Oh look! You have an open spot for your future JLC!My collection:
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Thinking of upgrading from the two tone to solid gold at some point.
Oh look! You have an open spot for your future JLC!My collection:
View attachment 931096
Thinking of upgrading from the two tone to solid gold at some point.
Two questions from a non-expert: How do you measure these gains/losses? Why do all your watches gain time except one which loses?
It's funny, because he hasn't actually successfully refuted anything I have said. Seiko has a solid entry in literally every level of watchmaking from the $100 quartz diver to the Grand Seiko Snowflake. No one else does that.
Nice set of Rolexes.My collection:
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Thinking of upgrading from the two tone to solid gold at some point.
My collection:
View attachment 931096
Thinking of upgrading from the two tone to solid gold at some point.
Nice set of Rolexes.
But my favourite is the green Sea-Gull (?) at the top right.
Got a close-up of it?
Very nice collection, and thanks for sharing.
I quite like the Ulysse Nardin.
I use WatchTracker app for iOS to compare the time I that see on the dial to the atomic time that the app gets over the internet. I tap the screen when the watch has the same time as one pre-selected on the screen, then the app compares my result with the atomic clock. It keeps data points that can be exported if desired. It puts the gains or losses into a nice graph for you.
Swiss Chronometer standards or COSC wants watches to stay within -2 sec/day to +6 sec/day on average for the day, and that is with a certain amount of spread between slowest and fastest rate between all 6 positions (or 5 positions). It could still run -4 sec/day in a certain position but +8 sec/day in another position, as long as they average out to be within that spec, which in this case might end up being +4 sec/day. They could equal each other out, so that the watch gains 0 sec/day. With the spread from slowest to fastest, for instance, there should not be more than a 12-16 second spread in rates between positions (depending on whether full wind or not) from slowest rate in one position like dial up, and the fastest rate seen with it in another position, such as crown right.
Seiko with some models, like Seiko 5 and SKX models, will specify as much as +/- 20 or 30 sec/day as being okay, while with other models they try to keep them closer to atomic time. All of my Seiko Turtle watches are running within a few seconds a day (single digits).
But Omega and Rolex have the METAS standard or Superlative Chronometer Standard which exceed COSC standards, to be even more accurate. Rolex tries to keep watches between -2 to +2 sec/day. Omega used to be okay with -1 to +6 sec/day, but but now shoots for +0 to +5 sec/day except for the Moonwatch which is an older design and can be okay anywhere between -11 to +11 sec/day.
When I have a watch serviced I ask my watchmaker to run the watch on his Orbita winder for a couple of days and adjust it to get the watch to be closer to +1 to +2 sec/day of possible. If they gain time then I'm never behind and not late fo r things. But, I'd rather lose 2 sec/day than gain 6 sec/day. That's the difference between 1 minute off a month and 3 minutes off.
My Rolex Pepsi GMT II runs anywhere from -1.4 sec/day to +1.2 sec/day on average when checking the timekeeping about 2x a day, but on average in a 16 day period it gained only 1.5 seconds (3 sec/month). Click pics to enlarge.
When I set the watch I used a digital clock with no second hand, so I was 29 seconds fast, but it never dropped below 28 seconds fast to 30.5 seconds fast, only wandering around up and down about 1.5 seconds that whole time.
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I get that. For me, there are places Apple Watch just doesn't work. For example, I wouldn't wear an Apple Watch at any event that is more than business casual.Ooooh, I have a whole drawer full of mechanical watches I seemingly never wear enough that I would be interested in discussing. The Apple Watch has primarily taken that role. I would never part with my mechanical watches simply because of how much I actually enjoy wearing them for different occasions.
[Also, there is a thread in the Apple Watch forum that has mechanical watch comparisons as well, coupled with Apple Watch pics, some decent photos from regular members.]
I get that. For me, there are places Apple Watch just doesn't work. For example, I wouldn't wear an Apple Watch at any event that is more than business casual.
Of course, I wear my Seamaster pretty much every day these days.
Looks like Rolex is going to release a 2020 watch after all. Maybe a new sub?
Rolex Will Be Releasing Its First Watches of 2020 in September
Rolex has quietly announced that will be debuting some new releases for 2020 on its website in September.robbreport.com
Rolex on eBay is crazy.
I agree on the Panerai. They're like the Porsche of watches. I want to not like them but they are gorgeous.
There is an eBay authenticity program but I only use chrono24 and Find the best verified dealer priceWouldn't trust eBay for serious watches; instead, I'd recommend that you (or anyone) buy from a reputable (and authorised) dealer.
Many will have, or stock, previously owned watches for sale, (they might have been trade ins, or part exchanges, for example), and the provenance will be guaranteed.
Personally, Panerai don't really do it, for me; they are too large, for one thing, although I fully accept that massive watches are the current fashion.
Rolex on eBay is crazy.
I agree on the Panerai. They're like the Porsche of watches. I want to not like them but they are gorgeous.
That's definitely true. I find myself absolutely loving my Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical because of how unobtrusive it is. My Seamaster is as bulky as I would ever use and one of the reason a Planet Ocean is not in my futureI’ve never really liked Panerai either I must be honest. They are also way too big for my wrists. I prefer watches with less bulk.
That's definitely true. I find myself absolutely loving my Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical because of how unobtrusive it is. My Seamaster is as bulky as I would ever use and one of the reason a Planet Ocean is not in my future
Wow. Spectacular piece. Congratsadded to my submariner date. was going for a 50th anniversary sea-dweller but they are too tall for my taste
I heard every watch guy should have a G-Shock, and I couldn’t pass up this particular limited edition GA-2000.
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Whatever the brand, mineral glass is something I think I would avoid if sapphire is available. Overall, it's fine, but I would pay the extra money to get the sapphire crystal.I'm lazy for scrolling threw the whole thread but what do you think about Hardlex glass? Some Seiko watches are sweet (and not pricy) but I'm afraid of scratching.
I like to purchase a watch inside-out. I.e First by checking out if the movement is well-proven, then if the case, the watch face and the watch in general looks pleasing, subject to my butget I'll buy it - regardless of whether it has mineral glass or not.Whatever the brand, mineral glass is something I think I would avoid if sapphire is available. Overall, it's fine, but I would pay the extra money to get the sapphire crystal.
But you see a ton of vintage Speedmasters with the mineral crystal scratched to hell. I don't currently own a Speedmaster but I'll get the Sapphire sandwich.