Is that you being sarcastic?
Take it for what you will given the broader discussion and the equipment I used. BTW, the faces are bugging me-I need to pull highlights. Creative critique-no not really as the image is what it is and it's priceless to me even though I know it could have been better. I've only used the D3X a bit(but just agreed to buy one from the same guy this one belongs to-just not this specific camera) but I've loved just how it outputs.
The only things that should actually matter, are shutter speed and aperture, and getting the lens to focus properly. I never bother with the myriad extra features on offer from my cams; I even just set WB to 'Auto', and it never lets me down. Remember that the RAW file isn't an actual 'image', it's just data. So you can bash away and fix pretty much anything in post. I come from a film background, so there were more considerations; colour transparency film could present issues according to brand, type and speed. Fuji Velvia needed a warm-up filter for many subjects, particularly in shade. Some Kodak films weren't so great for landscapes etc with lots of green. And so on. There were little idiosyncrasies with various B+W films, and even more considerations when it came to processing. Digital, by comparison, is an absolute breeze. 'Too easy', almost.
I STILL shoot a lot of film including both transparencies and B&W, so understand very well getting it right in the camera. I even keep my "Moose Polarizers"(cir. polarizer+81A) in my bag when I'm shooting film, or if I'm shooting both with a modern-ish camera like an F6 or F100 I can make do with them on digital. I like them on Velvia, but find that they're a practical necessity on Kodak's current E100. Back in the day, I use to shoot E100GX in preference to E100G, but E100 is essentially E100G(if not exactly the same emulsion). Ektachrome tends really blue in the shadows, and I find an 81B or even 81C in bright daylight a practical necessity.
Yes, things in digital can be fixed, up to a point. At the same time, you can never exactly re-create data that's not there. Manufacturers have been pushing ISOs like crazy, and one of the more subtle ways they can coax a bit more performance out of a sensor is to weaken the Bayer array. And yes the RAW file is quite literally just the RAW data, but at the same time every RAW file I've ever handled has "mark ups" with it that indicate the in-camera settings and the inital rendering in most RAW processors takes those into account as a starting point.
There's a guy on DPReview(somewhere I've never really participated to a great extent, but enjoy a lot of the more technical discussion) who has posted a progression of photos of a crayon box taken with a Canon 1D, some of the most current mirrorless cameras, and everything in between. It's rather staggering to see that certain crayons that are most certainly different colors are rendered nearly the same on newer cameras, where they are cleary different on older ones. His series keeps the white balance and saturation consistent-maybe it could be teased out in post, but it's still surprising to see. I've done much the same test with a D1, D2X, D3s, D5, and a couple of other Nikon DSLRs and find that I can differentiate colors in the crayon box easily even with newer cameras where he shows the Canons falling short, but still it was a bit eye-opening for me. It also helps explain why some cameras just naturally give different color rendition than others, and aside from in-camera processing it also is part of the reason why, just for example, the same basic 45mp sensor that both Sony and Nikon use differs in noise, DR, and more subtly but perhaps most importantly, color rendition between the two cameras. Someone who knows the "look" they want and has mastered the post-processing for both files can make magic happen with both, but the end result may still not be the same. I know my final result from my X-T5 and any of my Nikons is going to be different, although if I do my part I'm still happy with both.
At the end of the day too, I'm not someone who HATES editing, but I can't describe how happy it makes me when I pull a few hundred photos into Lightroom and nearly all of them need minimal attention to color, saturation, levels, curves, etc. I rarely touch these adjustments on files from my D4 or D5(or Df by extension) unless I've intentionally underexposed to hold highlights. If I'm doing that, the D4, Df, or one of the D8xx cameras are far better choices. It's rare that I don't import a D850 file that I don't need to adjust at least the levels and curves. As long as conditions are similar across a series of photos, I can often make one batch adjustment and get close, but every one still ends up needing individual attention. After using all three of the D8xx cameras(and each one in the series was my main camera for a couple of years at least) and still using both the D800 and D810 somewhat regularly, I feel like this has gotten worse with each successive one. It's been one reason why I've been reluctant to sell my D800.
To the camera controls-to me focus and light are everything. Composition of course is important, but I can crop if I shoot wide and even change perspective to some extent. Light of course is a whole other discussion(which is why I love being able to create my own with flash, particularly off-camera) but even that can be tweaked to some extent. There are AI tools now that can try to recover blur, but if it's out of focus to me it's usually a straight delete.
To that point too, my D4, D5, and D850(my most used cameras these days for non-static situations) are almost always set to back button focus, continuous AF, and 3D tracking. 3D tracking on the D3 cameras isn't as good as on newer ones, but it still works and I don't have much trouble adapting. I can work with pretty much any focus mode, but the big thing is that in a situation-like above-where the photo isn't posed, I have one chance to get it right. If I'm expecting AF to behave a certain way, and it doesn't when it counts, I can lose the shot. Fortunately I was able to make it work above.