digit Nikons a lot, and there's a lot of commonality to how the D3 on forward operate, but there's also a lot of customization offered in the controls(as I expect of every high end camera from every maker now-certainly not a unique Nikon feature there). I have a D3s that I don't use often these days, but the D3X body feels familiar/comfortable in my hands. I made the stupid mistake(and I should know better now considering how many Nikon DSLRs I have) of not setting this one up to match my D3s and my other single digit bodies as much as possible.

I've been curious about the D3X, a seemingly forgotten camera, for a while now. Someone on Pnet contacted me and offered to let me borrow his for a few weeks and play with it if I would clean the sensor for him in exchange for a rental fee(and yes it needs it). As it transpired, the guy who sent this one to me bought another one while I have it(this was one of two of his) and I may either be keeping this one or buying one of his others from him...we'll see. I love its skin tone rendering.
 

mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
8,064
50,725
I just hate how awful the results were in this photo, and I'm sure the biggest issue was how outdated everything I used was.

Nikon D3X(actually on loan to me-not my camera) with an AF 35-70 f/2.8D. The latter is a much-maligned lens, but I tested it quite a bit at one point against by 24-70 f/2.8G(which I no longer have-I sold that one when I bought the "E" version) and basically the only handicap I feel using it is that it doesn't go as wide.

This was a sequence of 6 photos, all lit using the Metz 45 CL-4 digital. It must be some fluke that all were perfectly exposed, and I was able to pick the best one based on expression.

I know, though, I should retire this old rig-every bit of it-since it's not up to the task today.

BTW, I adjusted white balance, straightened it, and applied distortion correction. The exposure and colors are as shot. I could maybe stand to pull the highlights a bit, but overall I'm super happy with how it turned out.

View attachment 2324063

As another side note, never use a borrowed camera that you haven't spent time setting up extensively to your own preferences when time counts. I use the single digit Nikons a lot, and there's a lot of commonality to how the D3 on forward operate, but there's also a lot of customization offered in the controls(as I expect of every high end camera from every maker now-certainly not a unique Nikon feature there). I have a D3s that I don't use often these days, but the D3X body feels familiar/comfortable in my hands. I made the stupid mistake(and I should know better now considering how many Nikon DSLRs I have) of not setting this one up to match my D3s and my other single digit bodies as much as possible.

I've been curious about the D3X, a seemingly forgotten camera, for a while now. Someone on Pnet contacted me and offered to let me borrow his for a few weeks and play with it if I would clean the sensor for him in exchange for a rental fee(and yes it needs it). As it transpired, the guy who sent this one to me bought another one while I have it(this was one of two of his) and I may either be keeping this one or buying one of his others from him...we'll see. I love its skin tone rendering.
A good proof to the theorem that it isn't the gear, it's the person behind the gear.
 

Abdichoudxyz

Suspended
May 16, 2023
381
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I just hate how awful the results were in this photo, and I'm sure the biggest issue was how outdated everything I used was.
I'm not sure if you were angling for any creative criticism of the actual image, but to me, it looks as though the equipment is fine. Technically spot-on.

I know, though, I should retire this old rig-every bit of it-since it's not up to the task today.
Is that you being sarcastic?

As another side note, never use a borrowed camera that you haven't spent time setting up extensively to your own preferences when time counts. I use the single digit Nikons a lot, and there's a lot of commonality to how the D3 on forward operate, but there's also a lot of customization offered in the controls(as I expect of every high end camera from every maker now-certainly not a unique Nikon feature there). I have a D3s that I don't use often these days, but the D3X body feels familiar/comfortable in my hands. I made the stupid mistake(and I should know better now considering how many Nikon DSLRs I have) of not setting this one up to match my D3s and my other single digit bodies as much as possible.
The only things that should actually matter, are shutter speed and aperture, and getting the lens to focus properly. I never bother with the myriad extra features on offer from my cams; I even just set WB to 'Auto', and it never lets me down. Remember that the RAW file isn't an actual 'image', it's just data. So you can bash away and fix pretty much anything in post. I come from a film background, so there were more considerations; colour transparency film could present issues according to brand, type and speed. Fuji Velvia needed a warm-up filter for many subjects, particularly in shade. Some Kodak films weren't so great for landscapes etc with lots of green. And so on. There were little idiosyncrasies with various B+W films, and even more considerations when it came to processing. Digital, by comparison, is an absolute breeze. 'Too easy', almost.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors G3
May 3, 2014
8,352
6,495
Kentucky
Is that you being sarcastic?

Take it for what you will given the broader discussion and the equipment I used. BTW, the faces are bugging me-I need to pull highlights. Creative critique-no not really as the image is what it is and it's priceless to me even though I know it could have been better. I've only used the D3X a bit(but just agreed to buy one from the same guy this one belongs to-just not this specific camera) but I've loved just how it outputs.

The only things that should actually matter, are shutter speed and aperture, and getting the lens to focus properly. I never bother with the myriad extra features on offer from my cams; I even just set WB to 'Auto', and it never lets me down. Remember that the RAW file isn't an actual 'image', it's just data. So you can bash away and fix pretty much anything in post. I come from a film background, so there were more considerations; colour transparency film could present issues according to brand, type and speed. Fuji Velvia needed a warm-up filter for many subjects, particularly in shade. Some Kodak films weren't so great for landscapes etc with lots of green. And so on. There were little idiosyncrasies with various B+W films, and even more considerations when it came to processing. Digital, by comparison, is an absolute breeze. 'Too easy', almost.

I STILL shoot a lot of film including both transparencies and B&W, so understand very well getting it right in the camera. I even keep my "Moose Polarizers"(cir. polarizer+81A) in my bag when I'm shooting film, or if I'm shooting both with a modern-ish camera like an F6 or F100 I can make do with them on digital. I like them on Velvia, but find that they're a practical necessity on Kodak's current E100. Back in the day, I use to shoot E100GX in preference to E100G, but E100 is essentially E100G(if not exactly the same emulsion). Ektachrome tends really blue in the shadows, and I find an 81B or even 81C in bright daylight a practical necessity.

Yes, things in digital can be fixed, up to a point. At the same time, you can never exactly re-create data that's not there. Manufacturers have been pushing ISOs like crazy, and one of the more subtle ways they can coax a bit more performance out of a sensor is to weaken the Bayer array. And yes the RAW file is quite literally just the RAW data, but at the same time every RAW file I've ever handled has "mark ups" with it that indicate the in-camera settings and the inital rendering in most RAW processors takes those into account as a starting point.

There's a guy on DPReview(somewhere I've never really participated to a great extent, but enjoy a lot of the more technical discussion) who has posted a progression of photos of a crayon box taken with a Canon 1D, some of the most current mirrorless cameras, and everything in between. It's rather staggering to see that certain crayons that are most certainly different colors are rendered nearly the same on newer cameras, where they are cleary different on older ones. His series keeps the white balance and saturation consistent-maybe it could be teased out in post, but it's still surprising to see. I've done much the same test with a D1, D2X, D3s, D5, and a couple of other Nikon DSLRs and find that I can differentiate colors in the crayon box easily even with newer cameras where he shows the Canons falling short, but still it was a bit eye-opening for me. It also helps explain why some cameras just naturally give different color rendition than others, and aside from in-camera processing it also is part of the reason why, just for example, the same basic 45mp sensor that both Sony and Nikon use differs in noise, DR, and more subtly but perhaps most importantly, color rendition between the two cameras. Someone who knows the "look" they want and has mastered the post-processing for both files can make magic happen with both, but the end result may still not be the same. I know my final result from my X-T5 and any of my Nikons is going to be different, although if I do my part I'm still happy with both.

At the end of the day too, I'm not someone who HATES editing, but I can't describe how happy it makes me when I pull a few hundred photos into Lightroom and nearly all of them need minimal attention to color, saturation, levels, curves, etc. I rarely touch these adjustments on files from my D4 or D5(or Df by extension) unless I've intentionally underexposed to hold highlights. If I'm doing that, the D4, Df, or one of the D8xx cameras are far better choices. It's rare that I don't import a D850 file that I don't need to adjust at least the levels and curves. As long as conditions are similar across a series of photos, I can often make one batch adjustment and get close, but every one still ends up needing individual attention. After using all three of the D8xx cameras(and each one in the series was my main camera for a couple of years at least) and still using both the D800 and D810 somewhat regularly, I feel like this has gotten worse with each successive one. It's been one reason why I've been reluctant to sell my D800.

To the camera controls-to me focus and light are everything. Composition of course is important, but I can crop if I shoot wide and even change perspective to some extent. Light of course is a whole other discussion(which is why I love being able to create my own with flash, particularly off-camera) but even that can be tweaked to some extent. There are AI tools now that can try to recover blur, but if it's out of focus to me it's usually a straight delete.

To that point too, my D4, D5, and D850(my most used cameras these days for non-static situations) are almost always set to back button focus, continuous AF, and 3D tracking. 3D tracking on the D3 cameras isn't as good as on newer ones, but it still works and I don't have much trouble adapting. I can work with pretty much any focus mode, but the big thing is that in a situation-like above-where the photo isn't posed, I have one chance to get it right. If I'm expecting AF to behave a certain way, and it doesn't when it counts, I can lose the shot. Fortunately I was able to make it work above.
 
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