The HP cards need to be flashed in advance because they have no vBIOS loaded onto the card! The HP laptop contains and manages the vBIOS on the internal laptop firmware for security reasons (unlike Dell laptops, where the Dell vBIOS is stored onto the card in any case).
This is the reason why you can have the impression to have a non working (HP) card and why should flash it using a clip programmer. Unfortunately this will not work with cards having WSON type BIOS chips (not usable with a clip). And it is the reason why you can have a (Dell) card installed into your iMac offering a screen from the very beginning.
This has been cited many times and it is part of the FAQ (Q2). So there is a difference between having a non booting system and a system booting but not recognising a GPU installed.
I found a K2100M from HP for upgrading an iMac11,2. Maybe someone is able to detect if this HP K2100M card is only flashable with a clip (like its written in Q2) or also via the USB Linux Method with NVFlash.
With Xeon E3 1280 the results were definitely better. Not that much on overall score but a lot better on average fps during the benchmarks and gaming session. Almost 7-10 more stable fps. I can't wait to try the wx7100 when it arrives.
I am posting using the translation function.
There may be discrepancies.
I have an iMac 12.1 and came to this forum wanting to upgrade my OS.
However, it didn't work and I'm posting here to hear the solution.
〈What I have done〉
1. GPU was replaced with Quadro k2100m. I also rewrote the BIOS according to the first post.
2. I created installation media for Big Sur 11.7.7 using OCLP0.5.0.
3. Installed OCLP on the EFI partition of the installation media.
4. Started installing BigSur from the installation media.
5. After rebooting several times, the power goes off during installation or it freezes during installation and the OS installation is not completed.
6. I tried changing OCLP to 0.3.3, but the result was the same.
These were the same for Monterey 12.6.
I haven't changed any settings in OCLP.
There are two storages, and I tried installing on SSD.
1-HDD (with HS installed)
2-SSD
I've upgraded a 2011 iMac to a k1100m running 10.15.7, everything seem to be working well except for the fans. Both the CPU and ODD fans spin at 3,000 RPM. Did I forget a sensor wire or do you naturally lose system management fan control when you upgrade? Is there any fix beyond using a fan control application?
I've upgraded a 2011 iMac to a k1100m running 10.15.7, everything seem to be working well except for the fans. Both the CPU and ODD fans spin at 3,000 RPM. Did I forget a sensor wire or do you naturally lose system management fan control when you upgrade? Is there any fix beyond using a fan control application?
I previously replaced the HDD with an SSD and used the Y splitter method to avoid the sensor issue. I did an Apple Hardware Test and got the error code: 4SNS/1/C0000008:TA0P--124 It seems I missed the ambient temp sensor wire.
I previously replaced the HDD with an SSD and used the Y splitter method to avoid the sensor issue. I did an Apple Hardware Test and got the error code: 4SNS/1/C0000008:TA0P--124 It seems I missed the ambient temp sensor wire.
Welp, I took it back apart and the ambient temp sensor was indeed plugged in, I measured it with a multimeter at 624 Ohms which is the same reading I got when I measured the ODD temp sensor. If anyone has any ideas what it could be? (It does read 0° on HWMonitor so maybe it is bad)
Welp, I took it back apart and the ambient temp sensor was indeed plugged in, I measured it with a multimeter at 624 Ohms which is the same reading I got when I measured the ODD temp sensor. If anyone has any ideas what it could be? (It does read 0° on HWMonitor so maybe it is bad)
Yeah prices are crazy high here for such things in Germany, plus for some reason there is only a handful of MXM M6100 GPUs. I got the card now, it‘s currently getting the bracket removed at a shop (i have tried removing things with heat, always broke something), because the one attached to the card has too small screw holes. The shop is going to assemble everything together, in the meantime i have already cleaned out the iMac, also replaced the i5 for an i7.
I will give an update when i have assembled the Mac.
Edit: It was 50€, took a 40km drive to pick up the GPU😅
I am posting using the translation function.
There may be discrepancies.
I have an iMac 12.1 and came to this forum wanting to upgrade my OS.
However, it didn't work and I'm posting here to hear the solution.
〈What I have done〉
1. GPU was replaced with Quadro k2100m. I also rewrote the BIOS according to the first post.
2. I created installation media for Big Sur 11.7.7 using OCLP0.5.0.
3. Installed OCLP on the EFI partition of the installation media.
4. Started installing BigSur from the installation media.
5. After rebooting several times, the power goes off during installation or it freezes during installation and the OS installation is not completed.
6. I tried changing OCLP to 0.3.3, but the result was the same.
These were the same for Monterey 12.6.
I haven't changed any settings in OCLP.
There are two storages, and I tried installing on SSD.
1-HDD (with HS installed)
2-SSD
Yeah prices are crazy high here for such things in Germany, plus for some reason there is only a handful of MXM M6100 GPUs. I got the card now, it‘s currently getting the bracket removed at a shop (i have tried removing things with heat, always broke something), because the one attached to the card has too small screw holes. The shop is going to assemble everything together, in the meantime i have already cleaned out the iMac, also replaced the i5 for an i7.
I will give an update when i have assembled the Mac.
Edit: It was 50€, took a 40km drive to pick up the GPU😅
Wow, I hope the shop won't charge you a lot for such a simple job.
My first 2 MXM cards I also brought to a mobile phone repair shop to remove the X-clamp bracket.
The first time he charged me 20k VND (~1EUR), the second time (1 year later) he charged me 50k VND (2EUR). And it was a 30 second job of pointing his heat gun over the X-clamp bracket, then pried it out with a flathead screwdriver.
The third time, I decided to do it myself.
With no heat gun, I used a pointed tip to poke at the X-clamp bracket from the opposite side. It took a while as I had to adjust the force, but it came off eventually.
Wow, I hope the shop won't charge you a lot for such a simple job.
My first 2 MXM cards I also brought to a mobile phone repair shop to remove the X-clamp bracket.
The first time he charged me 20k VND (~1EUR), the second time (1 year later) he charged me 50k VND (2EUR). And it was a 30 second job of pointing his heat gun over the X-clamp bracket, then pried it out with a flathead screwdriver.
The third time, I decided to do it myself.
With no heat gun, I used a pointed tip to poke at the X-clamp bracket from the opposite side. It took a while as I had to adjust the force, but it came off eventually.
(... and some Dell WX4130/WX4150 - just the 'additional mod' for V1.0 cards with 'DUFC' temperature sensor IC.)
I'd like to report another successful POST of a modded HP WX4150 card in an iMac12,2 (27' 2011 iMac). I now have two modded HP WX4150 cards happily running in two 27' 2011 machines, reported temperatures are sensible (ie. they are no different from those reported by a machine with a Dell WX4150 built in). I also ran some GPU benchmarks - I did not notice any anomalies after 30 minutes of benchmarking.
On the other hand, while the card did POST without a problem in an iMac11,2 (21.5' 2010 iMac), some sensors reported abnormal values, CPU and ODD fans ran at full speed, and I believe that CPU was throttled. (That's still better than iMac11,2 with an unmodded HP WX4150 card - sometimes it POSTs, sometimes it doesn't, definitely does not POST with a HDD connected.) I replaced it with a Dell WX4150 (from my 27' 2011 machine), which works perfectly. I'm not sure (when) I'll investigate this (iMac11,2 + modded HP WX4150) further.I (actually some of us) did investigate this further. With an additional small mod, the HP WX4150 POSTs and works properly in the whole iMac11,1 - iMac12,2 range! See additional mod below.
If your soldering skills are above basic and you have the tools required, please do try this. (Note: the additional mod requires fine soldering skills.) Here's how I did it:
a (at least) 50W soldering iron with precision tip and temperature control (80W+ is better, 50W should be enough for leaded solder)
flux (pen)
solder wick (to remove excess solder)
tweezers
magnifying glass (I did not use it, but I should.)
a (non-POSTing) HP WX4150 card
two 0R 1206 resistors (Buy more. They are really cheap and you will probably destroy one...)
0.5mm (or thinner) solder wire
Two jumpers (the 0R 1206 resistors) are needed between the pads in the orange rectangles under the red arrows (see first four attached photos). Those pads had some excess solder on my cards. I removed it with a solder wick to facilitate soldering later. Note that those pads are a part of a (relatively) large copper area, which means that a fair amount of heat will be required to melt the solder. Be very careful not to remove tiny capacitors and other components which are in close proximity. Cover cleared pads with a generous amount of flux. Place the resistor and align it with tweezers. Take your time. Use tweezers (in your left hand) to press down on the middle of the resistor (if it moves, align it again), then pick a small amount of solder with the soldering iron (in your right hand) and solder one pad of the resistor. Remember the 'large copper area'? A certain amount of heat will be required again. (This is really important to avoid cold joints. Believe me...) Again: Be careful not to short the nearby components. If you do, remove the shorts with the solder wick. Repeat for the second pad and second resistor. (Add flux as needed, you can remove excess flux when finished with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol.)
This additional mod requires fine soldering skills (or rather a visit to a cell phone repair shop). It is, however, mandatory to make the card POST and function properly in 21.5' iMacs (iMac11,2 and iMac12,1). On the bottom layer, lower left corner, close to the IC with DUFC top marking, there are two 0402-sized 0R resistors (jumpers) - (again) in orange rectangles. These need to be removed. See last two photos.
I attached some photos of my card before and after the mod.
Hi there, my name is Stephen Mannheim and I want to install a preflashed AMD Radeon Pro WX 4150 the Dell (green version). I have a mid 2010 27 inch 11.3 iMac. It is running Opencore Legacy patcher 0.6.7 and Ventura 13.4. My question is would I need to remove or add any resistors for my card? I have not bought it yet.
Hi there, my name is Stephen Mannheim and I want to install a preflashed AMD Radeon Pro WX 4150 the Dell (green version). I have a mid 2010 27 inch 11.3 iMac. It is running Opencore Legacy patcher 0.6.7 and Ventura 13.4. My question is would I need to remove or add any resistors for my card? I have not bought it yet.
I have the HP WX4150 blue card running inside my iMac 11,3. It doesn't require any modding on the board.
The Dell WX4150 would not require any modding, either.
To prepare for swapping your current GPU to WX4150, you might need to make some adjustment on the OCLP configuration to make it compatible with WX4150 before turning off the machine to assemble WX4150.
I have the HP WX4150 blue card running inside my iMac 11,3. It doesn't require any modding on the board.
The Dell WX4150 would not require any modding, either.
To prepare for swapping your current GPU to WX4150, you might need to make some adjustment on the OCLP configuration to make it compatible with WX4150 before turning off the machine to assemble WX4150.
What adjustments would I need to make to Opencore? Because how I understand it Opencore can only automatically patch the AMD WX4150 card once installed.
What adjustments would I need to make to Opencore? Because how I understand it Opencore can only automatically patch the AMD WX4150 card once installed.
You will have to run OCLP in manual mode, if it is available.
And make adjustment from the manual setting menu.
I don't use the newer GUI OCLP, so I don't know how it works in GUI OCLP.
Previous versions of OCLP can be run in TUI mode and made adjustment manually.
Manual setting of OCLP can even enable you to create EFI volume for a different Mac model (like create Opencore EFI for a Mac Pro 5,1 on an iMac 11,3 etc.).
Please study the OCLP guideline for this part. For my case, I just fiddled with the OCLP text based menu for a while and figure it out.
And to make further adjustments of the config.plist like adjusting the display time of Opencore menu, or make some adjustment to enable brightness control on some specific graphic cards, you will need to use a 3rd party app like text editor or OpenCore Configurator.
You will have to run OCLP in manual mode, if it is available.
And make adjustment from the manual setting menu.
I don't use the newer GUI OCLP, so I don't know how it works in GUI OCLP.
Previous versions of OCLP can be run in TUI mode and made adjustment manually.
Manual setting of OCLP can even enable you to create EFI volume for a different Mac model (like create Opencore EFI for a Mac Pro 5,1 on an iMac 11,3 etc.).
Please study the OCLP guideline for this part. For my case, I just fiddled with the OCLP text based menu for a while and figure it out.
And to make further adjustments of the config.plist like adjusting the display time of Opencore menu, or make some adjustment to enable brightness control on some specific graphic cards, you will need to use a 3rd party app like text editor or OpenCore Configurator.
All Hello!
I have iMac (27-inch, Mid 2011) Model A1312 / iMac12,2
- 3,1 GHz Intel Core i5
- 16 Gb 1333 MHz DDR3
- AMD Radeon HD 6970M 1024 МБ
- SSD 500 Gb, SATA
- High Sierra
Yeah prices are crazy high here for such things in Germany, plus for some reason there is only a handful of MXM M6100 GPUs. I got the card now, it‘s currently getting the bracket removed at a shop (i have tried removing things with heat, always broke something), because the one attached to the card has too small screw holes. The shop is going to assemble everything together, in the meantime i have already cleaned out the iMac, also replaced the i5 for an i7.
I will give an update when i have assembled the Mac.
Edit: It was 50€, took a 40km drive to pick up the GPU😅
i got my GPU back, pretty nice lad who did the job, he even showed pictures of the whole process.
The GPU cooler required dremeling, i don‘t know if it was necessary for the M6100.
I went on to install the GPU into the iMac so i can reset the PRAM/SMC and begin the flashing process, but now the iMac won’t even turn on. The PSU is making noise but none of the fans spin.
I also want to mention that i the display is not installed, because i still need to install the SSD.
Anyone here had a similar problem? If so, how did you fix it?
i got my GPU back, pretty nice lad who did the job, he even showed pictures of the whole process.
The GPU cooler required dremeling, i don‘t know if it was necessary for the M6100.
I went on to install the GPU into the iMac so i can reset the PRAM/SMC and begin the flashing process, but now the iMac won’t even turn on. The PSU is making noise but none of the fans spin.
I also want to mention that i the display is not installed, because i still need to install the SSD.
Anyone here had a similar problem? If so, how did you fix it?
I got the same issue, several times on my iMac 2010 27" and HP WX4150.
I solved it by applying Kapton tape (yellowish clear tape with insulation characteristic) on the heatsink where I suspect there is a short circuit.
It helped solve the issue with my setup.
I suggest you do all the below when you reassemble the card.
- Clean-up the MXM socket on the logicboard.
- Check thoroughly for any gaps between the card and the heatsink, check whether the card is bent (redo dremel job on the heatsink)
I got the same issue, several times on my iMac 2010 27" and HP WX4150.
I solved it by applying Kapton tape (yellowish clear tape with insulation characteristic) on the heatsink where I suspect there is a short circuit.
It helped solve the issue with my setup.
I suggest you do all the below when you reassemble the card.
- Clean-up the MXM socket on the logicboard.
- Check thoroughly for any gaps between the card and the heatsink, check whether the card is bent (redo dremel job on the heatsink)
i know that the card is not bent, because i tried to look for any damage on the card itself.
What i have also done is, i bought a cleaning „spray“ (basically air in a can) for electronics and went over the mainboard, so i think that some dust could have reached the MXM port, i will take it apart again tomorrow and try to clean that out.
i know that the card is not bent, because i tried to look for any damage on the card itself.
What i have also done is, i bought a cleaning „spray“ (basically air in a can) for electronics and went over the mainboard, so i think that some dust could have reached the MXM port, i will take it apart again tomorrow and try to clean that out.
In my case I used the very primitive method of cotton Q-tip and alcohol. The first Q-tip came out blacken, second and third one were less dirty. I had to flatten the Q-tip head with my pliers so that it can fit the MXM slot.
